BATTERY PROBLEMS
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Category: RSV / RSVR / FACTORY
Forum Name: FAQ
Forum Description: Technical and usage issues frequently asked by posters. Please feel free to add anything you feel relevant to The V-twin model range.
URL: http://www.rsvr.net/forum_posts.asp?TID=996
Printed Date: 27 Mar 2026 at 00:21
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Topic: BATTERY PROBLEMS
Posted By: jay g
Subject: BATTERY PROBLEMS
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2006 at 17:24
| Many Aprilia owners suffer with the dreaded battery problem.We have all read different threads about duff battery's,charging problems,starting problems etc..etc.My battery seems to be crap too.Why dont we get our heads together,to finally bury this bloody problem, once and for-all!..........what is the best battery to get?,what rate should the engine charge the battery?why does it discarge in the first place? you know what i mean.Lets get a list of problems together, and then all agree on a final cure.Lets face it,there is a problem and if we put our heads together,we can cure it.[:D] |
Replies:
Posted By: daveC
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2006 at 18:26
| I'd be interested to hear this also. I ended up going to Hein Gericke and buying one of those battery optimizers for £22. Bike is plugged into it all the time whilst in the garage now. [:(] |
Posted By: TarmacScratcher
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2006 at 20:01
| Hi ref my post on battery probs, I have just ordered a gel filled 12volt 14amp battery (your standard is a 12volt 12amp wet battery) 14amp gel gives the higher cranking power, also gel ones are supposed to lose less power when standing with alarm on, ive read posts on here of owners leaving bikes for 1 or 2 months with the 14amp upgraded batt and starting first time and they dont leak hence track use so hopefully that sorts it. p.s. batt was £55 from apex leisure online £79 in a normal shop if your interested. all the best Mark B |
Posted By: dannyboy
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2006 at 20:28
| it's not necessarily a problem that is acute to aprilias. any bike that is left for a while will drain the battery. it's just that it's more noticable on a "v twin" where you need a higher cranking voltage to shift those 2x500 cc buckets over fast enough to start, compared with 4x250 cc pistons of a 4 cylinder bike. the cold weather at this time of year doesn't help the situation either. the reason that most bike batteries drain is because of the immobiliser and the alarm, so you have 2 choices; 1, don't activate the alarm when you park your bike up at home. this will pro-long the battery life but will probably end with your bike going for a walk so i wouldn't recommend this choice. 2, buy a battery optimiser or trickle charger and plug it in when ever at home. the standard battery for a rsv is a YTX12BS this has a 12 ampere rating, but you can also fit a YTX14BS this has a higher ampere rating of 14 a gives a higher cranking speed. pab sells both types on this site or you could look on ebay which always turns up a bargin i have just bought a YTX14BS brand new for £26 including carriage. hope this answers some of your questions.[;)] |
Posted By: david
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2006 at 15:04
| The 14 amp battery and the trickle charger seems to be the best route. Dannyboy, can you let me know where you got that great deal from on your 14 amp battery? Cheers Dave |
Posted By: dannyboy
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2006 at 16:12
| i got the battery from ebay. the ebay shop is called ONLINEOFFROAD. just enter this into the search window in the ebay shop site. alternatively you could just do an ebay search for a YTX14BS battery and see what you can find.[;)] |
Posted By: jay g
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2006 at 20:57
| Looking in the Aprilia maintenance book with my bike.It says that the battery will discharge if un-used for more than twenty days,due to the consumtion of the multifunction computer.It says to disconnect the 30a fuses,to keep a charge.Also it says that if the bike is unused for more than 15 days,to re-charge the battery,to prevent its sulphation.[xx(]It seems that the battery is given a hard time even with-out an alarm or immobilizer.A gel battery sounds good with the higher amps,but i wonder if there is a way of turning off the diagnostic computer by fitting a switch instead of pulling fuses every time.How many of you do pull the fuses?...Also if you do run an alarm and immob.How much power is being sucked out of the battery,with the diagnostic computer draining it too.More than a trickle charger can supplement? i dont know.History of dead battery's down to sulphation,and not being able to hold a charge for long, maybe caused by these things.Again i dont know, maybe someone does[:)] |
