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big bore and reliabilty 1060vs1102

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PaulW View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PaulW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep 2016 at 16:57
Originally posted by geobarb geobarb wrote:

what about the subject of losing power quicker?Is it true?



Don't go on AFI so haven't a clue what the Yanks take is on this, but my 1060 was dyno'd at 139.4 rwbhp when fitted, 141.5 two years and 2500 miles later, so by that result they get stronger with more miles ;)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 426hemi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep 2016 at 16:57
Talk to nitroargi as he's in your area and knows loads of good companies over there.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote geobarb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep 2016 at 17:13
I already discused with him for this on another forum,and was very helpfull.
The thing is that there is limited knowledge in greece to make the build.
The big bore builds is very few
Nitroargi's big bore will be test bench and guidance for all of us that wiling to follow
I try to gather the most information i can,so if anybody have any other experience please share
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote constant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep 2016 at 18:14
hi shyted what was griffs logic when you spoke to him about the big bore was it to have it or spend your money on other things i was going to get mine done this month but the money i had for it and more had to go on the house 
cheers 
simon
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nitroargi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep 2016 at 18:17
There is no way to know 100% that you will build a big bore kit...no matter which option...and never have to bother again with the engine

HOWEVER you can try and minimize the percentage of failure by finding a capable shop to do the job properly. In Greece, since you live there, both 1060 and 1100 options are done and the guy who did these engine knows his stuff. 

As far as which option to choose from that is only up to you...budget wise all options are more or less the same so money will not help you decide. 

As far as perfrmance the 1060 will increse your wheel horsepower by approx 10Ps where the 1100 option will give a little more and maybe more torque. 

Healthy Moded engines with both options are by far more out there than the ones that had mechanical problems so the possibilities that nothing will happen to your motor are to your favor

I went with the 1100 option from Amauri with the liners because I feel that is safer...but that doesn't mean that those who didn't will have engine problems
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shyted Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep 2016 at 20:45
Originally posted by constant constant wrote:

hi shyted what was griffs logic when you spoke to him about the big bore was it to have it or spend your money on other things i was going to get mine done this month but the money i had for it and more had to go on the house 
cheers 
simon

1060 all the way.I suggested to him about 1102,or bigger but he doesn't do them for the road .
I asked about slotted cam wheels too.Will not fit them to road bikes and just doesn't do them because you take away the mechanical safety margine.Twas he who said about excessive crank case pressure.
He can do them in his sleep . His logic is that what he does is reliable
Building a raceing engine,well that's the ball in your court because if things go pop well you've pushed it.
Bit different dealing with customers over the counter with their road bikes.
And cheers to you too Simon.
Ted

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shyted Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep 2016 at 21:07
Originally posted by geobarb geobarb wrote:

Hi shyted,i dont think that there is major difference in cost between 1060 and 1102.
That is because you need to replate the cylinder with nicasil,and if you add that cost,you will be very close to 1102.
You said that you never saw an 1060 faill,did you saw an 1102 fail?
The crank case pressure is a logical argument.

Geobarb,no i don't know anyone who's 1102 has failed. I only know hemi who has anything bigger than 1060.
I know that the 1060 had failures early on ,but having read the posts on AF1 it's nearly always been down to incorrect build.
failure on anything bigger has been down to mechanical chaos,usually down to the weight of the piston and viberation associated with it.Not necessarily on road bikes either.Then again is that down to build too and the way people push things? I don't know
Go and look for yourself on AF1,it's well documented.
The steel liner seems to be more reliable and if i remember it may have been Amurai who tried that.
If you want to do 1102 do it.It's your bike and cash.
You asked what we would do ,and thought, and i told you what i ( me ) would do . Certainly don't think i'm telling you what to do .
By the way,Langcourt international charge £110 + VAT(TVA) and postage per barrel for plating and i know that as i've just had one done.
How much is it all ? Have you priced it ?
Or better still if your really concerned about reliability,buy some carbon wheels instead.Less hassle and a thousand times more reliable and that i have first hand experience with.
I used to be uncertain , but now i'm not sure anymore
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 426hemi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep 2016 at 21:36
Carbon bst's = porn😍
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shyted Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep 2016 at 21:40
Hemi,got something to tell you dude.Will PM you.Smile
I used to be uncertain , but now i'm not sure anymore
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote constant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Sep 2016 at 11:48
thanks for the reply ted maybe my turn will come next year for the big bore
simon
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote redratbike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Sep 2016 at 11:51
Originally posted by Shyted Shyted wrote:

Hemi,got something to tell you dude.Will PM you.Smile
oooh secrets I like those...isit a link to cheap bst's


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote geobarb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Sep 2016 at 16:28
Thank you all for your inputs.
The main conclusion after reading all opinions in this thread is that the 1060 is more reliable than 1102.
This is the reason griff offers 1060 kit and not 1102.I believe also af1 offers only the 1060 for the same reasons.The only thing that is questionable in the 1060 kit for me,is the nicasil coating,and if there was a 1060 kit with steel liners,would be the best solution.
The nicasil coating is a difficult procedure that needs to be done by experts only?
If that is the case,maybe there is very few that can do the coating,and in greece i think no one can do it
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nitroargi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Sep 2016 at 16:32
In Greece noone can do it
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote redratbike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Sep 2016 at 17:59
Maybe nows the time to work with a company to produce 1060 liner kits?




