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Oil light worries

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Topic: Oil light worries
Posted By: Wavestarved
Subject: Oil light worries
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 18:48
Just done an oil and filter change, and got home after a short ride out today and the oil light is coming on until the revs reach 2000. I'm assuming this isn't right as I'm sure I'd have noticed this prior to the o & f change. I've checked the level after my ride and it's about an inch below the max mark on the tube, as it was when I set out. Anyone got any ideas? Wondering whether it might be the oil I've used, Motul 5000 semi synth, 10w40.
Any help gratefully received.

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Replies:
Posted By: 426hemi
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 18:50
What filter did you use as there is 2 types.


Posted By: Wavestarved
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 19:04
The short one, HiFlo hf152, the same as the last one. Flat filter cover so correct.

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Posted By: Wavestarved
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 19:25
Can't think what else it could be, all was well til I changed it, and that is all I've done to it.

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Posted By: Spoonz
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 19:31
I would fit a new pressure switch before you get too deep into other possible causes. As they are relatively cheap and a fairly frequent issue, that would be a good starting point.
 
 


Posted By: Throbbing-Twin
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 19:52
Originally posted by Spoonz Spoonz wrote:


I would fit a new pressure switch before you get too deep into other possible causes. As they are relatively cheap and a fairly frequent issue, that would be a good starting point.
 
 


I had exactly the same and a new oil pressure switch sorted it just like Spoonz mentions above. I can't promise that's the problem but it was on mine

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Posted By: Wavestarved
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 20:56
Cheers for the suggestion. Strange it should start playing up just when I change the oil but I'll give that a go first. Any way of testing them other than just swapping for a new one?
BTW where is it located?

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Posted By: Spoonz
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 21:22
Originally posted by Wavestarved Wavestarved wrote:


BTW where is it located?
 
On the engine Wink
 
 
 
 
Right side towards the front near the water pump housing


Posted By: sc_obvious
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 22:05
I started getting the warning light when I'd foolishly let my oil level get too low - I then had to replace the oil temp switch.


Posted By: Wavestarved
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 22:41
Cheers spoonz, I'll get one ordered.

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Posted By: Tifa
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 23:52
Could you have put the filer in the wrong way around?

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Posted By: Wavestarved
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2016 at 00:05
Good question Tifa, but no, rubber end first like the old one came out.

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Posted By: Shyted
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2016 at 16:28
Hello Wavestarved.
The oil pressure switch is situated on the underside of the clutch cover casing with a single black wire going to it with a black placki cover on it with a straight female connector going to it.
Next go over your work.
This is not a criticism , it's the voice of experience.
I only use genuine filters ,which are cheap enough , on any bike or car.
Once had a V70 turbo and the owner put an after market oil filter on. Oil warning light came on after two miles and stayed on.
After the hair had fallen from my head through scratching it for forty minutes.I checked the oil pressure on start up . It was a bit low but nowt to get worried about.Pulled the filter off (paper element) and compared it to the other the owner had brought along in a plastic bag.One difference.
One said Volvo ,one said FRAM. For £7.00 i bought a genuine filter from Rybrook in Warrington.
Inserted it . Oil light out straight away and oil pressure up.
I've waffled on for two minutes,but a lesson learned.
If the oil pressure sensor don't cure it ,that would be my next port of call.Think genuine filters are a £10 er posted from Griff but best ask him about that.
Too,the problem i had with the warning light illuminating was a terminal oil pump.Don't think you need to worry about that though.
Hope that's given you some comfort pal.
Regards Shyted.


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I used to be uncertain , but now i'm not sure anymore


Posted By: kiwi_rsvr
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2016 at 16:35
Some after market filters don't have the pressure relief valve in them , this may also cause your problem. 

