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GEN 2 RSVR Willinto learn mods topic
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Willintolearn View Drop Down
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Finally got round to riser plates:




Also changed the fixings over to stainless A2-70.
I now get about 17mm more foot room and only lose about 10 to 12mm leg room.
I have also rotated the clip-ons further forward & the combination means I can ride for about 3 hours and get off relatively able to move my aged hips.
Yes! There will be some de-burring and painting…dunno when but it could happen.
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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Some more
Removed useless bobbins as my rear paddock stand was too narrow.
Fitted short bolt and spacer through back of shark fin.
Modified rear paddock stand cups - cut down and drilled for captive high tensile screws. M6 stainless button head screws fitted after stand use - to preserve thread.
Cut larger hole around cover under bottom yoke and removed one cover bolt - to enable my Micron front stand to fit.
Bent side stand prong so as to fall in the gap between gear lever and footrest.
And here’s some pretty pictures to prove it - don’t ask about the side stand captive puck - I don’t know where it came from and I haven’t shortened the through-bolts yet but, I did have to trim the belly pan to suit it:












Some of this will get tidied up and de-rusted…..at some stage.
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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BACK-TRACKING……….

Removed footrest jack up plates (plenty comfortable but boots were hard to move on more-steeply angled footrest serrations)

Removed dual check valve from clutch - reverted to single, as standard (I rarely get out of 3rd gear on my ‘fun’ roads, so don’t have to bang down the ‘box more than a gear - it did work well, when I tried it, but my riding just doesn’t warrant it)

Refitted inlet flap - the PCIII was set up with it fitted - removing it created an unwanted flat-spot.

Fitted clear screen.
Removed clear screen (piece of Ama*on Ch*nese sh*t)
Refitted dark screen

Replaced rear brake clevis bush with a stainless bolt in a copper bush (the original aluminium one had broken and was only located on one side)

Fitted additional heat sink fins to reg/rec (planning to replace it with a MOSFET one in the near future)

Got an MOT

3 steps backwards, 1 step forwards eh?
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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I’ve been there and done that on a few bikes.
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Fitted the Carmo series CARR5925-SERIE MOSFET reg/rec - temporarily wired in as I’m still waiting for the right connectors:
…which gives a steady 14:06V at tickover - with lights on:
…indicated somewhat differently on the dash:
As a bonus I made a heatsink for the rear brake cylinder:
Not sure if it works as it’s cold today & the pads need deglazing.

Next:
My own cobbled-up T12 stator cooling set-up.
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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Reg/rec take 2
Made a bracket and mounted it under the seat.
Proper connectors arrived and wired via a 30A fuse.
Had to relocate tip-over switch and 2 x 30A fuse holder.
Once complete it would not start - large oops moment - I had mounted the tip-over switch upside down on its new bracket grrrrr. Now getting 14.4 V with lights off at tickover.

Now for the poor-man’s T12 stator cooling:
Drilled the 24x1.5 hydraulic blank @ 30 degrees - only broke one 2mm drill bit in the process but got there in the end. The other side I drilled and tapped m6 in readiness for the dowty/hose tail banjo which is due next Friday.
The blank fitted like a charm - new viton seal fitted and the orientation of the oil spray is at about 12 o’clock.
I dropped the oil tank and cut the cooler hose to fit the 12x6x12 reducing tee.
Ran the stator cooling hose ‘s’ shaped upto the fan then cable tied it into fairing bracket and down to the clutch slave, blanked it off so that it’s all ready to go when the fitting arrives.
Total cost of this set up is about £23 - well worth if it saves the stator.









