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joe 90
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Chief Stator tester Joined: 11 Feb 2008 Status: Offline Points: 1978 |
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Posted: 08 Dec 2011 at 18:01 |
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Taps ...if tensioners are gone engine makes a racket ,chain would be loose and jumping around all over the place ....tapping noise relates to valve clearence ... they arrived today new cct
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joe 90
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Chief Stator tester Joined: 11 Feb 2008 Status: Offline Points: 1978 |
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Posted: 08 Dec 2011 at 22:30 |
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This is the same noise as mine google type RSV1000R noise its the white one
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tapmyhed
Premium Member Joined: 11 Feb 2008 Location: Suffolk Status: Offline Points: 1944 |
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Posted: 14 Dec 2011 at 12:29 |
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OUCH!!!
That sounds BAAAAADDDDDD! Sounds like they have totally given up. In this case a manual modification to the hydrolic adjusters would prevent so much slack/slap if the hydrolic side gives up..... Mine need doing as only tap a little on tickover.....I know the tappets are fine, checked them....bang on in the middle of tolerance....checked them 3 times over 2 nights...just to be sure.....not something you want to get wrong! I remember on an old dr125 I used to own as a kid the cam chain was on a spring loaded adjuster, which you had to loosen on tickover so the spring could re-adjust to the chain before you nipped it up tight to stop it moving (you had to turn off the engine and turn the engine a little to ensure it was tight on the correct side)....it made a similar noise with the chain slapping about ! I always questioned the logic of having a slappy chain on tickover....but was told the slappy chain would free up the tensioner so the spring could push it back out against the chain as they were known to stay stuck even when loosened off......it makes sense to me! Glad you got the parts. Keep us posted on the fix.
Edited by tapmyhed - 14 Dec 2011 at 12:31 |
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Factory 04
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joe 90
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Chief Stator tester Joined: 11 Feb 2008 Status: Offline Points: 1978 |
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Posted: 18 Dec 2011 at 13:40 |
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CHANGED ONE OF THE CAM TENSIONERS TODAY ( THE EASY ONE) STARTED BIKE STILL MAKES A RACKET THE OLD TENSIONER SEEMED TO BE PARTLY SEIZED , WHERE AS THE NEW ONE WAS MORE MOVEABLE DOWN THE SHAFT ALL THE WAY DOWN.
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kiwi_rsvr
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EX Dr Frankie Stein (splitter) Joined: 10 Sep 2008 Location: Hockley, Essex Status: Offline Points: 3391 |
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Posted: 18 Dec 2011 at 15:51 |
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Just use thicker oil or some banana's and sawdust ....It'l be fine and quiet.
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joe 90
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Posted: 18 Dec 2011 at 16:44 |
I guess I have to change the hard tensioner (the front one,) I was hoping changing the easy one would sort it out I noticed the hose from the vacum pressure hose, the one shaped like a u.f.o to the tb was leaking. HERE WE GO TAPS THIS IS A ANOTHER ROUTE INEdited by joe 90 - 19 Dec 2011 at 21:34 |
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joe 90
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Chief Stator tester Joined: 11 Feb 2008 Status: Offline Points: 1978 |
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Posted: 19 Dec 2011 at 21:37 |
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He we go taps another route in I found somewhere .
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kiwi_rsvr
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EX Dr Frankie Stein (splitter) Joined: 10 Sep 2008 Location: Hockley, Essex Status: Offline Points: 3391 |
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Posted: 20 Dec 2011 at 18:25 |
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Now I see why its the "hard one".....
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joe 90
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Chief Stator tester Joined: 11 Feb 2008 Status: Offline Points: 1978 |
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Posted: 20 Dec 2011 at 19:47 |
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Correct me or not the tensioners self prime on start up. When built in factory the engine oil is filled by dealer at point of sale.
Edited by joe 90 - 20 Dec 2011 at 20:53 |
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Spoonz
Admins Group Joined: 11 Feb 2008 Location: North Devon Status: Offline Points: 10957 |
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Posted: 20 Dec 2011 at 21:17 |
They will self prime but ideally get some oil in there before inserting to speed the process otherwise they will clatter like hell for a while.
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tapmyhed
Premium Member Joined: 11 Feb 2008 Location: Suffolk Status: Offline Points: 1944 |
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Posted: 21 Dec 2011 at 09:17 |
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Nice pics!