Posted By: dannyboy
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2006 at 22:01
| i don't remove the 30 amp fuse when the bike is in the shed unless i'm charging the battery, but only because i was taught to charge a battery only when it is disconnected from the electrical system, when i was an apprentice. the fuses are located under the seat behind the battery there are 2 next to each other, one is a spare and not used the other is for the dash instrument (diagnostic computer). this is not recommended but with the ignition on pull each fuse individually, the dash will go out when you pull one of them. always make sure the ignition is switched off before refitting the fuses.the big down side to doing this is that you will have to reset your dash back to mph and set your rev lights as taking out this fuse is like disconnecting the battery and puts the dash into default mode. if you fitted a switch it would just be something else to go wrong so i wouldn't bother. as for sulphation i wouldn't be too concerned, i bet you don't worry about the state of your car battery if you don,t use your car for 2 or 3 weeks during the summer when you go on holiday i know i don't. hope this helps.[;)] |
Posted By: Lateshift
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2006 at 22:05
| Not sure about the Aprilia manual, but seriously last xmas my 99 RSV was left outside under a cover for 2 months with the alarm active, i was using a 14ah battery and it started first time within 3 cranks, My 06 has been sat for at least a month recently as i was off work awaiting an operation on my neck, again that started first time with the CAT1 alarm active, in fact i get too lazy to bother to go out and start her, she lives outside under an Oxford cover so is exposed to the sort of temperatures that like to degrade any battery. But believe it or not, starting a bike and leaving it at idle rarely charges a battery anyway, in a lot of cases it can ruin it, and these bikes shouldnt be left to idle for too long as it is. For what its worth in my 99 RSV it wasnt even a top of the range battery either, most people tend to sway towards the heavy duty Yuasa or Varta stuff, i use whatevers cheapest because to me a battery is a battery, its all lead and acid as far as i am concerned [:D][:D] I suppose i am just fortunate that i havent had a problem (only the ZX9R let me down in that department and i gave it the battery of our ZXR400 instead [:D] ) if in doubt then use an Optimiser, but above all else make sure that if its struggling to start you dont get tempted to start winding open the throttle, if it fires and the throttle is open as you are begging it to start up, you are likely to knacker the sprag clutch [;)] Personnally with these bikes, if it doesnt start within 5 seconds of cranking it over, i leave it for a short while as they are so easy to flood too [:)] 06 RSVR |
Posted By: danish ep
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2007 at 16:55
quote:Another vote for the 12v 14Amp battery. I had battery problems after I bought my bike, and knew in advance of the potential sprag clutch problems associated with turning over the engine with a lees-than-peak performance battery. After the original battery boiled over after being on trickle charge, and dripped onto the swing arm, I replaced it with a cheap as sh*t fill-your-own from On Yer Bike, but had similar staring issues with it. When I took it to Southern Cross for a service last year, they suggested I replace it with a Yuasa 12v 14 amp. Never had any probs since. Way over Yonder in the Minor Key |
Posted By: jay g
Date Posted: 03 Jan 2007 at 22:08
| Do you all agree that a 12 volt, 14 amp gel battery, an optimate charger{or similar},used when bike not in use,is the best set-up to have[?] Not starting the bike with an open throttle {to preserve sprag clutch}and that if it still doesn't start within 5 seconds of trying to crank it,to wait a while as these bikes can flood easily[?] Dont bother to pull 30a fuses,cause if you do all the above, you wont need to anyway[?].....seems to me to be the answer to our battery problems[^][:D] |
Posted By: jay g
Date Posted: 09 Jan 2007 at 21:41
| [:D][:D][:D][:D][:D] |
Posted By: TarmacScratcher
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2007 at 00:07
| A usefull thread thanks guys[:D] |
Posted By: rluddington
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2007 at 09:57
