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Weird ignition key problem?
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RSV_Ecosse View Drop Down
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    Posted: 14 Jun 2013 at 14:46
Folks, I've found recently that if I put the key into the ignition and turn it to the right to switch on sometimes (maybe 3 out of 5 attempts) nothing happens when the key is fully home over to the right side. No power, nothing on the dash.

However if I gently nudge it back towards the off/left position by just a few tiny mm, the dash pops into life and I can start the bike. Once started if I try and cut the power by nudging it right again it doesn't, thankfully. So I'm not concerned with it possibly cutting out with vibration or bumps in the road when riding. It's just bloody annoying!!. 

Any thoughts as to why it's doing this and/or suggestions on how to fix it if there is indeed a 'fix' of sorts?. 

Ta. Smile

2000RSV - Lots of carbon tat - Hopeless wobbler onboard
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you may be able to replace just the electrical black part and loom and keep the same lock on top , sounds like theres a dodgy contact?  the 2 parts do seperate but are not available seperately to buy so its good old ebay ...item 4 below obviously ha ha ,2 screws and small plastic tab hold it together ..not sure if you can gain access to the contacts to clean/repair them?

RSV 1000 2000 ~ Lock hardware kit
 


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Cool, cheers dude. I'll look into that. Wondering if it will just be a clean/squirt with electrical contact cleaner or if something is actually worn inside?.

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If they're anything like cars then they do fall apart over time,Audi's are very prone to it.
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Bumping this thread back up again guys - Yesterday on a short run out I was bimbling down the motorway at about 70ish mph and decided to move into the overtaking lane to pass a bus. Opened the throttle and moved out and about level with the bus the bike completely died on me and the dash went blank like the ignition had been turned off. I reached down and moved the key slightly and the bike suddenly burst back into life and began accelerating again (much to my bloody surprise!). 

That's the third time its done that in as many months. What should I be checking? It's completely random, after it does it the bike can run for miles without an issue. Reckon its related to the key thing I initially posted about?

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Must be, worth a 2 minute look at the main 30A fuses under the seattoo though....
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Originally posted by JayB JayB wrote:


Must be, worth a 2 minute look at the main 30A fuses under the seattoo though....


Would they have something to do with the problem m8?

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Definitely sounds like it's a worn ignition barrel, for it to jump back into life just by turning the key slightly sounds like it just bump started itself again once you made a circuit on the ignition side of life again
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Had the same thing on my ex track bike, took a long time to track it down after the thing tried to have me off several times. Coming out of a fast corner (always a right hander) the bike would die a second after getting back on the throttle. Ended up going keyless to fix it but trust me, you don't need it coming off a corner at any sort of pace!

Sorry I can't be any more helpful then that.  Tongue
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Points: 792 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote twintorque Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb 2015 at 23:22
almost certainly the switch if jiggling the key cured it, I'd source a decent full lock set and replace the ignition switch...as mentioned, mid corner cutout on a big twin zipping along could be treacherous
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Points: 200 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JayB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Feb 2015 at 09:25
I have had a fuse / wiring problem on a bike, used to cut out hitting humps in the road or like where you have cable dug in the road.
Thought it was the ignition that time too, yours probably is if it jiggling sorts it I guess.
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Mine very similar, last couple of years the rear light doesn't always come on,(always damp winter months) and now the dash is dead, until I mess with the key, but now also refuses to start (spins ok) again until I've messed with the key.
Pain in the neck with the immobiliser as not just a straight swap.
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I've done a search and I see mention of people cleaning, lubing and 'stretching the spring' inside the switch. Is it possible to carry out this fix and get into the switch electricals to clean it etc without removing the top yoke and drilling out the anti-tamper bolt? Looking at pictures of the switch it appears that if you could access to it from underneath the bottom part could be removed as it looks like its just held on with screws? 

Also, I am sure I found a thread about cleaning the switch where someone had posted pictures including that of the offending spring which needs 'stretched', but I am having a hard time finding any info on it. Anyone enlighten me? 

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My blade did this after a 3 year lay up , remove the switch and strip it , it's 4kd anyway , in te bottom of the switch there's the plastic plate that has the contacts on it , it'll be that or the contactor on the key end that'll have some corrosion or dried grease or some other gunk on it , clean it , Polish the copper contacts , check with a multimeter for continuity
Stick some fresh grease in , Vaseline seems best then try it again

HTH

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Cheers dude, I'll give that a pop. There's defo only screws holding the electrical part of the switch on, had a quick look today. It's a pity you can't just buy the switch on its own, the microfiche which Mark posted above only lists the lock/barrel/switch assembly as a complete unit from Aprilia for £83. So its worth a shot just whipping the damn thing off like you say and giving it a once over. Thumbs Up

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On the assumption that cleaning it doesn't work can you not buy a 2nd hand unit and bastardize it for the bits you need?
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Yeah, that would be my 'Plan B'. Wink

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Managed to remove it. Complete and utter pain to get at the two Phillips screws but after that its just a case of unplugging the block connector from the rear right side of the dash (needed to take the top fairing off to get behind the dash). Arrows show where the Phillips screws bolt it on to the bottom of the ignition lock/barrel:-




So I managed to take it to bits without it exploding all over the place. LOL


This is the switch from the bottom showing the 'key slot' prior to me removing the white part:-


So I removed the white plastic part which contains the electrical contacts etc. Upon inspection, it doesn't look too dirty or overly worn.
 



