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Oil- what type to get?

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biff View Drop Down
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    Posted: 07 May 2018 at 21:15
Evening all. Returning after an enforced break. 

So after a year under a cover I got the chance to get the RSVR gen 2 out into the light. Surprising in that it had faired quite well after being doused in ACF50. Quick scrub with a degreaser and the old girl is looking good. 

It even fired up first time! So far so good. Started a few checks.

Oil- none. Ran it up to temp and not a sausage registering on the oil level doofer. I've lobbed in all I had to hand of 10w40 into it and switched off sharpish. still nothing registered on the level gauge but at least it's got some oil in there now. The manual asks for 15w50 but what would you guys recommend from halfords in the morning? More to the point, where did it all go as the garage floor was clear and no signed of leaks.

Clutch appeared fine- the master cylinder I got a year or so ago from AP seems fine. Brakes also appear fine but I will have a go at bleeding them.

The other slightly worrying thing was a very small level of oil on the fork sliders. Is this a sign that the seals are on the way out?

Any assistance and advice appreciated
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 426hemi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2018 at 21:18
10/40 or 15/50 semi synth is fine, the oil could be the seals especially if it has Ohlins fitted as they are prone to it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote biff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2018 at 21:28
Thanks. It was semi synth I lobbed in earlier so a wee bit more wont hurt. Re fork seals- yes, these are the original ohlins seals so I guess I have done well for them to last this long. Is the accepted wisdom that this is a DIY jobbie, one for a local dealer or one for Griff and the boys?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 426hemi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2018 at 22:02
Can do it yourself, just depends how confident you are.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Diablo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2018 at 22:37
It's a dry sump engine.

With my gen 1, there is no oil in the sight tube after winter lay off. Have to warm it up and it appears.

Be careful adding oil when the bike is cold. The oil should be checked when the bike is hot, after a ride, or after the fans have kicked in twice or more after starting (I prefer after ride).

You risk overfilling it if not.

Bet it was great to hear it burst into life after the lay off Approve




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote biff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2018 at 23:09
Mixed emotions really. Ace to get the thing out from under its cover, but annoying to discover the work that's going to be required.

The bike was up on stands when I ran it up to temp and still no sign of any oil. Am tempted to do a full change for the hell of it anyway. 

Thinking about doing the fork strip myself too but I'll have to get a new front paddock stand plus tools. Might call AP in the morning.....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote legend88 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2018 at 08:18
The oil level sounds a little strange but as Diablo says it drains out of the oil tank after an inactive period therefore doesn't show in the sight tube. The oil cannot have gone anywhere if it was ok when you left it, you would know if it had leaked out into the garage!. I would say it's worth doing an oil change anyway if it's been layed up for a year - unless you changed it just prior in readiness for storage.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote snowman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2018 at 15:55
Have always run mine on Putoline 15/50 semi syn and had no problems, only want it 3/4 on oil site tube after run (10mls) and this is on side stand .good luck oh mines 09 f/ tuono 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stevex Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2018 at 17:48
When I left my Gen 1 Tuono over winter the tank oil drained into the engine.
Took it for a run and it was back to normal tank level afterwards.
I put 15w50 300V in mine, throw back from the PO...never missed a beat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote biff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2018 at 23:42
Well what a bleedin pita. Confessions time.

So having rung AP today, it turns out there are 2 filter sizes. How hard can it be thinks myself. So I take a trip to halfords and stock up on a few consumables. The plan is to drain the oil, fetch out the filter and measure it, and order a new one tomorrow.

Job 1- bleed back brake. I I fetch the calliper off only to find some feckin numpty has (at some point) cross threaded one of the threads in the calliper carrier. I know it was a numpty not me coz I have never attempted it before. So I take over an hour or so gently prising metal out of the hole and gently feeding in the bolt so it can sit square and find some sort of thread. It will now just about do but thoughts welcome on how the hell I repair that. I have not torqued it up yet- for fear of stripping the remainder of what's left of the thread. It's taking 15nm ok but not the full 30. The other bolt is fine.

So onto brake bleeding. What a fecking pain! I try the trad method and fail miserably. I get the caliper high as I can and clamp in in place with ratchet strap The pedal is not offering any resistance at all so i give up, re mount the caliper and reverse bleed it. However, looks like I scratched the swing arm so that caused lots of swearing.

So now I reverse bleed it ok I think- the pedal is more solid but I can't really tell and standstill. Leave that for a while and see if it's ok back on the road.

All this time I have had the fecking lights on and ignition on to stop the alarm going off.....and now of course the battery is bloody flat so won't turn the engine over so that's left on recovery over night. Tomorrows job is to warm it up a little and drain the engine.....

In other news I have decided not to attempt a fork service. I don't trust myself. The plan is to drop the forks out and take them up to AP in the car..... Just need to get a new head tube paddock stand....any recommendations or avoids?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 426hemi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2018 at 06:23
I use one of these and it's been brilliant but you need to take the lower headstock cover off.
https://probike.co.uk/it050004.htm
Your rear brake will probably need a helicoil fitting now which any competent garage should be able to do for you and don't try to start these bikes on a low battery as it could damage the sprag and your into a few hundred to fix that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote biff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2018 at 08:14
thanks @426hemi 

Yes- that's the plan. A standard stand should suit. Ordering one this morning. That should enable me to drop the forks out and run them up to AP.

In other news, the battery has recovered and it fired up first time this morning so I'll warm it all up tonight and drain the oil. What's the accepted wisdom here? Drain while up on 2 paddock stands, just on a rear stand, or while on the side stand?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote badapple Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2018 at 12:28
Originally posted by biff biff wrote:

thanks @426hemi 

Yes- that's the plan. A standard stand should suit. Ordering one this morning. That should enable me to drop the forks out and run them up to AP.