| Thanks to Dannyboy and all the others here for the info on dead batteries. Mine has finally failed after 5 years on the optimate charger so I took your advice and found the upgraded 14ah (ytx14bs)version on ebay for £26.99 delivered. Cheers.[:)] |
Posted By: jay g
Date Posted: 18 Mar 2007 at 12:06
| Just to let you all know that when replacing the 12 amp battery with a 14 amp,you can also replace the plastic clamp.Aprilia do a taller one to fit the taller 14amp battery[:)] part no.8138597 |
Posted By: LEGS
Date Posted: 20 Mar 2007 at 23:54
| Firstly, if you're having any starting concerns over poor starting on RSV's, it's "normally" a duff or at best a low battery, aside from the usual starter solenoid problem which will be a non start! 1. Firstly buy a YTX14BS battery. They're about £30 off ebay delivered. They will fit straight in. Either buy the earlier mille 1998 to 2001 battery holder bracket for a few quid or use some spacers. 2. Buy an Optimate 3 SP. They are about £35 delivered. They are the best bar none as they are a battery conditioner not a cheaper trickle charger like some mentioned. They can be left connected indefinately without any fear of over charging 3. Fill the battery with acid and leave for 30 minutes before putting the cap on to enusre any gasses have escaped. 4. Connect your new battery to the optimate before you put it on the bike. Leave it for 24 hours. This will ensure the battery is at 100% capacity. If you don't do this and connect the battery straight to the bike and use it you'll only get about 80% efficiency. Not good 5. Fit the battery to the bike, grease the battery terminals lightly and connect the plug in optimate adaptor and position so that you can easliy reconnect the optimate to the bike. 6. Reconnect the optimate each time you leave the bike making sure the optimate is switched off at the wall before reconnecting to the plug in adaptor. This will restart the optimate's charging and checking cycle. 7. Starting the RSV from cold, open the cold start lever fully and don't touch the throttle. It should go first click. After 10 seconds or so, close the cold start lever to around half until the temperature registers on the dash. you should then be able to close the cold start lever fully. no more battery or starting issues. hope this helps 02 RSVR |
Posted By: dannyboy
Date Posted: 21 Mar 2007 at 19:45
| i'm sure that is what everyone has said on the previous page.[;)] |
Posted By: jay g
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2007 at 12:54
| Up-date on the battery clamp thing.[^]Been dicussing it with a few people{thanks lads},and have come to the conclusion that...all Mille's from 2000 have the smaller clamp to fit the 12amp battery all are fitted with.Thats why when you{we}up-grade to the taller 14amp battery ,the clamp is too small....The early standard mille's had the 14 amp taller battery as standard and so the taller battery clamp. It seems that if you are upgrading to the taller 14 amp battery,you need to get a battery clamp off of the early standard mille. I am going to do this ,i have the battery{off Pab},and are now going to hunt down the taller battery clamp. I will give an up-date when i sort one out[:D]{phew!} |
Posted By: jay g
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2007 at 14:43
| Had a few problems getting the new 14amp gel to charge.All o.k now{i hope}and have fitted it onto bike and she burst's into life instantly now[:D] Managed to get a taller battery clamp and it fits well,as it should. So if you want one, here is the correct part number...8138597 Thanks to everyone,i think we have sorted this battery thing out now[^][:D][:D][:D] |
Posted By: willitorwontit
Date Posted: 12 Aug 2007 at 18:21
| I went with the YTX 14 gel battery from sprint, got it from ebay saved a fortune over Infinity. My advice is to get one of the optimate type chargers and you will find you wont have a problem. |
Posted By: Milleblack
Date Posted: 18 Feb 2008 at 16:54
I second the optimate for sure  .. done the trick for mine 
|
Posted By: YorkyMart
Date Posted: 23 Jun 2008 at 22:37
|
I routinely keep batteries on optimates and have had nothing but good results, we have a 10 year old honda quad here that we start up two or 3 times a year and it starts first time every time on a 7 year old Yuasa battery that is kept"optimised"
My new mille has an alarm ( insurance company insisted) and I have kept it on an optimate since buying it.After 3 weeks working away it started first press of the button
My last bike was a daytona 955i which would behave very strangely if there was not the correct voltage at start up , the firmware in the electronics would not boot properly and the speedo would read Zero.
