Aprilia RSV4 R APRC 2012 Piston smashd

Thanks Redratbike, I spoke to John and he was very helpfull offers a great service and knows the RSV very well, he has a chap who actually makes the valve guides and sets up the head, anyways in the end I managed to buy a completely brand new head from a company in Germany, valves and everything already setup, it has never been used and is exactly the same part number as mine, worked out cheaper than fixing the original head.

Turns out that the cylinder head on my RSV4 was infact from a 2014 model RSV4, clearly it has been replaced before.

Time to start collecting all the gaskets that I might need and clean all the parts.

Where is the best place to get all the correct torque settings for this engine?

Thank you once again for all your help and support, I will be back soon looking for more info.

I watched a chap on utube working on his RSV4 and suggested the torque settings were not accurate as he snapped bolts.

Not much progress as work load has doubled recently, my work is now eating into my play time ha ha.

I have all the engine parts that I need, just need to list out and order the required gaskets, anyone know where I might be able to buy the tool for checking the shims and the tensioner bar tool in the UK?

Regards

Its been a while but not been very well for sometime, well not well enough for garage play time.

I am having trouble timing the engine no matter what procedure I try...

I have set 1st Cylinder Left Rear to TDC, rotated clockwise for 150 deg, locking pins match at the front cylinder, cam gear dots matched,  locked pins, tensioner set and bolt on the front cam.

Next, back to TDC of rear 1st cylinder before another 450 deg to tackle rear cylinder however the crank locks up almost before I reach the 450Deg and I do not want to force it...plugs installed.

I have tried the other procedure where by it says 300 deg but it locks up again.

I bought the bottom half with the crankshaft installed so its not been disturbed, the clutch side Crankshaft gear was installed with the dots matching also, the rear cylinder head is new and came with the valves installed, front cylinder head was checked before reassembly. 

If I use the tone wheel and setup with the IR and IF marks I can rotate the complete engine freely with the cam bolts on and both cams rotating.

Im a bit lost as to what is causing this, the front and rear exhaust cams are correctly located with the F and R marking.

Simple setup to achieve but I seem to be missing something and I gave up at 2PM this morning.

Appreciate any input any one can input here for me to check further.

Regards and many thanks in advance.

Im pretty sure I managed it last year but maybe I had it rotating but not in time....to much morphine I think.

I crashed my GSXR 1000 just over a year ago and smashed myself a little, lady pulled out in my path and saw me at the last minute panicked and stopped dead across my path, I had 3 seconds to react, I flew and landed 15 meters away according to the cops and I remember nothing. After 4 months in hospital I was told I would not walk again and sent home in a wheelchair...stubborn mule that I am, I am now walking and wanting to get this Aprilia ready for the summer.

I will be getting more garage time tomorrow and will have another go at it step by step, if you coudl think of any other issue I should look at I'd appreciate it.

Thanks for the response though.

 did mark all the cams before I started the initial strip down so they cannot be incorrectly placed, I have swapped them tonight just to check and it make no difference to the rotation stiffness at one part.

Rotation is free with no cams connected, with only the front cams installed I have free movement, with the rear cams installed and the front ones removed I have free rotation but when both are connected and timed I have a slight resistance during a cycle but it does rotate completely.

I have attached pic of my Cam lobe direction.

something is catching somewhere to cause the resistance, maybe I am overthinking it but without the plugs if should rotate with only little resistance. First two pics are the front cylinder and the second two are the rear.  Thank you for your help.

Each intake gear has 2 sets of alignment marks. On the rear bank it’s set with 2 dots on the exhaust lined up to 1 on the intake. 

On the front, 1 exhaust to 2 intake. 

If it all looks right then maybe that tightness is normal. You could run it by Griff at AP just to be sure. 

Finally completed this little project and installed the engine but ran into some issues.

when I switch on the key the rev needle swings all the way up and back down, I have a red tringle and the orange triangle on, no green neutral light, hit the start key and nothing no clicks, the tank is  not currently connected.

I have some spare connectors and not sure if they are used or not, could someone tell me if I have messed something.

I'll get the diags on it tomorrow and check for codes

Many thanks for the prompt responses gents.

The only thing different is the engine bottom block and a new rear head. loom, clocks, TB's, air box are from original bike, could the two block connectors be for the ABS, mine has the rings on the wheels but I see no modules /pumps etc.  Issue is the top end was stripped by a dealer before the owner decided to sell it so when I bought it these connectors were already disconnected.

Be interesting to see what the diags say might just be a stuck starter relay, I know the starter motor is good as I bench tested it to check compression once the engine was complete (195 Psi on all ports).