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Ken's 2008 RSV-R
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JimmyV4 View Drop Down
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Points: 896 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JimmyV4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Sep 2022 at 07:33
yeah its a nice bike and it would be a shame to bin it, a bigger shame would be for it to never be used in a manor for which it was designed,

relegated to going to get coffee once a month.

but as you said time energy etc i understand that i have been flat out and only done one track in the last 4 months, made me realize that the 1.2 has to go though.

but anyway im being a dick taking it off topic, lovely bike mate. you sticking with the current cans?
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Had to replace the handlebargrips

So orderd a brandnew set and replaced the bolts for the bar ends aswell, eventually replaced the bar ends aswell.


fitted:
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Ice_ken View Drop Down
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Some titanium nuts and bolts to finish it up nicely


Only one piston moved when using the rear brake so a rebuild with new piston was due:



Also did the front as not all pistons moved at the same rate, one side example:
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badapple View Drop Down
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Absolutely loving the attention to detail on this ken a man after my own heart. Keep up the good work and updates 
I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left
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Ice_ken View Drop Down
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Originally posted by JimmyV4 JimmyV4 wrote:

yeah its a nice bike and it would be a shame to bin it, a bigger shame would be for it to never be used in a manor for which it was designed,

relegated to going to get coffee once a month.

but as you said time energy etc i understand that i have been flat out and only done one track in the last 4 months, made me realize that the 1.2 has to go though.

but anyway im being a dick taking it off topic, lovely bike mate. you sticking with the current cans?

Probably sticking with these, unless i find some hexagon akrapovic ones. These have a nice sound and look to them. Might remove the decal though.
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snowman View Drop Down
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Think you should put Q/A throttle on it .?
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Ice_ken View Drop Down
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Originally posted by snowman snowman wrote:

Think you should put Q/A throttle on it .?

No not really, it just enjoy it for what it is. 
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Ice_ken View Drop Down
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Fitted the tires and balanced the wheels, brake calipers refitted and bled. The titanium nuts and bolts give it a nice finishing touch. 




Brembo, öhlins, Pirelli en titanium bouten/moeren  :bow:

Back on 2 wheels
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426hemi View Drop Down
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Very nice, a lot of my favourite brands 😁
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Welcome to our clan..........Utterly beautiful - I've not seen one this colour on the road in the UK. I am also very envious of your garage !!!!!
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you’ll find your speedo will not work with those Ti disc bolts 


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Nice to see someone take a relatively stock bike to the best it can possibly be. Nice work!

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426hemi View Drop Down
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As red says ti or stainless bolts on the rear disc will not let your speedo work, be very careful on the height of the bolt heads as the speedo sensor is only a couple of mm away from the standard bolt heads and if you damage the sensor they’re getting rare and expensive.
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snowman View Drop Down
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Originally posted by 426hemi 426hemi wrote:

As red says ti or stainless bolts on the rear disc will not let your speedo work, be very careful on the height of the bolt heads as the speedo sensor is only a couple of mm away from the standard bolt heads and if you damage the sensor they’re getting rare and expensive.
I was going to say that but thought the nuts were for the sprocket???? Ahhh see new ti bolts in disc , must pay more attention Wink
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Ice_ken View Drop Down
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Originally posted by snowman snowman wrote:

Originally posted by 426hemi 426hemi wrote:

As red says ti or stainless bolts on the rear disc will not let your speedo work, be very careful on the height of the bolt heads as the speedo sensor is only a couple of mm away from the standard bolt heads and if you damage the sensor they’re getting rare and expensive.
I was going to say that but thought the nuts were for the sprocket???? Ahhh see new ti bolts in disc , must pay more attention Wink

yes i've noticed Ti aren't magnetic, even stainless ones don't work. So back to original bolts unfortunately.

I've put titanium nuts on the sprocket, yes.
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Ice_ken View Drop Down
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Did a first ride, had a few issues(such as speedo not working due to Ti bolts) but nothing major.




Needed to fix:
-clutchfluidreservoir leaking, order a new one
-brakes not that good -> need rebleeding (forgot to bleed the mastercylinder)
-Speedo not working due to Ti bolts -> swap back to OEM after trying stainless ones.
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Interested to hear you're thoughts on the ride/engine?
I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left
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Ice_ken View Drop Down
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Originally posted by badapple badapple wrote:

Interested to hear you're thoughts on the ride/engine?

to be honest I really like it.

The seating position is no problem for me, i would like some tank grips though so i'm ordering those pretty soon. The seat itself is quite hard and that's a bit of a suprise having ridden other Aprilia.

Engine has got plenty of torque from low down and in the midrange, it responds well to throttle inputs. The top end isn't amazing compared to a Duc V4 but that's what I expected so no complaints. The gearbox is great, better then my Ducati actually, it's nice and crisp. Shame there's no quickshifter but I don't ride it to win races so I don't mind using the clutch. The clutch is pretty good aswell, I've read people have trouble finding neutral at traffic lights but i've not come across that issue. I really like the exhaust note aswell. Not sure what the fuell economy is just yet, haven't ridden it enough.