In other news, the battery has recovered and it fired up first time this morning so I'll warm it all up tonight and drain the oil. What's the accepted wisdom here? Drain while up on 2 paddock stands, just on a rear stand, or while on the side stand?

Drain and fill on the side stand mate 
I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote biff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2018 at 22:52
I am thinking of re naming this thread as the ramblings of the UK's most amateur mechanic. 

Last nights adventure was an oil change. For me this was a minor life win as the garage floor wasn't swimming in castrol today when I went back to check. thanks for the advice above @badapple

So the head stand arrived today from Ghostbikes.com and for £45 it works a treat. The 18mm fitting goes straight in and it's soooooo much easier that using a traditional front paddock stand. Top drawer.

So I proceeded to drop the front wheel out. Having removed the front callipers, I got a chance to look at the front pads. They vary between 2 and 3 mm so next job is to look up the recommended minimum thickness. Is suspect I am close to the lower limit so there's another item to buy.

Next. Out with the front wheel and thankfully no dramas there. All parts safely photographed and in pots. So onto the forks. So I slacken off the 4 Allen bolts on the fork tube. So far so good. Thinking I am home and dry, I kneel down and give the fork a gentle twist.... And literally it's forking stuck. The thing remains solid and immoveable. Not even a minor move, so giving it a bit more muscle I have another go....nothing again. Having grunted, yanked, twisted and swore for a good few minutes, I reach for the wd40 and squirt some around the clamps. Eventually I am able to move it a mm, so gently I yank, grunt, twist and swear and it moves again...and so it continues until I get the first one out.

And so it continues until I get the second one out. So these are off to AP early next week but frankly I am dreading getting them back in. There must be an easy way?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Diablo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2018 at 23:37
Keep going Biff, you're getting there mate.

Use a small pry or wedge in the yoke, in the split, near when you've taken the bolt out -and from the edge on the front, in the middle, not from the top. Something that's not so long to reach to the fork tube and scratch it. Be gentle and use something that won't mark the yoke. You'll find it easier to get the forks out and in.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote biff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 May 2018 at 23:45
thanks for the tip Diablo. What do you use as a wedge?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Diablo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2018 at 00:09
I have a couple of pieces of aluminium, shaped like a blunt chisel, that I use. A couple of shortish thick flat bladed screwdrivers would do. It's just to spread the clamp slightly. You don't want to use something too thin, that can reach to the fork leg and scratch it. Be careful not to deform or mark the yoke in the split at the same time. Slowly and carefully. Not much force needed. Remember that you will need to do upper and lower at the same time. Make sure when you do, that the fork doesn't just drop out onto the floor when you do it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote badapple Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2018 at 01:45
Dont worry mate I've had many days in the cave like that one thing after another but the main thing is your doing it , learning as you go and saving money on garage fees. This site has really helped me over the years and i now tackle jobs i wouldn't of dreamed of doing before finding all the great helpful people on here . As Diablo said keep at it of you are stuck just askThumbs Up
I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote biff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2018 at 08:37
cheers fellas. All moral support and advice appreciated. Today's activity is limited to shopping. Looking at brake pads I've ordered some EBC HH sintered. I had some of these before on a previous bike and they were pretty good and found a site selling them for £30 a set. 

A visit to screwfix is planned for later- a set of hex drives for a 3/8 torque wrench will be required for reassembly....and if I can find a couple of cheap screwdrivers as suggested by Diablo
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote biff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2018 at 22:04
Well, that's it, all done. I collected the forks from AP today and following the advice, used a couple of old freebie thin spanners once the clamps were prised apart. It works a treat and so the forks popped back in way easier than they came out.

Re assembly was a load quicker than disassembly And within a couple of hours it's all back together again. In the process I did take out the front pads and measured them. The lowest is 2.5mm so there is some life left in them. The new pads have arrived but I reckon I will pop them in mid summer.

Feeling quietly smug with myself as that's the most work I have successfully done. The savings probably have paid for the additional tools I needed to buy and on going maintenance will be quicker and easier armed with a little more knowledge/technique. 

Thanks for the advice
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Diablo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2018 at 11:38
Nice one Biff, well done.

You've saved money and learned about your bike in the process.

I always like any excuse to buy more tools LOL

Feel free to feel smug Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IanG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2018 at 15:55
From memory EBC HH pads were thinner than stock when new anyway,at least the ones for the SV1000 were when I misguidedly replaced OEM with the wooden blocks (pads?)  that EBC supply Ouch
www.apriliaperformance.co.uk
www.apriliaforum.co.uk
www.apriliaownersclub.co.uk

Looking forward to the next track day
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 426hemi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2018 at 16:51
Agree on ebc, don't rate them at all, sbs or Brembo sc for me.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote badapple Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2018 at 20:39
Originally posted by biff biff wrote:

Well, that's it, all done. I collected the forks from AP today and following the advice, used a couple of old freebie thin spanners once the clamps were prised apart. It works a treat and so the forks popped back in way easier than they came out.

Re assembly was a load quicker than disassembly And within a couple of hours it's all back together again. In the process I did take out the front pads and measured them. The lowest is 2.5mm so there is some life left in them. The new pads have arrived but I reckon I will pop them in mid summer.

Feeling quietly smug with myself as that's the most work I have successfully done. The savings probably have paid for the additional tools I needed to buy and on going maintenance will be quicker and easier armed with a little more knowledge/technique. 

Thanks for the advice

Top work well done.
I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left
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