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Posted By: Wavestarved
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2016 at 20:48
Shyted, thanks for that, I assumed a filter was a filter was a filter. I've not had chance to look at it since the other day so cheers for the description of the switch too.
Kiwi, ta bud, didn't know they had pressure relief valves built into them, it did look identical to the filter I removed (a bit cleaner though).
Thanks again

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Posted By: Shyted
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2016 at 20:43
Don't mention it my old cock SparrowThumbs Up

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I used to be uncertain , but now i'm not sure anymore


Posted By: Wavestarved
Date Posted: 06 Apr 2016 at 21:52
Bit of an update, rang the shop today and spoke to Lewis who suggested removing the pressure switch, allowing the oil to bleed a little then refitting to see if that cures it, possibly a kind of air lock in the system. Well I haven't yet, cos someone's borrowed my socket set, but I started the bike to see if it was still coming on. Warmed it up on the lever to about 45 degrees the dropped it off and let it just tick over while it continued warming up... No light, until it got to 78 degrees, then the oil light started flickering, then fully came on as the temperature rose to 80, I increased the revs to 1500 and the light went out, until the temperature rose to 82 degrees then the light started flickering again and came on fully when the temp got to 84. Increased the revs (on the lever) to just below 2000 light goes out, temperature rises to 90, light comes on again, fans kick in at 92 degrees temp drops to 88. Light stays on now until it revs above 2000 rpm.
Seems to me that the oil pressure drops in line with the engine temperature rising. Now I could be wrong but this does seem to me to point to the oil not being suitable. Anyone else got any thoughts on this?
Sorry about the lengthy post.


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Posted By: redratbike
Date Posted: 06 Apr 2016 at 22:46
oil pressure relief valve stuck open

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Posted By: Spoonz
Date Posted: 06 Apr 2016 at 23:01
The oil pressure is dropping slightly as the oil thins, that is normal.  But what you don't know is if that is because the motor is borderline pressure wise and the thinner oil tips it over the edge or the switch is mis reading the pressure. If thicker oil makes the light go out it is only masking a problem that will bite you on the arse much harder later. 
 
If you don't have access to a pressure tester to get a definitive answer, change the switch first and then if the problem persists, look deeper.
 
 


Posted By: Ash
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2016 at 00:07
And those are wise words, get it to the shop and find out one way or another, for your own piece of mind.

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Posted By: redratbike
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2016 at 05:52
if the socket set is loaned out ..which i dont think u can use anyway because the switch is too long..use a spanner

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Posted By: Shyted
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2016 at 06:18
Originally posted by redratbike redratbike wrote:

oil pressure relief valve stuck open
Or more to the point the notorious crap spring has gone crapper and allowing the oil past the relief valve piston when the oil starts to get hot.
This is quite common with Gen 2.
If you aren't handy with the spanners ,get the bike to griff.
To give you an idea,i'm waiting for springs to arrive. It's been six weeks at least since i ordered them for the 2000 model year bike. The springs are longer and stronger.
If that's the problem,you might have a damaged pump.It need's investigating.


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I used to be uncertain , but now i'm not sure anymore


Posted By: legend88
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2016 at 10:02
Originally posted by Shyted Shyted wrote:

Originally posted by redratbike redratbike wrote:

oil pressure relief valve stuck open
Or more to the point the notorious crap spring has gone crapper and allowing the oil past the relief valve
To give you an idea,i'm waiting for springs to arrive. It's been six weeks at least since i ordered them for the 2000 model year bike. The springs are longer and stronger.


Is this spring mod a worthy upgrade to a Gen1 that does not have these issues or is it a waste of time? Is worth doing, how much are the springs and what is the best place to source them?




Posted By: redratbike
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2016 at 11:50
Originally posted by legend88 legend88 wrote:

Originally posted by Shyted Shyted wrote:

Originally posted by redratbike redratbike wrote:

oil pressure relief valve stuck open
Or more to the point the notorious crap spring has gone crapper and allowing the oil past the relief valve
To give you an idea,i'm waiting for springs to arrive. It's been six weeks at least since i ordered them for the 2000 model year bike. The springs are longer and stronger.


