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JMH's 1060 Big Bore project

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dog78 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dog78 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2017 at 14:07
Hi, Gabro had a set of cams ( welded ones) with a long duration, I think he wanted €300 for them, he offered them to me, but I had already acquired the one piece cams by then. He may still have them and all inlets. Instead of the power finishing at 9.6k it will finish at 10.4 which is quite an improvement. But this may affect your piston to valve clearances.
Gabro is an absolute gentleman, very helpfull and knowledgeable always exploring new ideas like Micah. Them cams just a thought, I think they have been modified too, I think the duration of an inlet cam is about 270 degrees and the one he offered me might have had a bit more.
What valve timing are you going to run?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JMH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2017 at 19:08
No sure about the timing. I do not need excessive midrange to make it unrideable so maybe 110/114 or something like that.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JMH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2017 at 19:09
A bit daft question. I've read about these 51->57 TB conversions and how you need to put the cold start mechanism to the newer and larger TB. When I looked at my old one and future one the only thing I needed to take from the old was the intake pressure sensor as the new one did not have this plugged. There is even a place for the idle tuning knob. You just screw it in place.

Do I have this right now:

57 mm to the right.
As I will have the TSS slipper I do not use the vacuum lines. The newer one has some extra tubes, which went to the airbox if I remember correctly. I just plug all the four holes marked with red:


57 mm on the right
Red dots for throttle cables, blue dot for the cold start cable and the green dot accepts the idle adjuster knob. (the one from the old one was bent so I'll use the one still in the bike. I have many TBs)


So, the immense work was to clean the old TB and get the intake pressure sensor (green dot) out and connect it to the lines marked with red dots.


I also checked the adapters for the jets I got from Raimo from Sweden. They are all good. I can get the PCII plugged to the new larger TB.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JMH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2017 at 07:04
I found out that early 2004 TBs can be like that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JMH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Nov 2017 at 19:05
Last weekend we made some layer cakes. Bottom with a“new” cylinder, mid 04 Gen2 head and on top my good old valve cover.



One mistake was observed though. We had the M5 threads done to the cam supportbut missed the fact that the sensor support has short 7 mm diameter guidance sleeves, or whatever. So, we will have that redone.


The heads were checked for straightness and sealing and they were OK. No porting was done after all and we also decided not to TIG weld the cam lobes to the shafts as the cams are standard as well as the valve springs.


The machined front head:



The sensor support



And these holes need some regrinding



The camsprockets were also machined to enable adjustment.

These goodies went in



We put the pistons in from the top and checked that there is just enough space to put the piston pin in place from under without taking the piston too far out.
The piston fiddling was a patient man’s game as the three-piece lowest oil ring was tricky. But we got there eventually. The top compression rings were quite easy. All was done by hand with a small screwdriver as the tool.

The manual says to place the piston ring gaps with 120 degree spacing. This did not satisfy my mate and he checked what the samurais would do (Yamaha). So, we ended up the two gaps of the lowest oil ring with roughly a 90 degree spacing on the exhaust side and the top compression rings with a ~90 degree spacing on the intake side. I cannot remember where we put the lowest oil ring spacer ring gap. Somewhere probably.


The crank and balancer bushings have arrived so by end of next week they will be in their place. The diameter of the bores will be measured as well as the crank diameter.
The clutch and gearbox are on their way and hopefully are in time so that we can start to put the engine together end of next week.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JMH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Nov 2017 at 07:45
A have a question about clutch springs. What to use with the TSS slipper and increased power?
 
Old OEM ones
EBC 10% stiffer
Barnett heavy duty ones
 
Any experience?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Paddedcell100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Nov 2017 at 08:57
Originally posted by JMH JMH wrote:


A have a question about clutch springs. What to use with the TSS slipper and increased power?
 
Old OEM ones
EBC 10% stiffer
Barnett heavy duty ones
 
Any experience?


I picked my bike up from AP a few weeks ago after having a 1060 build and a TSS and Surflex fitted, I asked them to stick a set of heavy duty Barnett springs in mine (as recommended by Hemi, as that was the same set up he's got in his 1103).
It's only a few weeks old but all good so far, finding neutral is a bit of a game still but you can usually get it as you are rolling to a stop with a couple of up and downs and I'd rather have a clutch that can take the power than one that finds neutral easily.
Better to have something you don't need than need something you don't have....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JMH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Nov 2017 at 10:17
OK.
 