I cured this with perhaps the best battery money can buy a Hawker Odyssey from Knight Battery Sales in warrington. These have incredible cranking power and are probably the only battery that can be brought back from deep discharge and still give 100% performance. coupled with an optimate I had a "belt and braces solution " I dont know if if they do Odysseys for Milles, but if they do one will be on my shopping list at some time ------------- Packed in Working, Packed in Biking, The two things that were going to see me off ! |
Posted By: rsvmillepete
Date Posted: 13 Aug 2008 at 19:18
|
AAAAAAARGH. Well dischuffed. Having just returned from out of country attempted to start my 03 mille r and guess what, lots of weeee noise and quite frankly not much else. Bike was on an optimate for the entirety of time away and even went as far as removing the 30amp fuses. The optimate indicated good and green, but still no magical v twin rumble. Have got the dreaded datatool 3 fitted, load of wank, and have noticed that no matter what I attempt it will not respond, arm/disarm. What it does do it squeal like a stuffed pig after a few attempted starts and then resets itself. Batt now indicating charge again on optimate. Is my starter shagged, is my battery shagged and what are the indications of a sprag failure??? PLEASE HELP!!!! ------------- '03 Mille R |
Posted By: Spoonz
Date Posted: 14 Aug 2008 at 00:45
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Indications of sprag issues are a spinning starter motor but not turning over the engine and or metalic plink noise often when you take your finger off the starter.
The sprag can stick though as it's a centrifugal clutch especially if your batt is weak and not giveing it a decent spin.
Make sure the batt is genuinely at full strength or jump from a car or something to make sure you have full voltage.
The implications of a duff sprag is a dent in your wallet really. it's not major surgery but the parts are not cheap and it's difficult to get the flywheel off to gain access.
|
Posted By: rsvmillepete
Date Posted: 14 Aug 2008 at 08:25
|
Cheers Spoonz,
reckon the whirring noise upon starter press is the fuel pump priming, but no ignition or starter motor turn after the fact. Am almost semi convinced I have an alarm problem that is negating ignition, based upon the fact that the soddin thing will not arm/disarm. Have pulled alarm in-line fuse but am now concerned that alarm will have set ignition to off and I will have to re-establish alarm to rectify fault. Got any datatool 3 experience out there? Anyone else suffered the same symptoms? ------------- '03 Mille R |
Posted By: sarge2771
Date Posted: 08 Jan 2012 at 01:07
|
datatool 3 are sh-t, had loadsa problems with mine over revving due to alarm. i find resetting it does the job ignition turned on, press button to activate alarm 3 times . turn ignition off turn ignition back on press start button ,this should start now but will have a beep as engines running . press activate alarm button once more while engines running . job done
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Posted By: camngetit
Date Posted: 08 Jan 2012 at 17:50
|
Main thing to check on batteries is cranking amps .did some checking on this when I needed a new one .some 14ah are the same cranking amps as the 12ah . I ended up with a 12ah battery but it's 220 cranking amps .used to have probe starting even on a optimate it's used every day .since new battery and uprated solenoid it doesn't go on the optimate Stood 2 weeks over Xmas and started no probs ------------- its twins for me !!!! www.apriliaperformance.co.uk www.apriliaforum.co.uk www.apriliaownersclub.co.uk |
Posted By: Whoooooooo
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2012 at 23:31
|
Pete, got a DT3 on my Gen2 & have had a good nosey at the associated info... From what you say & the response you're getting from your bike, it sounds like you may have "spiked" you're alarm. Once "spiked" the alarm will flatly refuse to play ball & there's no quick way round it. There is a specific optimiser for the DT3 alarm, presumably to avoid this issue. If charging the battery without removal from the bike, you need to disarm the system, turn on the ignition, put the alarm in service mode, then remove the alarm fuse to isolate the alarm. This prevents the alarm being spiked by the battery charger, but obviously not practical for long term use...  Once spiked, the solution is to remove the fuse, disconnecting main power from the alarm, remove the top cover of the alarm & locate the internal battery. Disconnect the battery connector from the board... wait 6 hours or so... reconnect internal battery, reassemble, fit fuse... cross fingers...  Pics & directions are available online at Datatools' website... Obviously I can't guarantee this'll solve the problem, but it's something to look into... ------------- CB125-Twin, '91 NSR125R-K... miss a few years... '95 ZZR600, '99 ZX9R, '05 RSV-R |