This is the underside of the small white plastic part which has the brass type fittings that sit on the contacts:-


This is the black plastic 'cover' that the white plastic parts sit inside. The dimples/indents you can see in the bottom I believe are there to allow for adjustment of where the slot in the white plastic part marries up with the key slot coming down from the lock barrel and into the ignition switch itself. 


Trouble is, I've no idea how to 'adjust' it using those dimples. The little ball bearings in the pic a few images up sit in the dimples and keep it from moving. You can move it round one at a time to relocate it. But as I said, I'm not sure what position to put it back in there in? I'll probably just stick it back in exactly as it came out and suck it and see. I've cleaned everything with electrical contact cleaner, dried it off and applied a small amount of Vaseline grease to lubricate it. But I won't be able to fit it back onto the bike until Monday probably as I'm working over the weekend. 

As a side note, I had a thought that while this one is off the bike it may be an idea to just replace it with a brand new one. But I've tried finding one on its own (Aprilia won't sell you one unless its a complete unit inc the lock barrel and its £80) - finding just the switch isn't easy. Any ideas? Apparently its a Zadi PL336 but ze Googles they don't show much! Confused

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I wonder if they're the same as fitted to Benelli/Guzzi as the Italians seem to buy a lot of stuff off the shelf. I've noticed the switch gear very similar. In the same boat, but mines ok ish once the weather improves.

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Success!! Finally got the switch re-fitted this afternoon. I cleaned up all the electrical contacts using emery paper and then electrical contact cleaner. Then I removed each of the brass contacts (only need to prise out one leg of each contact to remove the spring) and pulled the springs out. Gently stretched the springs and re-fitted them, then popped the brass contacts back into place. Finally reassembled the switch itself and re-fitted it using the two phillips headed screws. I fully removed the top fairing to make life a little easier and used an offset screwdriver which helped loads. Prior to re-fitting the switch I had earlier applied silicone lubricant directly into the barrel using the key slot and worked the key back and forth. Some of the lube will run out the bottom where the slot is so once that had stopped I cleaned/dried it all up and started work on reassembling the switch as detailed above.

The end result is an ignition key which really does seem to be 'as new'. You now get a resounding and positive 'click' as it is switched to the on position with no slackness or movement at all of the key in the ignition barrel. And more importantly its not turning itself off and on when it pleases.

All in all, a worthwhile but a bit of a fiddly exercise which I carried out kinda 'blind' but I'm glad I attempted it! Thumbs Up

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Superb well done that man!!
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So, I'm reviving a very old thread here.

Just done this job today and boy as detailed, getting the screws out to remove the electrical switch from the ignition barrel is a real pain! It might actually be easier and give better access to remove the top yoke. I pretty much followed the same procedure as RSV Ecosse did but added a bit of electrical contact grease after cleaning everything off. As commented above, the switch is like new with a much more positive action.

I have had the same problem with the bike cutting out intermittently. Initially it was so rare that I couldn't make it repeat it and therefore couldn't work out where to start investigating, clutch switch, sidestand switch, ECU, wiring earths, there were just no clues.

Eventually, as the problem became more frequent, it became clear that it was something to do with the ignition switch as when you wiggled the switch it became repeatable and the dash would go blank. So today I pulled the switch to bits as shown in this thread and bingo, all sorted! I haven't actually ridden it yet (Or even started it) but the switch operates perfectly now with absolutely no intermittent connection. I'm confident it sorted.
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So, you reckon it's the springs getting 'tired'?
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I think that's the main issue. I stretched the springs a little and was going to put in a 'helper' spring as well but didn't have a compression spring small enough. The copper plates were slightly loose and rattly on the mounting plate but now they are fully taught. This is what gives the switch the positivity.

However, there was also some marking on the switch contacts and I think cleaning the contacts on both the copper plate and main 'board' can't harm. It would certainly be daft not to clean it all up given the effort it takes to get the switch out.

TIP: Before pulling it apart, mark the lower housing to make sure you put the plate in correctly on reassembly. I used a paint pen on the dimple that lined up with the 'narrow' slot in the baseplate (The one with the copper plates on) if that makes sense.
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