Suspension is pretty good after I set it up for my "skills"Wink it's not harsh, the damping is very nice. It's stable in corners but a bit lazy going side to side. I'd love to get some factory forged wheels for it. I haven't pushed the limits on this bike yet, but the tires feel good. The reason i've not been giving it the been are the brakes.

Brakes are OK at the moment, the hyrdaulic pressure is fine but the bite and stopping power isn't good enough. I figured it's those old brake pads, i've got new SBS sintered ones arriving next week.

Anything i've missed?
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426hemi View Drop Down
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Points: 5795 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 426hemi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Sep 2022 at 21:24
When you fit the new pads give the disc surfaces a scrub with some brake cleaner and a scotchbrite pad, you don’t want old pad material with new.
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snowman View Drop Down
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I see your using 190/50…… I’ve always used 190/55 , might make it quicker side to side ?????? Others will know more than myself on here though.
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426hemi View Drop Down
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I always use 55 profile as well.
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I’ve just changed from a 55 to a 50 and not really noticed any change in turn in speed, these things just roll from corner to corner, the faster sweeping corners the better they are through them.
Probably more noticeable side to side on track though.
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190/55 for me as well Big smile

And so would Aprilia if that profile had been available when they were current I feel.

Turns as quick as a 180 but with a bigger contact patch.

I just swapped boots on my Mille and the first corner I got to I almost laid the bike down it turned in so quickly Embarrassed

Luckily it was a left/right complex so I was already counter steering for the next one.

It turns out the scrub I fitted in a hurry the last time I tracked it was an 180/55 and I hadn't picked up on the slower steering as the track was new to me and I just adapted and slowed for the final day,the proper size tyre bought the handling back to what it should have been.

It definitely DOES make a difference,especially if you have your suspension dialled in.

Most suspension specialists like Maxton etc will ask you your weight,what type of riding you do and what make,profile of tyre you use before putting in a base setting as it matters that much.
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Looking forward to the next track day
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I can finally continue doing maintenance
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    Now do yourself a favour and before fitting those dogbone bearings just run the corner of a SHARP file against the end chamfer on the bearing pins Wink

While I'm sure it's been corrected by now there were instances of aftermarket pins with inadequate or non existent hardening doing the rounds. 

If the file does anything other than skate harmlessly off then don't bother fitting it

If they're genuine Aprilia parts that came in sealed Aprilia bags then no need to bother as they'll be correctly hardened and tempered otherwise always check just to be sure.

This is one instance where I'd always now go for genuine parts having suffered from having to do the job twice.

That also goes for the full complement bearings rather than the often seen caged variety commonly fitted instead.

Always better to err on the side of caution.  Otherwise ,well impressed Clap
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Looking forward to the next track day
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Originally posted by IanG IanG wrote:

    Now do yourself a favour and before fitting those dogbone bearings just run the corner of a SHARP file against the end chamfer on the bearing pins Wink

While I'm sure it's been corrected by now there were instances of aftermarket pins with inadequate or non existent hardening doing the rounds. 

If the file does anything other than skate harmlessly off then don't bother fitting it

If they're genuine Aprilia parts that came in sealed Aprilia bags then no need to bother as they'll be correctly hardened and tempered otherwise always check just to be sure.

This is one instance where I'd always now go for genuine parts having suffered from having to do the job twice.

That also goes for the full complement bearings rather than the often seen caged variety commonly fitted instead.

Always better to err on the side of caution.  Otherwise ,well impressed Clap


can't just reuse the OE ones that are in it? Or are the bearings a different inside diameter?
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The oem ones are not sealed in a race so tend to fall out. Depending how well serviced the dog bone and swingarm bearings were (usually never) they can be very rusty and even broken in half. 
I’ve had the same painful experience Ian is describing on three occasions, so I only now go oem for the bearings and bushes along with the upgraded nitrile seals. 
That being said i did put a Racetorx one on my gen2 and it now lives on my Tuono V4. 
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Very nice clean bike Ken Thumbs Up
Question everything.
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Originally posted by Ice_ken Ice_ken wrote:

can't just reuse the OE ones that are in it? Or are the bearings a different inside diameter?


There are a third option available bearing wise I believe that is the best of all options but I'm not sure now where they're from,these are full complement rollers but have a shape like a rolling pin if you will and the cage has rolled returns on the ends so keeping them all captive.

From an engineering perspective the more rollers the better as given the very small arc of movement the surface loadings are only ever put on small number of rollers and so are correspondingly higher than they would be for a fulling rotating bearing,hence the need for a properly hardened and tempered pin to take the loads.

This is what happens after a couple of hundred miles otherwise
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Looking forward to the next track day
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Originally posted by IanG IanG wrote:

Originally posted by Ice_ken Ice_ken wrote:

can't just reuse the OE ones that are in it? Or are the bearings a different inside diameter?


There are a third option available bearing wise I believe that is the best of all options but I'm not sure now where they're from,these are full complement rollers but have a shape like a rolling pin if you will and the cage has rolled returns on the ends so keeping them all captive.

From an engineering perspective the more rollers the better as given the very small arc of movement the surface loadings are only ever put on small number of rollers and so are correspondingly higher than they would be for a fulling rotating bearing,hence the need for a properly hardened and tempered pin to take the loads.

This is what happens after a couple of hundred miles otherwise



so this kit from apworkshops isn't any good?
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