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RSV superleggera project

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Topic: RSV superleggera project
Posted By: budd
Subject: RSV superleggera project
Date Posted: 13 Nov 2017 at 19:32
Time for a new project I think, towards the end of the summer I seriously considered selling my '01 RSV 'R' in fact I went as for as advertising it !!, I really fancied either a KTM RC8R or a S1000RR, but with a budget restricted to around £6K I realised I'd be buying from the cheap end of the market, potentially problematic high mileage, unloved examples, I did some research on both bikes and even looked at a couple, the research revealed both were prone to problems with the KTM gearbox's, snatchy engine and general poor build dominate the forums you seem to get either a good one or a dog, it seems a bit of a lottery. Even the BMs aren't without issues, electrical mainly but some disturbing reports of early bikes rod bolts coming lose !!My problem was I'd skint myself to buy one so any problems I'd probably not be able to afford to fix them as newer bikes and especially the BM are very complicated and the electrics are pretty much a dealer only fix so even minor issues can be very expensive to sort out. In the end I saw sense and decided to keep the RSV but give it a bit of a make over.
So why 'superleggera' ? well apart from sounding cool it means superlight and one of my project aims was to 'add lightness' so it seemed apt. Superleggera while literally meaning superlight actually relates to a construction technology developed in the mid 30s by Italian coachmakers Carrozzeria Touring, and was basically a framework of small diameter tubes covered with a beaten alloy skin, no I don't propose to rebuild the RSV in this fashion but I'm definitely aiming to get it a little lighter.
So here we have perfectly good and usable '01 RSV 'R',
https://flic.kr/p/GyfMJz" rel="nofollow"> https://flic.kr/p/GyfMJz" rel="nofollow - rsv2_zps94da31b4

I've had it 3 yrs and it's been great, very well built and so far totally reliable, I've tried to keep it well serviced and look after it, it's only mods are FR100 chip, Blue Flame Ti can and a K&N filter, so when I decidered I was keeping it I thought a bit of a fettle was in order.
About 6 weeks ago I SORN'd it and started looking for parts, the plan was to replace all the bodywork with GRP both to save weight and to allow me to bubble wrap the OE kit and store it safely away, I also wanted to increase power a little. Now I didn't really want to change anything that couldn't be changed back, I like the idea of been able to return it to stock if necessary.

This the bike today, looking a little different...
https://flic.kr/p/21pDU8Y" rel="nofollow"> https://flic.kr/p/21pDU8Y" rel="nofollow - DSC_0566

https://flic.kr/p/21pDToG" rel="nofollow"> https://flic.kr/p/21pDToG" rel="nofollow - DSC_0567

https://flic.kr/p/21pDSuN" rel="nofollow"> https://flic.kr/p/21pDSuN" rel="nofollow - DSC_0568

so far I've got full race fairings/ tank etc fitted lining up the race fairings and dzus fasteners was a pain the fairings certainly aren't factory quality, anyway all now on and reasonably straight next job is lights and final preping for paint, under the skin is a renegade style carbon air tray, 57mm TB's, Edwards tubes, modded collector, Ti Akra can with 60mm link pipe, FR200 chip along with a PC3 custom mapped by PCR Performance all this is on and running, one of the nicest parts is the Brembo RCS 19 master cyl it's just lovely,

https://flic.kr/p/21pDRK1" rel="nofollow"> https://flic.kr/p/21pDRK1" rel="nofollow - DSC_0569

although it does hit the dash at full lock, so I'll have to find a solution to that maybe move the clocks a little. Over the next few weeks I'll be busy sorting the lights out and getting it painted, it will be having a small projector headlight and probably a simple LED brake/tail light this means it will have to have a day time MOT but I can't remember the last time I rode in the proper dark.

Further plans lightweight lithium ion battery, maybe a quick action throttle and of course I'd really like a slipper clutch but it's a fair wad of cash, it's on my wish list I'll just have to see if funds allow, other than that it will be largely just routine servicing, oil filter, coolant, brake strip and rebuild new pads, linkages/bearings stripping and re-greasing finished off with some nice sticky tyres and hopefully all completed for April next year.
   
   



Replies:
Posted By: longer
Date Posted: 13 Nov 2017 at 19:50
Looks good, what are you thinking of doing with the paint?


Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 13 Nov 2017 at 20:01
Along the lines of the Ducati superleggera  simple red and white black wheels.


Posted By: 426hemi
Date Posted: 13 Nov 2017 at 20:13
The rcs will make a big difference and redrat on here makes bigger lock stops to stop it hitting the clocks.


Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 13 Nov 2017 at 20:27
How do modded lock stops work? Do you thread the headstock?


Posted By: redratbike
Date Posted: 13 Nov 2017 at 20:31
No they have an offset hole so like a cam you can move it to a position to suit

Let me go find a link

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www.apriliaforum.co.uk
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Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 13 Nov 2017 at 20:33
Yep I see how that would work šŸ‘


Posted By: redratbike
Date Posted: 13 Nov 2017 at 20:35
Originally posted by budd budd wrote:

Yep I see how that would work šŸ‘
http://www.rsvr.net/redratbike-adjustable-lockstops_topic24058.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.rsvr.net/redratbike-adjustable-lockstops_topic24058.html

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www.apriliaperformance.co.uk
www.apriliaforum.co.uk
www.apriliaownersclub.co.uk


Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 15 Nov 2017 at 21:20
Cheers something like that is just what I need šŸ‘


Posted By: badapple
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2017 at 02:23
Good luck with the build looking forward to seeing how it all comes together. The front end looks very R1m with the track fairing fitted.

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I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left


Posted By: bladebod
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2017 at 11:41
Good luck there is another (massive) post on here from a member who is taking the whole weight thing ultra serious, its an interesting read...


Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2017 at 16:13
Originally posted by badapple badapple wrote:

Good luck with the build looking forward to seeing how it all comes together. The front end looks very R1m with the track fairing fitted.


I was expecting it to look more bulbous without the headlight and no stripes etc but it's not that bad and your right it does have a look of the R1m although I think most bikes look similar without a race nosecone. Once it gets some paint on it the look will change, the R1m's tend to be finished in dark colours or indeed bare carbon, the RSV will be a bit brighter.


Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2017 at 16:34
Originally posted by bladebod bladebod wrote:

Good luck there is another (massive) post on here from a member who is taking the whole weight thing ultra serious, its an interesting read...


yes I've read the thread, 'speciale' I think it is, it's a mega project and very interesting reading and IIRC the aim is 180kg !! pity most of the pics are no longer visible. Mine will be nowhere near that weight although even now I can feel the difference just pushing it round it feels less top heavy and just more manageable. I haven't measured the weight loss so far but there has to be a worthwhile saving in the bodywork the headlight alone is a pretty hefty unit plus a lithium ion battery is around 2kg lighter. If I can save 10kgs I think it will be noticeable.   


Posted By: Diablo
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2017 at 13:21
Looks great budd. I always think that the shape of those 01/02 race seats look spot on and nicer than the standard road going shape.

