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Gen 2 valve clearance spec |
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MikeyR
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Joined: 12 May 2020 Location: Melksham Status: Offline Points: 85 |
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Topic: Gen 2 valve clearance specPosted: 16 Feb 2022 at 13:50 |
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Afternoon All,
Thought I'd make good use of a Wed afternoon whilst out of work, just waiting for some fuel pump bits from AP to turn up & whilst the tank is off it'd be a good idea to check the valve clearances at the same time. I'm struggling to find the specs although they seem to be 0.11 - 0.18 inlet & 0.22 - 0.28 ex, could someone kindly confirm or correct this, thanks. Bikes a 2007 Factory. Also did Haynes make a manual for Gen 2's, can't find any even a hint that they did! Much appreciated. Mike
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badapple
Premium Member Joined: 03 Nov 2014 Location: Norwich United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 5776 |
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Posted: 16 Feb 2022 at 13:59 |
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No Haynes for the Gen2, I'm pretty sure those figures are right but it's been a while since I last did the job. Hopefully someone can confirm........Spoonz???
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I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left
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MikeyR
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Joined: 12 May 2020 Location: Melksham Status: Offline Points: 85 |
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Posted: 16 Feb 2022 at 14:55 |
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Cheers , that confirms the Haynes bit. Just answered my own question, found the manual on the AP site and that confirms the clearance specs, 0.11-0.18 IN & 0.22 - 0.29 EX, kettle on & spanners out....
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legend88
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Joined: 18 Aug 2013 Location: Newcastle Status: Offline Points: 6699 |
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Posted: 16 Feb 2022 at 15:12 |
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Sorry to jump on to this thread but I'm just about to do my Gen1. Mine is 2001 - Are the specs the same as for the Gen2 (The manual that Mikey refers to above is dated 00/2003-10) Are the cam cover gaskets reusable or one time use? Given it's probably only the second time they have been off in 20 years maybe they should just be changed anyway? Think I've just answered my own question! |
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Spoonz
Admins Group Joined: 11 Feb 2008 Location: North Devon Status: Offline Points: 10957 |
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Posted: 16 Feb 2022 at 18:37 |
Pretty much the same 0.12 - 0.17 & 0.23 - 0.28
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badapple
Premium Member Joined: 03 Nov 2014 Location: Norwich United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 5776 |
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Posted: 16 Feb 2022 at 20:21 |
I'd definitely replace them Ray, on the Gen2 the front bolts are a bastard to get to and it's likely the gen1 is the same. For what it costs its not worth having to do it all again because of a weep.
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I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left
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legend88
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Joined: 18 Aug 2013 Location: Newcastle Status: Offline Points: 6699 |
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Posted: 17 Feb 2022 at 08:30 |
Cheers, just a little tighter tolerance then. |
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legend88
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Posted: 17 Feb 2022 at 08:32 |
Yes, my thoughts, 20 year old rubber might not be the best although I've had no weeps so far. Shame to disturb things really but the check is important.
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MikeyR
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Joined: 12 May 2020 Location: Melksham Status: Offline Points: 85 |
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Posted: 17 Feb 2022 at 09:13 |
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Just checked mine at 20K miles & I can see someone has previously had the covers off. All good, everything pretty much mid range for IN, the EX are at 0.24 which still leaves a decent tolerance. I guess a previous owner may have had them properly adjusted as they're all so consistent. Happy days. I've reused the gaskets although only time will tell whether I'll need to have a word with myself later about being a cheapskate! It's a good month as the clearances on my Daytona 675 were all spot on too, their EX valves can be a bugger for closing up.
Good luck with yours Legend.
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badapple
Premium Member Joined: 03 Nov 2014 Location: Norwich United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 5776 |
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Posted: 17 Feb 2022 at 10:56 |
Excellent news. Just out of interest what millage was your 675 on? My Gen2 Daytona only has 8.5k on the clock and doesn't need checking until 12k according to the service schedule so I haven't opened it up yet.
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I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left
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MikeyR
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Posted: 17 Feb 2022 at 11:09 |
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It's a Gen 2 '09 675 with 18.5 K on it. I checked them at about 12.5K and all were good, nothing has altered in the last 6K. I know some people have out of spec clearances at 12K but I guess I've just been lucky here. I have had out of spec EX clearances on street triples previously at 12K. I do the occasional track day in the inters group, ride there and back, so I don't crucify the motor. In fact my missus gives it a harder time than I do but she never has to fix/service anything!