Might need to add the springs to the list at least.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JMH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Nov 2017 at 11:53
Maybe I'll go with the old standard friction plates and old standard roughened steel plates together with 10% stiffer EBC springs and the higher preload the kit offers.
 
Springs are only 13 €.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Paddedcell100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Nov 2017 at 15:44
Originally posted by JMH JMH wrote:


Maybe I'll go with the old standard friction plates and old standard roughened steel plates together with 10% stiffer EBC springs and the higher preload the kit offers.
 
Springs are only 13 €.


I think the struggle to find neutral aspect is a signature thing with the Surflex clutch pack , on these bikes anyway.

its a bit of a pain but unless you were going to use it for commuting or doing a lot of town/city miles(on a 1060 kitted bike? )then it's something im.happy to live with for a clutch that's up to the job of handling the extra power.
I only went for a Surflex after asking Hemi what he used and him telling me that a Barnett clutch soon started slipping after his 1103 build, so that's the way I decided to go as well, I think AP use an EBC clutch combined with Barnett springs normally mind you🤔
Better to have something you don't need than need something you don't have....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JMH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Nov 2017 at 15:53
I'll measure the stack on the used ones first as per RSV manual before deciding on new plates. If within spec I'll stick to them. If not, maybe new EBC plates. We'll see. At least the springs are on order.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JMH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2017 at 23:15
Originally posted by dog78 dog78 wrote:

Hi, this is the correct order for the TSS slipper
Fibre first then metal then fibre then metal then metal then alternate to the end with one metal missing.
They don't make that clear in the instructions.
It means that the last plate which is in contact with the pressure plate is a fibre. Also you leave one steel plate out.
If you don't have the stack height measurements, I could look them up for you.
You may want to put a Surflex plate kit to take the extra power.
 
A small update is coming but I am still coming back to this.
 
S=steel F-friction
 
Engine..................................................................................................clutch pressure plate
 
Standard one:
1|2|3|4|5|6|7|8|9|0|1|2|3|4|5|6|7|8|9
$|F|S|F|S|F|S|F|S|F|S|F|S|F|S|F|S|F|S
 
Suggested one for TSS:
1|2|3|4|5|6|7|8|9|0|1|2|3|4|5|6|7|8
F|S|F|S|S|F|S|F|S|F|S|F|S|F|S|F|S|F
 
How I still think it should be for TSS as two steel plates agains each other does not make any sense. It is still a clutch working just the same and there is just the lifting movement to ease up the pressure on the stack. Also, most clutches have fibre plates top and bottom. So, no steel plates against each other but the bottom marked steel plate should go missing as it does on the Sigma clutch as well.
 
1|2|3|4|5|6|7|8|9|0|1|2|3|4|5|6|7|8
F|S|F|S|F|S|F|S|F|S|F|S|F|S|F|S|F|S
 
 
I do understand that if you want to have 18 plates in total and friction on top and bottom the suggested one is the way to go. I just cannot get my head around that suggestion.
 
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote redratbike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2017 at 00:00
As dog78 told you it's odd but it works don t try and reinvent the wheel listen to people that have the tss working with the clutch plates as suggested


www.apriliaperformance.co.uk
www.apriliaforum.co.uk
www.apriliaownersclub.co.uk
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dog78 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2017 at 01:05
I had the same problem about getting my head around it, but after getting it from Tss and Yoyodyne. But that order with the two steels together made sense and I also discussed it with Tapmyhead who built his own 1103 motor building his own manual cam chain adjusters and a very competent engineer, he also agreed with that order. The oem has the steel against the pressure plate which don't sit right with me.
Having two steels together is just like having a fat or thick steel plate. They are both on splines so like I say it's just a thick plate. it's how Shane had it Newzeland whom I bought it of, I did try it both ways but it definitely works better the way i said. Yoyodyne, Tss insist you must have a fibre against the pressure plate so that is the only way to achieve that. It's perfect so I would go with what they say and the previous owner of my clutch.
Remember the clutch is going behave in a totally different way from standard so that may be the reason. I think Adam's is setup different to mine and he's struggling to get it in Neutral. Mine has always had that problem and it was the same with the oem clutch and I know the problem is the slave or to much freeway also the jet has not been done on mine. So people do fit it the other way but I went down the recommended and proven route.
I can't get my head round how you can back it in 😂
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dog78 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2017 at 01:15
You also said most clutches have friction top and bottom which is what you end up with two steels together. The oem is not setup like most clutches.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JMH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2017 at 07:58
OK OK maybe I just need to
 