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IanG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Sep 2016 at 22:51
Once you start talking iron liners my brain wonders how many mm you could hog it out to by machining the cases Wink

A 1060 is basically just a couple of service re bores in old money, an 1102 with liners is a B/bore and starting to push the boundary's of the rest of the engine


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote redratbike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Sep 2016 at 23:24
So whats a spoon valley racing 1127?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fitz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Oct 2016 at 03:11
Originally posted by redratbike redratbike wrote:

So whats a spoon valley racing 1127?

Insane !!!!!!LOL

They also make a supercharger kit for the gen 2 rsvr
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nitroargi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Oct 2016 at 05:22
Spoon Valley kit has taken the cylinder bore to its limits...you can't go bigger than that unless of course you build an engine for drag racing for example.

Then you can go bigger but you won't have any water passing outside the cylinders in order to cool down things...I have seen it 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote redratbike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Oct 2016 at 09:13
Originally posted by Fitz Fitz wrote:

Originally posted by redratbike redratbike wrote:

So whats a spoon valley racing 1127?


Insane !!!!!!LOL

They also make a supercharger kit for the gen 2 rsvr
basically it's for any rotax v twin so gen1 as well.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IanG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Oct 2016 at 20:48
Originally posted by nitroargi nitroargi wrote:

Spoon Valley kit has taken the cylinder bore to its limits...you can't go bigger than that unless of course you build an engine for drag racing for example.

Then you can go bigger but you won't have any water passing outside the cylinders in order to cool down things...I have seen it 


Using oem Rotax barrels anyway Wink

Plenty of room for custom barrels not suffering from the limitation they impose regarding liners.

In fact if thinking B/bores it's probably better thinking along those lines to start with


 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 426hemi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Oct 2016 at 21:28
Spoonvalley don't make a plenum for gen1, surprising how little you get in the kit and have to do a lot of engineering yourself, still trick as f**k though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote redratbike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Oct 2016 at 21:33
Originally posted by 426hemi 426hemi wrote:

Spoonvalley don't make a plenum for gen1, surprising how little you get in the kit and have to do a lot of engineering yourself, still trick as f**k though.
would like to try one

Ned over on af1 has just updated his falco turbo with gen2 heads and barrel spacers to lower the compression just waiting for dyno results

Pretty cheap way for lots of power



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 426hemi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Oct 2016 at 23:09
The spoonvalley way certainly isn't cheap, trick as but not cheap. I would love a supercharged bike but on a twin it gets expensive and I have my old gpz1000rx that I want to do like the h2.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tifa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Oct 2016 at 00:53
Going 1060 is a great comprimise, reliability vs performance.

Up to now, nobody (i don't think) has mentioned the extra load on the ends and mains.
They have a definite stress threshold before they'll let go I recon.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shyted Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Oct 2016 at 09:22
Originally posted by Tifa Tifa wrote:

Going 1060 is a great comprimise, reliability vs performance.

Up to now, nobody (i don't think) has mentioned the extra load on the ends and mains.
They have a definite stress threshold before they'll let go I recon.

Personaly agree with what your saying there Tifa.As not to sound like" i'm holyer than thow",i wouldn't even do a 1060 withought renewing/overhauling the oil pump.I would also be looking at the stator windings to see if they'd gone black,if they had then they'd be out too.
That's just me though.
I have been in touch with Micah from AF1.As a result of that exchange,i'm doing the mains and big ends to the largest shell tollerance so when i build this motor i have on the bench it will be bang on and with a 1060.Will be having the crank to Wrathall too for the oilways chamfered
I used to be uncertain , but now i'm not sure anymore
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote geobarb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Oct 2016 at 15:33
For sure if going the big bore route you will certainly need to check and measure all engine components,
and replace if needed.The extra load must be matched by top condition components to achieve reliability.
At uk who does the nikasil coating on the cylinders?
For 1060 the quality of that procedure is the key for max reliability.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote redratbike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Oct 2016 at 16:01
Originally posted by Shyted Shyted wrote:

.Will be having the crank to Wrathall too for the oilways chamfered
isn't that an easy thing to do?  ( ha ha ha  it is when you say it fast he says)


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote redratbike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Oct 2016 at 16:02
Originally posted by geobarb geobarb wrote:

At uk who does the nikasil coating on the cylinders?
there are quite a few companies that do it ...but maybe ask Griff who he trusts


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shyted Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Oct 2016 at 21:31
Can tell you one and that's
Langcourts Engineering LTD,
Unit G,
The Link Centre,Weston-Super-Mare,
North Somerset
BS24 9AY
U.K
Tel +44 1934 612226
UKOffice@langcourt.com
Used them several times with all manner of problems and they are very consistant.
I used to be uncertain , but now i'm not sure anymore
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shyted Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Oct 2016 at 21:37
Originally posted by redratbike redratbike wrote:

Originally posted by Shyted Shyted wrote:

.Will be having the crank to Wrathall too for the oilways chamfered
isn't that an easy thing to do?  ( ha ha ha  it is when you say it fast he says)

You know what it would be if i had a clue how to do it propper . Don't think my 2 speed half inch chuck Bosch hammer drill was quite made for that task.
I used to be uncertain , but now i'm not sure anymore
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