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Brake light not working - Gen 2

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Category: RSV / RSVR / FACTORY
Forum Name: Technical Chat
Forum Description: Any technical problems or useful advise for other owners, remember this is just advice posted here, if you make something go BANG in a big way don't take anyone to court about it.
URL: http://www.rsvr.net/forum_posts.asp?TID=28637
Printed Date: 28 Mar 2024 at 15:15
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Topic: Brake light not working - Gen 2
Posted By: Dcx
Subject: Brake light not working - Gen 2
Date Posted: 04 Jul 2020 at 10:02
This is my 1st post (after lurking for a while).

My brake light isn't working on my '05 RSV R gen 2, neither front lever nor rear pedal get it to function, I have checked the 5A fuse & that's ok (changed just in case). 
I have disconnected the upper connector just before the brake light (in the tail unit) and got a reading of 14v between the yellow & blue wires with the brakes off? I assumed this would mean the brake light would be permanently on (unless it was permanently on & has blown the light because of this)?
     
Any advice would be appreciated.

Dave



Replies:
Posted By: Spoonz
Date Posted: 04 Jul 2020 at 11:38
Which yellow wire ? There should be a yellow and green and yellow and gray to the tail light assy. ?


Posted By: Dcx
Date Posted: 04 Jul 2020 at 13:21
Sorry yes it is the 3 way connector but colours are yellow/green - earth, yellow into connector / grey out & blue in & out.  


Posted By: Spoonz
Date Posted: 04 Jul 2020 at 15:29
Blue is the earth and yellow/green is your brake light feed. If those 2 have 12v across them your brake light has failed or there is break beyond the connector. 


Posted By: Dcx
Date Posted: 04 Jul 2020 at 19:54
Hi Spoonz
I can't easily get to the terminals in the light to check for broke wires.   
With the ignition on I'm getting the following:-
Yellow/Grey to Yellow/Green open circuit 0v
Yellow/Grey to Blue 11.3v
Yellow/Green to Blue 11.3v 
but holding in/pressing the brake lever/pedal doesn't make any difference?

With the ignition ON all wire show continuity to earth / frame?
With the ignition OFF Yellow/Green doesn't show continuity to the frame but Yellow/Grey & Blue still show continuity.

Again any help would be appreciated.
Dave


Posted By: Spoonz
Date Posted: 04 Jul 2020 at 20:19
You must have a stuck on brake switch but your brake light is duff also. A reading to ground depends on the range you have the meter on and what your measuring.  If the range is high enough virtually everything has a reading to ground. 

In the instance of the rear light your reading across diodes Which is a semiconductor so depending on the polarity of your probes they will read low to ground one way and higher the other. Readings to ground are only a problem if it shows a dead short or close too. 


Posted By: Dcx
Date Posted: 04 Jul 2020 at 21:58
Ok thanks
I did wonder if an always on switch could blow the light 

Spoonz
I'm using the buzzer on the multi meter to check continuity from the 3 way connector to the frame, with the fly lead to the rear light disconnected.

I'm not to sure what resistance range I should be using to check the light but I'm not getting 'buzzer' continuity between any combination of the 3 terminals (by comparison when checking the rear position light I'm am getting buzzer continuity between those 2 terminals).

Looks like it's one of switches.
Thanks Dave

 


Posted By: Spoonz
Date Posted: 04 Jul 2020 at 23:16
A meter buzzer just checks for conductivity which is not Ideal for troubleshooting in circuit etc. It can take a fairly high resistance for it to consider a reading as non conductive so in the case of the rear light connector your probably reading across the front lights to ground which share the same feed.  

The buzzer or diode checker as it’s generally called is really for reading out of circuit items so it doesn’t detect conductivity across other in circuit items. 


Posted By: Rich Simpson
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2020 at 12:10
I'm a simpleton when it comes to electrics, so I keep it simple.

Get a long piece of wire. Run it direct from the + terminal on the battery to as close as you can get to the lamps on the live feed to the spotlights.

If the lights don't come on, then you know the problem is in the rear lamp housing (which it probably is). Take it to bits, clean it, and see if that works.

If they do come on, then the problem is somewhere else. So I'd next try in turn connecting the wire to the live feed to each of the stoplamp switches. If that doesn't isolate the problem, then work your way 'up' the feeds until you find it (ie the lamps don't work).

Multimeters are mostly just confusing. Watts an amp?



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