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Gen1 RSV Remap - Power Commander |
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wigginsjp 
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Joined: 11 Feb 2008 Location: calne Status: Offline Points: 3485 |
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 Posted: 07 Aug 2022 at 16:28 |
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If it’s for an open air box I would expect it to be richer.
Of note is it normal to reconnect the restriction wire? Only I don’t think i ever did on any of my gen1’s
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Aprilia RSVR Factory 2007 V2 1060cc Big Bore
Aprilia RSVR Factory 2004 Race Bike Kawasaki ZX10R 2007 Race Bike Aprilia Tuono V4 1100 Factory 2020 www.apriliaperformance.co.uk www.apworkshops.co.uk |
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oscarb2b
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Joined: 27 Jun 2013 Status: Offline Points: 195 |
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Posted: 07 Aug 2022 at 16:51 |
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Ok thanks.
I read up on the forums about selecting map 1 for my setup when using the FR200, and that meant reconnecting the restriction wire. Is that correct?
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legend88
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Joined: 18 Aug 2013 Location: Newcastle Status: Offline Points: 6699 |
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Posted: 07 Aug 2022 at 17:42 |
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Yes, reconnecting the restriction wire activates map1 for the FR200. You could try map 2 (Wire disconnected) but if it makes the rear cylinder better it will probably make the front worse. I would just book it in with Griff and treat the ride there as a ride out, that's what we do anyway isn't it? Get a mate to ride with you and have a great road trip. |
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wigginsjp
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Joined: 11 Feb 2008 Location: calne Status: Offline Points: 3485 |
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Posted: 07 Aug 2022 at 18:41 |
If that’s what’s recommended then yes. I never used the FR100 or 200 chips when I was riding the gen1 so it may or may not of been required on those. Dunno, but as legend says have a call to Griff and get booked in. It will feel a different bike once he has fettled with it
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Aprilia RSVR Factory 2007 V2 1060cc Big Bore
Aprilia RSVR Factory 2004 Race Bike Kawasaki ZX10R 2007 Race Bike Aprilia Tuono V4 1100 Factory 2020 www.apriliaperformance.co.uk www.apworkshops.co.uk |
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redratbike
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The Collector Messiah Joined: 07 May 2008 Status: Offline Points: 16331 |
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Posted: 07 Aug 2022 at 19:16 |
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it won’t hurt go for it
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oscarb2b
Moto2 racer
Joined: 27 Jun 2013 Status: Offline Points: 195 |
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Posted: 08 Aug 2022 at 18:40 |
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Griff’s fitted me in for the CO/TB job on the way up to a trackday on Friday so will report back on on the results.
He’s asked me to get my exhaust bungs freed up. Apparently they can be troublesome. Would you go straight on with a blowtorch or leave overnight to soak with WD40?
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legend88
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Joined: 18 Aug 2013 Location: Newcastle Status: Offline Points: 6699 |
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Posted: 08 Aug 2022 at 19:30 |
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Definitely soak in a few coats of release agent first. PlusGas is better than WD40 if you have some. |
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oscarb2b
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Joined: 27 Jun 2013 Status: Offline Points: 195 |
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Posted: 08 Aug 2022 at 19:46 |
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Thanks, I’ll give that a go tonight and see what occurs tomorrow. I’ve only got WD or GT85 so that will have to do!
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Stevex
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Joined: 05 Jul 2016 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 1481 |
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Posted: 08 Aug 2022 at 20:36 |
Map 1 (with the oem air box ) needs the cut wire re connecting. I reconnected mine and run map 1, the bike still pulls my arms out their sockets  Those exhaust plugs...make sure you've got a very good hex head socket that is a very good fit. You really don't want to round them off.
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People say I don't know Jack Sh1t; but I do, he lives next door.
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oscarb2b
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Joined: 27 Jun 2013 Status: Offline Points: 195 |
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Posted: 08 Aug 2022 at 21:05 |
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Got it, cheers.
Yes don’t get me wrong it’s lively and strong, but I’ve ridden it back to back with how it was with the old power commander, then eprom with a 2 tooth smaller front sprocket and it’s definitely hesitant in the lower 60% of the rev range
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redratbike
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Posted: 09 Aug 2022 at 12:47 |
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sometimes a little tightening can crack the plugs loose sounds weird
just did it with a few spare downpipes and impact driver wouldn’t shift them so tightened first and they cracked then came out
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oscarb2b
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Posted: 09 Aug 2022 at 16:53 |
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Ok cool, I’ll try that.