Anyone want an OEM reg/rec with optional fins - ideal for toast :-)
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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Finished though may change the zpp bolt to a stainless button head that I’ve drilled.
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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And so it goes on:
Checked for oil leaks after the above stator cooling mod - all dry.
Removed top yoke and electrical part of ignition switch- found that the ball bearings were stuck so freed those then cleaned all the contacts - all showed signs of light scoring - and re tensioned the contact springs.
Set forks in yokes to 4 rings showing - in an effort to speed up the steering to - somewhere near - my 7R
Removed puck from side stand.
Next:
Drop rear ride height by 2mm - if reducing the front makes it a bit lairy.
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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Finally got the carbon fibre ‘birds beak’ refitted - courtesy of some blue Peter ally brackets, self tappers and hot glue, doesn’t look too bad, if I say so myself:



Forgive the grubby state - I’ve had to use it in place of the car which, funnily enough, decided to cook its alternator.
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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ANOTHER REVERSAL

Removed headlight on timer and replaced it with a discrete switch.
Unless you’re prepared to fiddle about with diodes it just ain’t worth the bother.
Lesson learned.
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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Ok ok ok ok - the reg rec saga continues…..
It now resides under the left hand side of the tail unit - had to lop a bit of the unit off for it to fit and to aid cooling:
.
She do look pretty though:
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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Further pictures of reg/rec, discreet light switch, ally washers & stainless banjo bolt on stator cooling also brackets for cable ties for the PC3:
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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…yet another reversed reversal:
Back to dual one-way valves. But this time with a 3rd tee so that the flapper still works.
Reason:
Fed up with wearing my glove fingers out - the mod does make the clutch a tad lighter.

For the aesthetes: it still looks like a birds nest (though slighter better than before) hence no pics.

Out of interest I took one of the failed one-way valves apart - it was gummed up with a light oily fuel vapour type residue - so I got the other ‘failed’ one and flushed it out….voila:it now works. I used 3-in-1 spray so, I guess WD40 should work too.
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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Fuel filters & not before time. 9978 miles & 19 years old.
Drained the tank using the pressure relief hose.
No water nor debris in the tank.
Sorry AP & Aprilia but I’m on a strict budget…..
Sourced a Bosch filter & replacement Oetiker clips and got stuck in, used a stainless steel jubilee clip for the ground.
Washed and dried the tea bag - plenty of varnish present.
Cut the old OEM filter apart and found it to be filthy - there was a bit of resistance when blowing through it so, it looks like I caught it just in time.
Total spend - less than £19 (for 10 clips + the jubilee + the filter) and the handy thing is the fuel filter is a fairly common one. It’s actually the same one that’s fitted to my car.
The only draw-back is that the fuel circuit took an age to prime from dry - due to the higher volume required to fill the new larger filter.
Fired it up then carried out a full service. Now I just need a dry day or two.
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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Coolant change…..
OAT -38C replacing original OEM stuff - bleed and drain screws on radiator had not been touched (still covered in original paint - to the extent that a 5mm Allen key would not fit).
Prior to change - stationary - fans would come on at 98 and the temp would rise to 105, before dropping to 95 when fans stopped.
After change - stationary - fans on at 96 and temp only rose to 98, before dropping to 94 when fans stopped.
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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Plans:
Replace jubilee and hose clips on stator cooling banjo and oil cooler tee with Oetiker clips - handy as I’ve managed to slightly overfill the oil, and I’ve got loads of the right size clips left over from the fuel filter change.
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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Your fuel filter look pristine compared to what my Gen 1 Tuono's looked like after I replaced it! I started to get slight hesitation at higher revs which was why I replaced it. Glad I did as I found the sealant around the pump wiring starting to break up, so repaired that too.
People say I don't know Jack Sh1t; but I do, he lives next door.
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Tanks a bunch!
Swollen and didn’t sit well onto the AP Airbox kit seal.
Took the 8mm head/M6 bolts out of the seat hoop/rear tank bracket, and countersunk the holes.
Took the 2 part AP Airbox kit seal apart - heated both with a hot-air gun then sandwiched them and weighted them down to flatten while they cooled.
Refitted the seals arranged so that it curved upwards.
Opened up the tank pivot bolt slots rearwards, to 20mm, then refitted the bracket with countersunk screws - now flush fitting.
Reassembled the whole and now the tank sits lower and slightly further back.
Just hoping that sorts it.
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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Originally posted by Stevex Stevex wrote:

Your fuel filter look pristine compared to what my Gen 1 Tuono's looked like after I replaced it! I started to get slight hesitation at higher revs which was why I replaced it. Glad I did as I found the sealant around the pump wiring starting to break up, so repaired that too.
Stone me - that’s filthy.
When mine had dried it just had discolouration due to the varnish - similar to that on the teabag and more noticeable on its outlet end.
Oh well, if nothing else at least I’ve got a new filter on now and I had a chance to inspect the inside of the tank.
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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Bleeding bleeding rear brake…
What a flippin faff.
Approximately 20mL of air stuck in rear calliper - yes I removed it from the torque arm to suspend it from the man cave roof, jammed the pads with an Allen key then pumped the pedal and wedged a spanner between it, the footrest and the bottom of the clutch housing.
Left it pumped up for maybe 15 minutes then tapped the calliper then let the air out. Repeated same until a good pedal pressure was gained.
Replaced spanner wedging the pedal down for now.
Made clamp to hold clutch lever in slightly - following the advice of ‘Make wood good’ (supplier of EPDM clutch slave seals).
Unexciting photos may follow.
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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Second clutch slave cylinder seal.
The last one was fitted September ’22 (the first thing I did after purchase) but I didn’t use silicon lube.
That’ll teach me.
Old seal was rigid and ridged.
Definitely not a heat issue - having drilled the carrier and spaced the cylinder off by using washers. Heat transfer from the push rod is unlikely too as that seal was as new.
Bore was nice and smooth too.
Suspect it’s down to lack of use.
Maybe Santa will buy me an Oberon - courtesy of AP? Mind you, those seals are £30 a pop.
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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Originally posted by Willintolearn Willintolearn wrote:

Third mod - work around:
I suspect the PC3 USB was set up with the redline at the default 6000 rpm.

Having now set the redline to 10500 rpm I found that there was a chasm of a dip at 6000 rpm……after a short learning session on the Dynojet site I checked the (now) mid-range fuelling and found it to be very rich****so dialled it back by 2 steps, result: very minor dip at around 6000 rpm and able to pull through it easily. I am hoping that 1 more step off the PC3 midrange will eradicate the dip completely.
Anybody else experienced this?

I can’t see that there’s anything else influencing this as the bike pulls smoothly from 2000 rpm to the (now) red line at 10500.
…….
Gotcha - you basket - a simple (vape) smoke test revealed the culprit to be the AP Airbox lid seal (after 19/20 years) not conforming to the tank under pressure - probably due to tank swelling, mostly.
I reformed the seal, reinforced it with 2 x 5mm neo sheet then forced the tank down and then repeated the vape test - no leaks - all that’s left is to reset the PCIII (which I had made 8% richer***)……when I find my notes re: button/range adjustment…..now, where the h*ll have I put them….TBC.

As a bonus: made a disk-lock stowing bracket and repositioned the alarm - both now, sensibly, under the pillion cover hump.

*** yes - I know - I got my rich & leans mixed up - easy thing to do when you’ve never dabbled with DJ PC before - apologies to those in the know……. :-)
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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DJ PCIII notes (on here because paper scribbles - apparently - don’t last more than couple of years):
All 3 buttons down 
Start - button setting mode
Select ‘MID’ & read value
Tap twice
Stop
Wait 5 mins
Back into setting mode
Check ‘MID’ value has been set
If good - stop
If not - do it again.
etc……

Or maybe I’ll make a 9V battery jumper connection….tbc.
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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Points: 3485 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wigginsjp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Mar 2025 at 06:51
Excellent work 

And great to see you’re still doing stuff with the set backs. 

Interesting stuff ref the airbox vape test. I used to like the evo mod previously but switched back to the std airbox lid on the v2’s for concerns over dirt ingress. 