I was doing a similar thing with the race fairing and small projector headlight, but when the fairings arrived, the upper was too lovely to cut!! (in CF)

So I ordered a road going version,  the manufacturer gave me a blinding deal, because of the other bits I'd had off him. So I stuck an hid low beam and led high beams in the road version with a h/l cover and left the race one unmolested.

The "daytime MOT" is an advisory, saying no lights fitted at the time of test. You have to be home 30 mins before sunset, I think, or you turn into a pumpkin, or zombie or something. I was led to believe that it's either all lights fitted or none at all. So to use a race upper on the road, without a headlight -I'd have to take off, or tape up the other lights. But surely this doesn't apply to you, if you're having a small dual beam projector and small led rear light? You'll have lights fitted, so no need for the "daytime mot"?

The front looks well cool with the racing upper. I've resisted the urge to put the baffles/ears on mine so far, thought it looks sleeker without, but might put them on the road fairing. Can't make up my mind.

Keep us posted Thumbs Up


 


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Question everything.


Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2017 at 13:40
I was speaking to my MOT tester yesterday he happens to be a good mate of mine so it won't be a problem either way, I'm thinking of just going with the normal MOT.
I did quite like the idea of no lights apparently all you're legally required to have is an horn, so you can ride with no lights whatsoever but I think it's to dangerous and I think it would result in constant attention for the old bill.
So it's going to have lights and indicators, mainly for my own safety (have you ever ridden a bike without indicators? it's not a great experience)and a front light makes you so much more visible to brain dead drivers daydreaming along, so even if the lights aren't 'factory' it still has some, if I get a pull I don't think it's something they'll be to concerned about plus they are more likely to me moaning about the 'race' Akra and black visor.



re the seat I was going to fit the Gen 2 seat but the fairings came with a matching seat so I thought I may as well use it, I've also got a CF early Gen 1 seat so I'll probably spray both and see which I like best.
   


Posted By: Diablo
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2017 at 14:32
Ridden bikes with no lights at all and no mirrors on the road. Both yam LC proddy rep's and a couple of road reg'ed moto crossers. This was back in the 80's and 90's though, less traffic -not a pleasant experience, as it's like having some of your senses cut off. Still one is invincible when young. Would I do it today? I doubt it. If I did, it would be with some bright led's velcro'ed beneath the upper or something. But then I'd be breaking the law doing so. I'm all for visibility, I find defensive riding is what saves your life though. You could have a lighthouse strapped to the front of your bike and some drivers wouldn't see you. They even pull out whilst looking directly at you ffs! Polite vest anyone? LOL


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Question everything.


Posted By: Mr Miller
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2017 at 15:34
Yep .. ye can have the fastest road bike in the world legal
during the hours of daylight .. mechanically motable
plus a horn and a number plate with a reflector bottom middle ..
I`m ok without lights and indicators .. it`s no plod spotters I hate .    

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If you find us in a hedge check the bike first please .. I`m free on the NHS...


Posted By: 426hemi
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2017 at 16:37
Daylight mot for my gixxer, only horn, speedo and mirrors going on it.


Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2017 at 16:38
Originally posted by Diablo Diablo wrote:

Ridden bikes with no lights at all and no mirrors on the road. Both yam LC proddy rep's and a couple of road reg'ed moto crossers. This was back in the 80's and 90's though, less traffic -not a pleasant experience, as it's like having some of your senses cut off. Still one is invincible when young. Would I do it today? I doubt it. If I did, it would be with some bright led's velcro'ed beneath the upper or something. But then I'd be breaking the law doing so. I'm all for visibility, I find defensive riding is what saves your life though. You could have a lighthouse strapped to the front of your bike and some drivers wouldn't see you. They even pull out whilst looking directly at you ffs! Polite vest anyone? LOL


Yes riding in the 80s -90s was very a different experince, I had n FZR 600 back in the the late 80s with just a stop/tail light, no headlight, indicators mirrors etc (not really through choice Iā€™d smashed it up and could afford the replacements so put a GRP fairing and seat on it) it wasnā€™t really a problem in those days much less traffic and TBH I couldnā€™t give a flying F%%k about other road users back then, we used to ride in a pack all idiots together.
I look back now at some of the antics and wander how I survived, mind you I didnā€™t got off totally unscathed and ended up with a few visits to A&E and numerous weeks in hospital, I still have the false knee and scars as a permanent reminder of those ā€™good timesā€™, every time weā€™d go out thereā€™d be some sort of incident. My sense of self-preservation as changed over the years so nowadays I definitely wouldnā€™t fancy riding without lights and indicators these and while your right defensive riding is the best weapon against braindead car drivers it doesnā€™t hurt to improve your visibility.



Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2017 at 16:47
Originally posted by 426hemi 426hemi wrote:

Daylight mot for my gixxer, only horn, speedo and mirrors going on it.


You're a braver man than me, my bottle must have gone because I just wouldn't feel comfortable without indicators and lights, the chances of getting rear ended at a junction must increase dramatically without indicators or a stop/tail, at least you'll be able to see them coming the mirrors and brace for impact.


Posted By: 426hemi
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2017 at 17:25
It will be a summer morning only bike and I go out at sunrise.


Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2017 at 17:33
Originally posted by 426hemi 426hemi wrote:

It will be a summer morning only bike and I go out at sunrise.


and back for brekkie before all the Sunday drivers come out


Posted By: Stevex
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2017 at 18:40
Surely even a daytime MoT requires a brake light?
Suicide not to...



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People say I don't know Jack Sh1t; but I do, he lives next door.


Posted By: Mr Miller
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2017 at 18:47
It`s crazy .. all or nothing for daytime mot with lights .. got one
ye need em all .. can always go daytime mot then rig a brake light
when you get home ..

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If you find us in a hedge check the bike first please .. I`m free on the NHS...


Posted By: 426hemi
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2017 at 19:42
If they can see your brake light your riding to slow


Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2017 at 22:06
it is a bit crazy that's why I'm opting for 'basic' lighting, small (60mm) projector headlight (so they can see me coming), led stop/tail and indicators to show I'm slowing or where I'm going.
While the responsibility shouldn't be on the bike rider to make themselves visible, drivers should be alert and watching what they are doing (not on the phone or slapping kids about) it makes sense to at least show a bright headlight and indicate your intention to stop or make a turn.   


Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 08 Dec 2017 at 18:12
Made some progress over the last few weeks, all the induction mods are now complete, 57mm TBs, carbon air tray, Tuono stacks, FR200 Eprom, PC3 with custom map, all this is on and itā€™s running, hopefully will only need minor tweaks prior to finally getting it on the road.

Iā€™ve removed the modded collector so it can be wrapped I was thinking about having it ceramic coated but in the end I couldnā€™t justify the cost, sure it looks good and from what gather works very well but for a few quid I can wrap it and achieve similar results. Iā€™ve also sorted the Brembo MC which was fouling the dash/relays on lock, rather than alter the lock stops I decided to move the dash forward a little it only needed Ā½ā€ or so, it now clears without compromising the turning circle.

