Rearsets

this might be completely impractical, but would a thumb rear brake lever set up help?

If not, I'll get me coat?

Thumb lever not a bad thought, just didn’t want to spend anything really if was a way to adjust the setup currently on bike

Can you shorten the push rod, there’s usually a small amount of adjustment but I’m like you and like the pedal lower and usually run out of adjustment so I use a shorter rod, if you can’t do that a small bracket to move the mc up, a few companies make adjustable toe pegs.

I also like the b/ pedal lower , so I cut the rod to where I needed it and re profiled it , perfect , just be careful if too much is taken off it might fall out of the cylinder then it can be adjusted on the rod thread.Griff even gave me a thumbs up when I did it Big smile

I actually had the same issue a few days ago,I had to reposition my pegs due to to fitting the full length carbon belly pan which meant I had to fabricate new rear support brackets.

That accomplished I had to move the pegs slightly to clear so I decided to take the opportunity to move the brake lever from the present position where I was always conscious of resting my foot on it.

Given I have limited mobility in my right ankle due to historic injuries I moved the pedal to a more comfortable position just underneath the level of the lower of the frame mounts by shortening the push rod by a few m/m,there is still enough threaded adjustment to raise the unit back to it's previous height if I ever wanted to do it however.

The only issue then was the upper cam stop was no good so it was only the cylinder rubber boot holding the pushrod in place, I got round this by replacing the lower frame mounting caphead with a longer one complete with a couple of thick washers reduced in dia slightly to fit and a locknut.

The new,longer caphead is fitted in position for it's head to act as a lever top stop and the nut then tightened to locate the rearset mount to the frame.

The washers (or a spacer) are needed to fill the machined c/bore in the mount as a standard nut is too large a dia. to fit.

Now I have no fears of inadvertently applying pressure to the rear brake when riding but can still effectively lock the rear wheel if needed.

www.apworkshops.co.uk
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www.apriliaownersclub.co.uk

Looking forward to the next track day

IanG wrote:

The only issue then was the upper cam stop was no good so it was only the cylinder rubber boot holding the pushrod in place, I got round this by replacing the lower frame mounting caphead with a longer one complete with a couple of thick washers reduced in dia slightly to fit and a locknut.

The new,longer caphead is fitted in position for it's head to act as a lever top stop and the nut then tightened to locate the rearset mount to the frame..

This is how I did my stop with the additional cap head bolt fastened in place with locktight and a flat filed onto the head at the height needed to stop the pedal where required:

IanG wrote:

Same principle , different hole LOL

I'll take a pic when I go out later

snowman wrote:

Yeh, mine is nowhere near the stop bolt but never had a problem ?? So far Shocked

So far! As you say, Shocked

It would really be worthwhile getting that sorted. As Ian says the only thing holding the rod into the master cylinder otherwise is the rubber boot. You don't want to find out that it's dropped out as you hit the brake! Although many don't touch the back brake anyway of course.

Pic as was

Pic now adjusted, although when pushed up rod appears to stay in place think will do similar for peace of mind!