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RSVR Gen 1 - Common issues

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Moto GP Alien
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fugly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jan 2019 at 14:14
I do like a yellow Gen 1.......
Full Arrows system, 1060 Big Bore, PC5 and Evo Airbox. Bring on the big grin!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote llebagio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jan 2019 at 20:54
How can you tell it’s one of those stands?  I dont know why the 4 forks thing means either ?!

Nice tip re solderless connectors!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote llebagio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jan 2019 at 20:55
It is bloody lovely
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote deloco7 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jan 2019 at 21:43
The 4 rings on the forks refers to the Rings showing at the top of the forks, through the top yoke. A lot of people go 3 rings,some go 4 for a bit quicker handling (dropping the forks down through the yokes a bit). Personally I found the OE stand sh*t no matter how many rings were showing. 
Don't know how James can tell exactly who made the stand but after a while you do learn to see differences that others may not notice.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote llebagio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jan 2019 at 22:23
Oh I see...I don’t think I’m at a level where I’d benefit enough / notice the difference. I’m a confessed weekend warrior and attack one or two track days a year. I just discovered my new Gen 1 has a Power Commander...I’ve almost no idea what it does! But i love the fact it’s got one 😂

Since taking delivery I also now know I need a new seat (mine is after market and doesn’t fit as it should) and I’m still looking for a set of original bar ends. The search continues 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote budd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jan 2019 at 11:56
hopefully the PC3 means it's been set up on a dyno to suit any aftermarket parts fitted, although it is possible to use Dyno jets generic maps, you basically look at their website and find the map that best matches your spec,eg K&N filter, end can etc.  Download the dyno jet software plug the PC in via USB and you can tell which map is loaded if it's a custom map then all is well if not the generic maps can leave a lot to be desired so a trip to the dyno my be wise. Also Ohlins recommend the fork oil is changed every 4K which is much more often than is typical and is usually neglected so check the S/H, also the only way to be sure about the rear suspension linkage is to strip it and inspect, on mine the last service (before I got it) stated the linkage had been re-greased  so all should have been well, but close inspection showed yes it had been re-greased but the bearings were knackered so the new grease was pointless, quite why the dealer did it is beyond me if it was sripped down to apply grease why not sort the bearings (which aren't silly money) moto is while a complete service history is great when buying a used bike don't totally rely on it and double check everything you never know how trustworthy the sevice techs are
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote llebagio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jan 2019 at 12:04
Great advice thank you. What is the standard cost for stripping it and re-greasing suspension linkage. It’s not a job I’d feel confident doing myself to be honest. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote budd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jan 2019 at 13:21
Originally posted by llebagio llebagio wrote:

Great advice thank you. What is the standard cost for stripping it and re-greasing suspension linkage. It’s not a job I’d feel confident doing myself to be honest. 

wouldn't like to say really I do all my own work so not had to pay someone for a long time, and it's not just about re-greasing it's about judging whether the bearings are still servicable packing knackered bearings is a waste of grease... I'd like it's an easy job but it's all relative you do need a reasonable level of skill and the right tools, some of which aren't necessarily found in the average tool box a torque wrench for example. The best way to learn is to get 'hands on' and have a go but with safety critical components it can be quite a risk to just get stuck in, what you need is someone local to oversee the process and talk you through the process, I tend to find once I'v been shown something I can then do it myself next time. And going forward the more you do the more you become able to do and jobs that may seem challenging become routine.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote llebagio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jan 2019 at 16:08
Wise words - well if you know of a friendly RSV member based in Norwich then let me know!! 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wigginsjp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jan 2019 at 19:50
Originally posted by deloco7 deloco7 wrote:

The 4 rings on the forks refers to the Rings showing at the top of the forks, through the top yoke. A lot of people go 3 rings,some go 4 for a bit quicker handling (dropping the forks down through the yokes a bit). Personally I found the OE stand sh*t no matter how many rings were showing. 
Don't know how James can tell exactly who made the stand but after a while you do learn to see differences that others may not notice.

Sorry I didn't really explain that very well. Rings is exactly how Del describes Thumbs Up(cheers dude) 


As for the stand the name I mentioned-bubseywoo-was a chap on here years ago whom made them to address the issue. I purchased one for my gen 1 to improve things which it did however it stuck out a little more and I found it would drag on the road when proper cranked over. 
When I got my gen2 it also had one fitted but by then I was sold on the US side stands and since that have never looked back and purchased those. 

Ref the bubsey stand....please check the welds on the top of the arm/leg/stand itself are welded both sides (where the bolt goes through the arm) and there is no cracks. The very first ones were only welded one side on the outer parts and would start to crack. Just check as it was a few of the very early ones. 
www.apriliaperformance.co.uk
www.apriliaforum.co.uk
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote llebagio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jan 2019 at 20:21
I talked up common issue...just gone to start the new bike. It arrived late last night. It typically wouldn’t start. On push 1 of the ignition it tried to fire but didn’t catch. In press 2 same again. I didn’t leave it trying for very long as am aware that these are temperamental. Only held in for 3 - 5 seconds. On press 3 there is an audible click from the battery vicinity of the bike and now it’s not firing at all. when I press the button I can hear a click every time, but not firing. I’ve had the seat off. Click seems to come from relay. I’m not mechanically minded so any help much appreciated. I should add that the bike is from RiteBike. It was fully serviced and MOT’d by them last week before coming to me. I’ve checked voltage and it’s full. 

This is exactly why I should not have bought a bike 200 miles away!! 

(Mechanic from Ritebike will call me in morning but not sure what he can do from there!)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IanG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jan 2019 at 20:56
Originally posted by wigginsjp wigginsjp wrote:

Originally posted by llebagio llebagio wrote:

Thanks mate. 

