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Ohlins Service - You can do it!

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tapmyhed View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tapmyhed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Ohlins Service - You can do it!
    Posted: 05 Feb 2016 at 20:21
This is worth a post.  I just stripped and rebuilt my front shocks.
Easiest job I've ever done.  I'm kicking myself why I've paid a guy to do this for me for years!!!!
 
What I have learnt:
 
Changing oil and seals is NOT ENOUGH.  I found my shocks full of sediment and crap.  I took as much apart as I could and cleaned out sludgy junk from everything.  I even pulled through the outer.
 
I also ditched the Ohlins seals and fitted gixxer ones.  My Ohlins seals always leaked and its the sediment floating to the bottom, then rolling around the seal and getting stuck there that causes the leak.  Putting the gixxer seals on you can see the seal is better.....ok, more stiction, but really, at my level, will I ever notice....NO.....what I will notice is no more leaks.
 
Also, this job is so easy to do, I'm going to do it every time I service the bike.
 
I think even if I had the Ohlins seals on there now I wont get any more leaks....no more sediment in my forks.....I've never seen my forks get this cleaned when watching the strip down rebuild, but it was so bad the damper spring on the rebound was so caked in the stuff I actually thought the spring was a coated spring with black plastic......a blast with brake cleaner blew it all off.
 
Anyway.....if your shocks are leaking and seem to leak fairly quickly after new seals.....its the crap in the fork that never gets cleaned out.
 
Worth posting I think.  1 hour per fork is all it took me.
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tapmyhed View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tapmyhed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Feb 2016 at 20:25
I used All Balls Racing seal kit, comes with 2 fork seals and 2 dust seals.....all fit nice.
 
Kit no:  56-137  for gen 2 rsv Ohlins shocks
 
wilh motrex racing 5W fork oil, low friction.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Spoonz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Feb 2016 at 20:39
Word of warning re the gixxer seals Tap. They vastly accelerate the wear on the nitride as the inner diameter is fractionally smaller.
 
 
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IanG View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IanG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Feb 2016 at 21:01
It should go without saying that all that is also relevant to Showa's

I can't understand why people don't service their own kit,there's nothing super special involved tooling wise although you can buy all the necessary if you can't make your own.

I've just had mine stripped completely and modified the valves before customising the shim stacks and while it might not give me what I want first time around I now know enough to make adjustments in the right places to get there in the end.

On the seal front I fitted SKF super low stiction seals and wipers,what a difference that makes,I saw  a demo vid online (although it wasn't this one)  that convinced me to try them.


www.apriliaperformance.co.uk
www.apriliaforum.co.uk
www.apriliaownersclub.co.uk

Looking forward to the next track day
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote legend88 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Feb 2016 at 21:15
That's a fantastic difference and I would think you should feel that when riding. Have you ridden yet with them in? And where did you get them?

Then again, in the video they might just have used worn seals Big smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote m9rko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Feb 2016 at 21:39
I have to second this.... I did my seals a few weeks ago and it was one of the most pleasant, straight forward and enjoyable jobs I've done. No seized bolts to worry about, you can bring the forks out of the cold and into the house to do at your leisure... I didn't even use a vice, only special tool needed was the top cap tool!

I did however go for Ohlins seals, there is noticeable wear to the coating on my stanchions from a previous owner fitting GSXR seals

I did mean to take some photos and write a guide, but it slipped my mind, maybe next time... 
www.apriliaperformance.co.uk
www.apriliaforum.co.uk
www.apriliaownersclub.co.uk
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IanG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Feb 2016 at 21:47
There are more than a few videos by different tuners showing the same thing on different forks,+ SKF are not a little company.

And it is actually true,I did a comparison with skf seals on one leg and the 2003 oem still fitted to the other leg after being stripped and cleaned out the same.

I've not ridden the bike yet as it's still not completely built but even when it it's back together the suspension internals are now very different to the way Tojo built them up back in 2003 so it will seem strange anyway and need setting up from scratch.

I was going to get the seal kits from one of the suspension places but found them cheaper from
a place called Wyebuyltd on ebay although I can't seem to get the hyperlink to work.

Not cheap even then @ £47 for two sets

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171760964486?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

www.apriliaperformance.co.uk
www.apriliaforum.co.uk
www.apriliaownersclub.co.uk

Looking forward to the next track day
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tapmyhed View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tapmyhed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Feb 2016 at 13:25
think I'll have to check those seals out, mine will do for now as the coating had worn on mine already. ...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CarsOrBikes Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb 2016 at 22:40
I recently did mine too, same thing, cleaned out all the rubbish in the fork, 5w Factory oil and OE seals. Like Spoonz says, and others depending on where you read it, other bikes seals accelerate wear apparently. The cost is low, just change them when they start to leak or off season if it suits.
 
I bought the top cap tool off ebay and it is a perfect fit. 500ml oil in each leg, same pretty much as the amount measured on removal. Also haven't used it yet as was doing the stator.
 
The crud in them is quite bad even at low mileage, amazing every tech doesn't clean these.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rybes Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Feb 2016 at 10:56
Originally posted by markrsvr15 markrsvr15 wrote:

What tool do you need to get the top off the ohlins mine need doing in think


one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aprilia-RSV-Tuono-Ohlins-Fork-Cap-Tool-/111076500840?hash=item19dcace568
ive just got my first vtwin and i think i got the right one
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote foxy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Feb 2016 at 11:13
I've just got a pair of K Tech seals for a tenner off ebay. Can I re-use my old dust seals? I've never worked on forks before, but with you lot saying it's easy, has given me a bit more confidence to try it. Is the fork cap tool, the only specialist tool I'll need?
www.apriliaperformance.co.uk
www.apriliaforum.co.uk
www.apriliaownersclub.co.uk

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sam.moz86 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar 2017 at 06:36
So I picked up my new bike yesterday and it needs a bit of love. something that needs doing is the fork seals, I'm prepared to give it a go (I've stripped forks before) my only worry is getting the set up correct afterwards. Whats the best way to set them back up?

With regards to fork seals and pricing I've found these. A lot cheaper than the £47 you mentioned Ian, not sure if 1 qty is a pack of 2 seals or single, do I trust they are "Genuine Ohlins Fork seals"?



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tifa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar 2017 at 09:35
Good thread.
As the op has mentioned, it's really important to clear that sediment out when you service forks.
More so with upsidowners. If it's left in there, the sediment will find it's way down to the seal lip, and the small particles will prevent a good seal against the stanchion.
+1 on the SKF seals. Not only to they have less stiction, they are kinder to the nitride coating.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sam.moz86 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar 2017 at 09:39
Originally posted by Tifa Tifa wrote:

Good thread.
As the op has mentioned, it's really important to clear that sediment out when you service forks.
More so with upsidowners. If it's left in there, the sediment will find it's way down to the seal lip, and the small particles will 5prevent a good seal against the stanchion.
+1 on the SKF seals. Not only to they have less stiction, they are kinder to the nitride coating.


What's the best way to clear out all of the sediment? Leave them hang overnight? Can any cleaners be used?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Prsv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar 2017 at 10:10
Wind off preload first then use ohlins tool with top yoke undone before removing forks. when draining don't lose needle and spring from damper rod. Flushed mine with parafin.
Set up 5w oil I find 100mm air gap makes them better at handling road bumps.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Spoonz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar 2017 at 11:12
The damper rod should be raised when measuring the oil height as well as it doesn't sit in the oil bath normally when re attached to the top cap and will give you a false reading.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sam.moz86 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar 2017 at 11:47
Love this forum knowledge. What's the air gap from Factory?
I guess the 100mm gap just softens everything up a bit.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Prsv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar 2017 at 12:09
85mm but unless you do stoppies won't get near full travel.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Prsv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar 2017 at 12:25
Annoying bit is takes 550ml per leg so need 2 bottles of fluid.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Spoonz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar 2017 at 12:26
Second what PSRV said. 85mm way too stiff in the lower part of travel. The lower the air gap the faster the damping ramps up.
 
100mm makes it much better at handling those big hits like pot holes etc without knocking your fillings out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BOL D'OR Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar 2017 at 13:50
Will give this a go when my Ohlins seals inevitably pop again.
TBH I don't mind paying the like of MH racing to do the actual work, it's the added cost of delivery/collection/insurance that stings.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CarsOrBikes Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Mar 2017 at 22:34
Seals from Brook suspension are fine, I used them too,

Just divide a litre bottle of 5w oil, each leg takes .5 litre, the air gap is only for those wishing to fine tune the damper performance according to the Ohlins service manual, so for routine service on most bike I wouldn't get involved with that personally.

I washed all the components out in the sink with good old washing up liquid haha, it what all good husbands are supposed to do

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sam.moz86 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar 2017 at 11:21
I did mine, piece of cake. Granted I didn't get involved with the valves ect but changing the seals and oil was a doddle, saved a few quid and got the self satisfaction out of it.
Need to set SAG ect now, front and rear. Any threads recommended to have a look at? I've used the search bar and it doesn't bring anything up other than an error message.
 
Slowly finding my way around the ape!
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