Just confirming these are the plugs on the headers (not collector) part of the system. I’ve got Allen key type heads not a nut as such?
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wigginsjp
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Joined: 11 Feb 2008 Location: calne Status: Offline Points: 3485 |
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Posted: 09 Aug 2022 at 17:24 |
One in the front header between/under the rad. One on the rear visible next to the rear shock. Often corroded in place unless maintained and copper slip used. Worst case is to drill them out which is straight forward in situ. Front wheel off for front. |
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Aprilia RSVR Factory 2007 V2 1060cc Big Bore
Aprilia RSVR Factory 2004 Race Bike Kawasaki ZX10R 2007 Race Bike Aprilia Tuono V4 1100 Factory 2020 www.apriliaperformance.co.uk www.apworkshops.co.uk |
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oscarb2b
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Posted: 09 Aug 2022 at 20:37 |
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Rear one came one easy, the front one is not budging and with only a Allen head I’m struggling to get any decent leverage using various options in the tool armoury.
If I do drill it out, is it best to use a bit that’s as near to the size of the plug as possible? Or go smaller? |
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wigginsjp
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Joined: 11 Feb 2008 Location: calne Status: Offline Points: 3485 |
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Posted: 09 Aug 2022 at 20:46 |
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Try a heat gun and more penetrating oil. Few times if need be. It may still come out.
I’d try that until the Allen key rounds it off and that’s when I would give up and drill. Start around the size of the now rounded Allen key hole and work up until you get to the size just under the total hole size. I would suggest running a tap through it if you have one that size to clean the threads out. If however it all goes horribly wrong, plenty of the front pipes about and usually pretty cheap. Reverse thread drill or anti-clockwise, whatever they are known as are good too, as they drill the heat sometimes undoes the thing for you. I’m not expert, but I’ve had many a success doing it the above ways. As someone said earlier a plus gas releasing spray from halfords or similar, is a very worthy addition to your tool box in any eventuality 👍🏻
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Aprilia RSVR Factory 2007 V2 1060cc Big Bore
Aprilia RSVR Factory 2004 Race Bike Kawasaki ZX10R 2007 Race Bike Aprilia Tuono V4 1100 Factory 2020 www.apriliaperformance.co.uk www.apworkshops.co.uk |
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oscarb2b
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Joined: 27 Jun 2013 Status: Offline Points: 195 |
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Posted: 09 Aug 2022 at 20:59 |
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Cheers mate I’ll give that a go.
I’ve just done more penetrating fluid and will try with the heat gun tomorrow. The drilling after that I would have thought! I’ve got a trackday on Friday and Griff is seeing me on the way up so will most likely have to drill it out if it’s not released tomorrow. The Allen head was starting to round off on the last attempt this evening. I’ll get some PlusGas ready for the next corrosion adventure 😋
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IanG
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Joined: 04 Oct 2010 Location: N Wales Status: Offline Points: 10767 |
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Posted: 10 Aug 2022 at 14:35 |
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Been there,had that problem and came to the realisation after having had the front bung drilled out in situ and the thread cleaned up afterwards (Badly on the piss) that the best way to do things is bite the bullet and remove the front pipe.
It can then by held in a vise using soft jaws and the plug removed using a pair of plumbing Stilsons without any damage whatsoever. Whoever designed those bungs needs a kick in the nuts,they should have been made with a larger, external hex instead of a crappy 5mm internal that is pretty much guaranteed to cam out when time has done it's thing.
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www.apworkshops.co.uk
www.apriliaforum.co.uk www.apriliaownersclub.co.uk Looking forward to the next track day |
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oscarb2b
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Joined: 27 Jun 2013 Status: Offline Points: 195 |
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Posted: 10 Aug 2022 at 14:57 |
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Thanks Ian that’s a good suggestion, I had some of the very pliers out yesterday trying to get some purchase on the cap of the nut but without any luck due to the limited angle of attack.
I’m guessing to get the front header off means the whole system coming off? If I do end up drilling, does anyone know the largest size of drill bit you can go up to to avoid any issues when tapping a new thread? **Edit** Just spoken with Griff to firm up for Friday and he’s said the following if drilling: 4mm then 6.5mm & finally 8mm bits. Then tapped to 1/8th BSP
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oscarb2b
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Joined: 27 Jun 2013 Status: Offline Points: 195 |
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Posted: 11 Aug 2022 at 12:35 |
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Took the front wheel out last night and had a final go at removal before drilling - tried manual impact driver, 18v Impact driver both with heat added and it’s well and truly stuck. Running out of time for removing the whole system to get the front header in a vice so left it in situ and drilled out to 8mm and bought the right size/pitch tap from my local hydraulics shop.
