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aaressveeguy View Drop Down
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    Posted: 05 Dec 2018 at 02:27
OK, so given the general lack of activity and banter here during these depressing winter months, I have decided to help -so this winter recomissioning  thread for my RSV giving you'll a chance to pitch in with suggestions and answers to my never ending questions TongueWink
Things which need doing -
1)Head bearing replacement
2)Fork rebuild
3)shock linkage plate inspection and bearing replacement.
4)Clutch bleeding
5)rear brake bleeding
6)Clutch jet replacement
7)finding out the source of the very faint oil seepage and then fix it
8)Getting the stand switch to work again- currently disconnected


Things which I want to do
1)master cylinder upgrade
2)some carbon fibre covers for the swingram to hide the exhaust inflicted gouging!
3)clutch slave cylinder upgrade
4)shock linkage plate upgrade-thicker plates from aprilia performance?
5)Forza chip
6)Redrat collector upgrade
7)That brown connector upgrade
8)Battery upgrade(possibly to Lithium Ion-not sure!)

I'd go after the  'need doing' stuff first,in no specific order really, and then the'want' stuff.
But the head bearings is definitely the first thing to do. I have ordered some allballs tapered bearing kit. So here's my question-

How do I lift the front? I have the abba stand but not the front lifter. Donot want to spend £50 on it and sorry can't fab one myself as donot have that facility.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote constant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Dec 2018 at 03:01
for the abba get the swingarm removal kit it is much better than the ones used in the pivot they screw into the foot rest part of the frame i left mine on and easier to get the bike on the stand then a bottle jack under the motor to lift the front
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote constant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Dec 2018 at 03:14
i use marksman bearings they have all you need bearing wise they do linkage kit get johnboy starter cables you dont need lithium i used a chock block for the brown connector quick easy does the job 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote redratbike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Dec 2018 at 07:32
1)Head bearing replacement ball or taper? tapered just reread your postThumbs Up
2)Fork rebuild   thicker oil different springs/valves  or standard? for a bit of bling Griff can get them anodised in any colour you like
3)shock linkage plate inspection and bearing replacement. a must do on these bikes marksmen bearing kit as above
4)Clutch bleeding fit a bleed banjo bolt at the clutch m/c to help
5)rear brake bleeding use the hang the caliper up high trick
6)Clutch jet replacement fiddly but worth it for the price
7)finding out the source of the very faint oil seepage and then fix it where abouts is the leak, common  one is rocker cover gasket ?
8)Getting the stand switch to work again- currently disconnected strip and check wiring or new switch? remember mine caused loads of grief kept cutting the engine on one trip so unplugged it


Things which I want to do
1)master cylinder upgrade brembo or accossato £££..cheap upgrade rsv4 or ducati m/c or even gen2 item
2)some carbon fibre covers for the swingram to hide the exhaust inflicted gouging! pro-fiber I think ask diablo on here for feedback who he used  or chris wray on facebook makes them
3)clutch slave cylinder upgrade oberon or factory racing think the factory is half the price of the oberon
4)shock linkage plate upgrade-thicker plates from aprilia performance? ?think only gen2 thicker plates are available ? I may be wrong
5)Forza chip see Ed Elliot  on here for an fr200
6)Redrat collector upgrade yay! just let me know
7)That brown good idea
8)Battery upgrade(possibly to Lithium Ion-not sure!) these are good ask dog78, I run one and the weight saving is crazy , seems to spin the old rotax over ok you need a special charger


www.apriliaperformance.co.uk
www.apriliaforum.co.uk
www.apriliaownersclub.co.uk
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Af1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Dec 2018 at 13:13

lithium batteries are excellent. I dont know about you, but ive found that normal lead acid batteries seem to fail quicker and quicker. The one on my Tuareg would start to bulge after a few months. I checked the regulator rectifrier and it seemed to be with tolerance.
 Could be the makers of lead acid batteries are cutting corners.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IanG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Dec 2018 at 16:23
Clap

Yup,having had lead acid and now lithium there's no way I'd ever go back to old tec now.

Even if it was only for the extended life sat unattended it would be worth it, but adding in the weight saving and smaller size as well it's a no brainer for me

I was unconvinced but I took a leap of faith and I'm glad I did.  
  
Lead acid batteries belong in the same past as acetylene headlights.  Imho   Wink

Oh,and a set of Mr Walkers renowned uprated cables is a MUST HAVE for an older bike,the standard items were barely adequate when these bikes were new.

