Rapid bike evo
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Category: General Chat
Forum Name: Technical info
Forum Description: Part numbers and sources for all Aprilia models.
URL: http://www.rsvr.net/forum_posts.asp?TID=28551
Printed Date: 26 Mar 2026 at 22:56
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.07 - https://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Rapid bike evo
Posted By: arnie
Subject: Rapid bike evo
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2020 at 21:17
| I have a 2007 Tuono that I am fitting a Rapid Bike Evo too but am struggling to route the O2 connectors down to the top of the clutch housing and I can't even find the crank sensor plug to conect too, can anyone out there help please. |
Replies:
Posted By: IanG
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2020 at 22:55
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Does this not come with instructions? I must admit I've never heard of these modules before so perhaps they are something very new,in which case perhaps not entirely suited to older units like the old Rotax twin? Be interested to find out how it goes for you though ------------- www.apworkshops.co.uk www.apriliaforum.co.uk www.apriliaownersclub.co.uk Looking forward to the next track day |
Posted By: arnie
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2020 at 23:31
| Yes it has really clear colour photo's of where the original connections are and then what it looks like with the new connections fitted but it does not show where to route the cables and that's the problem plus the photo of the crank sensor plugs original position just is not where the photo shows and I just can't find it, I was recommended this unit as when I contacted the guy who fitted a power commander to my Mille years ago who said that I would be better to buy one of these and fit it my self and would not need dyno time as these unit self set up and learn, look them up they are very impressive ( if only i could fit the bloody thing ) |
Posted By: Spoonz
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2020 at 00:22
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The crank sensor connector should sit to the left of the tb's next to the left frame rail. If it has been moved due to other work on the bike you will have to track it's path up from the sensor itself. Routing of wires is just going to be a case of looking for the line of least resistance. probably along the right of the batt tray and down between the tank and the tray. There will be no gaping voids to use, you just have to look for gaps and maybe push existing wires out of the way as much as poss. |
Posted By: wigginsjp
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2020 at 14:00
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Hi Never heard of them either but their stuff if it does all it says is going to be very special. Have you taken the quickshifter as well as traction control etc ? I’ve always had dyno jet stuff as I know how it works but just because I’ve not tried something does not mean the something else isn’t actually better. Certainly get a lot more for your money. Looking forward to this. Fitting once you have the seat off and the tank/air box off will seem easy. Certainly the sensor will have no issue fitting. As Spoonz points out it should all pretty Munich find its own way with the path of least resistance. ------------- Aprilia RSVR Factory 2007 V2 1060cc Big Bore Aprilia RSVR Factory 2004 Race Bike Kawasaki ZX10R 2007 Race Bike Aprilia Tuono V4 1100 Factory 2020 www.apriliaperformance.co.uk www.apworkshops.co.uk |
Posted By: Spoonz
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2020 at 14:22
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I think it’s potential is going to be dependant on the fitment. With the basic narrowband lambda of bikes of the rsv era it’s going to be more limited. The auto tune features of the pc units usually call for wideband sensors to be fitted. It looks like it does what most modern ecu’s do and stores long and short term trim tables so it has a solution for a wider choice of scenarios. The Bike ecu’s of the day didn’t have the memory to do that so all adaptation was on the fly. For newer bikes which are increasingly coming oem equipped with wideband setups it has bigger learning potential but they already have long and short term trims. Someone did a test on a bmw fitted with a booster plug Recently and the ecu quickly adjusted out the booster plug as it detected it was at odds with its long term trim. So getting much harder to fool things via external adaptors.
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Posted By: IanG
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2020 at 16:16
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It actually looks fun to play with,just been watching this Might be tempted actually,just for something to play with on slow day I assume one just needs the big collars welding in the pipes for some wide band sensors? Actually on looking at the instructions it seems it just uses the standard Lambda sensor so I'm wondering how effective it would actually be Just for the record it would seem to be Pt No KRBEVO-076A @ £376 inc vat from Performance Parts Ltd. Currently Bennetts Rewards have everything from Performance parts (which includes Akrapovic) at 15% discount till the end of the month should you be insured with them.
------------- www.apworkshops.co.uk www.apriliaforum.co.uk www.apriliaownersclub.co.uk Looking forward to the next track day |
Posted By: Spoonz
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2020 at 17:36
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That’s the problem Ian. A narrow band lambda has such a small field of accuracy that it’s really only useful for emissions control. In that scenario it only has to be accurate at a specific afr. It’s not suitable for load tuning etc where your ideal afr will sometimes be outside it’s useful range. It should improve the mid range emission zones but be less useful elsewhere. If it will also work with a wide band setup that changes the game somewhat.