So she’ll go into Griff tomorrow with a new thread ready to get plug the sensors in and take the readings for the CO adjustments.
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oscarb2b
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Posted: 11 Aug 2022 at 19:22 |
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Well what a bastard that was / Is.
Went with the 8mm Drill and 1/8 BSP tap but after over 30 sweaty minutes of tapping still no real progress. Spoke with my Dad who checked drill to tap sizes in his little conversion chart and I actually need a 8.75mm drill bit to tap at 1/8 bsp. Brilliant! Nearest I’ve got is 8.3mm drill bit so that will have to do
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IanG
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Joined: 04 Oct 2010 Location: N Wales Status: Offline Points: 10767 |
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Posted: 11 Aug 2022 at 21:06 |
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Anything other than at least the correct dia bit is likely to damage the tap. The idea of drilling to the core size is you can then unwind the remains of the fastener thread like a spring leaving the original thread untouched. Trying to run a tap down with a smaller hole will in most cases at best give a second start and weaken the resulting thread. And just to further challenge excepted wisdom perhaps someone would like to check a new bung with a thread guage or better yet a shadowgraph as I once checked a new plug in the toolroom when I was working and although I was told it was a BSP thread it was actually closer to M10 x 1mm fine ( standard spark plug ), which would make much more sense being a European engine. They are very close,in fact it's much like 1/4" Whit and 1/4" UNC , almost the same and in fact one will mate with the other as in a Whit bolt will go in a UNC nut ( or vice versa) but not the other way due to the flank angles being 55o on the imperial and 60o on the American. Same in this case, BSP = 55o and rounded tooth form and M10 Metric series are 60o with a truncated tooth form Just a by the by and in case Aprilia have run out of plugs as they're prone to, Ducati use exactly the same part and it used to be both cheaper and a lot more readily available. In fact I think they even came with a copper washer which gives a bit more projection for stillsons to grip onto in the future. Ducati part No: 78020011A Exhaust Pipe Plug  Drilling and tapping in situ is the cowboy/mechanics solution.  Be an engineer ( Ha Stillsons  ) I have never known a pair of stillsons to fail, it's not much work to remove the front pipe,3 nuts and a spring as I recall. |
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www.apworkshops.co.uk
www.apriliaforum.co.uk www.apriliaownersclub.co.uk Looking forward to the next track day |
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oscarb2b
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Posted: 19 Aug 2022 at 22:13 |
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So after the exhaust bung debacle, which in hindsight could have been easily remedied by a quick reference of the drill size to the tapping size. I know for next time! I respect engineers and their ability to exploit their logical mindset when it comes to these problems but I also respect the fact I’m not an engineer but still get by without putting myself in danger by doing a shoddy job!
Griff saw me early on Friday on the way up to Donington and plugged the Mille into his CO machine for a reading. He said it was within a few percent of perfect as it was. He also said the hydrocarbons were very low so he suspects it’s a healthy motor. Although he did say he tuned it (whatever that means!). He raised the tick over speed to help with engine breaking on track and it did make a difference. Managed to get to the track in the nick of time, rolled the bike out and went straight out. The bike felt slightly smoother and less hesitant but given the CO levels were pretty much spot on, I probably felt the tweak of the TB more so. The gearing (15/42) was a nice upgrade over the 17/42 I’ve always ran. It wasn’t rip your arms off, but just felt more at home on track, and the ratios felt closer somehow even if they weren’t. After a few sessions getting used to the new gearing, I felt really good with the bike and starting to understand, possibly this bike in particular, needs a few more revs than i think to keep In that strong area of drive. If I drive out a corner at 5/6000rpm it’s still a little hesitant but add a few more revs it soo clean and strong up top it’s quite addictive! I think in conclusion I need to ride around the bikes characteristics more and not look for perfection or utopia. Clearly it’s not the midrange monster I thought it would be after the mods, but it’s still really enjoyable on road and great spanking it on track. Shout out to Bridgestone s22 too, they’ve had two fairly hard days on track and some road miles thrown in and I don’t think I will find a better tyre of dealing with both scenarios or performing so well either. Even with the 40 degree air temps on track last Friday there wasn’t any squirming or protesting from either end all day. Who needs slicks?!! |
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oscarb2b wrote: