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RSV superleggera project

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mona-toetje View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mona-toetje Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Feb 2018 at 11:00
Looking nice. What one way valves are you using?
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budd View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote budd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Feb 2018 at 11:55
Originally posted by Af1 Af1 wrote:


I don't understand why you would change from the fastest colour to one that is at least 10 mph slower.....

Great build


I thought bit only fair given the tuning bits and bobs to restrict it a little with the 'slow red' livery, 'fast yellow' would have been to much for me to manage
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote budd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Feb 2018 at 11:58
Originally posted by mona-toetje mona-toetje wrote:

Looking nice. What one way valves are you using?


just some I picked up from ebay couple of quid each, look better quality than the OE plastic one.
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mona-toetje View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mona-toetje Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Feb 2018 at 14:30
Allright. Was thinking to do the same. But would there be a difference in the specs of the valves? Like, how strong the springs in the valve are
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mona-toetje View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mona-toetje Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Feb 2018 at 14:33
Dont know what the opening pressure is of the oem ppc valve. And if you have 2 valves that would need more pressure?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote budd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Feb 2018 at 16:16
I've blown through them and I can't feel any difference not a scientific test by any means I know but you can blow them easily no apparent resistance, so I see no reason it won't work like the OE one.
The whole thing is just a bit of an experiment really, not that I'm claiming any credit for the mod it's something I'd read about previously.
TBH I'd not given it much thought because the plan was to fit a proper slipper clutch (still is the plan once funds allow)so hopefully it's really only a temp measure. And ultimately if it causes problems I'll just return it back to stock.
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mona-toetje View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mona-toetje Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb 2018 at 09:19
Yes I understand. I did some more research. The metal types are usually diesel/petrol valves. Which need more pressure. The ones aprilia use, have a rubber flapper inside. Which require very little pressure. I found that piaggio scooters use a same sort of valve, part no 654935 piaggio. Only the white part is red. But 20 euro cheaper! I gonna get this one. And have a working original white valve in my other mille. So im gonna compare them
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote budd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb 2018 at 09:45
Originally posted by mona-toetje mona-toetje wrote:

Yes I understand. I did some more research. The metal types are usually diesel/petrol valves. Which need more pressure. The ones aprilia use, have a rubber flapper inside. Which require very little pressure. I found that piaggio scooters use a same sort of valve, part no 654935 piaggio. Only the white part is red. But 20 euro cheaper! I gonna get this one. And have a working original white valve in my other mille. So im gonna compare them


yes I think your right the metal valves typically been used to allow fuel tanks to 'breathe', simply put letting air in but no fuel out, I imagine the vacuum generated as fuel is removed from a tank is much less than that created by a 1000cc engine so I'm pretty sure the metal ones will work as per the OE item, time will tell.
But as I've said before this is a bit of an experiment, will the twin vacs generate more vacuum or will the actual vacuum stay the same regardless of the number of feed pipes? and if (and it's a big IF) a little extra vac is gained will this improve the PPC ? again time will tell.   
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mona-toetje View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mona-toetje Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb 2018 at 10:32
Yes dont think the differences are huge between the valves. Most people dont even notice when the valve is broken. I read once in a topic on apriliaforum, from gabro, that adding a second valve woukd increase the vacuum. So the awnser is yes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote budd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb 2018 at 19:08
That's where I read about it to, TBH I don't think it will make a great deal of difference but it's definitely worth a try until the budget stretches to a Sigma, TTS or similar.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote budd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Feb 2018 at 15:26
Well after 10 days of been messed about by an ebay seller the 26mm socket is finally here, I think I should have just gone down to Halfords in the first place. Anyway the missing socket as turned up so I've now got the swing arm out and checked the bearing, the ball bearing one is in excellent condition and still well packed with moly grease, the needle while still in pretty good condition was running quite dry so after a quick clean it's repacked with high spec water resistant synthetic grease ( I have mate who works on trains and over the years he as provided a selection of different spec greases so I now have grease for every occasion, and money is no object when dealing with trains so some of them are silly money to buy). So main swing arm bearings are sorted time to have a look at the lower linkage bearings and these weren't great so I've knocked them out and ordered some replacements. A bit of info re the bearings, the OE spec bearing is a full complement bearing needle roller bearing (this full complement bit means it as no internal cage and twice the number of rollers when compared to a typical aftermarket replacement) The OE bear is a HK1812V while a regular needle roller bearing is simply a HK1812. Now this might be a little controversial but I think the normal HK1812 is more suitable for this application, mainly because it's not a huge load situation and the full complement bearing seems over spec'd for the job the other reason is you can get more grease in a caged bearing. The main reason these bearings fail is due to lack of lubrication (the grease gets washed-out /breaks down over time) so it stands to reason if you can get more grease in there then then the bearing will stay lube'd for longer therefore extending its service life. Anyway bearings/seals ordered from Simply bearings so I'll get the swing arm back in and push the new lower bearings in when they arrive, then the rebuild proper can begin.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stevex Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Feb 2018 at 18:02
Funny, I found the same with the swing arm bearings; balls with loads of moly and needle rollers just caught in time with very little grease.
Still, I reckon I'm the first to have the arm out since it left the factory 14 or so years ago, so can't complain. 
A reminder for those, especially with Gen 1's, if you haven't checked your swing arm bearings, get in there.
People say I don't know Jack Sh1t; but I do, he lives next door.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote budd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Feb 2018 at 18:19
Originally posted by Stevex Stevex wrote:

Funny, I found the same with the swing arm bearings; balls with loads of moly and needle rollers just caught in time with very little grease.
Still, I reckon I'm the first to have the arm out since it left the factory 14 or so years ago, so can't complain. 
A reminder for those, especially with Gen 1's, if you haven't checked your swing arm bearings, get in there.


Yeah I don't think these have seen the light of day in the best part of 17yrs and nearly 38K so as you say can't really complain hopefully be good for another few yrs, although with the link bearings I tend to check and service annually as they seem to be more venerable to water ingress and therefore need to be checked regularly.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote budd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2018 at 14:38
quite a bit of behind the scenes progress as been made since my last post, all suspension removed cleaned, checked, re-greased and refitted only 2 bearings were found to need replacement (swing-arm linkage bearings) I think these are the most vulnerable to all the road crap etc because despite been stripped and re-greased last year along with the others they were showing significantly more signs of wear and tear than the rest. So rear suspension sorted front end was also removed cleaned and refitted, the forks were fully rebuilt last year so they should be fine for another year, the only issue I have with the front end is the locking washer on the head bearings as lost all it's tab so is now a plain washers rather than the locking variety a call to Griff will sort this. Engine oil (& filter) changed Shell Advance AX7 10w40 this year £17.99 for 4 litres from Opieoils result.

Brake calipers stripped cleaned,

DSC_0072

new seals and reassembled

DSC_0073

that's pretty much it for the service related jobs now it time to reassemble the thing in time for April.
So I've wrapped and re-fitted the exhaust, tank is back so hopefully it will fire up, it's always a bit nerve racking firing it up for the first time following big strip down but hopefully it will be fine.
Once it's up and running the rebuild can begin, I need to wire up the new lights, fit the tyres and reinstall the wheels, a quick word re the wheels I'd hope to paint them black to better suit the new paint scheme but I've abandoned this idea due to fears about the paint adhering correctly to the anodised finish. I did some research and there seems to be 2 schools of thought one is you can simply scotch the wheel and paint normally the other suggests you need a chromatic etch primer, I decide to do a little test and scotched a small section of the inner rim, applied some clear-coat and it looked great the clear coat really made the OE blue anodised finish really pop,

DSC_0071

unfortunately once cured I could scratch the clear off with my nails,

DSC_0074

so it seems simply scotching and applying the paint isn't viable and it does need some sort of etch primer to allow the paint to 'stick' correctly so while I've not totally given up on the gloss black wheels I've decided to leave alone for the time been and fit the new tyres, I'll probably revisit this at a later date.
The tyres are going back on the rims today so should have the wheels back in tomorrow, then I need to bleed the brakes and decide on brake pads, I've used SBS RS pads for years and to be honest can't really fault them, so I'll probably go for the same again, although I do fancy giving the Brembo sports compound ago so may try these but still undecided.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stevex Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2018 at 19:57
Why not get the wheels blasted, that'd be more than enough to key the surface?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote budd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2018 at 22:00
Yes that's an option along with chemical stripping and power coating but it means more expense inc new bearings etc, I'm fitting the tyres tomorrow so I'll leave as is for the moment and see what it looks like with the blue wheels I can always change it later if I'm not happy how it looks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote badapple Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Mar 2018 at 01:19
Nearly there budd I think you've made the right decision on the wheels I think it will look great can't wait to see the final build
I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote budd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Mar 2018 at 15:07
tyres on, gone for Dunlop D211 GP Racers, soft compound front, endurance rear (180/55) pop the wheels back in later bleed brakes then I need a gallon of fuel to start her up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote budd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar 2018 at 14:56
well the end of the project is in sight, petrol added and after a bit of stopping and starting bike fired up and seems to be running fine, it's always a bit of a tense moment firing something up after stripping it down and adding quite a few new parts but the signs are positive and hopefully a test ride will reveal all is well.
So engine running, tyres fitted, wheels back in, brakes reassembled and bled, all the service parts fitted, lights fitted and working there are now only a few little jobs to do so I'm on target for taxing it 1st April, although it will likely pee it down all April so how much riding I'll get done remains to be seen but at least it will be ready.
I'm particularly pleased with how the rear light as turned out, and looks made for the job

only issue is the rear brake light switch is inop so I'll need to replace that at some point, I have one somewhere so I'll have to have root round and see if I can locate it, not that it's much of a problem the brake light is working via the front brake so it will be OK for the time been, I could really do with sorting out a no plate light but my friendly MOTer doesn't seem to bothered about it's absence so I leave it for later.
Most of the paint is now done (just got the nose cone to clear-coat, I ended up have to repaint it as the lines I'd painted were in the wrong place one side went under the mirror the other didn't !!! Once that's finished I can fit and line up the headlight, it's all wired up just needs aligning before I bond it in.
So I'm now on to final finishing bits and bobs colour sanding the paint and adding some stickers, I love doing the stickers and have combined some RSV4 and BMW S1000RR graphics to make some nice OE looking RSV1000R decals for the side fairings, the red on the V and R is reflective so produces a nice effect when light is shone on it, I tempted to use white reflective vinyl for the belly pan graphics but I'm not sure it would be a bit to flashy ??


you can just about see the V and R glowing in the above pic, but when I shine a light on them in the dark garage they really pop. Next stickers are going to include some 'superleggera' text not sure where yet but I've got some chrome vinyl and they look really good, it's difficult to see the chrome effect from the pics but I think they'll look great against the red paint work.



hopefully next pics will be of the finished item,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote longer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar 2018 at 15:00
Its looking really good, been enjoying following this one and am looking forward to seeing the finished pics! Keep up the good work!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote redratbike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar 2018 at 16:04
Looking good sir!!!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote budd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Mar 2018 at 17:00
First ride yesterday not far because it’s not taxed and I believe the plod have the power to seize untaxed vehicles and while it is insured and MOT’d I didn’t want to give them any excuse to stop me so just a few miles to give it a bit of a shake down. And all was pretty good, engine felt fine, handling felt fine also, bearing in mind this was just a potter around the block so not exactly representative I’m sure any issues (if indeed there are any) will show up once it goes on a proper ride out. It wasn’t all perfect though a couple of little niggles namely the speedo and brake light aren’t working. I suppose you expect minor little issues when the thing has been stripped down and it’s nothing serious so overall I’m pretty happy. Anyway managed to sort the speedo almost straight away, I was thinking about it last night, I’d removed , cleaned and refitted the speed sensor and the rear brake mount and everything looked fine no obvious damaged so what else had I done??? Then I remembered I’d swapped the rear brake disc bolts for SS cap screws maybe the speed sensor (which is a simple hall sensor) wasn’t picking them up, so I swapped them back to the OE bolts and sure enough the speedo is cured so nice simple fix, I haven’t had a look at the brake light yet but it was definitely working on Sat so I’m hoping that too is something simple.

So that’s just about it now all I have left to do in fit the headlight, I’ll take it down to my mate who happens to be a bike MOT tester I can use his headlight alignment thingy bob to get the level something like before bonding it in, new brakes pads will go in next week I’ll have a run out with the old pads in then swap to the new ones, this should clean the discs up[ a bit and minimise the risk of contamination, I’ve cleaned the discs with brake cleaner and given them a wipe but it won’t hurt to let the old pads freshen up the surface.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote longer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Mar 2018 at 17:18
Any more pics??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jollygiant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Mar 2018 at 20:53
Originally posted by budd budd wrote:




 

What you need is one of these...


Check out my pre-preg carbon fibre
www.jollyscarbon.co.uk
www.facebook.com/jollyscarbon
www.instagram.com/jollyscarbon

Has done The Ring…..Slowly but I did it!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote budd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Mar 2018 at 09:22
Originally posted by Jollygiant Jollygiant wrote:

Originally posted by budd budd wrote:




 


What you need is one of these...




No I definitely DON'T want one of those, it's the thin end of the wedge, I'd then think well I now need a carbon exhaust hanger, carbon chain guard, and it would never stop   
Seriously though I am tempted it would look really nice although once the no plate is on the scuffing on the alloy one isn't visible so it's not on my immediate 'to do 'list but you may well have a PM at some point.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote badapple Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Mar 2018 at 11:33
Looking great budd pleased the initial test run went well.
I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote budd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Mar 2018 at 14:41
Originally posted by badapple badapple wrote:

Looking great budd pleased the initial test run went well.


yes it's good to get the first ride out of the way with no serious issues, I'm always a little nervy first time out after it's been in bits and it's been in quite few bits !!!, both obvious issues found on test run now sorted, in-op speedo was caused by me using stainless (non magnetic) cap screws on the rear brake disc (schoolboy error), faulty brake light turned out to be both the front and rear switches, the front wasn't working due to a failed soldered joint where the OE plug was attached to the RSC M/C wiring, at the rear the actual switch had failed, what are the chances of having faults in both? Anyway fixed now.
Pics to follow once I get the head light bonded in and the nose cone back on.    
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote budd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2018 at 17:55
First ride out today, taxed it on Sun and it snowed !! Typical so had to wait till today managed half an hour or so weather still not good for bikes roads patchy wet so only very steady even then had a big slide passing a white van, back wheel span up and snapped the bike sideways kicking me up out of the seat, cold tyre, poor road conditions whatever, but it would have been a shame to put all the work in only to throw it down the road 1st ride out !! luckily managed to keep it upright but it got my attention for sure.
Well here she is :
















The point of the exercise was to firstly lighten the bike and add a little more power and change the appearance a bit while retaining all the stock bodywork to return to stock if neccessary.
Current spec is :
'01 RSV 'R', Stock engine internals with, 57mm TBs, Renegade carbon air tray, Tuono long velocity stacks, Modd'd collector, Akra Ti race can/ 60mm Ti link pipe, FR200 Eprom, PC3 custom mapped by PCR performance.
Full lightweight GRP bodywork solo rear sub frame, single projector headlight and LED stop/tail.
Brembo RCS 19 brake M/C, SBS Race Sinter pads, goodridge hoses and Motul RBF660 fluid.
Dunlop Sportmax D211 GP racer tyres (120/70 soft front - 180/55 med rear) 16t Talon front sprocket, 44 Talon rear.
Now I just need some nice weather so I can give her a proper run out.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote constant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2018 at 18:32
absolutely cracking job you done there budd you will be getting plenty o looks out on it 
thanks for posting the build im sure everybody was looking forward for the end result
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote redratbike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2018 at 20:02
should be prod of yourself there looks aceClapClapClapClapClapClap
all ideas stolen ha ha ..
.
I'm going to rebuild the mille and I am going to do exactly what you have done , race bodywork etc
 
I already have the projector what bulbs are you running in that?
 
I've had the read spin up a couple times in the damp sure wakes you up especillay when it kicks sideways...yeehaa ride em cowboy!!!
 
 iremeber you were going to cut out the side panels and fit carbon items (they are still in the car boot!!) but the bikes looks better for the all white insertsThumbs Up


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