Is this spring mod a worthy upgrade to a Gen1 that does not have these issues or is it a waste of time? Is worth doing, how much are the springs and what is the best place to source them?


all v990's have this issue not just gen2's
 
normally happens after an oil change apparently not sure why 99.9999% of the time its ok but every now and then it happens
 
happened to me I was lazy and upped the tick over ...last time out the light was off completely so cured itself ha ha


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Posted By: Shyted
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2016 at 12:31
Oh this is unearthing more info. If any one knows , i know you will know something about it . It's strange that that should happen as you've stated Rattus.
It's strange that it happens on an oil change.Either way the piston is coming off it's seat,by the sounds of it though.
I can only relate to the GEN 2. BUT... There are still three part numbers for the springs. One is unavailable but the year 2k one gives better results ,having gleaned that information from Micha on AF1 ,seen the state of pumps where it's apparent that this has been a problem.
Can't confirm any further than that at this point as i'm still waiting for the springs to arrive,£14 each inc VAT along with the stopper , spring is longer and put in to a certain distance by the stopper 
and then staked . Wouldn't recommend you do anything on my say so until i've proved it works.Will also pass on pictures and results .
My plan is to get the spring and have them copied and made from good stuff along with the piston.
race and rally are around the corner from me and they're going to make the pistons.
Might be a good idea to see what happens with a pressure gauge on warm up if that's the case.
I have primed the new pump i have made so that should be bang on when started.
This oil pump business has more to it than meets the eye.Time to start digging again me think's. 


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I used to be uncertain , but now i'm not sure anymore


Posted By: redratbike
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2016 at 12:42
I tested my pressure and it looked good but still had the flickering at  low revs and then as above as it got hotter required higher revs to keep it off.
 
changed the motor now but the old one I want to go into the falco so may pull it all apart ..I think I didn't have a clutch holding tool and struggled to crack the big nut off so left itEmbarrassed
 
 then rode it like I stole it ha ha Evil Smile


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Posted By: Shyted
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2016 at 12:52
Originally posted by redratbike redratbike wrote:

I tested my pressure and it looked good but still had the flickering at  low revs and then as above as it got hotter required higher revs to keep it off.
 
changed the motor now but the old one I want to go into the falco so may pull it all apart ..I think I didn't have a clutch holding tool and struggled to crack the big nut off so left itEmbarrassed
 
 then rode it like I stole it ha ha Evil Smile
Check the gouges on the crank case side,you'll be shocked.Believe it or not ,they're good to run like that.
If it's tram lined inside the pump, then the pump is scrap.


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I used to be uncertain , but now i'm not sure anymore


Posted By: redratbike
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2016 at 13:03
can the pump be welded and machined ?

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Posted By: Spoonz
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2016 at 14:59
Be interesting to see if it is the pump.
 
You may remember Andi had this on his track bike and even a new pump didn't fix it so he got a new motor. It might be that the pump was the root cause though.
 
At idle the bike only needs something low like 1.5 bar to turn off the light (don't quote me on that as not looked it up) but the ideal pressure was more like 4.5 bar. So the pressure has to be a long way from ideal to trigger a light on.
 
Despite  1.6 bar not showing a light it could be that damage is occurring to some degree,........... food for thought.


Posted By: Wavestarved
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2016 at 16:43
Gonna have to get this pressure tested I think. Got my tools back today so going to try Lewis' suggestion then if it continues order a new switch and get it vanned over to a mates garage to test the oil pressure before fitting the new one.
Thanks everyone for the help

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Posted By: Shyted
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2016 at 12:31
Originally posted by redratbike redratbike wrote:

can the pump be welded and machined ?
To be honest it would be as cheap to buy a new back case as they aren't that expensive,however the front cover is round the £100 inc VAT mark.
My plan is to make my own from billet but i need to talk to someone who can tell me how to make it 
better.There's end float there on the feed side,hence the marks on the crank case i think. 
You can't go mad as it starts to rob horse power and then blows seals out either that or replace the whole unit every so many thousand miles,but i would rather be finding a solution than put on a plaster,if you know what i mean.


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I used to be uncertain , but now i'm not sure anymore


Posted By: 426hemi
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2016 at 12:34
Wonder if you could remove it and fit an electric pump?


Posted By: Wavestarved
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2016 at 20:17
Tried Lewis' suggestion of removing the switch and allowing it to bleed a bit before replacing it, I thought it had sorted it as it got to 68 degrees still no light, 75 still no light, 80 still nothing.. 85... 86...87 oh happy days ................ 88 degrees... Ping ... light on!
Just ordered a new switch and a filter from Griff, gonna replace the switch first then try it, then if that don't cure it swap the filter as well and try it again, if that don't do it I'll get serious with it and give it a good talking to.....