Does anyone have a keen eye to know whether this is the original stand?  

Previous owner added a lot of mods, including AP branded rear sets. Seems odd to not have done the stand if it known to be such an issue. 

In the meantime, what is issue with the stand? Are there certain things I can do to lower the risk of bike falling over before I get new stand??

The stand on your link is not the original side stand. That is one made by a guy who used to be on here called Bubsywoo 

The OEM stand can be okay if the forks are four lines showing but like many on the three bikes I've owned I have replaced the side stand with a US spec one. 


A bit late to the party but yup,that's a Bubsywoo stand all right.   As said check the welds at the fork.

Instead of milling the fork out of solid bar he fabbed them and only welded the first ones on the outside where it was easy to reach.

If you stand the bike up with the weight off the stand when it's down try waggling the arm up and down to check how much play there is as that gives a clue to the integrity.

As long as it's still ok you should have nothing to worry about,mine is still fine after about 8 years use.

But then I don't sit on the bike when it's on the stand Wink
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Looking forward to the next track day
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote constant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jan 2019 at 03:13
charge the battery and give it a go and dont use any throttle when starting these they flood easy you might need a new battery but dont worry these bike are sound once you sort the earth leads and solenoid also check brown connector behind the seat cowl right side these sometimes melt a bit
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FTM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jan 2019 at 06:36
And use the fast idle lever, it's on the left handlebar and looks like a choke lever. All it does is open the throttle a little without having to blip the throttle.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mr Miller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jan 2019 at 09:39
     
like so Confused

If you find us in a hedge check the bike first please .. I`m free on the NHS...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IanG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jan 2019 at 11:17
Aayy,pretty      Italian wiring at it's best LOL

Unfortunately you can't just use and abuse these bikes without maintenance like you can a Jap one.

However once on top of neglect they don't need much in the way of special care,a good start is keeping them away from ' main dealers' who are sometimes a complete bunch of incompetent retards with non existent ethics Wink



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Looking forward to the next track day
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote llebagio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jan 2019 at 12:41
Thanks for all tips guys. A night shift on charge made no difference as batt showing as fully charged. Next was bridging the solenoid. With some sparks the bike started and sounds incredible. So I THINK that confirms the solenoids the problem. Strangely the SH shows that AP put a new 150 amp one in back in March ‘17 so no idea what has gone on. Anyway - new solenoid required and I’ll get leads sorted too. 

The next query I have is regarding drips. I let it run for a good few minutes and over that time a few drops appeared underneath the bike. Not fuel or oil, so coolant I think. Left side beneath fairing. I suspect just part of running from cold but thoughts appreciated!!?? 

I also discovered a rogue earth wire beneath the seat. It has, at some point, been connected to the battery but not any more. Perhaps power commander? It’s spliced/tales into large loom so I can’t spot where it goes. The bike clearly runs fine without it but I don’t like the idea of it flapping about under the seat!! Any ideas? Do power commanders tend to have LED on if they are connected to battery?

I’ll try and post photo of what I mean 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote llebagio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jan 2019 at 12:47
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote budd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jan 2019 at 14:04
Originally posted by llebagio llebagio wrote:

Wise words - well if you know of a friendly RSV member based in Norwich then let me know!! 

unfortunately I'm up Norff so can't be of much help but I'm sure you'll find someone more local to give you hand.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote budd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jan 2019 at 14:18
your arrant wire could be the PC3 they take their power from the throttle pot and are earth direct to the battery, is the PC3 doing anything? it should power up briefly with the ignition on and come on all the time when running.
 Sounds like the solenoid to me, buy a new one from AP and send your old one back to them, Griff should be able to tell you if they did indeed supply it. If it proves they didn't then your S/H should be viewed with suspicion (like I said before you can't totally rely on it as gospel), nobody said ape ownership was easy and is all the more reason to get involved in the maintenance but once you get the niggles ironed out they are a good reliable bike, rewarding to ride and own.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote llebagio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jan 2019 at 14:18
Ritebike have kindly offered to send me a replacement solenoid. Sadly it’s the Aprilia stock one 😖, which they’ve just ordered. I wonder whether the new ones are any better than the old ones? either way I think I’ll order upgrade and put in the better one regardless. 

Thanks again folks. Loving this forum. 

David 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote legend88 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jan 2019 at 15:26
See what comes from Ritebike, if it's a 150A one it may well be OK as the originals were 50A
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kralik Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Apr 2019 at 15:44
Originally posted by constant constant wrote:

i put a vtr firestorm side stand on mine it a straight fit but you need to drill a hole for the switch which takes seconds though i disconnected mine and plugged it


I have bought the Blackbird stand and reading your post it looks like I will have to drill a new hole for a original AP switch. Have you got any pics how you have solved it please?
good luck or bad luck, who knows
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JimGreezy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 2019 at 17:34
how you getting on with the bike mate?
i also just noticed your not far from me, but thats no help as im useless with a spanner, great bike mech round my way fyi, and he knows the mille really well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rsvwalt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Apr 2019 at 18:57
Disconnect the switch from the loom. Using a multimeter on ohms, connect the meter to the wires from the switch, turn the rotory section of the switch until the meter reads the same value as it does with the meter leads connected together, usually 0.2 - 2 ohms, depending on the resistance of the leads, the switch is now closed. 
Position the switch locating cut out onto the post on the stand bracket and  with the stand in the up position drill a hole where the lug on the switch corresponds to the stand at the side of the pivot bolt.
Locate the lug into the hole and bolt  the switch to the stand and reconnect the switch to the loom, test the operation of the switch to check it cuts the engine out if the stand is down and the bike is in gear.
I hope this makes sense.
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