Was it the marked bottom steel you left out? That is how I would do it then.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dog78 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2017 at 08:34
Yes it was that one that I left out. Haha you don't need that much leap of faith bud.
It took me a lot working out trying to understand it, but there is a few factors to take into account,
1 you got to have an odd number of plates to finish with the same plate top and bottom.
2 by putting the two steels together it makes it one plate which then makes it an odd number as they would count as one, just think of it as a a thick plate you made, the two steel plates are touching on splines so stay stationary to each other as they are locked together by the spines.
Shane that I bought the clutch from run it that order for 1500 race kilometres.
When you get your head around the 2 points I made you will see it in your head.
I seen people doing it the other way and it's wrong, like you say most clutches start and finish with the fibre.
The only thing I can think of with the oem order, that it was so that when the Diaphragm pulled on the clutch rod the pressure plate lifted cleanly of the steel plate underneath as the fibre may have stuck to it.
Get it together and we will see at the Aprilia trackday 17th July at Donington, bit of a trip for though. Good luck, MMD.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dog78 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2017 at 08:54
I have just finished porting one head, valve guides left the same length but shaped. Getting the three angle valve cut in the new year, then I shall get a comparison on a flow bench to see the difference in the CFM between the two. May go down Redratbike suggestion with Epoxy resin on the inlet tracks. I would like to get an increase 30% would be great also a thirty degree cut back on the inlet valves.
I noticed in your pics the piston boxes said Omega, is that the make of pistons you are using?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JMH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2017 at 09:52
^
Yes. That is what came from apriliaperformance. Interested in details of your port job and flow bench results as the workshop that pressed the crank/ balancer bushings will get a flow bench next year.
 
Maybe....Tongue
 
And fookin' hell. I can edit my posts now.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JMH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Dec 2017 at 09:44
There is a slight delay in the project and I’ll explain why. I bought a clutch basket and Gen2 gearbox from Tash but there was a small hick up that has been corrected by Tash, so credit to him. Anyway, the clutch basket got damaged during the transport so what I did as a plan B I got the damping springs and plates from it and used my old basket. As I looked at the gearbox it was missing one gear on one of the shafts and I was first like bugger. Then I realized the box was Gen1 type and most of the gears looked better than on mine and the ones that were not so good were OK on mine. So, I ordered new circlips for ~30 € and assembled a good Gen1 gearbox as a plan B for the gearbox.

Meanwhile Tash rolled up his sleeves and sent me a new clutch and the gearbox he was supposed to send. He must have a parts pile there (giggly thing). Anyway, the replacement shipment is coming to me at no cost so hats off to Tash. What a sport.

During the weekend on week 50 we look at what clutch and gearbox goes into the machine as the assembly begins for real.


I had two old clutch stacks, which measured 46,7-46,8 mm and 47,0-47,1 mm. I will use the thicker one and I roughened the steel plates gently with 120 grit sandpaper and washed the plates with soap water to get rid off any loose steel particles. I suppose the roughing is more like honing and the plates get a better oil film and then do not get build up so easily. The plate order has been solved above so nothing about that. Just as a reminder I ordered the EBC clutch springs (10% stiffer) and I will use the longer spacers from the TSS clutch.

The crank and balancer bushings got in place (all yellow) and measurements were made. The clearance for crank is calculated with the thinner end so from the thicker end you need to take out 0.005 mm.


Crank

Left:45,950
Right:45,955

Clearances:

Left vertical +,03; Left horizontal +,04
Right vertical +0,04 (minus 0,005) Right horizontal +,06 (minus 0,005)

Balancer
31,99
31,99
Clearance:+0,05

The assembly grease used was Red Line Assembly Lube. That candy looking paste is known not to cause any clutch issues.

Picture of the old bushings:
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JMH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Dec 2017 at 21:09
A bigger update to write as the engine is as far as ready to be measured for timing. A question before that, though.

As we assembled the engine I noticed something funny I did not realize while taking it apart. The coolant pump drive gear sits closest to the engine on the balance shaft. When you put it together the lower washer, the drive gear and the upper washer all pass the key on the shaft and the gear is held to its position by pressure from the "gear stack" it has in front of it. There was no other way putting it together as far as we read the manual and looked at the parts.