Iā€™ve also being busy with the bodywork, prepping GRP is a proper pain particularly used ex race stuff, there are stress cracks, chips and previously repaired damage to deal with, the problem is you think it looks something like but as soon as you put some paint on and more imperfections seem to appear, Iā€™m not after a ā€™ concourseā€™ finish but I want it to be tidy, itā€™s now getting there, with only a few bits to rework, a couple of small sections of tail piece have been very frustrating, got it all flatted off and primed it only to see sections react to the paint, so flat again re-prime same again, same place same re-action, Iā€™ve sorted it now but it took some curing, I think whatā€™s happened is there have been some hairline cracks in the gel coat which have absorbed some kind of contaminant, which was causing a reaction with the paint, so I ended up grinding out enough of the gel-coat to remove whatever was causing the problem then filling and sanding back, this seems to have cured it, so If the weather is OK tomorrow I should be able to make a start getting some colour on it.

When I bought the bodywork it didnā€™t come with the air tube inners which you need to hang all the fairing from, I didnā€™t want to paint my OE yellow ones so I needed some replacements in order to proceed with the paint, redrat came to the rescue here with a decent used pair, many thanks Mark. Iā€™ve now got most of it in primer and ready for some colour, I say most because Iā€™m waiting for the projector headlight to arrive, found a 60mm hi/lo projector lens for £10.50, bargain!! but until this arrives the nose will have to wait. I have managed to sort the rear lights, Ebay again provided a solution, after measuring the available space on the tailpiece and checking sizes of various light units on Ebay I came across a LED stop/tail that is just the job, itā€™s an aftermarket LED rear reflector for a VW T5 van that contains stop and tail functions in one unit.
Iā€™ll post up same pics of the progress tomorrow.




Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2017 at 14:17
Made some more progress, after much searching ordered a projector headlight, hi/low beam 60mm for the bargain price of £9.99 delivered !!!

https://flic.kr/p/Ep7ZRq" rel="nofollow"> https://flic.kr/p/Ep7ZRq" rel="nofollow - DSC_0012

I really donā€™t know how they can produce and deliver it for under a tenner, I was expecting it to take a few weeks to arrive from China but it arrived in 3 days !! So now I need to get headlight into this.
https://flic.kr/p/CTfTAk" rel="nofollow"> https://flic.kr/p/CTfTAk" rel="nofollow - DSC_0019

There is a site (motoforza IIRC) that supply a mounting tube for just this purpose and at £10 not unreasonably priced but when you add the postage £25 plus the VAT it starts to get quite expensive and there wasnā€™t anything else I really wanted to add to the purchase and make the postage worthwhile so I decided to make my own. The actual lens is 60mm but including itā€™s shroud itā€™s 64mm so I needed a 64mm tube to bond into the GRP fairing, so after wandering around the house and garage measuring everything cylindrical bottles of water/shampoo, bog roll tubes, various tin cans in fact I checked all manor of packaging looking for that illusive 64mm diameter, the winner turned out to be a wine bottle!!

https://flic.kr/p/Ep7YUW" rel="nofollow"> https://flic.kr/p/Ep7YUW" rel="nofollow - DSC_0011

The wife just happened to have such a bottle laying about so with bottle in hand I set about making a suitable receptacle for my nice new headlight. First I coated the glass with wax ( Colonite insulator wax makes a great release agent) then painted on a couple of coats of polyester resin once that had cured a couple of layers of fine glass fibre matting, let this go off and then run the disc cutter down it and remove, and we have one GRP headlight mount, total cost probably about 50p the only downside is the missus guzzled all the wine.

https://flic.kr/p/21bzMJv" rel="nofollow"> https://flic.kr/p/21bzMJv" rel="nofollow - DSC_0016
https://flic.kr/p/Ep7XgA" rel="nofollow"> https://flic.kr/p/Ep7XgA" rel="nofollow - DSC_0015

Iā€™d decided to mount the light offset to the right hand side so I worked out where I wanted it and cut a hole then glassed it in and trimmed it down, now it just needs prepping for paint.

https://flic.kr/p/21rHgBj" rel="nofollow"> https://flic.kr/p/21rHgBj" rel="nofollow - DSC_0029

https://flic.kr/p/21rHh5d" rel="nofollow"> https://flic.kr/p/21rHh5d" rel="nofollow - DSC_0028

https://flic.kr/p/21rHhy9" rel="nofollow"> https://flic.kr/p/21rHhy9" rel="nofollow - DSC_0027

The rear light was a similar process, find something that was a suitable size and shape and then buy and make it fit. Again Ebay to the rescue, after a bit of searching LED lights I stumbled on a something that looked like it may do the job, it is a rear reflector for a VW T5 van, it turns out the new fad is to illuminate these bumper mounted reflectors to include stop and tail light, again bargain priced at £12 for a pair.

https://flic.kr/p/21rHgaN" rel="nofollow"> https://flic.kr/p/21rHgaN" rel="nofollow - DSC_0030

https://flic.kr/p/21rHhUQ" rel="nofollow"> https://flic.kr/p/21rHhUQ" rel="nofollow - DSC_0024

a bit of cutting filling and fettling itā€™s fitted and I have say I think it looks quite good, thereā€™s a touch of Yamaha about, so thatā€™s the lights sorted.


Next job is to start the painting, here itā€™s been 1 step forward and 2 steps back, Iā€™d decided red/white and black along the lines of a limited edition Panigale, first I prepped the belly pan, tank, side panels and air ducts, filled where necessary, sanded, primed, flatted ready for paint. Now one of the issues it me being a tight bastard I already had a litre of Ford Radiant Red so I thought that will do, I also had some Nissan white but this just looked a bit grey so I decided to get some ā€š ā€™whiter whiteā€™ so I ordered Ā½ litre of Arctic white and also a Ā½ lire of jet black, I normally used 2K basecoat and lacquer so I ordered the white and black in this form. Then discovered the Radiant Red was 2K enamel (which doesnā€™t require the clearcoat) not the end of the world but itā€™s not best practice to mix systems, it just means Iā€™ll have to flat the red back and clear coat the lot so itā€™s a little bit more work and care as to be taken when painting one over the other as the enamel if not fully cured can react with when you paint over it. So the first coat would be white basecoat with the red over the top and white with black over the top on the belly pan, so white on and dried black on the belly pan and looking good.   The first real problem (my cock up really) came when I decided to use masking tape to mask the lines on the side panels and tank , why I did this Iā€™ve no idea particularly when Iā€™ve just used lining tape on the belly pan and tank, anyway the results were predictably not great as the red bled under the masking tape something rotten, bugger !!

https://flic.kr/p/21rHjt1" rel="nofollow"> https://flic.kr/p/21rHjt1" rel="nofollow - DSC_0017
Still the tank came out alright, nice finish no specks to dirt or dust top job then disaster, Iā€™d put the tank on a cardboard box to allow me to paint the underside edges, so I put the halogen light on and go clean the gun then I hear bang, the bloody box as only collapsed and the tank as rolled off the bench onto the garage floor, double bugger !!! so now that needed re-doing along with the side panels, not happy and pretty much a full afternoon wasted, I haven't got a pic of the tank damage because I had to go inside and chill out or something was likely to get broken.
Iā€™ve now got these sorted and I think it's starting to look OK, it will be getting stickered up once the paint is finished.

https://flic.kr/p/21rHizC" rel="nofollow"> https://flic.kr/p/21rHizC" rel="nofollow - DSC_0021

I can now move onto the nose and tail pieces hopefully these will proceed without further issues.