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badapple
Premium Member Joined: 03 Nov 2014 Location: Norwich United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 5776 |
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Posted: 17 Feb 2022 at 13:40 |
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Good to know mate, I've never tracked it she's a bit of a princess to be honest probably spend more time polishing it than riding it but a lot of that has been because of covid restrictions I intend to ride it a lot more this year. You have good taste in machines
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I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left
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Stevex
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Joined: 05 Jul 2016 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 1481 |
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Posted: 20 Feb 2022 at 13:22 |
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I checked my Gen 1 Tuono 12-18 months ago, x2 out of lower limits and a bunch on the border of lower limits. I did them all, either swopping shims or replacing, aimed for closer to the upper limits so hopefully wont have to touch them again for quite some time. I didnt remove the front pots cam chain tensioner as I didnt want to take the coolant system apart to gain access. Instead I removed the exhaust cam sprocket which allowed me to slip the cam chain off the inlet sprocket to remove both cams. The rear tensioner is easy to get to, but the balance gubbins has to come off too. Quite an interesting job really.
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People say I don't know Jack Sh1t; but I do, he lives next door.
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legend88
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Posted: 21 Feb 2022 at 10:52 |
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I'm hoping mine will be in spec but in case not, do you have a link to a guide to this? I'm assuming the balancer shaft will need timing?
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Stevex
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Posted: 21 Feb 2022 at 18:42 |
The balancer assembly is part of the rear cylinder cam/sprocket assembly, it'll only go together one way, so you just ensure the cam timing is correct. I made a TDC securing bolt to lock the engine in place for each cylinder, other than that I just made sure the cam chains were kept tight so they didn't come off the crank teeth. I read this prior to starting work, it's for a Falco but the Gen 1 engine is virtually if not totally identical. I can't remember what it advised for the front cylinder, but removing the exhaust cam sprocket to release the cam chain is the easier way to go, just remember to Loctite the bolts back in. |
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People say I don't know Jack Sh1t; but I do, he lives next door.
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legend88
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Posted: 23 Feb 2022 at 13:02 |
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Thanks Steve
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legend88
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Posted: 22 Mar 2022 at 07:38 |
Do you have a spec for the locking bolt needed? Just getting around to this now!
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Spoonz
Admins Group Joined: 11 Feb 2008 Location: North Devon Status: Offline Points: 10957 |
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Posted: 22 Mar 2022 at 14:36 |
It’s a 10cm long 8 x 1.25mm bolt. |
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legend88
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Posted: 23 Mar 2022 at 07:45 |
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Cheers Spoonz.
Still hoping I don't need it but will soon know. |
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Stevex
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Posted: 23 Mar 2022 at 11:51 |
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You can make one easily. I used a coach bolt with the correct thread, put a slot in the head for a screwdriver and ground the end to a rounded point to fit into the crank indent.
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People say I don't know Jack Sh1t; but I do, he lives next door.
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legend88
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Posted: 24 Mar 2022 at 07:52 |
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Cheers Steve, that was my plan
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Stevex
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Posted: 27 Mar 2022 at 10:35 |
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One other tip you might find useful... when you get the crank to either TDC with the blank removed to fit the lock bolt, get a torch and look through the hole to the crank and visually line the indent up before inserting the bolt. So much easier that going by feel.
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People say I don't know Jack Sh1t; but I do, he lives next door.
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legend88
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Posted: 17 May 2022 at 09:02 |
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So with family issues taking centre stage for the last couple of months (Sadly my Dad passed away), I'm now tackling this. I've checked all the clearances and one is just out of spec (Tight) while all the rest are either bang on the lower limit or only 0.01 away. So they are all to do. I'm in the process of making a flywheel locking bolt and having read everything posted here and elsewhere, Steve your suggestions of removing the front cam gears seems the best option. However, what about the rear cylinder? Did you remove the cam gears on that as well or just loosen the tensioner and remove the chain? |
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Stevex
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Posted: 17 May 2022 at 19:28 |
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Sorry to hear about your dad, mate; RIP.