Also having experienced the difference once I fitted one of Mark's Modded collectors I can say that that I'd never have a single can system without it as it makes that much of a difference to the feel of the bike
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Looking forward to the next track day
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Diablo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Dec 2018 at 18:20
Ah good a winter thread Big smile

Quite comprehensive advice already.

The John Walker (Johnboy on here) heavy duty cable kit is a must. It makes more difference than most other electrical mods, but for best results, upgrade the battery and starter solenoid (150 amp) as well. As Ian sai, the original cables (spaghetti) were barely adequate to pass enough current when new, let alone 16+ years later. You will be surprised how easy it starts. Remove any corrosion you may find on the starter motor terminal carefully.

I've just gone for a lithium battery and charger, not enough experience with it to comment yet, but the weight difference is astounding. That's my main reason for having one. I have heard that they might not be so good with a parasitic drain, such as an alarm fitted.

Can't go wrong with Marks collector Thumbs Up

If you went for full length carbon swingarm covers, I'd recommend Pro-fiber. Bit more expensive, but these are pre-preg carbon, not the heavier wet lay and top quality. The chainside can be a bit of a faff to fit, because of the shape of the swingarm on that side. I don't use the supplied glue, as it would be too hard to remove. Had great results with silicone adhesive. Note not ordinary silicone. It glues as well, but far easier to remove if you change your mind. You can buy the short covers as well, that would cover exhaust chaffing on the arm, but probably not a dent from the silencer.

With the rear brake bleeding, cable tie the caliper as high as it will go to the rear subframe. You will need to twist it round as well so that the bleed nipple is at the very highest point. Also tap the lines etc every now and again, to help any air up to the nipple. Plenty of vids on youtube if you get stuck.

You never mentioned upgrading the sidestand. Is it already done, or wobbling precariously? Another must do  mod. Best stand is the USA spec one, if you can find one (hens teeth) second is the 04-07 Fireblade one. I think I saw a US spec one on Ebay with the foot tab broken off. Easy fix.

Tbh, I'd go for the front lifter at £50 for your ABBA superbike stand. It's a small investment that will pay you back in full. Easy fork removal etc, storing the bike with both wheels off the ground. Not keen on front paddock stands myself. You could get a headstock stand, which are good, but the cheapest I could find at a glance on Ebay was 97 quid for a new one.

The rear linkage bearings etc, should ideally be checked and repacked with grease every year or so, to be safe. Doesn't take long.

Post some pics of your progress as you go, always interesting to see. Good luck Wink


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aaressveeguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec 2018 at 00:13
Sorry for my late reply. Work has been insane, may be everyone wants everything get done before the festivities start. 
Thanks for all the replies guys, especially Redrat , IanG and Diablo for such detailed responses, much appreciated.

I haven't got going yet, just waiting for a dry weekend.
My biggest problem is I lack a garage, so everything gets done on the drive :(
This means I can't work in the rain, although can work during the night if it stays dry. Also very little DIY gets done on weekdays as I finish work in the evening.
It's a bit of a handicap, but I get by somehow-Last winter I did forks rebuild, caliper rebuild, throttle body sync, valve clearance adjustment and many other jobs on my cbr600 :)  

OK, as per suggestions, I have now added Johnboy cables in my list of wants. Btw i already have hitachi 150A solenoid and a 14V battery.
I had already ordered allballs, so will look at marksman when I reach the linkage, which is a later item.

The allballs head bearings and carbon cover have arrived. These are short covers as I didn't quite fancy the full swingarm covers(plus they were expensive). These are gloss, think would have liked matt better, but whatever!get cracking
I am waiting on the abba front lift now, will  get cracking when it arrives.

@Diablo- Yes I did the blackbird stand mod soon after I got the bike. It touches the fairing when retracted, so that has to be sorted. The bike feels lot more stable when stood on it now, no worries there. I want the switch working as well as the PO had disconnected it like many others here. I am thinking of somehow adapting the blackbird switch -can it be done? 
Also what 'special silicone' did you use for the covers? 

@redrat- for the fork rebuild, I was thinking ktech/hyperpro/ohlins spings for my weight and some thicker oil. Haven't seen any valve kits, are there any available for reasonable money? What is recommended compression, rebound or both kits? IF too expensive I'll just replace spring, bushing and seals :) With the master cyclinder, was looking at the brembo 19rcs, but a video on youtube said it touches the clock on full lock? Is there any master cylinder which surely works/fits on the gen1? 

Given so much love for LiIon in the replies, think will surely go for it. My only concern is the sprag. Have seen videos where they say LiIon batteries need warming up with several start attempts. Would it not eat the sprag on our bikes? How has your experience been like guys on cold morning starts?
Also which brand? Shido seems not asking silly money-any good?

Which seals for the fork jobs? I see a pair on the cheap here-
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORK-SEALS-OIL-AND-DUST-SET-APRILIA-RSV-MILLE-2001-2003/223185442615
Are these any good? For my CBR I always went with oem for pretty much everything. But Honda parts were cheaper and plentiful.
Think I'll now try to amass the parts as well and not wait for a particular job to finish and then order for the next job. That way this thread can progress smoothly as well :)

Here are the items I received today


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote constant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec 2018 at 02:07
with johnboys cables the sprag should be fine with the battery i think i read that you turn the lights on to warm it up i like the short carbon covers too i know what you mean about working on the bike outside i was meant to exchange contracts last week on a house with garage got another bike ready to mess around with and the buyer pulled out at the last minute very annoyed looking forward to your progress
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stevex Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec 2018 at 13:49
Originally posted by aaressveeguy aaressveeguy wrote:


The allballs head bearings and carbon cover have arrived. These are short covers as I didn't quite fancy the full swingarm covers(plus they were expensive). These are gloss, think would have liked matt better, but whatever!get cracking


I've got matt carbon front guard and hugger on my Tuono. I bought a carbon dash cover in gloss and just re lacquered it in matt. Halfords do a decent matt lacquer in a rattle can.
People say I don't know Jack Sh1t; but I do, he lives next door.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IanG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec 2018 at 17:14
AS far as the Li on battery needing warming,I just turn the ignition and and leave it for a couple of seconds. Although I only have one fitted to my Gen2 atm so the lights come on automatically.

Regarding fork seals the only ones I'd consider buying are the green SKF items,they are more expensive but the difference in quality is worth it,almost zero stiction which makes the fork action much more supple and responsive


www.apriliaperformance.co.uk
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Looking forward to the next track day
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aaressveeguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2018 at 22:08
OK having a tough time sourcing fork seals, bushings etc. Ordered SKF seals and inntec bushing combo from a shop on ebay but tehey are now telling me they listed the bushings incorrectly. I had a look at fowlerparts and they have one of the bushing(top?) on sale. So where to get and which brand for bushing? 
Now, on to springs, what to get? Linear or progressive?Has someone used K tech linear? Or are there Ohlins springs available for the gen1 showa? I have ohlins springs on my cbr600 forks so I know they do for showa, but couldn't find any on ebay for the mille.
I am also looking at the race tech gold valves(type3) on AF1 Racing for USD 179.
Ohlins also do a kit but at twice the price-no thanks!. Have someone used this valving kit(think only compression valves, nothing for rebound). They are US based and seem to be popular.  UK based shops offering someting similar- would like to save the import taxes?
And biggest of all, has someone rebuilt their forks themselves? I could do my cbr forks with no specialised tools-just a 50mm pvc pipe and hammer is all it took to drive the seals down, but they were conventional forks. Am I trying to bite more than I can chew here?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 426hemi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2018 at 22:58
I know skf do the low stiction seals for them and spring wise if it's for track use linear springs but road I would use progressive.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IanG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2018 at 23:26
Originally posted by aaressveeguy aaressveeguy wrote:

OK having a tough time sourcing fork seals, bushings etc. Ordered SKF seals and inntec bushing combo from a shop on ebay but tehey are now telling me they listed the bushings incorrectly. I had a look at fowlerparts and they have one of the bushing(top?) on sale. So where to get and which brand for bushing? 
Now, on to springs, what to get? Linear or progressive?Has someone used K tech linear? Or are there Ohlins springs available for the gen1 showa? I have ohlins springs on my cbr600 forks so I know they do for showa, but couldn't find any on ebay for the mille.
I am also looking at the race tech gold valves(type3) on AF1 Racing for USD 179.
Ohlins also do a kit but at twice the price-no thanks!. Have someone used this valving kit(think only compression valves, nothing for rebound). They are US based and seem to be popular.  UK based shops offering someting similar- would like to save the import taxes?
And biggest of all, has someone rebuilt their forks themselves? I could do my cbr forks with no specialised tools-just a 50mm pvc pipe and hammer is all it took to drive the seals down, but they were conventional forks. Am I trying to bite more than I can chew here?