Also got the RCS M/C fitted and created the required clearance between the body of the cylinder and the dash on full lock.

https://flic.kr/p/Ep7W21" rel="nofollow"> https://flic.kr/p/Ep7W21" rel="nofollow - DSC_0020





Posted By: Diablo
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2017 at 17:07
That's looking really good Budd Clap

Are you painting somewhere warm? Cold damp weather not good.

I think you should give yourself a pat on the back, going to be a stunner when you finish that Cool


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Question everything.


Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2017 at 18:50
no not got a proper spray booth just a corner of the garage I've put up some plastic sheeting to contain the spray and keep out the dust (that's why I can only do bits at a time) I can get it fairly warm but not really hot enough (especially in this weather) so I've got an halogen heater to warm the parts once painted, the basecoat goes off pretty quick and once the hardener starts working in the 2K enamel nothing will stop it curing.


Posted By: legend88
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2017 at 20:50
That's gonna look nice that is.  Thumbs Up


Posted By: NickyBoy1984
Date Posted: 16 Dec 2017 at 09:01
Ooooo gonna be good this hehe..!!

NickyBoy

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www.apriliaperformance.co.uk
www.apriliaforum.co.uk
www.apriliaownersclub.co.uk


Posted By: badapple
Date Posted: 26 Dec 2017 at 23:02
Loving it so far keep up the good work.

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I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left


Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2017 at 11:27
Thanks for all the positive comments, no progress to report we are away in the isle of man for Xmas but I'll be back on it when we get back.


Posted By: Tifa
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2017 at 13:42
SUBSCRIBED!

Looks great...love the headlight.


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Posted By: Foo
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2017 at 14:11
how did you sort the clearance issue with the MC, as i have the same issue

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2000 Mille R


Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2017 at 14:59
I'd say there are basically 3 ways to sort the clearance, new dash /clocks, which for me was to expensive/ complicated,  secondly and easiest is to contact redratbike for some of his re-engineered lock stops these are simply a direct replacements for the OE ones that limit the steering lock and gives the required clearance, I didn't want to loose the lock so I found  a 3rd option, and decided to move a the dash a little you don't need much something like 25mm iirc, I made some alloy brackets and trimmed away some of the mount frame to allow the dash to move forward enough for the m/c to clear .I'll post a pic when I get home.


Posted By: Af1
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2018 at 03:09

This is a neat solution, swap over the reservoirs for the hydraulics.



From the front - should miss the clocks (posted by jolly ontinternet )




Posted By: Af1
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2018 at 03:11


Sorry other pic



Looks neat....


Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2018 at 09:15
That does look neat I like the carbon support bracket however it's not the reservoir that causes the problem, the RCS cyl is a different shape to OE and it's the body of the M/C that hits the clocks on full lock, I went for repositioning the clocks a little bit and as said previously the other option is to limit the steering lock.


Posted By: Steve750
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2018 at 19:47
Looking great mate....any more pics? Did you get the wheels painted?


Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2018 at 20:03
not done much since Xmas really repaired the damaged akra can today, a bit of colour sanding now waiting for some Italian green paint I've ordered to arrive so I can add some stripes to give that tricolour effect then it will be clear coated and stickered up.  I haven't made a made a decision re the wheels really I think they would look best  gloss black but then if I wanted to return it to stock is have to repaint them back to OZ blue, so I'm tempted to leave as is for now see how it looks, although I may end up doing them anyway, either way I'll wait till the new tyres go on.
More pics soon šŸ‘


Posted By: Steve750
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2018 at 20:35
Looking forward to the final piece mate šŸ‘šŸ‘

Black wheels will look stunning


Posted By: addiction269
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2018 at 20:35
Where did you get the front lights from?šŸ˜


Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2018 at 20:44
Originally posted by addiction269 addiction269 wrote:

Where did you get the front lights from?šŸ˜

As with most things these days they are from China via eBay, they have Dip/high beam function and take various bulbs (I'm hoping to use a H1 fiment LED ), cost me about a tenner delivered ( no idea how they do them for the money), search projector lens in car parts on eBay.


Posted By: addiction269
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2018 at 21:00
Thanks! Will take a look, Iā€™ve always loved this look.


Posted By: Rybes
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2018 at 21:14
That looks good can't wait to see it finished

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ive just got my first vtwin and i think i got the right one


Posted By: The Shredder
Date Posted: 25 Jan 2018 at 13:08
very neat work of the res tanks mate.


Posted By: Steve750
Date Posted: 25 Jan 2018 at 14:23
More pics šŸ¤—


Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 25 Jan 2018 at 15:14
small update, paint is almost done just needs flatting back and clear coat but the wind as battered my makeshift spray booth so a bit of repair work needed here before the final coats of clear,
Next jobs on my 'to do' list are wire in the lights,wrap the exhaust, replace the swing arm bearings, strip check re grease the lower linkage etc, 16t sprocket, check the coolant system (I found a small amount of coolant in the belly pan so it looks like I've a slight leak/weep from somewhere), then basic stuff like tyres, brakes (new pads, fluid etc) suspension. more pics this weekend,


Posted By: redratbike
Date Posted: 25 Jan 2018 at 22:13
Nice work keep the pics coming

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www.apriliaperformance.co.uk
www.apriliaforum.co.uk
www.apriliaownersclub.co.uk


Posted By: philmille
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2018 at 21:42
Like the way you've moved the reservoirs, what did you get the support bracket??



-------------
PhilMille

01 RSVR

The World is divided into armed camps ready to commit genocide just because we can't agree on whose fairy tales to believe, in the end, Religon will kill us all. Ed Krebs


Posted By: Jollygiant
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2018 at 06:34
Originally posted by philmille philmille wrote:

Like the way you've moved the reservoirs, what did you get the support bracket??

I made them and no I won't be making any to sell.

Originally posted by budd budd wrote:

That does look neat I like the carbon support bracket however it's not the reservoir that causes the problem, the RCS cyl is a different shape to OE and it's the body of the M/C that hits the clocks on full lock, I went for repositioning the clocks a little bit and as said previously the other option is to limit the steering lock.
They are different reservoirs, so therefore fit in there neatly.


-------------
Check out my pre-preg carbon fibre
www.jollyscarbon.co.uk
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Has done The Ringā€¦..Slowly but I did it!!


Posted By: Steve750
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2018 at 18:29
Any more pics mate???

Have you decided on the colour of the wheels?



Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 05 Feb 2018 at 13:31
Originally posted by Steve750 Steve750 wrote:

Any more pics mate???

Have you decided on the colour of the wheels?



i'll go take some more pics, and no can't make my mind up re wheels, I think they would look best black but if I decide to put the OE bodywork back on at some point then I'd need to do them blue again and also do I paint them or have them plastic coasted? also what is the finish on OZ wheels ? are they painted or some other coating the blue finish looks anodised.
I have new tyres ready to go on so I'll make a decision soon.


Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 05 Feb 2018 at 14:32
a few more pics, paint nearly done just need to wet sand to correct any orange peel and other surface imperfections then compound to give it a nice shine.
https://flic.kr/p/K9hzc6" rel="nofollow"> https://flic.kr/p/K9hzc6" rel="nofollow - DSC_0053
I've cut some Aprilia Racing stickers for the side panels and tank, these have been clear coated for protection any other graphics wont be clear coated so I can chop and change them as required.
https://flic.kr/p/231saLq" rel="nofollow"> https://flic.kr/p/231saLq" rel="nofollow - DSC_0056
https://flic.kr/p/K9hAh2" rel="nofollow"> https://flic.kr/p/K9hAh2" rel="nofollow - DSC_0052
Bike is in bits now and I'm working through the service stuff, oil is out,
https://flic.kr/p/231sbhf" rel="nofollow"> https://flic.kr/p/231sbhf" rel="nofollow - DSC_0055
rear suspension is off 'dog bone' beaings are all re-greased ready for reassembly
https://flic.kr/p/231s9mb" rel="nofollow"> https://flic.kr/p/231s9mb" rel="nofollow - DSC_0063    
next job is the remove the swingarm but I don't seem to have a 26mm socket for and swingarm nut, I've got the castle nut off but can't get the 26mm nut off, I have a 26mm socket on order so as soon as that arrives I'll whip the swinger off check bearings replacing if necessary.
https://flic.kr/p/231s9Mw" rel="nofollow"> https://flic.kr/p/231s9Mw" rel="nofollow - DSC_0060

another little job I've done is to replace the PPC one way valve with a pair of one way valves T'd into the original pipes, I had a spare vac source on the 57mm TBs so I thought rather than cap it I'd put it to use, not sure if it will have any effect on the PPC but i don't think it could do any harm.
https://flic.kr/p/231sagN" rel="nofollow"> https://flic.kr/p/231sagN" rel="nofollow - DSC_0058



Posted By: Steve750
Date Posted: 05 Feb 2018 at 14:55
That's looking amazing. Your doing a great job with the maintaining too....Well done mate


Posted By: bladebod
Date Posted: 05 Feb 2018 at 16:40
Good work, should look a belter when its done.


Posted By: Diablo
Date Posted: 05 Feb 2018 at 19:27
Coming out very nice. Loving the paint and nose fairing Thumbs Up


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Question everything.


Posted By: Af1
Date Posted: 05 Feb 2018 at 22:02

I don't understand why you would change from the fastest colour to one that is at least 10 mph slower.....

Great build


Posted By: mona-toetje
Date Posted: 06 Feb 2018 at 11:00
Looking nice. What one way valves are you using?


Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 06 Feb 2018 at 11:55
Originally posted by Af1 Af1 wrote:


I don't understand why you would change from the fastest colour to one that is at least 10 mph slower.....

Great build


I thought bit only fair given the tuning bits and bobs to restrict it a little with the 'slow red' livery, 'fast yellow' would have been to much for me to manage


Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 06 Feb 2018 at 11:58
Originally posted by mona-toetje mona-toetje wrote:

Looking nice. What one way valves are you using?


just some I picked up from ebay couple of quid each, look better quality than the OE plastic one.


Posted By: mona-toetje
Date Posted: 06 Feb 2018 at 14:30
Allright. Was thinking to do the same. But would there be a difference in the specs of the valves? Like, how strong the springs in the valve are


Posted By: mona-toetje
Date Posted: 06 Feb 2018 at 14:33
Dont know what the opening pressure is of the oem ppc valve. And if you have 2 valves that would need more pressure?


Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 06 Feb 2018 at 16:16
I've blown through them and I can't feel any difference not a scientific test by any means I know but you can blow them easily no apparent resistance, so I see no reason it won't work like the OE one.
The whole thing is just a bit of an experiment really, not that I'm claiming any credit for the mod it's something I'd read about previously.
TBH I'd not given it much thought because the plan was to fit a proper slipper clutch (still is the plan once funds allow)so hopefully it's really only a temp measure. And ultimately if it causes problems I'll just return it back to stock.


Posted By: mona-toetje
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2018 at 09:19
Yes I understand. I did some more research. The metal types are usually diesel/petrol valves. Which need more pressure. The ones aprilia use, have a rubber flapper inside. Which require very little pressure. I found that piaggio scooters use a same sort of valve, part no 654935 piaggio. Only the white part is red. But 20 euro cheaper! I gonna get this one. And have a working original white valve in my other mille. So im gonna compare them


Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2018 at 09:45
Originally posted by mona-toetje mona-toetje wrote:

Yes I understand. I did some more research. The metal types are usually diesel/petrol valves. Which need more pressure. The ones aprilia use, have a rubber flapper inside. Which require very little pressure. I found that piaggio scooters use a same sort of valve, part no 654935 piaggio. Only the white part is red. But 20 euro cheaper! I gonna get this one. And have a working original white valve in my other mille. So im gonna compare them


yes I think your right the metal valves typically been used to allow fuel tanks to 'breathe', simply put letting air in but no fuel out, I imagine the vacuum generated as fuel is removed from a tank is much less than that created by a 1000cc engine so I'm pretty sure the metal ones will work as per the OE item, time will tell.
But as I've said before this is a bit of an experiment, will the twin vacs generate more vacuum or will the actual vacuum stay the same regardless of the number of feed pipes? and if (and it's a big IF) a little extra vac is gained will this improve the PPC ? again time will tell.   


Posted By: mona-toetje
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2018 at 10:32
Yes dont think the differences are huge between the valves. Most people dont even notice when the valve is broken. I read once in a topic on apriliaforum, from gabro, that adding a second valve woukd increase the vacuum. So the awnser is yes.


Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2018 at 19:08
That's where I read about it to, TBH I don't think it will make a great deal of difference but it's definitely worth a try until the budget stretches to a Sigma, TTS or similar.


Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 09 Feb 2018 at 15:26
Well after 10 days of been messed about by an ebay seller the 26mm socket is finally here, I think I should have just gone down to Halfords in the first place. Anyway the missing socket as turned up so I've now got the swing arm out and checked the bearing, the ball bearing one is in excellent condition and still well packed with moly grease, the needle while still in pretty good condition was running quite dry so after a quick clean it's repacked with high spec water resistant synthetic grease ( I have mate who works on trains and over the years he as provided a selection of different spec greases so I now have grease for every occasion, and money is no object when dealing with trains so some of them are silly money to buy). So main swing arm bearings are sorted time to have a look at the lower linkage bearings and these weren't great so I've knocked them out and ordered some replacements. A bit of info re the bearings, the OE spec bearing is a full complement bearing needle roller bearing (this full complement bit means it as no internal cage and twice the number of rollers when compared to a typical aftermarket replacement) The OE bear is a HK1812V while a regular needle roller bearing is simply a HK1812. Now this might be a little controversial but I think the normal HK1812 is more suitable for this application, mainly because it's not a huge load situation and the full complement bearing seems over spec'd for the job the other reason is you can get more grease in a caged bearing. The main reason these bearings fail is due to lack of lubrication (the grease gets washed-out /breaks down over time) so it stands to reason if you can get more grease in there then then the bearing will stay lube'd for longer therefore extending its service life. Anyway bearings/seals ordered from Simply bearings so I'll get the swing arm back in and push the new lower bearings in when they arrive, then the rebuild proper can begin.   


Posted By: Stevex
Date Posted: 09 Feb 2018 at 18:02
Funny, I found the same with the swing arm bearings; balls with loads of moly and needle rollers just caught in time with very little grease.
Still, I reckon I'm the first to have the arm out since it left the factory 14 or so years ago, so can't complain. 
A reminder for those, especially with Gen 1's, if you haven't checked your swing arm bearings, get in there.


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People say I don't know Jack Sh1t; but I do, he lives next door.


Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 09 Feb 2018 at 18:19
Originally posted by Stevex Stevex wrote:

Funny, I found the same with the swing arm bearings; balls with loads of moly and needle rollers just caught in time with very little grease.
Still, I reckon I'm the first to have the arm out since it left the factory 14 or so years ago, so can't complain. 
A reminder for those, especially with Gen 1's, if you haven't checked your swing arm bearings, get in there.


Yeah I don't think these have seen the light of day in the best part of 17yrs and nearly 38K so as you say can't really complain hopefully be good for another few yrs, although with the link bearings I tend to check and service annually as they seem to be more venerable to water ingress and therefore need to be checked regularly.



Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 09 Mar 2018 at 14:38
quite a bit of behind the scenes progress as been made since my last post, all suspension removed cleaned, checked, re-greased and refitted only 2 bearings were found to need replacement (swing-arm linkage bearings) I think these are the most vulnerable to all the road crap etc because despite been stripped and re-greased last year along with the others they were showing significantly more signs of wear and tear than the rest. So rear suspension sorted front end was also removed cleaned and refitted, the forks were fully rebuilt last year so they should be fine for another year, the only issue I have with the front end is the locking washer on the head bearings as lost all it's tab so is now a plain washers rather than the locking variety a call to Griff will sort this. Engine oil (& filter) changed Shell Advance AX7 10w40 this year £17.99 for 4 litres from Opieoils result.

Brake calipers stripped cleaned,

https://flic.kr/p/24XyjzA" rel="nofollow"> https://flic.kr/p/24XyjzA" rel="nofollow - DSC_0072

new seals and reassembled

https://flic.kr/p/24XyiYW" rel="nofollow"> https://flic.kr/p/24XyiYW" rel="nofollow - DSC_0073

that's pretty much it for the service related jobs now it time to reassemble the thing in time for April.
So I've wrapped and re-fitted the exhaust, tank is back so hopefully it will fire up, it's always a bit nerve racking firing it up for the first time following big strip down but hopefully it will be fine.
Once it's up and running the rebuild can begin, I need to wire up the new lights, fit the tyres and reinstall the wheels, a quick word re the wheels I'd hope to paint them black to better suit the new paint scheme but I've abandoned this idea due to fears about the paint adhering correctly to the anodised finish. I did some research and there seems to be 2 schools of thought one is you can simply scotch the wheel and paint normally the other suggests you need a chromatic etch primer, I decide to do a little test and scotched a small section of the inner rim, applied some clear-coat and it looked great the clear coat really made the OE blue anodised finish really pop,

https://flic.kr/p/24Xyk39" rel="nofollow"> https://flic.kr/p/24Xyk39" rel="nofollow - DSC_0071

unfortunately once cured I could scratch the clear off with my nails,

https://flic.kr/p/24Xyim3" rel="nofollow"> https://flic.kr/p/24Xyim3" rel="nofollow - DSC_0074

so it seems simply scotching and applying the paint isn't viable and it does need some sort of etch primer to allow the paint to 'stick' correctly so while I've not totally given up on the gloss black wheels I've decided to leave alone for the time been and fit the new tyres, I'll probably revisit this at a later date.
The tyres are going back on the rims today so should have the wheels back in tomorrow, then I need to bleed the brakes and decide on brake pads, I've used SBS RS pads for years and to be honest can't really fault them, so I'll probably go for the same again, although I do fancy giving the Brembo sports compound ago so may try these but still undecided.


Posted By: Stevex
Date Posted: 09 Mar 2018 at 19:57
Why not get the wheels blasted, that'd be more than enough to key the surface?

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People say I don't know Jack Sh1t; but I do, he lives next door.


Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 09 Mar 2018 at 22:00
Yes that's an option along with chemical stripping and power coating but it means more expense inc new bearings etc, I'm fitting the tyres tomorrow so I'll leave as is for the moment and see what it looks like with the blue wheels I can always change it later if I'm not happy how it looks.


Posted By: badapple
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2018 at 01:19
Nearly there budd I think you've made the right decision on the wheels I think it will look great can't wait to see the final build

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I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left


Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2018 at 15:07
tyres on, gone for Dunlop D211 GP Racers, soft compound front, endurance rear (180/55) pop the wheels back in later bleed brakes then I need a gallon of fuel to start her up.


Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2018 at 14:56
well the end of the project is in sight, petrol added and after a bit of stopping and starting bike fired up and seems to be running fine, it's always a bit of a tense moment firing something up after stripping it down and adding quite a few new parts but the signs are positive and hopefully a test ride will reveal all is well.
So engine running, tyres fitted, wheels back in, brakes reassembled and bled, all the service parts fitted, lights fitted and working there are now only a few little jobs to do so I'm on target for taxing it 1st April, although it will likely pee it down all April so how much riding I'll get done remains to be seen but at least it will be ready.
I'm particularly pleased with how the rear light as turned out, and looks made for the job https://flic.kr/p/2434nfz" rel="nofollow">
https://flic.kr/p/2434mip" rel="nofollow">
only issue is the rear brake light switch is inop so I'll need to replace that at some point, I have one somewhere so I'll have to have root round and see if I can locate it, not that it's much of a problem the brake light is working via the front brake so it will be OK for the time been, I could really do with sorting out a no plate light but my friendly MOTer doesn't seem to bothered about it's absence so I leave it for later.
Most of the paint is now done (just got the nose cone to clear-coat, I ended up have to repaint it as the lines I'd painted were in the wrong place one side went under the mirror the other didn't !!! Once that's finished I can fit and line up the headlight, it's all wired up just needs aligning before I bond it in.
So I'm now on to final finishing bits and bobs colour sanding the paint and adding some stickers, I love doing the stickers and have combined some RSV4 and BMW S1000RR graphics to make some nice OE looking RSV1000R decals for the side fairings, the red on the V and R is reflective so produces a nice effect when light is shone on it, I tempted to use white reflective vinyl for the belly pan graphics but I'm not sure it would be a bit to flashy ??
https://flic.kr/p/HgivSS" rel="nofollow">
https://flic.kr/p/Hgixf1" rel="nofollow">
you can just about see the V and R glowing in the above pic, but when I shine a light on them in the dark garage they really pop. Next stickers are going to include some 'superleggera' text not sure where yet but I've got some chrome vinyl and they look really good, it's difficult to see the chrome effect from the pics but I think they'll look great against the red paint work.
https://flic.kr/p/FJREEv" rel="nofollow">
https://flic.kr/p/FJRDWX" rel="nofollow">

hopefully next pics will be of the finished item,


Posted By: longer
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2018 at 15:00
Its looking really good, been enjoying following this one and am looking forward to seeing the finished pics! Keep up the good work!!


