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GEN 2 RSVR Willinto learn mods topic

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Willintolearn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan 2023 at 18:33
Question:
I have left the line to the solenoid valve AP8127176 
connected with a one- way valve in the end of it and drawn a vacuum on it too.
Is it a 28 ohm resistor that I need to fit across its connections so that I can do away with it?
Thanks in advance.

Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan 2023 at 17:31
…28 ohms it was. Made a plug-in module so, easily reversed. Original solenoid measured at 27.6 ohms, in case anybody needs to know.
Weight saving: solenoid and associated pipe work + one one-way valve removed.
Next:
Revisit dual one-way valve set up and tidy it up.
Not quite so interesting:
Alarm fitted - uses its own power source - so no parasitic losses, thank you. And: weight gained :-(
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb 2023 at 16:04
200A solenoid fitting.
It’s a big beast:
Used a top-hat insulator on the left (having decided to leave the new solenoid isolated from the frame):
And a countersunk on the right:
Had to re-route the battery cable open up the holes to 8.5mm and connect fore and aft:
Final install:

Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ziskar364 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb 2023 at 23:05
Nice mod with the solenoid. Do you have the part number or a link to buy one like this.
Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb 2023 at 17:47
https://simplysplitcharge.co.uk/Solenoids/12V-Solenoids/12v-200a-heavy-duty-solenoid-1023334136.html

Just be aware that the terminals are bigger so, you’ll have to open up the ring terminal holes.
You’ll also find that the standard (undersized) cables really need replacing too. I’m going to go to 35mm squared. Splitcharge also sell cable and terminals, too.
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Mar 2023 at 16:21
Next modifications:

1. Relocate solenoid to horn/radiator bracket (done)
2. Make up 35mm2 power leads (done)
3. Remove old power leads
4. Extend solenoid wiring to horn bracket
5. Add headlight cut timer to relay circuit for starting with lights off
6. Make up aluminium battery to power lead right-angled straps 
7. Remake 30A + feeds
8. Probably buy an upgrade 14 AH battery too.

…..Will (no pun intended) this ever end?
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Mar 2023 at 15:54
All mods now done
35mm sq. cables
Solenoid relocated
Fairing duct cut down
Aluminium bus bars fitted - allows separation of both 30A feeds - easier to isolate circuits
Timer fitted - wired to allow easy reversal, should it fail - set to 33 seconds delay before headlights come on









Slight snag: am pretty sure the battery is sha**ed. Not too sure about the starter motor, either.

Next steps:
Remove starter motor and give it the once-over and test it on the car battery.
Replace battery - I suspect it’s 8 years old so, I can’t complain….just a shame all these faults have occurred at the same time.
Verdict: ape wiring is shocking (forgive the pun) - I have never seen so many dodgy practices - tight routing, exposed conductors and down-rated/sized wires…..to name but a few.
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Apr 2023 at 12:53
All done.
Nothing wrong with starter motor. I may give it a once-over shortly: check the state of the brushes, bearings and commutator as I suspect it’s lead a hard life with having to deal with the old - under sized- cables.
Changed battery to Fulbat FTZ-14S, 11.8 Ah with 230CCA, had to make a foam pad for it to sit on as it’s 20mm shorter.
The old battery was 8 years old so it had done well but, not as well as my old 7R battery which was 11 years old.
Rather satisfyingly the odometer did not reset when the battery was swapped out which bodes well for the mileage to actually be correct. I thought it always reset to zero.
Result:
Press button & instant starting + after a bit, the lights come on: neat.
Next: reset clock & rev limiter light (again) then eliminate embarrassing chicken strips.
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote badapple Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Apr 2023 at 15:48
Originally posted by Willintolearn Willintolearn wrote:

All done.
Nothing wrong with starter motor. I may give it a once-over shortly: check the state of the brushes, bearings and commutator as I suspect it’s lead a hard life with having to deal with the old - under sized- cables.
Changed battery to Fulbat FTZ-14S, 11.8 Ah with 230CCA, had to make a foam pad for it to sit on as it’s 20mm shorter.
The old battery was 8 years old so it had done well but, not as well as my old 7R battery which was 11 years old.
Rather satisfyingly the odometer did not reset when the battery was swapped out which bodes well for the mileage to actually be correct. I thought it always reset to zero.
Result:
Press button & instant starting + after a bit, the lights come on: neat.
Next: reset clock & rev limiter light (again) then eliminate embarrassing chicken strips.

Great news mate. A note on the re set it should only do it if you leave the key in the ignition. You did do the correct battery fitting sequence I hope or your new battery will be toast by tomorrow. 
I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Apr 2023 at 16:19
Originally posted by badapple badapple wrote:


Great news mate. A note on the re set it should only do it if you leave the key in the ignition. You did do the correct battery fitting sequence I hope or your new battery will be toast by tomorrow. 

Disconnect battery:
Start at the ground
Reconnect battery:
Finish at the ground

Apart from that - I remember open collector rules…..not that anyone uses transistors anymore.

Thanks, though.
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote badapple Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Apr 2023 at 23:21
Originally posted by Willintolearn Willintolearn wrote:

Originally posted by badapple badapple wrote:


Great news mate. A note on the re set it should only do it if you leave the key in the ignition. You did do the correct battery fitting sequence I hope or your new battery will be toast by tomorrow. 

Disconnect battery:
Start at the ground
Reconnect battery:
Finish at the ground

Apart from that - I remember open collector rules…..not that anyone uses transistors anymore.