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Posted By: IanG
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2020 at 17:42
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I've just seen what Micah S thinks of them  I was getting a bit twitchy there for a couple of minutes till I realised the budget version wouldn't actually do what I wanted,you need the race version for engine braking etc etc and that suddenly got expensive even before buying the add ons I watch with interest though ------------- www.apworkshops.co.uk www.apriliaforum.co.uk www.apriliaownersclub.co.uk Looking forward to the next track day |
Posted By: arnie
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2020 at 19:51
| All sorted, followed advice and traced cable from crank sensor to the connector block and found it stuffed vertically down behind the frame rail instead of horizontally at the top of the frame rail as shown in the installation manual, but the previous owner had the upgraded generator / leads fitted so I think who ever did the work moved the cables away from where they normally live so the manual was not wrong after all, Secondly the cable to the O2 sensor splits ( from the loom provided ) to the left of the air filter box then down behind the engine under the rear cylinder exhaust but the only way to route it correctly is to remove the right hand engine mounting bolt ( just above the swinging arm pivot ) them make a tool to remove the castlated lock nut ( I used an old 1/2" drive 200mm socket ) the wind the engine mounting spacer out with an allen key until the cable would go through, this gives the most direct roure and keeps the cabe away from the exhaust. |
Posted By: arnie
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2020 at 10:48
| Hi got another question, while I had the tank raised I noticed the rubber fuel line from the tank to the fuel pressure regulator has lots of cracks but no leaks at the moment, I've priced a replacement but at over £70 for a short length of rubber pipe which seems OTT does anybody know of a replacement pipe I can buy that will take the return pressure and be ethanol proof. |
Posted By: Prsv
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2020 at 13:18
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Take fuel line to pertek or other hydraulic hose repair place sure it will be less than that. I have a rapid bike evo on Africa twin to get rid of low rpm lean fuelling works well takes around 100 miles to set up map been perfect ever since.
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Posted By: arnie
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2020 at 15:17
| Thanks for the message but the pipe I'm on about is not the pressure line from the pump but the return through what looks like a length of H/D fuel line marked up as 6 x 13 ( ID / OD I would think ) does anyone know what the return pressure is, I would think it would not be too high as I assume it's just an open end into the tank. So if anyone has a working knowledge of the Aprilia fuel injection system I would really appreciate some advice, I will pay the seventy odd pounds if needs be but I just think I am having my leg lifted for a short length of pipe. |
Posted By: Spoonz
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2020 at 15:39
| The pump puts out 60-70 psi depending on variables like the tank filter etc. It’s regulated to 48psi and the excess is fed back to the tank via the return pipe. So on average 12-28 psi in that return pipe. |
Posted By: arnie
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2020 at 16:04
| Good man thanks very much for your help, I think some good quality Ethanol proof fuel pipe will be able to take that pressure and save me a fortune. |
Posted By: Mr Miller
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2020 at 17:34
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121557417665?var=420501929559&ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649" rel="nofollow - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121557417665?var=420501929559&ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649
Can`t remember the id you need but this is a start ..
 ------------- If you find us in a hedge check the bike first please .. I`m free on the NHS... |
Posted By: arnie
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2020 at 21:32
| Never done a bike forum before but to all of you that have bothered to help thank you very much |
Posted By: dog78
Date Posted: 26 Feb 2022 at 13:19
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I have used a PC5 with Autotune At 300,yesit is not cheap as that Rapid evo, but it runs two wide band sensor in each header so maps the fueling individually. I have always left it on alive map, the bike has never been on a dyno. That's on a 2005 factory, when wee went to Donny, I had two big bores with me down there, 1103 and a1060 and all they could catch it down the straight they couldn't pass it. It does have a few mods on, i know the the 1103 had PC5 and Autotune At 300i a not sure about Adams 1060, mind you it had an Evo 6 exhaust which was beautiful, and the size of the bore on it. Plus there was great backup from Richard at UK Powercomader hep Centre, he even took my computer over and rewrote the firmware file whilst it was plugged into the PC5 and Autotune, amazing 👍. My friend who had the 15 V4 when they an aftermarket exhaust they said about fitting one of them, but I said to him he be better off fitting a race ecu. I have heard of some people using them on the late R1s because the ecu is not flashable. When I was going to build a big bore I was going to use an ignijet ecu but that was complicated. There's a few people on the here with that AT 300 and PC5 and some on gen ones. When I put Stefano's stacks on it, it didn't take long for it to learn them and over the years it has made quite a comprehensive fueling map. I run 13/1 AFR, you can fuel it for every gear if you want like tapmyhead done on his 1103 that he built. 👍
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