Everything OK?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JMH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Dec 2017 at 10:54
"What are these nuts for? A train?”
“Who the f**k has designed this?”
“Them Yamasaki engines are so simple to work on.”

My mate will unlikely send his CV to Piaggio group. Anyway, here was the starting point last weekend.




The other half of the casing got new seals for the counter shaft, clutch rod and gear selector shaft. Then it was a matter of dropping in the gearbox. We finally opted for the previously assembled Gen1 gearbox and the Gen2 version will stay on the shelf. Now that I have a spare gearbox the current one will never sh*t itself.



We had put the conrods on the crank as per procedure although we estimated the final 70 degree turn by eye. The crank was dropped in and we dropped the gasket in its place before mating the case halves. The gasket is funny as the small triangular area between the cylinders does not have space for pins so the gasket runs continuously through the cylinder bottoms. Once the mating and tighteningis done one needs to cut the gasket and carve it with a sharp object on level with the engine case surface. I did this with a knife with the results seen in the picture. Later when you put the cylinders in place you put some Loctite 574 on the seam and then the cylinder base gasket.



Two out of four cutting points marked.




Before dropping the cylinders in place it was a matter of some heavy tightening. Crank clutch side 230 Nm, clutch 170 Nm, balance shaft clutch side 150 Nm and flywheel 130 Nm. The crank for example has Loctite 648 and a spring washer on top of the OTT torque setting. The designer has forgotten the security pin. Basically the flywheel was torqued down with a torque wrench. The rest was torqued to ~100 Nm and then we used a gun and observed the nut movement. A picture below to show how for example we torqued down the crank clutch side nut. The marker pen markings highlighted in the picture.

The crank locking tool was a standard M8 bolt, out of which we took the first 2 threads away to fit it to the locking slots. Unfortunately the threads were too short so we made 15 mm more to that one… by hand. Sweaty.




We made a decision between the clutch crowns and the one sent by Tash went in as it had less marks from the clutch plates. Springs were EBC +15% and from the TSS magic box we took the red longer spacers. Faster color.

The cylinders were a bit of pain in the ass to drop in, especially as I was holding the package up weakened by previous night’s North West 200 DVD and some red wine. You need to pull the pistons as low as you dare to get the piston pin in place but in they went.

To tighten the cylinders we had a Spezial Tool, which we used so that the torque wrench was in 90 degree angle to it.



Voilá




Then it was a matter to time the engine roughly. The last time I did this the rear camchain had snapped so I started from the front cylinder then. This time we started from the rear cylinder as per manual and did I fookin’ got it wrong the first time. Yes. Some thinking and reading and we got it. It is not hard. One just needs to concentrate (and read!).

We measured the valve clearances and three intake valves were tight. ~0,10 mm. I had taken the shims out from the old heads and we got the clearance to 2 x 0,20 mm and one 0,20- mm. Upper limit is 0,18 mm. That’ll do for me. We are on the safe side and I end up measuring the clearance way before 15 000 km is full with the engine.

All the above done it was time to figure out how to time the cams. We need to mount the timing disc to the crank somehow and my mate had another Spezial Tool in his garage. We just have M8 threads done to the bolt and that is it.

Flywheel bolt taken out and Spezial Tool in place.



Here it is after the weekend. The next thing we aim to do is to run in the engine by turning it by hand on the table. Also known as timing the cams of a V2 engine.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dog78 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Dec 2017 at 12:41
Good work, well done. I bet you can't wait to hear it run,always a nice moment after a rebuild. I may take the flywheel weight down by 25% but retain it on the Gen 2 motor when I do the big Bore.
I am looking at some Kent cams but wondering if the longer duration will make that much difference compared to four one piece inlets.
The good thing about the Kent cams they are billet so stronger than forged or pressed type.
Did you tac weld the cams?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote redratbike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Dec 2017 at 12:47
Originally posted by dog78 dog78 wrote:

Good work, well done. I bet you can't wait to hear it run,always a nice moment after a rebuild. I may take the flywheel weight down by 25% but retain it on the Gen 2 motor when I do the big Bore.
I am looking at some Kent cams but wondering if the longer duration will make that much difference compared to four one piece inlets.
The good thing about the Kent cams they are billet so stronger than forged or pressed type.
Did you tac weld the cams?
They will regrind your own cams
 
this is from 2013 when I enquired if you click on the blue part numbers it will take you to the kentcams site with the valve lift specs etc.
 