I believe conventional wisdom says linear springs every time.

Progressive are a catchall idea that saves manufacturers ( and m/c buyers) doing any development work,just buy the general size unit off the shelf for the cheapest price.

Racetec are an American company that seem largely ignored over here by most of the suspension tuners. They are also,in company with Maxton generally derided by all aforesaid places as they all worship at the Ohlins alter.  
That is apart from K-tek who deem themselves better than Ohlins,this a situation reminiscent of the Android/Apple fanbois debate but the Ohlins database is unrivaled worldwide allowing accredited tec's to research query's from any past experiences.    You,the customer,pay for this obviously in their inflated pricing.

Yes,I've serviced and modded a couple of sets of my Showa's and I now have a spare set to adjust and just swap in.  Should I decide to play again it means a bike is not unusable at any time.
 I also bought an old set of forks just to source the cartridges to cannibalize.

The only tools you need are a means to compress the spring enough to access the rebound assy locknut and a thin plate with a 10mm slot in it to rest between the spring collar and the locknut while it's being slackened.   You could use a 10mm open ended spanner at a pinch but I made a tool.
Also useful is an extension rod for the piston to help bleed the cartridge on reassembly,other than that pretty much easy peasy.

For what it's worth the damping is too harsh on compression and unless you are very light the spring is too weak leaving the compression damping tying to do the springs job under braking.

Also they are radically under damped on the rebound side. As you come off the brakes going into a corner the fork immediately rebound causing the bike to run wide or understeer due to the wheelbase lengthening rapidly,more damping corrects this leaving the feeling like it's on rails.  

A little judicious juggling of the shim packs resolves most of the issues without needing any extra shims Wink

Also the typical 'Big Port' Showa valve bodies themselves could do with lapping flat as they are just rough castings,they also benefit from a little flowing with a die grinder or the like.

I haven't needed bushes as yet as both of my sets were low mileage and unmarked and were just reused so I can't comment from experience.  Had I needed some I would have gone for OEM Showa I think,rather than unbranded generic.

I had my old Suzuki forks rebuilt and tuned by Richard at Maxtons and was going to take my Mille forks there as well but then decided to do some research and learn about cause and effect instead so I could learn.  
Even if you don't get the results you want at first attempt it's very quick to strip and adjust them once you've done it once and have some basic tools handy. So much more satisfying doing it yourself,far cheaper too LOL


www.apriliaperformance.co.uk
www.apriliaforum.co.uk
www.apriliaownersclub.co.uk

Looking forward to the next track day
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 426hemi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Dec 2018 at 00:52
I use linear springs but haven't used a linear linkage yet and if you ride solo great , most road riders tend to take pillions, luggage etc and uk roads aren't consistent.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote badapple Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Dec 2018 at 17:18
Good luck with the re commission plenty of good advice above always keen to see what people are up to in the sh*tty months.
I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aaressveeguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2018 at 00:14
@IanG Wow great info, thanks. Looks like I'd go with linear K-tech springs. I am not prepared to sacrifice my wallet at the Ohlins altar. Checked and see Brooks suspension sells these as well as K-tech piston/valve kit. The kit is £220 and seems reasonable, but I am dilly dallying as frankly not sure if it's going to be worth it. I see oem showa fork bushes also available with these guys so that's sorted. 
I note you said- '
unless you are very light the spring is too weak leaving the compression damping tying to do the springs job under braking.'
I find the fork super stiff on my Mille. The PO was from Yorkshire, so surely lot of pies have to do something with that, but do you know what spring rate is the standard fork? On teh CBR I went with 9 , but I am thinking of going with 9.5 for the mille as it's going to be used just for fun.
I am 78 kg/170 lb btw.

@badapple- Thanks, I am going to start tearing it apart this weekend, so will post some photos.