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Posted By: Shyted
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2016 at 06:29
Originally posted by 426hemi 426hemi wrote:

Wonder if you could remove it and fit an electric pump?
This had crossed my mind too hemi.There must be someone in the racing community who has found this problem apart from Micha.
Frank Wrathal maybe.


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I used to be uncertain , but now i'm not sure anymore


Posted By: Wavestarved
Date Posted: 12 Apr 2016 at 14:03
New switch fitted, seems to be sorted. Let it get hot enough to trigger the fans (91 degrees) a couple of times and no light. Still think I want a pressure test just to be absolutely sure.
Thanks for advice all.

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Posted By: redratbike
Date Posted: 12 Apr 2016 at 16:11
good news ..

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Posted By: Af1
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2018 at 17:53

My 2001 hasnt got an oil problem, it has the longer filter fitted, i have read that the longer filter doesnt have an oil bypass switch where as the short one does !

Which is better ? short or long ?

short


long



the difference between the filters



exploded diagram



Many incedents of the oil leaking back through the oil pump could this be a problem ? causing low pressure and lots of noise on start up ?
Gen2 bikes with the weaker crank which ran closer tolerance bearing s (0.15 instead of 0.25) were often supplied with either the long or the short....

What a lowlife company K&N are, they sell faulty filters for the RSV gen 1 and 2 , and if you fit K&N faulty chinese made filters it your fault.

The problem.



the failure



your filter fell apart ! k&n blame you. k&n did eventually support their product and paid for a rebuild. I dont think this would happen in england where anything goes....

www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?303710

NEVER USE K&N , Cheap chinese crap with no quality or back up. And the OE Aprilia part is half the price ! Watch the video of the track blow up of the k&n oil filter !





Posted By: David451
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2018 at 20:42
my k&n pissed oil out the nut on the top on my speed triple they recalled them all but yes they are sh*t


Posted By: snowman
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2018 at 21:07
Yeh, heard piss poor reports years ago about K&N oil filters so stay away from them, have run their air filters for yrs and not had any problems.


Posted By: Stevex
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2018 at 21:46
I'm planning to replace the K&N air filters on my Tuono and Honda CB1300 with OEM or Hiflo.
Been hearing for a while some doubts as the the level of filtration from their air filters.
Been using K&N oil filters on the 13 for years, but after reading this will replace with OEM or Hiflo again.


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Posted By: legend88
Date Posted: 05 Oct 2018 at 15:03
Originally posted by Stevex Stevex wrote:

I'm planning to replace the K&N air filters on my Tuono and Honda CB1300 with OEM or Hiflo.
Been hearing for a while some doubts as the the level of filtration from their air filters.


If you are running them inside an airbox and the airbox is clean inside then you know they are filtering.


Posted By: kiwi_rsvr
Date Posted: 05 Oct 2018 at 15:56
I think that HiFlo make oil filters for K&N....

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Posted By: CarsOrBikes
Date Posted: 07 Oct 2018 at 15:10
I struggle to see why the most important filter on a bike wouldn't be OEM every time really. For the sake of a couple of quid?

I think the air filters are fine, or Green which I have in mine atm.


Posted By: Stevex
Date Posted: 07 Oct 2018 at 17:01
Originally posted by legend88 legend88 wrote:

Originally posted by Stevex Stevex wrote:

I'm planning to replace the K&N air filters on my Tuono and Honda CB1300 with OEM or Hiflo.
Been hearing for a while some doubts as the the level of filtration from their air filters.


If you are running them inside an airbox and the airbox is clean inside then you know they are filtering.

Or, on the other hand, the dirt has gone through the combustion chamber.
We're talking filtration down to the 5-25 micron level here.



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People say I don't know Jack Sh1t; but I do, he lives next door.


Posted By: legend88
Date Posted: 07 Oct 2018 at 20:39
Yes, I agree and there would certainly be signs of it inside the airbox if it were getting through the filter. Mine is absolutely spotless inside.


Posted By: snowman
Date Posted: 08 Oct 2018 at 14:25
My airbox inside spotless also “K& N “


Posted By: kiwi_rsvr
Date Posted: 08 Oct 2018 at 17:37
Mines nice and clean too...not K&N though




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