twinfan wrote: I have an RSV4 unit on mine attached to AP rearsets and the system works great

Me too, a definite improvement:

It actually just looks like it might have been the hjc? tube I have. Removed and re-tightned/bled it and will see how it goes. Might need to snip off the bottom bit thats a bit crushed from where its been clamped on if it keeps being an issue.

I've already got the AP rearsets so couldnt use the original resevoir. That rsv4 one looks good actually.

...It also looks alot less rusty in that area

Sorry,get the gist now,you didn't have an original res? 

As of course you can use the original res with the AP rearsets.

Easy and tidily in fact,I thought about one of those integral res units but decided against it on two counts.

a) I'm tight    Why buy something new that's not needed and..

b)  They look to damn close to the s/arm for comfort to me and I'm using a brand new s/a.

I use the original master and res on both my Mille and Gen2 Tuono while using AP rearsets on both, although tbh I don't find any difference in rear braking before or after,I can still lock the rear wheel and never had any issues with bleeding or fade when things were standard.

One thing I did do which may have helped when first bleeding after splitting the system was when I replaced the brake line for a new HEL unit I specced it slightly longer and fitted it to the lower bleed nipple posn on the caliper with the bleed relocated to the upper posn.

No need for any of this stupid remove the caliper and hold it up by the seat nonsense.  You can bleed both the clutch and the rear brake easily with no issues and with only a couple of res fills by just doing the job correctly in the first place.

 I despair watching some modern 'technicians' they haven't got a clue if they don't have access to pressure or vac bleeding aids, let gravity do the hard work.
Old school rules   

These were 'dry build' pics  I'm now using a new Smoked Res to match the bar units and the caliper has had a complete overhaul with new fasteners throughout and and new seals etc.

Regarding spacers or washers I'm sorry but I can't remember, it shouldn't need any as the rearsets were designed to be a straight swap as I understand it..

I do seem to recall slightly relieving either a clearance hole or or the side of a counterbore slightly to enable a straighter actuating rod run though.

I do remember making an alloy bobbin to mount the res on

I might have another pic of the install somewhere,I'll have a search

It does look as though I may have used a stainless washer between the cylinder and mount, it could be that the spotfacing on the cylinder fouled slightly and needed a standoff,it was a few years ago now and the fine details escape me.  I could have a look when the rains stop and I can get to my garage again.

It sweats like crazy and absorbs moisture from the atmosphere.  

I went through 2 separate ones in 2 weeks before I binned them and used the original reservoir.

No idea why they're still being sold.

Weight saving on race bikes that only go an hour between bleeds. That's the only reason they exist.

And as you say, completely crap and potentially dangerous on road bikes but so many people are so blinded by 'Race bling' that they don't even think anything through.

It makes zero sense that a receptacle for storing brake fluid reacts badly to said brake fluid and is porous to boot.. bonkers!