Posted By: v60rsvr
Date Posted: 17 Feb 2012 at 19:58
|
a ytx14bs is 12 amp , a ytx12bs is 10 amp
|
Posted By: v60rsvr
Date Posted: 17 Feb 2012 at 20:08
| cheers jay g gonna get that clamp u mention and wack a ytx14bs in 12 amp dont ya know! |
Posted By: 2troke
Date Posted: 26 Feb 2012 at 09:41
|
I got a Motobatt Mtbx12u it is Absorbent Glass Mat technology which apperaently gives it higher CCA around 200+ and stays charged up longer £35 from Busters!! Been no hesitation starting and no clock resets since!! ------------- IF IT AIN'T BROKE MOD IT ANYWAY!!!!! |
Posted By: snowman
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2012 at 20:13
| Std batt on mine but is always "on optimate 4" while in garage . 955i Sp/Ttiple is on 1 as well as they are hard on batts too. |
Posted By: apriliano
Date Posted: 22 Nov 2013 at 00:45
|
If the bike is in regular use, like every day or every other day, is this enough use to keep a good battery 100% charged? I have a Dynavolt that was fitted by the seller 6 months ago when I bought the bike and it's let me down once already. I'm now keeping it on a charger at the moment (it won't switch over to trickle mode which tells me the battery's the culprit) and you can hear the extra eagerness on start-up. I'm going to upgrade to a YTX14BS for a start and in the New Year I might replace/ upgrade the reg/ rec as a precaution. I'm just wondering how much of the blame can be laid on a suspect battery alone.
|
Posted By: IanG
Date Posted: 22 Nov 2013 at 16:27
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Mine would go around two weeks without being started before the battery showed signs of stress,have you got an alarm fitted? ------------- www.apworkshops.co.uk www.apriliaforum.co.uk www.apriliaownersclub.co.uk Looking forward to the next track day |
Posted By: nikfubar
Date Posted: 22 Nov 2013 at 17:30
+1 this is my 3rd battery in 8 years & these are definitely the best, got a datatool alarm fitted, done all the wiring upgrade mods, 150A solenoid & I stick it on the Optimate once a week & no starting problems |
2troke wrote:Posted By: bigbrownepaul
Date Posted: 22 Nov 2013 at 19:09
|
my experience is that you need to give the whole electrical system as clean and lube ie acf50 in all the connectors if they are ok then it gives the 200cca battery a chance! ------------- No bike 🙈 www.apriliaperformance.co.uk www.apriliaforum.co.uk www.apriliaownersclub.co.uk |
Posted By: odermate
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2013 at 21:35
| All wiring mods done and always on optimate, I'll unclip the headlights to start in cold weather just to ensure getting maximum juice to the starter. |
Posted By: joe 90
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2013 at 22:11
|
The thing to do is in the winter months when you use it very little is to remove the 2 x30 amp fuses under the seat. The immobiliser robs juice from the battery , also the edu continues to rob the battery as well Buy yourself a multi meter and keep the battery charged up to at least 12.85 volts to save your sprag , check for volts with your multi meter before you start it each time during winter , charge it if it falls below 12.85v. You will find the battery will keep its charge longer when you remove those 30 amp fuses . ------------- www.spoonztuning.co.uk I Luv Ducati's Discount Ducati breakdown cover call joe 0800 998 999 |
Posted By: boxer bloke
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2014 at 19:06
Guys is the taller clamp applicable to the gen2 bikes aswell? Cheers Jim
|
Posted By: Spoonz
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2014 at 19:18
| The Gen2 had a higher rated batt than the Gen1 rsvr from the factory so it was designed to accommodate a taller version. From memory the Gen1 rsvr was a 10 ah and Gen2 was 12 ah. Hence I don't think there is a clamp issue on the Gen2 for most batts. |
Posted By: boxer bloke
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2014 at 19:29
