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Brembo caliper overhaul & pad replaceent |
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Sam.moz86
Premium Member Joined: 18 Jan 2017 Location: Cardiff Status: Offline Points: 481 |
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Posted: 10 Feb 2018 at 07:46 |
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OK, so I had a leaking fork seal, so its time to replace the pads are they're contaminated, what pads do you suggest as the Brembo originals are ridiculously expensive? 4 pad Brembo caliper.
I'm going to take the opportunity to strip, clean & replace the seals whilst their off as i'm fitting HEL brake lines at the same time. Again best place to purchase a seal kit, mounting bolts and the bolts that pull the caliper halves together. |
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426hemi
Premium Member owner of the big bore! Joined: 30 Mar 2012 Location: cannock Status: Offline Points: 5676 |
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Bolts I'm not sure about but pads sbs 👍
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simonb
Moto GP Alien Joined: 11 Feb 2008 Status: Offline Points: 412 |
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Seal kit from here.
https://www.powerhouse.uk I just cleaned everything up with Cillitbang limescale and grime spray. It's worth buying some seal picks as well to get into the seal grooves. |
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budd
Moto GP Alien Joined: 07 Oct 2014 Location: Weast Yorks Status: Offline Points: 720 |
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I'm pretty sure you can get the seals from KTM dealers also but not sure how they'd compare on price, as for the bolts any bolt/fastener supplier will have them, I'll be going over myself to get the very same items later this morning. Pads are more difficult a lot is down to personal preference, riding style, road or track riding etc there are a lot of variables but I agree with post above you can't go wrong with SBS I've had their RS (race sinter) compound in for a while and will be using the same again.
Also brembo use fine thread banjo bolts so ordering the line kit make sure they don't sent the more common course thread bolts. |
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Sam.moz86
Premium Member Joined: 18 Jan 2017 Location: Cardiff Status: Offline Points: 481 |
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Thank you gentlemen. Perfect advise!
I'll check out these pads, mainly road riding with the odd track day this year.
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Sam.moz86
Premium Member Joined: 18 Jan 2017 Location: Cardiff Status: Offline Points: 481 |
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I've been looking at pro bolt but my god they're not cheap.
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Paddedcell100
Moto GP Alien Joined: 01 Nov 2015 Location: Northampton Status: Offline Points: 2591 |
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Thumbs up for SBS from me as well, I use race sinter in mine and I do mainly road with a couple of trackdays and they're great , can wear quite quickly on track though but that's to be expected. Just be careful where you get them as theres a lot of fakes about on eBay, I always get mine from Russ at Ducati Mondo, usually about £45.00 a set I think. |
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Better to have something you don't need than need something you don't have....
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budd
Moto GP Alien Joined: 07 Oct 2014 Location: Weast Yorks Status: Offline Points: 720 |
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Just been to the bolt shop and they are shut Saturday bugger!! So I'll have to wait till Monday, still got plenty to be getting on with , the pro bolt kits are really nice but not worth the extra imho can't go wrong with an industrial fasten supplier pity they don't open on Saturdays 😬 |
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constant
Premium Member Joined: 27 Jun 2014 Location: south london Status: Offline Points: 1060 |
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i done mine last year front and back got the power house stuff and got a set of draper mini picks for a fiver from tool station they do a good job of getting all the crusty stuff out of the grooves and sprayed them using hamerite smooth gold near as dammit match then a clear enamel spray id go for race bolt for what its worth because a lot of places dont sell bolts with shanks on unless you have a look on bay
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tapmyhed
Premium Member Joined: 11 Feb 2008 Location: Suffolk Status: Offline Points: 1944 |
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I did mine last year. New seals, new caliper bolts that hold the halves together and new Radial bolts.
I got my bolts from RaceTi, titanium. Top tip.....if you go titanium. titanium and alloy hate each other. You get bad corrosion, worse than stainless, which is worse than stock. Build the calipers and torque up new bolts (dry, no grease) to manufacturers settings (You dont need button head, you can use shallow nut head instead). Mark them. remove them only one at a time, coat the threads in marine grade anti-sieze....this sh*t is expensive, refit the bolts and tighten to the marks....no further or you will over stress the bolts. the tightness is in the bolt stretch, not the turning force to make with a torque wrench. You can turn a greased bolt further than a dry bolt...thats 2 different stress levels. Greased is something like 20% less force. for the radial bolts.....the big ones......get a tap and die set and carefully retap/clean the old thread in the leg with the same size thread as before.....these threads really gall up over time. take it easy and slowly. then fit the bolts dry, torqu up to 50NM, mark again, then one at a time, remove, grease up and refit to the mark. after that...use the marks daily to make sure the bolts dont move.....they will settle in OK. If you dont, next time you remove the titanium......your bring out the alloy thread and ruin the fork leg. Anyways.....thats what I did. i'll let you know if I have problems....I also used titaniums on the linkage, and fork leg bottoms.....I like titanium. :-)
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Factory 04
Big Bore Whore |
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Sam.moz86
Premium Member Joined: 18 Jan 2017 Location: Cardiff Status: Offline Points: 481 |
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Cheers for the info Nige, With all that in mind I'll probably just go stainless plus the cost of titanium. Are the standard ones Stainless? Mine are in a pretty ugly way.
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426hemi
Premium Member owner of the big bore! Joined: 30 Mar 2012 Location: cannock Status: Offline Points: 5676 |
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Won't be stainless just cad coated.
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badapple
Premium Member Joined: 03 Nov 2014 Location: Norwich United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 5608 |
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Thats some top information I didn't know that about titanium bolts. Everyday is a school day
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I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left
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constant
Premium Member Joined: 27 Jun 2014 Location: south london Status: Offline Points: 1060 |
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if you are still after fastners try surplus suplies i had a look on their sit very their stuff cost pence instead of pounds
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