@Redratbike- How do you sell the collectors? Do I send you mine and you get them modded or you sell these separately which means my old collector has to be chucked in the dustbin? 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aaressveeguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2018 at 00:17
Originally posted by 426hemi 426hemi wrote:

I know skf do the low stiction seals for them and spring wise if it's for track use linear springs but road I would use progressive.
I just ordered SKF green oil and dust seals. think the item code is KITG-43S. They also do a KITB-43S which is black , not sure what is the difference.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IanG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2018 at 01:41
Originally posted by aaressveeguy aaressveeguy wrote:

@IanG Wow great info, thanks. Looks like I'd go with linear K-tech springs. I am not prepared to sacrifice my wallet at the Ohlins altar. Checked and see Brooks suspension sells these as well as K-tech piston/valve kit. The kit is £220 and seems reasonable, but I am dilly dallying as frankly not sure if it's going to be worth it. I see oem showa fork bushes also available with these guys so that's sorted. 
I note you said- '
unless you are very light the spring is too weak leaving the compression damping tying to do the springs job under braking.'
I find the fork super stiff on my Mille. The PO was from Yorkshire, so surely lot of pies have to do something with that, but do you know what spring rate is the standard fork? On teh CBR I went with 9 , but I am thinking of going with 9.5 for the mille as it's going to be used just for fun.
I am 78 kg/170 lb btw.

@badapple- Thanks, I am going to start tearing it apart this weekend, so will post some photos.

@Redratbike- How do you sell the collectors? Do I send you mine and you get them modded or you sell these separately which means my old collector has to be chucked in the dustbin? 




Can't remember off the top of my head what the supplied spring rate is to be honest,I did ask Spoonz a while ago as I wanted a slightly stiffer set for my radial Tuono and I think he said that all the Showa's on the Milles and Tuono's were the same rate which is quite believable.

The forks will feel stiff and harsh as the compression damping is so out of the ballpark,once that's sorted you'll probably find the spring action is too soft and supple.

I have to be honest here as say that I really don't understand how anyone can say that the standard gen1 Mille handles well,the Ohlin's equipped R excepted. 

The cartridge setup supplied as Showa OEM is poor at best so I suppose it speaks volumes about how good the chassis must be.

There are some good sources of info there if you're interested enough. Plus most of the suspension tuners will give advice,some more than others though.  Maxton do a good info sheet if you request one.  Although it pretty much says what I and a few others have confirmed by experimentation.

Being honest I researched as much as I could before I took the plunge and ripped my cartridges apart and played with the shim stacks and valves.

Once I found the recommendations from the road racing experts I was able to understand what my bike was doing and that,plus a friend who'd already independently done the work, gave me the confidence to get stuck in.

In fact I may still have a photocopy of an article Ron Williams wrote when the Mille was a production bike. I have already either uploaded it on here somewhere or maybe Pm'd it people.
www.apriliaperformance.co.uk
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aaressveeguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2018 at 00:23
^Thanks IanG, again. I am trying hard to somehow convince myself that my limited abilities would somehow be able to tell the difference between standard valves and K tech valves.
The SSK kit for the mille is listed at £229

https://www.brooksuspension.co.uk/fork-internals/k-tech/k-tech-ssk-revalve-kits/aprilia/aprilia-rsv-mille-showa-k-tech-20ssk-fork-piston-kit-98-03/

I am looking at roughly £400 plus for the fork rebuild inlcluding SKF seals, bushings and K tech spring, hmmm.I wish Santa was real CryConfused

Btw it's high time Gods open a weather recommission thread in the climate forum or something. Another washout weekend looming large Angry

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IanG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2018 at 13:41
Cost was another reason why I decided it was about time I tried doing something myself.

For the cost of some fork oil you could even get by without splitting the legs if the seals and bearings are still good,although the SKF seals are worlds better than the OE ones.

Sometimes even just flushing out the new oil and filling with new stuff can improve things,although only back to the poor set up as when it was new.

Suspension set up is something that the 'experts' will tell you is something best left to them. It may well be,although that depends on ones own servicing skills and preparedness to learn.

Remember,if what you do doesn't give the results you want it's easy enough to get back in there and adjust it again and you are on the road to understanding things for yourself.

The Showa forks are a really basic piece of kit to be starting with Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote redratbike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2018 at 14:29
if you are out on the drive a pop up gazebo /tent maybe the way forward with an electric heater 


Might be worth sourcing a set of 2nd forks like IanG has so you could rebuild them indoors and just swap legs out 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote IanG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2018 at 15:03
That would be the easiest way forward as otherwise it means the bike is up on some sort of stand which is not ideal outside on a drive,especially if it's on a slope.

I bought a set of very good radial Showas complete with brakes for a good price so they are out there,especially as so many people want to swap to the R spec Ohlins.