| Ok, thx Spoonz. |
Posted By: Kamm Matt
Date Posted: 26 Dec 2014 at 12:49
|
change my old shrink batt from my 04 factory.. buy a new batt still use the same size... n get an a extra supplement for him..   ------------- http://mibc.proboards.com/ |
Posted By: damo46
Date Posted: 26 Dec 2014 at 17:37
|
Just to mention lads from my own experience, I have a gen 1 tuono with ytx14bs battery, higher rated starter relay,removed brown connector...etc etc. All these things made a big difference, and funny enough the brown connector was fine but I removed it anyway for better connectors, previous owner used an optimate from day one when he bought the bike new. Even after all this the bike would sometimes turn over lazy when starting even when I was out on a ride for a few hours like the battery was on the way out, one day came home, turned bike off, went to start 10 minutes later to park up and no swing what so ever, the connection at the end of the lead going onto the starter had completely corroded off, you could tell by looking at it that it seemed to have been burned like it was a loose connection. Got the local bike shop to solder on a decent connector back on to the lead, bike swung over faster than it ever did since I got it after doing this, don't know how the f**k it stayed starting for as long as it did,the original connector is a light thin one. So even though the higher rated battery's and all that are worth doing don't forget to check this, cos if that connection is corroded and needs to be replaced it don't matter what battery is in it if there is a sh*t connection going onto the starter. ------------- Road Racing Ireland, Do It Between The Hedges |
Posted By: Kamm Matt
Date Posted: 26 Dec 2014 at 19:28
WOW..!!! this is new info and very valuable info mate!!! thanks!! willl check on mine soon..  ------------- http://mibc.proboards.com/ |
Posted By: damo46
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2014 at 10:31
Just be careful if you are taking the lead of the starter, when you turn the nut make sure you are holding the bolt secure , that bolt that comes out of the starter has an insulator around it on the inside, if the bolt turns when you are loosening the nut it will break the insulator on the inside, I found that out the hard way when I was doing mine and didn't hold it, bolt was badly corroded as well and it sheared off along with breaking the insulator 
See below post which has some pics on post no. 9 to give you an idea http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?187907-Did-I-just-break-my-starter-motor-Was-adding-dielectric-grease-to-starter-motor&highlight=starter+motor+parts ------------- Road Racing Ireland, Do It Between The Hedges |
Posted By: fredm
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2014 at 12:06
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Remember to disconnect the battery before you go undoing the starter motor lead, because there is battery voltage on the end of it.
|
Posted By: blinkey501
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2014 at 12:12
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Not read all the replys, so sorry if this has been mentioned. On ridersite we uncovered information about the apes that might interest you. Aprilia advise that you disconnect the battery if you are leaving the bike for long periods of time. This will save drain on the battery. The only down side is that you will need to change the clocks from kilometres to miles, and reset the clock. This does not take long if you know what buttons to press on the clocks.. Just a thought
------------- Never look down on anyone unless you are helping them up. |
Posted By: MountainMan
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2014 at 12:25
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And here is what buttons to press: %20" rel="nofollow - http://www.tifosi.com/rali/Moto/Aprilia/dashfunctions.html |
Posted By: Kamm Matt
Date Posted: 09 Jun 2016 at 02:56
http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=116411&stc=1&d=1252895111" rel="nofollow - http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=116411&stc=1&d=1252895111 http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=116412&stc=1&d=1252895136" rel="nofollow - http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=116412&stc=1&d=1252895136 and i hv read somewhere to upgrade from 12 to 14 size battery on rsvr gen2 we need to mods the battery holder isnt?