The cams prices are ,

 

The cost to regrind a set is GBP260.00 + vat  and would need the cams for 10 days.

The cost for a billet set is GBP790.00 + vat and delay would be 6 to 8 weeks from receipt of an order/deposit.

 

Regards

 

Tony Woodward.

 

www.Kentcams.com

 

 

Good morning,

Please can you let me know the price and availability of these cams ,are they on new blanks or regrinds on old cams

Part No.

Part Type

Description

Manufacturer

Make/Model

Engine Size

APR01

Camshaft

Sports 

Aprillia 

RSV 

1000cc 

APR02

Camshaft

Sports 

Aprillia 

RSV 

1000cc 

APR03

Camshaft

Race 

Aprillia 

RSV 

1000cc 

 

 



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JMH View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JMH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Dec 2017 at 13:33
Originally posted by dog78 dog78 wrote:

Good work, well done. I bet you can't wait to hear it run,always a nice moment after a rebuild. I may take the flywheel weight down by 25% but retain it on the Gen 2 motor when I do the big Bore.
I am looking at some Kent cams but wondering if the longer duration will make that much difference compared to four one piece inlets.
The good thing about the Kent cams they are billet so stronger than forged or pressed type.
Did you tac weld the cams?
 
No welding on the cams as the cam profile and valve springs stay the same. Additionally, there is no plan to increase the rev limit.  They have held for 13 some years so I hope they will do fine in the future as well.
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My riding lines are like Hendrix's solos. Unexpected and always different.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dog78 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Dec 2017 at 14:14
Originally posted by JMH JMH wrote:

Originally posted by dog78 dog78 wrote:

Good work, well done. I bet you can't wait to hear it run,always a nice moment after a rebuild. I may take the flywheel weight down by 25% but retain it on the Gen 2 motor when I do the big Bore.
I am looking at some Kent cams but wondering if the longer duration will make that much difference compared to four one piece inlets.
The good thing about the Kent cams they are billet so stronger than forged or pressed type.
Did you tac weld the cams?

 
No welding on the cams as the cam profile and valve springs stay the same. Additionally, there is no plan to increase the rev limit.  They have held for 13 some years so I hope they will do fine in the future as well.

Hi Red, I have seen a set of Kent cams, but I have to find if they are APR03 the stage three.
If they are and I can get them for a decent price I may have them. My problem was that the followers as Kent call them were 37 quid each and with 8 needed it would prove expensive.
But I found out VR8 is running them on his 1127 with oem followers or as I would say shim buckets and has no problems.
It would make it more powerbandy but as as it would be in the higher rev range it would be fine.
They are are the best part of 1k to buy new so may be worth considering billet cams.
Spoonvalley run them on their bikes. The only thing that worries me is the piston to valve clearances. The recommended valve timing is 110/110 recommend by Kent. VR8 couldn't really say too much concerning the piston to valve clearances as he's got an 1127 kit on his, but maybe worth a punt.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JMH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec 2017 at 13:27
A quick question to those more familiar with Rotax cam timing effects.
 
 
We got the rear cylinder timing to IN/EX to 111/111.

Ran out of space to manouvre. How does that sound for timing? (Goal was 110/114)

The day was much wasted as we got on the wrong track as the cam chain was not tight and messed up the measurement and we did silly things. Eventually we put a M16 bolt to squeeze the tensioner to keep the chain tight during the measurement and got to the result above. Live and learn.

Next time we do the front and hope to get near near 111/111 if that sounds OK.

Edit:

That is standard 2004 Gen2 heads in a 1060 BB.
Mille Aarrr -02 & 05 625 SXC
My riding lines are like Hendrix's solos. Unexpected and always different.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dog78 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec 2017 at 14:19
Hi,I would use s carbide bit in a dremmel and elongate the the cam wheels and get to your original goal, that's a good timing 110/114 good for hp, with the kit you should have plenty of torque
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JMH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec 2017 at 15:31
Question is that what does this do?
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My riding lines are like Hendrix's solos. Unexpected and always different.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote redratbike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec 2017 at 16:23
Originally posted by JMH JMH wrote:

Question is that what does this do?
.to optimise the timing to get the most out of your engine...Mille engines are notorious for having sloppy cam timing from the factory which is why some bikes seem to make mega power with simple mods and others don't .

Also don't forget to measure your clearance between piston and valve


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