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power commander

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paul View Drop Down
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    Posted: 21 Jul 2006 at 12:18
Hi, I am just about to fit a power commanderIII to me prilla rsvr, and basically that is all I have just the wiring and module! Can anyone give me a rough idea as to what to do when it is all hooked up i.e. manual tuning of it? I have been on their site and for some reason I cannot download anything to my p.c. Cheers, ....Paul..........
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Desert Fox Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jul 2006 at 13:40
Paul Send me your mail address, and I will try to download and send the files.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote paul Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jul 2006 at 17:35
Thanks for that Fox! I have twin renegade shotgun cans with standard filter bladeage1@aol.com ..again many thanks !
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rsvr62 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2006 at 07:45
Hi, I recommend a pro set up at a PC Dynojet Centre or similar. They will go for an adjustment of each cylinder separately as the fuel values may vary as much as 30-40 pct for each. It will obviously take longer time than "ordinary" mapping but the result will be worth it. Regards RSVR62
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote paul Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2006 at 16:37
cheers 62 ! We got a small bike shop up here that is opening a dynojet rolling road soon so I guess the best bet is to go take it there and get it set up properly! One more question though... The power commander module that I brought second hand (commander III USB) has the code 902-410, I went on the dynojet site and could not find this unit in the Aprilia section, I think it was meant for a Ducati 996 but am told they are the same and it will still work ok?? Cheers, ......Paul........
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote paul Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jul 2006 at 07:04
Thx for that m8, I was getting worried that it wouldnt fit as it is not listed under aprilia. I did not get a usb lead with it so I cannot plug it into my laptop also I cannot find a map on the site for renegade twin pipes so I think I will take it and get it dyno'd properly, especially as it is running very rich at the moment. Cheers, ................Paul................
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JMH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan 2018 at 16:17
I have got the PCIII for my 1060 project for fine tuning. It is an old used one with an unknown map. I need to make a zero map to it to start with. I do not have the 9V battery adapter but if I cannot find one for loan locally I plan to make one myself.


The questions is that what is the point then to plug the connector to a 9V battery? Wouldn't it be better to connect the PCIII directly to my 12 V Shorai? Need to do the map on my office table to give you a picture.

 
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My riding lines are like Hendrix's solos. Unexpected and always different.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote deloco7 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan 2018 at 16:38
As per Dynojets own instructions on the PC3

The Power commander requires external power in order to communicate with it or to make button adjustments. On some models of bikes power is only supplied to it when the engine is running.

I guess it also comes in handy if you have no laptop so have to bring the PC3 to your computer and again it will require an external power source.

Adapters available on eBay or Amazon and as far as i remember there is usually a zero map as standard in the units. If not, easily downloaded from Dynojets website
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JMH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan 2018 at 16:44
^
Not the question. Question is that wouldn't it be better to use a 12V MC battery as an external power unit than a 9V battery?
 
Adapters are available on ebay, but I can probably get one done faster than waiting for the shipment. Might come down to that but first I visit a shop tomorrow.
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My riding lines are like Hendrix's solos. Unexpected and always different.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote deloco7 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan 2018 at 16:45
Actually forget Amazon and Ebay (at least in the UK) - There don't appear to be any but available from USA.

Dynojet themselves probably ship them at better prices.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote deloco7 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan 2018 at 16:48
Sorry  - I read that as 2 questions, the first one being:

The questions is that what is the point then to plug the connector to a 9V battery?

Thats the one i answered LOL

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote redratbike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan 2018 at 17:18
Maybe because there isn't a pocket /small sized 12volt battery available??


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JMH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan 2018 at 17:28
If I have the female connector to PCIII and two wires sticking out of it there is no issue to solder battery terminals to them.
Question is the voltage. It is designed to work with 12 V but apparently works somehow with 9V. Although I can accomplish bad soldering I am no electrician and therefore make this question in order not to fry the freakin thing LOL
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My riding lines are like Hendrix's solos. Unexpected and always different.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote deloco7 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan 2018 at 17:51
After searching apparently you can use a 12v supply as well as the 9v battery - I'm guessing the 9v is for convenience as Redratbike says. Its not meant for long term use as it will drain down in a couple of hours.

However, I have copied and pasted this from another forum and it explains how to make your own. The part numbers are from Radio Shack (no longer trading) but the description of parts will apply to any component supplier.

I want to ride my bike today and cannot wait until Monday or even Tuesday. So what do you do on a weekend and no access to the battery adapter. Visit Radio Shack and hack one out.