As far as tools needed:

Some means of supporting the front of the bike to remove the forks.   I used an Abba with front lift arm.

A spanner to loosen the cap nut

A tool to take some tension off the spring to access the rebound assy locknut

A piece of metal with a 10mm slot in it to hold the spring in place while slackening said locknut

An extension rod to stroke the cartridge for bleeding

A syringe to set the oil level when finished

Further to that some sort of bench vise with soft jaws,I used my Black & Decker Workmate bench

Here's a good starting point for your suspension journey  http://v4musclebike.com/articles/RACETECH-SUSPENSION-BIBLE.pdf

This will show the tools and techniques needed although obviously it's short on specific recommendations for applications as they want you send them the work
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IanG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Dec 2018 at 10:57
Here we are (again)  a copy of an article done by Maxton with Performance Bike back in the day


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aaressveeguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2018 at 23:48
Thanks IanG, again! Not very sharp the image above, but what looks like the only useful bit is the fork setup, preload etc but guess that'd vary from rider to rider. Think most of the above is already there in your previous posts. 

I am yet to pull the trigger on the SSK valve kit, still trying to convince myself that I do need them. Including them the fork rebuild alone would cost close to £500 and that's assuming I'd be saving up on labour and no outlay on tools. Speaking of tools I now realize the pvc pipe method I used from driving the seals on my cbr won't work as these are USD forks, so think I will now have to get a seal driver. Thinking of getting the 43mm specific driver as that's pretty much standard fork dia on most jap bikes and is cheap as well.

I ordered Motul 10W fork oil. What do others use here? 10 W or 5W? I am going with 9.5 rate springs, so hopefully doesn't end too stiff with the 10W oil-I weigh approx 80 kg without gear.
I also got some dot 4 brake fluid for brake and clutch bleeding. Read some heated debate on 4 vs 5.1 but settled with 4 as 5.1 think someone said attracts too much moisture Confused

I am almost done with ordering all the stuff needed for the recom minus revalve kit and bushes. 
The other stuff like johnboy cables and modded collector I guess I can get any time later from here after I finish the front end and fluids.
Plan is to quickly get the forks out. The bike can be on the abba while I play with the forks inside
Oh wait I also need the chip, but think will check if the bike already has one. Think Griff did a video on youtube on where to locate the chip, will look that up

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IanG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Dec 2018 at 10:47
 That article was only really for Maxton's comment regarding the base set up.

Seal driver is the correct option of course,that's what I did in the end.
However, certainly not the only way though. You could cut your pvc tube lengthwise and use it the same as a driver.

Also give the stanchions a very close inspection for stone chips etc and gently stone any burrs off before they damage new seals

Tip from an old precision engineer,if you warm the seal area of the alloy leg gently with a hot air gun you'll be able to slide the seal in with finger pressure Wink 

If you use the Green seals you may find a plastic spacer ring in the kit,don't leave it out like I did on my first leg LOL

Have fun
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote damo46 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec 2018 at 00:10
There's an Abba stand in the for sale section at the moment, if your still looking for a descent stand.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aaressveeguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec 2018 at 11:39
Thanks, but too late. I bought the front lift arm kit new(already had the superbike stand).
Slightly less impressed with the kit as the arm mean for lifting the back has a badly tapped thread, so the 'tightener' wouldn't go in fully. Somehow made it work.
Bike is currently sat with fairings removed. Had a good look at the bars and tried the rcs 19 just to see what clearance would be needed and it does hit the dash. Think the easier solution would be to get the bigger stoppers from @redratbike, but I am thinking I'd just get the console holding bracket out and get it dremelled and reweld the dash holding points to move the dash forward to make room.

Looking at the engine I see it has oil patches in many places, but unsure if the seepage is from one place or multiple. Thinking of dropping the engine and probably renew seals.
Any ideas how to go about it? What seals could be redone? I am thinking valve cover seals, clutch and generator seals etc. Haven't dropped an engine before so not feeling comfortable with it.
Or should I try to clean the mess and try to locate the leak? Although the seepage is small and I am unsure it can be seen by just letting the engine run on a stand and in winter?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote redratbike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec 2018 at 16:32
you don’t need to drop the engine to replace any seal 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote constant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec 2018 at 16:37
it could well be the valve cover so cleaning the motor first and letting it run could save you unnecessary work
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