Thats one way to skin the cat for sure....I avoided that by forcing it up. I have no idea how you got those pipes off, I have even less of a clue on how you'll get them back on!! Wobble bar isn't a UV joint, its a rounded square section that goes into the socket...it allows a few degrees of movement.....if you get a couple of very short wobble bars together, you can get round things....not as fiddly as a UV. Look at the ends of the big half incher....you'll see what I mean. As it happens this is the very kit I used. As Spoonz says....fill them with oil before you put them in....work them in your hands to squish out the air, then when you pop them into the engine, get a syringe and put some oil in the hole.......they will prime instantly. Good pics........personally, as I'm so anal about stuff, I would of had the rocker covers back on to stop crap getting in there!!!
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joe 90
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Posted: 21 Dec 2011 at 17:10 |
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cheers taps ..watch this space
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IanG
Premium Member Joined: 04 Oct 2010 Location: N Wales Status: Offline Points: 10767 |
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Posted: 21 Dec 2011 at 17:26 |
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Has no one on here replaced the standard ones with aftermarket screw adjust type?
I recall a year or so back one of the guys on the 'zone I think he was an aussie, made some and also found a way to re do the big ends using Toyota shells in the same thread. Also one of the yanks on AF1 is selling sets of mechanical with hydraulic assistance for cheaper than Rotax originals. Aside from the strange practice of putting tensioners on the drive side of the cam chains I can't see anything but problems in store using a purely hydraulic tensioner. Discuss............as our overseas friends say |
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joe 90
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Posted: 21 Dec 2011 at 17:36 |
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They used hydraulic tensionsers for low maintenance, less chance of egine failure, they started using hyraulic tensioners around 8 years ago on bikes. There is a bloke on you tube explaining about tensioners and why they fail
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IanG
Premium Member Joined: 04 Oct 2010 Location: N Wales Status: Offline Points: 10767 |
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Posted: 21 Dec 2011 at 17:48 |
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I know how long they've been used and I know why as well,basically because it's a cheap,easy and automatic way of doing the job.
Anything that involves a mechanically inept gorilla (read average bike tec) swinging on a spanner is open to abuse,however hopefully we know enough here do things properly. These aftermarket types have the ability to take out most of the lash from the chains by mechanical means and still provide hydraulic adjustment when pressured up. The advantage being that they can't back off completely if the pressure drops or fluctuates,unlike the Rotax offerings which can back right off and leave the cam chain flapping in the breeze and the valves dancing on the pistons. When mine need doing I know what type I'll be using as replacements. ![]() |
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joe 90
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Posted: 21 Dec 2011 at 17:57 |
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www.you tube djh cycle sport cam chain tensioner probs exp
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IanG
Premium Member Joined: 04 Oct 2010 Location: N Wales Status: Offline Points: 10767 |
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Posted: 21 Dec 2011 at 18:23 |
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Example of the type of thing I'm talking about
http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=127499 Ok, hyperlink doesn't work but cut and paste into browser will Edited by IanG - 21 Dec 2011 at 18:25 |
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joe 90
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Posted: 21 Dec 2011 at 19:11 |
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maunual , you need to adjust, pain in the arse, never heard of hyraulic cct failing a engine, heard of manual blowing a few engines.
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IanG
Premium Member Joined: 04 Oct 2010 Location: N Wales Status: Offline Points: 10767 |
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Posted: 21 Dec 2011 at 19:51 |
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I'll trust a mechanical tensioner unit that I've set up over a std hydraulic part anyday,especially when high revs are involved.
Plus if the concept is good enough for the 200mph Punisher on the Texas Mile I'm sure it will take whatever I throw at it. I've never had any problems with a manual tensioner on any bikes I've owned,but I've heard of quite a few hydraulic ones failing. Personal choice really,I'm sure you made the right decision for you. But then those that can make things,tend to...............those that can't stick with OEM (to paraphrase) I like nothing better than improving on compromise parts that come as standard and I never stop questioning ''how can I improve this'' ![]() Edited by IanG - 21 Dec 2011 at 19:53 |
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joe 90
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Posted: 21 Dec 2011 at 20:04 |
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joe 90
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Posted: 27 Dec 2011 at 11:38 |
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i took out the new cam chain tensioner today , because I did not prime it, just as I thought it is self priming on start up .It was solid , so put it back. Tensioner has a valve , pressure builds up pushes valve in lets oil in ( this happens within seconds)
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