As for PC3 dabbling I’d not even know where to start. 

Good skills 
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Originally posted by wigginsjp wigginsjp wrote:

Excellent work 

And great to see you’re still doing stuff with the set backs. 

Interesting stuff ref the airbox vape test. I used to like the evo mod previously but switched back to the std airbox lid on the v2’s for concerns over dirt ingress. 

As for PC3 dabbling I’d not even know where to start. 

Good skills 

Thanks for those kind words - I just couldn’t bring myself to refit the lid - it’s mapped without and the rooooaaar would be missed.

I also figured that, if it’s mapped without the lid then who am I to mess about with it, I love it’s scalded cat response as it is - I have been told to ‘potter about’ prior to surgery so the old ape is getting lots of TLC - it gives me something to aim for during recovery, too.

Actually the DJ PCIII appears to be quite ‘easy’ to understand so I think a jumper lead and a USD download onto a laptop should be relatively easy to do - then I can have a closer look at the maps for each cylinder.
Odd setup though as it’s got twin Acros and a standard air filter + the AP ‘lid off’ mod, as well as the flapper still fitted.

Next is a full brake service, DOT 5.1 and an inspection of the pads - the rear ones are low and I’m thinking of trying Goldfrens - anyone one else tried these? - I had them on the 7R and, to my mind they were good enough.

I will also treat it to lashings of ACF 50, as some of the fixings are getting furry.
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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By the way - ill fitting tank/airbox seal symptoms - more than likely due to demon ethanol making the tank grow (in my experience)

1. Down curved seal around the filter/headstock end with a dusty appearance
2. ‘Will it or won’t it’ hesitation around 2800 to 3000 rpm
3. Stumble at 6000 rpm that has to be powered through 
…..just in case anyone else is experiencing problems out of the blue.

Cure:

2 x adhesive backed neoprene sheets 5mm thick stuck to each other then - after wiping the old seal thoroughly with petrol, stuck to the top of the old seal - cut the centre out to just fit over the AP frame and, about 10mm to 12mm oversize all the way around - also cut the outer front so as to just be inside the margins of the tank (straight across the front just in line with frame bump).
You will have to force the tank down and the front bolts will be a struggle to fit.
I suspect that lifting the tank afterwards may be a bit difficult, too…TBC.
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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Willintolearn View Drop Down
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Points: 169 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Mar 2025 at 13:12
Loud as f**k alarm - home made heavily disguised and only showing the wiring for the ignition killer.
Also unfinished (gash bit of ally) disc lock park.
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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Points: 169 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Apr 2025 at 12:50
Slight misalignment issue & a nice opportunity to use my shiny new breaker bar


Only half a mark out…..not bad.
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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Points: 3485 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wigginsjp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 2025 at 17:46
Originally posted by Willintolearn Willintolearn wrote:

Slight misalignment issue & a nice opportunity to use my shiny new breaker bar


Only half a mark out…..not bad.



Dare I ask how the breaker bar went in ? 
Also how is the alarm going other than looking like either an IED or you’re smuggling a decent kilo of something. 
Does it drain the battery much ? 
Aprilia RSVR Factory 2007 V2 1060cc Big Bore
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Points: 169 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 2025 at 19:47
I needed the breaker bar as I only weigh 60kg, currently as week as a kitten and an axle nut at a torque of 100 Nm + is just too much.

The alarm is stand alone but recharges when it’s on standby when the engine runs so, no drain & it was covered up to allow the potting compound to set….it does look a bit dodgy though.

Re: battery - coincidentally I have just taken the (newish) battery off for charging as it had dipped down to below 12V, having not been used since last November - it’s taking a flipping age to get up to 50% charge so, it’s looking like I’ll have to invest in a Lithium one sooner rather then later :-(

EDIT: the battery survived after a 15 hour charge. This gives me a chance to fit charging leads and LEDs for the coolant and rear brake reservoirs but, not today……
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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