Posted By: redratbike
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2018 at 16:04
Looking good sir!!!!

-------------


www.apriliaperformance.co.uk
www.apriliaforum.co.uk
www.apriliaownersclub.co.uk


Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2018 at 17:00
First ride yesterday not far because itā€™s not taxed and I believe the plod have the power to seize untaxed vehicles and while it is insured and MOTā€™d I didnā€™t want to give them any excuse to stop me so just a few miles to give it a bit of a shake down. And all was pretty good, engine felt fine, handling felt fine also, bearing in mind this was just a potter around the block so not exactly representative Iā€™m sure any issues (if indeed there are any) will show up once it goes on a proper ride out. It wasnā€™t all perfect though a couple of little niggles namely the speedo and brake light arenā€™t working. I suppose you expect minor little issues when the thing has been stripped down and itā€™s nothing serious so overall Iā€™m pretty happy. Anyway managed to sort the speedo almost straight away, I was thinking about it last night, Iā€™d removed , cleaned and refitted the speed sensor and the rear brake mount and everything looked fine no obvious damaged so what else had I done??? Then I remembered Iā€™d swapped the rear brake disc bolts for SS cap screws maybe the speed sensor (which is a simple hall sensor) wasnā€™t picking them up, so I swapped them back to the OE bolts and sure enough the speedo is cured so nice simple fix, I havenā€™t had a look at the brake light yet but it was definitely working on Sat so Iā€™m hoping that too is something simple.

So thatā€™s just about it now all I have left to do in fit the headlight, Iā€™ll take it down to my mate who happens to be a bike MOT tester I can use his headlight alignment thingy bob to get the level something like before bonding it in, new brakes pads will go in next week Iā€™ll have a run out with the old pads in then swap to the new ones, this should clean the discs up[ a bit and minimise the risk of contamination, Iā€™ve cleaned the discs with brake cleaner and given them a wipe but it wonā€™t hurt to let the old pads freshen up the surface.


Posted By: longer
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2018 at 17:18
Any more pics??


Posted By: Jollygiant
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2018 at 20:53
Originally posted by budd budd wrote:

https://flic.kr/p/2434nfz" rel="nofollow">
https://flic.kr/p/2434mip" rel="nofollow">

 

What you need is one of these...


http://www.jollyscarbon.co.uk/Tail_Tidy_files/TT%20Right.jpg" rel="nofollow - http://www.jollyscarbon.co.uk/Tail_Tidy_files/TT%20Right.jpg


-------------
Check out my pre-preg carbon fibre
www.jollyscarbon.co.uk
www.facebook.com/jollyscarbon
www.instagram.com/jollyscarbon

Has done The Ringā€¦..Slowly but I did it!!


Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2018 at 09:22
Originally posted by Jollygiant Jollygiant wrote:

Originally posted by budd budd wrote:

https://flic.kr/p/2434nfz" rel="nofollow">
https://flic.kr/p/2434mip" rel="nofollow">

Ā 


What you need is one of these...


http://www.jollyscarbon.co.uk/Tail_Tidy_files/TT%20Right.jpg" rel="nofollow - http://www.jollyscarbon.co.uk/Tail_Tidy_files/TT%20Right.jpg


No I definitely DON'T want one of those, it's the thin end of the wedge, I'd then think well I now need a carbon exhaust hanger, carbon chain guard, and it would never stop   
Seriously though I am tempted it would look really nice although once the no plate is on the scuffing on the alloy one isn't visible so it's not on my immediate 'to do 'list but you may well have a PM at some point.


Posted By: badapple
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2018 at 11:33
Looking great budd pleased the initial test run went well.

-------------
I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left


Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2018 at 14:41
Originally posted by badapple badapple wrote:

Looking great budd pleased the initial test run went well.


yes it's good to get the first ride out of the way with no serious issues, I'm always a little nervy first time out after it's been in bits and it's been in quite few bits !!!, both obvious issues found on test run now sorted, in-op speedo was caused by me using stainless (non magnetic) cap screws on the rear brake disc (schoolboy error), faulty brake light turned out to be both the front and rear switches, the front wasn't working due to a failed soldered joint where the OE plug was attached to the RSC M/C wiring, at the rear the actual switch had failed, what are the chances of having faults in both? Anyway fixed now.
Pics to follow once I get the head light bonded in and the nose cone back on.    


Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2018 at 17:55
First ride out today, taxed it on Sun and it snowed !! Typical so had to wait till today managed half an hour or so weather still not good for bikes roads patchy wet so only very steady even then had a big slide passing a white van, back wheel span up and snapped the bike sideways kicking me up out of the seat, cold tyre, poor road conditions whatever, but it would have been a shame to put all the work in only to throw it down the road 1st ride out !! luckily managed to keep it upright but it got my attention for sure.
Well here she is :
https://flic.kr/p/232N2vN" rel="nofollow">

https://flic.kr/p/24GFi6m" rel="nofollow">

https://flic.kr/p/24GFgZ3" rel="nofollow">

https://flic.kr/p/24qyFkx" rel="nofollow">

https://flic.kr/p/24GH8nQ" rel="nofollow">

https://flic.kr/p/232N1ro" rel="nofollow">

https://flic.kr/p/232MYpN" rel="nofollow">

https://flic.kr/p/232MZpy" rel="nofollow">

The point of the exercise was to firstly lighten the bike and add a little more power and change the appearance a bit while retaining all the stock bodywork to return to stock if neccessary.
Current spec is :
'01 RSV 'R', Stock engine internals with, 57mm TBs, Renegade carbon air tray, Tuono long velocity stacks, Modd'd collector, Akra Ti race can/ 60mm Ti link pipe, FR200 Eprom, PC3 custom mapped by PCR performance.
Full lightweight GRP bodywork solo rear sub frame, single projector headlight and LED stop/tail.
Brembo RCS 19 brake M/C, SBS Race Sinter pads, goodridge hoses and Motul RBF660 fluid.
Dunlop Sportmax D211 GP racer tyres (120/70 soft front - 180/55 med rear) 16t Talon front sprocket, 44 Talon rear.
Now I just need some nice weather so I can give her a proper run out.



Posted By: constant
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2018 at 18:32
absolutely cracking job you done there budd you will be getting plenty o looks out on it 
thanks for posting the build im sure everybody was looking forward for the end result


Posted By: redratbike
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2018 at 20:02
should be prod of yourself there looks aceClapClapClapClapClapClap
all ideas stolen ha ha ..
.
I'm going to rebuild the mille and I am going to do exactly what you have done , race bodywork etc
 
I already have the projector what bulbs are you running in that?
 