I removed the front exhaust cam sprocket to slacken off the front cam chain because I didn't want to strip down for access to the front tensioner; just keep the chain tight. The rear tensioner is easy to get at, so I removed that to slacken the cam chain and left the sprockets attached to the cams. I marked everything I could with an indelible marker just for belt and braces, sprocket teeth / cam chain link etc, to help with the re assembly. Stuff a rag into the cam chain tunnels, you really don't want to drop anything down there. The shims tend to stick in the followers and I had to measure them because the markings had worn off; I believe KTM shims fit the Ape and are cheaper. Have fun, I enjoyed the job.
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People say I don't know Jack Sh1t; but I do, he lives next door.
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legend88
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Posted: 18 May 2022 at 09:11 |
Thanks Steve, he fought cancer for a good while and had a huge op a couple of years ago but it was pneumonia in the end as he didn't have the strength to fight it. Thanks also for confirmation of the work details it confirms my thinking. Locking bolt now made so off to war we go!
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legend88
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Posted: 20 May 2022 at 17:11 |
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So Steve, locking bolt made and functional. I'm tackling the rear first and I've hit a hurdle straight away. I cannot for the life of me loosen the rear cam chain tensioner, it just won't budge. According to the manual it is only torqued to 20Nm so age must have got to it. Did you hit that problem / any thoughts / what tool did you use? It's soaking in WD40 at the moment but I'm not convinced that will make any difference! Also, when removing the cam holder on the rear do you need to disassemble and remove the balancer shaft first or just lift it away complete while still in the cam holder? |
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Stevex
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Posted: 20 May 2022 at 19:00 |
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Ray, I had no problem removing the tensioner cap but it is sealed by a copper washer that'll need replacing. I used a 3/8" drive hex headed socket; I can only suggest a t bar and extension to crack it off.
Looking at my tensioner cap now, the copper washer is quite thick maybe 1.5-2mm. If it was me I would (very carefully) get a 24tpi hacksaw blade and cut through the copper as far as possible then use a thin flat headed screw driver the knock the washer out. hopefully that will relieve the cap, or at least you can get some release agent into the threads. The balancer assembly needs dis assembling, from memory, which isn't brilliant, the balancer assembly has one or two cam cap retaining bolts under it. Make sure you mark the balancer so it goes back in the correct position. Do you have access to the RSV Engine Manual? It has exact instructions on the head removal, which includes the balancer removal / refit etc. If you pm me your email address I can send you part 1 of the manual which has the info you need in it. It would be a good idea to read this first, I've just had a look at it and it reminded me there is a key locating the balancer. You're a premium member, so it should be available to you via the forum; the manual you need is 00-2001-11_RSV_Engine_Manual_Sections_0-1-2-3-4. Look at Chap 4, Para 4.7.
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People say I don't know Jack Sh1t; but I do, he lives next door.
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legend88
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Posted: 20 May 2022 at 20:45 |
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Cheers Steve, good shout trying to cut the washer out first. It really is in super tight, just don't want to risk rounding out the internal hex! Re the balancer, it just looked like it might lift out in one go with the cam holder but obviously not. Yes. I've downloaded the manual and will take another look. It's for the Gen2 but not much difference to my Gen1 other than the cam position sensor on the front cylinder. Thanks for looking up the relevant bits. On the front cylinder, any reason for removing the exhaust cam sprocket rather than intake as the intake has easier access. Was it because it's further away from the tensioner? EDIT: The only engine manual I can find is the Gen2 one 00/2003-10. Can you give me a link to the one you reference please?
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Stevex
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Posted: 22 May 2022 at 18:17 |
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Ray, I havent got a link to the manual, it's on my lap top.
PM me you email address and I'll send it to you. Front cylinder...honestly can't remember why I went for the exhaust sprocket, can't see removing the intake one being a problem. |
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People say I don't know Jack Sh1t; but I do, he lives next door.
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legend88
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Posted: 19 Jul 2022 at 16:56 |
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Thanks for your help Steve. All done by the way, and I only had to remove the cams from the rear cylinder which was a bonus. Also whilst I removed the balancer shaft gear, I removed the rest complete as part of the housing as it seemed easier than disturbing seals, bearings etc. |
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