Here is what I purchased/did:

Purchase:
$2.69 PN#270-0324 9V battery clips
$1.99 PN#276-1428 9 Position female D sub connector
$4.49 PN#230-0875 Alkaline 9V battery
$9.17 total

Make sure you have:
  1. Laptop
  2. USB to mini-usb connector (make sure its not the micro-usb, comes with most cell phones)
  • With a bit of soldering or crimping, connect the crimp-type connectors to the red/black leads.
  • Connect the leads to the white header pin for power(red), ground (black)
See pics.

Looking at the header connector(not the wire side) with the tab on top.

Pin 1 (+) bottom row - furthest left
Pin 10 (-) top row - furthest right

Connect USB to laptop and software and presto, communication to the PCIII is established. You may have to connect/disconnect the USB cord to force the PC to establish a new USB device connection.

I spent a good 3-4hrs looking for the header pinouts. Wish someone, wrote a simple writeup. Eventually I found it. Hopefully this helps.
This exhaust fetish is getting silly now....anyway lets get another one
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote redratbike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan 2018 at 18:17
A lot of electrical items have a voltage range they can work within hence the 9 or 12 volt


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Si McMille Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan 2018 at 19:18
Hi guys, glad someone has asked about power commanders, I’ve just bought the same one.. Has no instructions.

I deffo need a custom map, but I’m going to choose a generic one for now, but none of them suit 54 tb’s....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JMH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan 2018 at 20:01
Dyno room + custom map. Everything else is close to waste of money and I’d instead get a chip from Gabro.
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My riding lines are like Hendrix's solos. Unexpected and always different.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JMH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 2018 at 10:39
Oh hell... I went for the redneck approach. Garmin USB + electrical wires. Bottom left is + and top right is -. Got the zero map done. After taking the pic I changed the map notes to zero map.



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My riding lines are like Hendrix's solos. Unexpected and always different.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Si McMille Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 2018 at 11:04
Was looking at different maps last night, downloaded the software.

Was just going to go with a simple map like a Evo Ti and a Aprilia EPROM or the Leo Vince slip on with unrestricted airbox and K&N. Any thing is going to be better than 0.
2001 RP Mille
15/42 gearing
54mm tb’s
54mm Evo stacks - dual velocity
Evo air box with K&N
Unrestricted intake boot
Custom Collector Mod
Evo Ti Exhaust
Aprilia EPROM
PC3
Tuono riser conversion
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JMH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 2018 at 11:22
^
OKish but when you find the time and cash a dyno room visit with TB balancing and tuning is worth the effort as you certainly know.
 
I have come to a conclusion that these Rotax engines are very much individuals. I guess much of that is the cam timing, which can be all over the place when the bike has left the factory.
 
Micah's notes from AF1:
 
108/114 is the "stock" recommendation or setting that supposedly comes from the Rotax factory. I have seen these numbers in reality to be all over the place. These numbers are form the last dead stock engine at 3400 miles I measured, it came apart with 93/122 and 114/92 front rear to front, once again this is from memory but has to be very close to the numbers recorded on my build sheet from last week. This is with the crank in the pin lock locations for TDC (which have consistently been less than 2 degrees off from the stop pin determined numbers) and the cam wheels set as close to possible to the timing marks as suggested in the manual.
Mille Aarrr -02 & 05 625 SXC
My riding lines are like Hendrix's solos. Unexpected and always different.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Si McMille Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 2018 at 11:29
My aim is to get her mapped properly, just not a cheap job. So need to save up..

Was going to see in I can get some second hand cams sprocket and slot them.

I know it’s easier if the engine is out of the bike but can the cam timing be done whilst in?
2001 RP Mille
15/42 gearing
54mm tb’s
54mm Evo stacks - dual velocity
Evo air box with K&N
Unrestricted intake boot
Custom Collector Mod
Evo Ti Exhaust
Aprilia EPROM
PC3
Tuono riser conversion
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JMH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 2018 at 11:38
^
I think it can be done. It is all about what kind of support arms you have for the dial gauge.
 
If was to do the slotting now with the engine in I would take some time and do it cam by cam so that I would measure the timing with standard bolt positions and then start grinding them gradually-> measure->grind. That way you end up with the bolts in furthest forward or backward position and do not need to redo the thing in case you end up changing valve shims.
 
Remember to tighten the cam chain manually while measuring.
 
As for the arm something like this could work:
 
Mille Aarrr -02 & 05 625 SXC
My riding lines are like Hendrix's solos. Unexpected and always different.
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