Doh!

I say "well" as it had to happen....my mate suggested I ride his Ducati as he couldn't get it dialled in at all well and suggested I ride that on the way back.  10 miles later I stop at a layby to discuss the Ducati's set up (which was awful...every bump saw me thrown out of the seat....it was borderline dangerous as well as uncomfortable).

He pulls in on the RSVR next to me on a downhill slope, puts the side stand down and gets off.  A few moments later we were startled by a crash behind us...he'd not left the thing in gear and it had rolled off the sidestand and my minty Mille is now looking very secondhand.

Clutch lever bust, bar end ruined, swingarm paintwork damaged right at the back (still trying to understand that one!), side ear scuffed to chuffery, lower front panel damaged and tail unit damaged.

I reckon perhaps £450 worth of damage.

Managed to ride it back with my new "shorty" clutch lever after checking the frame was ok.  What saved the bike from worse damage was the fact it had the lower frame R&G bungs fitted, and they saved the main side panel and tank from suffering any damage.  For anyone worrying that they spoil the look of the bike, take it from me, it won't be nearly as bad as dropping it without them fitted!  I'm a convert.  If only I'd had the rear swingarm R&Gs fitted it might have prevented the swingarm from getting scraped.

My mate took it far worse than I did and was gutted, but I reminded him it was nothing that couldn't be fixed and not to worry, these things happen.  He's offered to pay for the damage so the only pain is having to strip everything off the bike to be repaired and sprayed.

I'll do the frame but leave it to the professionals to do the rest. I may try and find carbon ears as per the original trim to replace the silver plastic ones which I was planning on doing anyway.  Sourced OEM style aftermarket clutch/brake lever set, new crash bung and getting quotes to have carbon ears made up.

Sh8t happens as they say but it's an opportunity to improve things too.  Hey ho.

The Ohlins was definitely worth going for (ie RSVR) over standard.  It's hugely better on road once set up well.  I love everything about the way it rides from the power delivery to brakes to handling.  It was so much better than my mate's mint 900SS it was really in a different league and I may have found another Mille disciple albeit I wish it could have been under different circumstances.

Has anyone out of interest compared the Forza 100 Eprom with the RP58 (derestricted map) eprom, and if so, is there much of a difference? 

bloody side stand on these things is pathetic aint it it was my number one concern when i got mine. oh well as you said all fixable, thank f**k the tank dident take a bang.

The main difference I noticed between the FR100 and RP58 is the Forza chip is a lot richer. You'll want to use the trim pots to reduce injector open times if you give it a go. Apart from that it could be placebo but I think it's a little more responsive. He did advance the ignition a bit.. 

Many of the impacts are bigger in some areas than others though. Like you can raise the rear a bit to slightly reduce trail, but mostly increase swingarm angle. Or you could instead raise the front to slightly reduce swingarm angle, but mostly increase trail. So they interact, but the main effect is like 5x more than the secondary which makes it easy enough to manage. You can then think if the problem is corner entry, no problem adjust the front. If you lack grip, raise the front, if it's too hard to steer, lower the front. That'll have some effect on the back, but not worth worrying too much about. If the probkem is corner exit, no problem adjust the rear. If it's going wide on exit, raise the rear. If it's spinning up too soon, lower the rear. That again will have a small effect on the front, but nothing too bad. Then if you're that fussed, rinse and repeat with smaller adjustments.

You can get to a very good position quite easily I think. It's not black magic at all.

I think these bikes are super easy to work on. All fairings off in a couple minutes. The worst part is the 2 allen bolts at the front of the belly pan. The rest pops off very quickly. The tail can take a bit of maneuvring but it doesn't get removed often. I've heard there's literally no bike that makes tail removal easy either so no real loss there.

I got away with leaving them in place for the ear removal and managed to get one back on without removing the nose fairing which if the front well nuts drop out, is needed.  Won't get away with it again so when I replace them, I'll have to remove the whole front which is a PITA.