Ho hum, won't start

Sorry, should have posted in the tech area

NO!!! there is one more, forgot this one even though I fixed this on a mates RSVR....

OEM immoboliser, in the LH fairing at the front bolted to the inner fairing.  Has 7 wires in it....will cause alsorts of dashboard indications and a bike that runs/doesn't run....should read your post: all weather.!!

Its a sealed box, but the connections where the cables go in and are soldered onto the encapsulated PCB corrode and short out a bit.

Its fixable, but you need to expose the solder so you need to gently open it up, boths sides of the PCB about 5mm in from the edge.  Resoldering the cables is all you need to do, then reseal with rubber gunk (bathroom sealant!)

This is my number one for your problem...everything else in last post comes after this.

If your not sure how to fix it.....send it to me and I'll do it for free.  PM if you think its this.

stock immob for me.  Thing is you cant tell by looking at it.....but it is so common a failure.

Not sure about the canbus theory.  I've had an 04 fac since 2006, racked up miles, had most problems you see on the forums, and this one just smacks of the stock immob.

The only thing I cant put my finger on is the err indication.  Coupled with all the other dash issues I would say you might have a dash issue, but that would not stop the bike running.  I had a dash problem where I lost indications and the rev counter was weird, but the bike still ran sweet.  I changed the dash and that was fixed for me.  The dash is only an output and is not linked to the immob or the ECU as an input. 

My mate has the gen2 rsvr 2003 and had issues just like yours...weird dash things, bike runs, bike stops....etc etc  it was the stock immob which I sorted out inside an hour.

Anyways....if your not sure, send it to me and I'll try it on my bike...if it causes issues I'll resolder it and reseal it.

Look at the dash immob light when the key is out.  Is it a clean pulsed blip or is the immob light dim between flashes....or just on all the time?

Thanks for this guys. I'm a bloody electronics engineer but it doesn't seem to be helping. Went rooting and found these links.(see below) It's all as clear as mud - is the immobiliser on the CAN lines? - dunno, opinion seems divided. The circuit  diagrams are crap. All I can hear at the moment is that when I turn the key back off I get a brief, quiet purr from the dash unit.

Cheers mate

Thanks Spoonz. Been reading instead of working this morning, and I learned stuff. For instance I now may understand why two wires to my immobiliser appear to have been cut once upon a time......

The Tuono has the immobilisor built into the dash as far as i know

Edited by Spoonz - 17 Sep 2012 at 21:18

They rarely show any external issues, just naff internal joints.

You dont have to reveal so much of the PCB, just enough to get to the solder points.
You may also have to gently scrape away the black stuff from the other side of the PCB.
The reason for this is when you solder, hot gases in the solder will try to pop through the solder you are using to resolder the wire onto the pcb.  This makes a bad solder joint.  If you scrape away the black stuff from the wire side, it gives hot gases another route out, making the soldering much better.

Just be careful you dont damage the wires when you scrape.

Fianl tip, and you'll probably know this, use leaded solder.  Dont use that ROHS lead free crap.  Its more brittle and may develope a thing called 'tin whiskers' over time, that grow and short out the wires.  Look it up on the net.  I work in an industry where we have control systems that have developed this strange thing, its only since our repair contractors started using lead free solder a few years back.

Anyway....your almost there!

scoffey wrote: Well lads, the damn immobiliser looks good inside. Solder joints are bright and neat, and when checked with a meter they're good. Will check them under a glass tmow, but my gut tells me they're good.(I've seen a lot of solder joints.) So no joy there. I pulled the ecu connectors, and dash still just gives the same out - triangle, side-stand light, no neutral and 'err'. At this stage I think its the dash.

Reckon it's the key switch. No power switching to ECU pin 36, no power switching to immobiliser. Got some power going to dash obviously, but none out to the above. There's an upper wire from the barrel to an AMP  two way, and a lower to a white six-way. The white has 12V available, but not switching through.  Anyone familiar with the switch arrangement - the bloody diagram is impossbile to read.

That was the wine speaking last night. I'm going to start again from scratch. First thing, how many ground points are there and where are they?

A bit of progress at last. It seems the keyswitch is at fault. Its switching on two of its three poles, but not the one that switches power to the immobiliser and the ecu.

stevezx7r wrote: Could be that your just "hot wiring" the bike and missing the real problem?

stevezx7r wrote: If you know a decent auto lecky I'd take it to them to have sorted before you make things worse....done it myself, many times ;)