I've had the read spin up a couple times in the damp sure wakes you up especillay when it kicks sideways...yeehaa ride em cowboy!!!
 
 iremeber you were going to cut out the side panels and fit carbon items (they are still in the car boot!!) but the bikes looks better for the all white insertsThumbs Up


-------------


www.apriliaperformance.co.uk
www.apriliaforum.co.uk
www.apriliaownersclub.co.uk


Posted By: legend88
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2018 at 20:28
She's certainly a looker, I like it. Well done!


Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2018 at 22:06
Originally posted by redratbike redratbike wrote:

should be prod of yourself there looks aceClapClapClapClapClapClap
all ideas stolen ha ha ..
.
I'm going to rebuild the mille and I am going to do exactly what you have done , race bodywork etc
 
I already have the projector what bulbs are you running in that?
 
I've had the read spin up a couple times in the damp sure wakes you up especillay when it kicks sideways...yeehaa ride em cowboy!!!
 
 iremeber you were going to cut out the side panels and fit carbon items (they are still in the car boot!!) but the bikes looks better for the all white insertsThumbs Up
]
think
My projector lens came with various adapters to suit different bulbs, I'm just using a plan old H1, but I could fita variety of different ones I'm thinking a cob led be interesting to try but TBH the H1 halogen seems OK.

I had intended to to cut the side panels out and fit carbon but as you say it look ok as it is so I'll probably just leave it.


Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 12 Apr 2018 at 18:04
had a run out on Sunday, first bit of dry weather for what seems like ages, decided to have ride over to the cafƩ (Squires cafƩ Sherburn in Elmet W Yorks)firsts impressions were positive, engine feels strong and smooth in the midrange although it does seem a little rougher at lower revs maybe it needs a tweak on the dyno or maybe it's a side effect of the 57mm TBs, it's only noticeable when pottering around town and was soon banished by a quick blast down the M1, up to 3 figures no problem, off the motorway onto some fast B roads again all was good, started following a rider on a late model Fireblade, thought briefly about overtaking him but had a funny feeling that all wasn't well with my bike, nothing really obvious but just something was not quite right, the back end felt a little loose. So you get to thinking did I double check all the nuts and bolts maybe I'd left one loose the mind is quick to sew seeds of doubt, but swingarm, shock, rear wheel, rear linkage etc have all been off so maybe I hadn't tightened it all up correctly. Anyway decided to hold station behind the blade and eventually pulled into the cafƩ car (bike) park at which point someone kindly informed me my back tyre was flat, bugger !!! So the first trip out wasn't going as planned, after a bit of messing about looking for the damage to the tyre someone offered me a canister of tyre mousse/foam, I'm not a big fan of this stuff but needs must, emptied the full can into it and the tyre inflated enough to get me the 2-3 miles to a garage where I put 40psi into it which was enough to get me home.
Found the puncture Monday very small hole in the centre of the thread, removed the tyre cleaned all the foam gunk out and plugged the hole, I'm not totally happy repairing a bike tyre but it's nearly new and a replacement is the thick end of £180 so a repair it is. All back together now and guess what it's bloody raining, hoping for some reasonable weather at the weekend so I can have a hopefully trouble free run out.


Posted By: badapple
Date Posted: 12 Apr 2018 at 23:13
fantastic job bud thats a great colour scheme you've gone with and some tasty mods to boot. Shame about the puncture but sh*t happens always at the most inconvenient time ar least there was a decent guy/gal to help you out. Brilliant thread well doneThumbs Up

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I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left


Posted By: IanG
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2018 at 08:46
Every time I hear a tale like that it reminds me I should go back to my old practice of getting any new tyre treated with Ultraseal Smile

Never had a puncture (that I know of) while using that stuff so complacency set in and I got cheap LOL


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www.apworkshops.co.uk
www.apriliaforum.co.uk
www.apriliaownersclub.co.uk

Looking forward to the next track day


Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2018 at 09:47
well another ride and another puncture, fortunately not me this time but one of my mates on his HP4, another supercorsa bites the dust, I'm wandering whether these more track focused tyres are more vulnerable to damage due to their lighter construction maybe I well have a look at those self sealing treatments. Anyway enough about the unlucky BMW and more about my Mille and it's first proper run out around west Yorkshire roads still aren't great with lots of mud and farm muck about see it was a cautious 200 miles, it used 2 tanks of fuel which is broadly what it did last year, so fuel consumption doesn't seem to be have been effected by the engine mods. Mid and top end performance have been improved not drastically but it definitely stronger than before, what isn't so good and noticeably worse than before the mods is the performance at lower revs, it's, much less smooth, very 'snatchy' when negotiating traffic and towns etc. It's not massively bad but it is annoying and I'm hoping it can be 'mapped' out, the parts I fitted came with a custom map but all engines are slightly different so I think a run on the dyno will help and with luck iron out the issues at low revs. Handling wise it seems a little livelier but I haven't changed any of the suspension settings so I'm thinking a complete 'reset' in in order to take in to account the lighter weight of the bike overall.
Anyway next job on the to do list is a good wash, it's covered in dust and road muck ...      


Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 21 Jun 2018 at 18:02
There's slightly fewer insects flying around North Yorks !! 
https://flic.kr/p/273KYFF" rel="nofollow"> [url=https://flic.kr/p/273KYFF]

 bike continues to go well, it's just had new boots, (Bridgstone RS10s) and new brake pads (SBS Race Sinter) will be getting dyno'd in the nr future, just deciding whether take it to PCR in Cannock where it was originally mapped or to Dynojet Uk in Preston which is quite bit closer. Mixed first impressions on the tyres the bike doesn't seems as planted as it did on the Dunlops, but I've only done a few 'scrubbing in ' miles so not really pushed it, although the rear Bridgestone is noticably smaller then the outgoing Dunlop GP D211 so I'm assuming the circumference will be similarly reduced which will have an effect on the geometry and therefore handling so I think some suspension tweaks may be required. 


Posted By: 426hemi
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2018 at 00:02
Can't say anything but good about pcr in CANNOCK but dynojet if it's frank wratthal is dynojet uk and built my engine and know there Aprilia's.


Posted By: budd
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2018 at 09:22
Originally posted by 426hemi 426hemi wrote:

Can't say anything but good about pcr in CANNOCK but dynojet if it's frank wratthal is dynojet uk and built my engine and know there Aprilia's.

Thanks for that a positive report helps make the decision easier, it's difficult to know what to do for the best sometimes but maybe a fresh start will be the best option plus they are considerably nearer.
Not sure who the actual operator is but appearently Dynojet Uk is used by lots of race teams including to front runners like  Smiths, Padgetts so they must be doing something right.  


Posted By: 426hemi
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2018 at 12:33
frank wrathal is the uk importer for dynojet, he's based in garstang, if you get the chance it's worth calling in as it's a great place. He built the 1103 motor in my gen1 rsv and got 147bhp with small valve heads so they know there aprilias.



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