------------- http://mibc.proboards.com/ |
Posted By: Johnboy
Date Posted: 21 Feb 2017 at 18:16
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All interesting stuff guys, the latest design of 220+ CCA batteries certainly have the ability to hold and dispense a lot of energy during starting, especially hooked up to a new 150Amp solenoid. The missing link to ensure the current can actually be pulled by the starter though, is the OE cables that Aprilia designed many years ago, and designed them around battery tech of the day. Fast forward many years, and lots of possible corrosion, and heat damage, and there is no way you'll be seeing any way near the right amount of current at the starter motor. Hence, slow cranking, backlash in the sprag, and more damage to the resistive connection in the cables. The Copperkits cables are designed around 220CCA batteries, so will deliver your expensive battery Amps to the starter, crank faster with more torque, reduce damage to your sprag, and ensure you're reliable. So, for me it's 3 items, 1: 220+CCA BATTERY 2: Genuine 150 Amp Solenoid 3: 16mm2 copperkits cable upgrade. Then we can concentrate on have a great time riding 😊👠------------- 
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Posted By: Johnboy
Date Posted: 21 Feb 2017 at 18:25
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This design , Gen1 Shown has Auxiliary Optimate connections, and copper busbar at the battery terminals. All heat resistant design, and come with High temp silicone grease.    -------------
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Posted By: Rybes
Date Posted: 21 Feb 2017 at 20:14
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Their lookin good now mate. They've come along way since ya done mine. I'm almost tempted to buy another set ------------- ive just got my first vtwin and i think i got the right one |
Posted By: Johnboy
Date Posted: 21 Feb 2017 at 20:51
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Cheers Rybes! Yes they've evolved following requests from people using them ( you included! ) -------------
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Posted By: purehavok
Date Posted: 09 Mar 2017 at 22:05
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iv been using the motobatt YTX12 AGM bettery for a while now. Also using the shindengen FH020AA rectifier upgrade. i think it's still got the 500w stator in it too. Johnboy is spot OEM cables. they were boarderline for the OEM battery even back in the day. |
Posted By: IanG
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2017 at 15:47
|
When are people going to wise up to this crap about 'leave it on an optimate when not in use'? It's so not needed if the battery and charging system is good. The amount of people who have cooked their battery grows daily. ------------- www.apworkshops.co.uk www.apriliaforum.co.uk www.apriliaownersclub.co.uk Looking forward to the next track day |
Posted By: badapple
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2017 at 05:09
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I agree to a point Ian they shouldn't be left on all the time however if it's on for bit then turn it off for a while then back on if you are not using it especially over the winter months does that really cook the battery? I know for a fact by not plugging mine in it wouldn't want to know but I do have an alarm which I won't remove. ------------- I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left |
Posted By: IanG
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2017 at 14:15
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I don't have an alarm fitted although I did have a Meta 357t fitted when I got my Sv1000 new I have never had to have any of my bikes on one of those optmiser gadgets,I do have one though and the only time either bike gets connected to it is when I take the batteries off around November time and they come in and get a top up charge for a couple of hours. They are then disconnected and receive another couple of hours before they go back on the bikes around march time During the year I only use my bikes every couple of weeks and they both start as instantly as switching on a light,no 'turning over' just the first piston to firing position starts the engine. I have de bugged the wiring and fitted John's excellent cable upgrade kit though If everything is working properly charging and battery wise you should be able to go around 3 weeks without going near the bike and still have it start instantly ------------- www.apworkshops.co.uk www.apriliaforum.co.uk www.apriliaownersclub.co.uk Looking forward to the next track day |
Posted By: badapple
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2017 at 15:25
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Maybe I'm paranoid as I had lots of problems with my first ape but I too have got the full monty charging wise now on the newest bike and so far so good. ------------- I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left |
Posted By: brierley4life
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2017 at 22:50
| Johny I have emailed you regarding the cables dude. Please get in touch. I am away with work for the next 2 weeks, so no real rush. But still sooner rather than later please. A box of bits when I get home will will keep me out of trouble LOL |