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Healtech Shift light pro installation Gen2

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dog78 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 02 Dec 2017 at 11:23
Has anyone installed the above, is it straight forward? I have just bought one from Holland, it is new so may have some instructions. I have also heard the light is very bright almost too bright.
All advice appreciated, thanks.
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dog78 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dog78 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2017 at 10:06
Sorted, it still has the instructions. Downloaded the software to set it up looks like you can change the colours, flashing time and brightness, so should be ok. It would be nice to have a shift light that you can see easier than the oem one, plus the colours will give me a better ideas of the revs are. Might be able to use ear plugs, I don't at the moment as it too easy to hit the Rev limiter, not good with pressed cams.
Will use one piece forged ones with big Bore.
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Diablo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Diablo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2017 at 12:21
Nice one Richard, they look like good bits of kit.

Can you not just tig the lobes on the camshafts, or are you going for something more exotic?
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dog78 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dog78 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2017 at 16:05
Yes Rick I would weld them, as the pressed ones have been known to spin. Just a small tac on where they are pressed should be sufficient. I managed to get get some one piece forged cams which came in 06 onwards.
Shyted kindly helped me out with them,I will using inlets instead of the exhausts cams. So all inlets this will improve the duration and lift which in turn means the power will finish at 10.4k instead of 9.6k, this what I have read and it makes sense.
And 800 revs of more power, haha you know the Mad Dog Developments as you call me. You could use Kent stage 3 cams, but last time I looked they about £1k.
Also the timing 110/114 for more hp than torque, they are a torquey motor anyway and the extra capacity should give it enough extra torque.
I think JMH has welded his cams on his 1060 build. It's got to be safer, the cams spinning would certainly bring tears 😭 to the eyes especially when you think of the piston to valve clearances.
I am going to have 1.5mm on the inlet and around 2 mm on the exhaust I haven't decided on the exhaust yet, bit more research needed.
I have nearly finalised the configuration and spec now, and I will be doing it with a spare engine as I want to ride mine next year, I have spare big valve heads 06 onwards and barrels, you can always tell the big valve heads they have 360 written in the exhaust ports and have the one piece cams.
I hope that is of some help Rick, everyone has their on take on it. I suppose that's mine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Diablo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Dec 2017 at 15:11
Thanks Mad Dog Developments, some good points there. Big smile

Just a little bit of fusion (cam lobes) with the tig, no filler needed.

Interesting about using the inlet/exhaust cams, duration and lift. I'll have a read up about it mate. Thumbs Up Thumbs Up




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dog78 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dog78 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Dec 2017 at 17:47
You're always welcome Rick   yes them cams are impressive, Gabro and Micah recommended highly. Infact the Gen 1 are harder for wear from what I been told.
Looking forward to CFM porting results in a couple of months.
800 revs of extra power shouldn't be dismissed.
The only cosmetic thing I might do is get the wheels carbon dipped so the are easy to clean.
Carbon Dymags if I had money to burn 😂
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Diablo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2017 at 22:50
Originally posted by dog78 dog78 wrote:

Yes Rick I would weld them, as the pressed ones have been known to spin. Just a small tac on where they are pressed should be sufficient. I managed to get get some one piece forged cams which came in 06 onwards.
Shyted kindly helped me out with them,I will using inlets instead of the exhausts cams. So all inlets this will improve the duration and lift which in turn means the power will finish at 10.4k instead of 9.6k, this what I have read and it makes sense.
And 800 revs of more power, haha you know the Mad Dog Developments as you call me. You could use Kent stage 3 cams, but last time I looked they about £1k.
Also the timing 110/114 for more hp than torque, they are a torquey motor anyway and the extra capacity should give it enough extra torque.
I think JMH has welded his cams on his 1060 build. It's got to be safer, the cams spinning would certainly bring tears 😭 to the eyes especially when you think of the piston to valve clearances.
I am going to have 1.5mm on the inlet and around 2 mm on the exhaust I haven't decided on the exhaust yet, bit more research needed.
I have nearly finalised the configuration and spec now, and I will be doing it with a spare engine as I want to ride mine next year, I have spare big valve heads 06 onwards and barrels, you can always tell the big valve heads they have 360 written in the exhaust ports and have the one piece cams.
I hope that is of some help Rick, everyone has their on take on it. I suppose that's mine.



Ive got 360 in the exhaust ports and 06 on the side Big smile

Couple more odds and s*ds to buy.

Are the header bungs 18x1.5 for the Autotune Rich?




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dog78 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dog78 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2017 at 04:32
Hi Rick, med time for the Dog, if got that written in the exhaust port buddy, you are in luck, that means you got the big valve heads the biggest they done and also forged one piece cams so no welding needed. About the bungs yes it is 18 mm and 1.5 you mean the pitch, yes I think you are right.
I got a pair ready for the Arrow Headers when I get around to it. I will take some pictures and post remember them later.
That's good news Rick that means you won't have to tear the engine down to tac the cams and the 33mm exhausts valves.
If want to run four inlets you can either weld a set of older ones and put them in or get another two forged inlets.
Hey Rick, come and watch at Donington if you can make it, if they remove my Bursa I will hobbling about for a while, I will just have to see what happens. I been meaning to drop you an email, hopefully I will do that today. Must get over to MDD workshop today for some engineering therapy.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote redratbike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2017 at 06:58
Originally posted by Diablo Diablo wrote:

[QUOTE=dog78]

Ive got 360 in the exhaust ports and 06 on the side

looks like I need to check the gen2 engine I just picked up ...I have a feeling it's a tuono lump with the slightly smaller valves

And I just picked up a Mille loom for the project falco for £15 and it already had a shift light attached ...result


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dog78 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dog78 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2017 at 11:23
Have a look in the exhaust ports Red, a bit of a bit of abrasive paper, it cast in so it does stand proud
.
Didn't Tuono have the bigger valve engine 06 onwards?
Spoonz would know.
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