converting RSV to TUONO

from this..


into this


how much the cost to convert it?
what parts that i need to change?

joe 90 wrote: remove the fairing, hey you got a tuono

here's the list to get you up and running:

• Headlight and fairing (RSVR clock bracket is the same as Tuono on GenI don't know about GenII?!)
• Top yoke and bars
• You need longer:
  • front brake hoses
  • clutch hose
  • throttle cable (you can route the RSVR cable but its tight and I'm not keen on the throttle sticking open)

To make it pretty:

• Belly pan
• Air tubes
• Coil covers
• Oil and water tank covers
• Rad covers

Hope this helps

Edited by dangleebals - 04 Feb 2010 at 10:59

Sell the RSV and buy a ready made Tuono?

I did mine and it wasn't too bad.
So have others on this forum, but I think they spent more than me.
What you will find is that you can do it fairly cheaply if you are careful.
It's true that you will need longer brake and clutch lines, HEL are nice. They were very very helpful and gave me a choice of custom lengths and angle of ends on a phone call at no extra charge to their stock product prices.
The throttle cables will go no problem if you route them correctly, pm me and I'll send photos of mine.
To an extent this will depend upon your bar height.
Getting the bars right is one aspect that, although apparently simple, can be problematical - height and angle of throwback will cause clearance issues. I did not to use stock Tuono risers they are stupidly long, and to be honest they'tre a bit of a bodge by Alrilia to allow the bars to clear the fairing, cos they've used a fairing bracket based on the RSV. (this is why the whole standard Tuono is a bit of a bodge, and very much a great candidate for home conversion, cos you can do it better than the factory quite easily).
I wanted lower bars to aid getting weight over the front so you can ride aggressively without the front washing on you. This is important if you ride hard. The weight distribution of the standard bike is terrible. This meant cutting the mirror attachment ends off the front fairing bracket, and also trimming back the rear edge of the front fairing to a custom shape to allow bar clearance. I then used low risers  which I had cut and drilled to fit the existing headstock. All this work had to be done once the bars and riser combination had been bought, and then adapted to clear the fairing. I had to resell one pair of bars as they didn't have sufficient drawback.
Then you may need to drop the forks in the yokes and get custom bogbones for the rear linkage to rebalance the centre of gravity (a GOOD suspension shop will do this). If you are just going to bimble and cruise on it you don't need to do this at all.
One thing you must do is brace the stalk of the subframe to the headstock, as it gets bigger stresses than on the RSV, not being supported by side fairing, and will snap.
There are lots of litle foibles like this to overcome. If you are using an RSVR like me, its a good idea to replace the rear subframe with an RSV unit (straight swap) as it will support pannier weight safely (RSVR owners do carry panniers but they are overstressing the design spec of the subframe - refer to the tech manual) and allows you to carry a pillion.
I got all carbon covers for coils, airducts and front fairing from a fabricator in germany for total cost of around 500 euro, which is fine. Bars and risers were about 100 quid. Brake and clutch lines about the same. Rear subframe £30 off eBay. Gas welding work on the subframe £20 (I shaped and provided the ally plate to fit it). Adapting risers to OE yoke £25.
PM for details if you like.