Thanks, though.
I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote badapple Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Apr 2023 at 23:25
Key on don't start 
Wait 30 seconds ( set clock shift light)
Key off
Key on
Start 
All good 
If you don't do this the ape goes into a weird battery drain mode

Job done 

I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr 2023 at 09:20
Originally posted by badapple badapple wrote:

Key on don't start 
Wait 30 seconds ( set clock shift light)
Key off
Key on
Start 
All good 
If you don't do this the ape goes into a weird battery drain mode

Job done 


I was not aware of this……what’s the root cause, is it a weird software issue?

And thanks again.
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr 2023 at 15:55
After the mild panic caused by the above…..and having now reset the shift light and the clock….all is good - no goosed battery and right-hand chicken strip given what for.
Gentle jog out to Box Hill - no other RSV2s, no 7Rs & too many hardly-movinsons but, hey, whatever rings your bell.
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote badapple Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr 2023 at 17:15
It's a strange voltage drain that the gen2 has. I don't know the reason but it puts the bike into a mode which destroys a brand new battery in a day! Once you know this it's no big deal and also dispells the myth of the re set bolox. I've tested it on a gen2 that had already re set so I know it works. Pleased I saved your battery after all the effort you have put in. 
I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr 2023 at 20:03
This being the case - I can state that I didn’t do the start bit until the following day (eek) but have got away with it.
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote badapple Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr 2023 at 21:45
Originally posted by Willintolearn Willintolearn wrote:

This being the case - I can state that I didn’t do the start bit until the following day (eek) but have got away with it.

Thumbs Up  all good then. Have to say I'm very impressed by your upgrades will be trouble free riding with the electrical " quirks " taken care of. 
I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr 2023 at 22:25
Originally posted by badapple badapple wrote:

Originally posted by Willintolearn Willintolearn wrote:

This being the case - I can state that I didn’t do the start bit until the following day (eek) but have got away with it.

Thumbs Up  all good then. Have to say I'm very impressed by your upgrades will be trouble free riding with the electrical " quirks " taken care of. 

Thanks, I am now used to it starting before I’ve let the button go….long may it stay that way.
Having to cut down the fairing scoop seems to have reduced the temperature too, didn’t once go over 82C and the frame is cooler on that side….summer will be the real proof, I guess.
Next: service then ride the cogs off it. Think I’ll do the fuel filters too.
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2023 at 17:08
While I’m on a roll.
Removed and blanked flapper.
Removed carbon fibre duct - ‘twas loose and was rubbing on the paintwork.



Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wigginsjp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2023 at 17:50
Should the duct not have a bracket that supports it? 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2023 at 19:17
Probably did have….all bodged and cut/snapped off and was just hanging.
Better gone, IMO.
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2023 at 16:14
Yet more mods:

I carried out a full service today and discovered that the air filter frame was not holding the front of the element down - it was able to lift clear of the bottom of the air box - 2 aluminium brackets later and that’s that fixed. No pictures until I’ve tidied them up…..I hang my head in shame ;-)

I also found that the magnetic engine drain plug had no washer on it - luckily I had one left over from a Jaguar/Ford steering pump that fitted :-)

I also tidied up the dual one-way clutch valve hoses - the one from the front cylinder was kinked so a bit of rerouting and a shorter silicone hose has done away the faint hiss that I could hear when the lever was pulled - no pictures of this either - due to it being a bit of a birds nest :-(

I also made up a wooden block - from 2 chair leg off-cuts - to wedge in between the rear cylinder and the fuel pump flange - yet again no pictures as my carpentry is, at best, comical :-(
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wigginsjp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2023 at 16:54
I lockwired the front of the air filter flange once for someone who didn’t have the additional bar across the evo box kit. 

Also what’s the wooden chair bits for to wedge between the base of the fuel pump and rear rocker do?? I look forward to comical pics 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2023 at 18:47
Originally posted by wigginsjp wigginsjp wrote:

I lockwired the front of the air filter flange once for someone who didn’t have the additional bar across the evo box kit. 

Also what’s the wooden chair bits for to wedge between the base of the fuel pump and rear rocker do?? I look forward to comical pics 

The chair bits prop the tank up - far more sturdy than the standard prop.
I will post comical pics when I have, at least, smartened things up. Think I’ll paint the wood in aprilia colours…..no, maybe not;-)
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 May 2023 at 16:10
Here you go:

Look at those HUGE battery cables:



Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 May 2023 at 16:16
Plus- I found out that the clocks were replaced, under warranty, at 2200 miles…..not the end of the world.
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wigginsjp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 May 2023 at 16:17
Nice! 
That’s much better 

Going to patent the chair legs with the a logo ? 😆
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 May 2023 at 16:26
Originally posted by wigginsjp wigginsjp wrote:

Nice! Tongue
That’s much better 

Going to patent the chair legs with the a logo ? 😆

a is for against the tank……I feel a patent coming on - I may even notch the block to avoid contact with the fuel banjo - that could be the ‘super deluxe’ upgraded version.
You saw it here first 
Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve750 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 May 2023 at 17:14
Originally posted by Willintolearn Willintolearn wrote:

While I’m on a roll.
Removed and blanked flapper.
Removed carbon fibre duct - ‘twas loose and was rubbing on the paintwork.

What's the flapper mod that you've done mate?






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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 May 2023 at 21:22
Originally posted by Steve750 Steve750 wrote:

Originally posted by Willintolearn Willintolearn wrote:

While I’m on a roll.
Removed and blanked flapper.
Removed carbon fibre duct - ‘twas loose and was rubbing on the paintwork.

What's the flapper mod that you've done mate?

Disconnected the vacuum hose, removed electric solenoid, fitted a 28 ohm resistor in place then disassembled the air intake and removed the vacuum solenoid with the arm and flap.

Years of the big K then an Ape - one with twin Akras, AP air box mod, twin NRVs, 42t rear sprocket, great big 12V cables, 200A solenoid, 40A MOSFET r/r + headlight switch + stator cooling + PCIII map.
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