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GEN 2 RSVR Willinto learn mods topic

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Willintolearn View Drop Down
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    Posted: 02 Oct 2022 at 15:02
First mod done:
Soldered the clutch jet and drilled 0.4mm hole - easy.

Second mod thought to be done - now found out it’s on half done:
Brown connectors - eliminated the one nearest to the reg/rec but cannot get enough slack to sort the other one near the vee.

Question:
Is there enough length on the reg/rec section of the wiring to feed back through the vee then eliminate the vee connector on the stator side then feed it back through the vee?
Years of the big K then an Ape
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote badapple Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Oct 2022 at 15:29
Depending on if its the oem stator. I had mine re wound by West Country windings and they put a large tail on it but I'm not certain if it's original. 
I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Oct 2022 at 16:04
Thanks badapple.
I’ve seen a few examples of long tails on replacements but suspect this (presumably) oem one has, irritatingly, just enough to reach to the far side of the vee only.

Looks like I’ll be feeding wire soldered to the stator section through the vee and then pull the reg/rec length through and then solder stator to reg/rec section on the stator side then pull the birds nest back though the vee.

Good job there’s going to be plenty of rainy days to achieve this.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Oct 2022 at 16:22
Third mod - work around:
I suspect the PC3 USB was set up with the redline at the default 6000 rpm.

Having now set the redline to 10500 rpm I found that there was a chasm of a dip at 6000 rpm……after a short learning session on the Dynojet site I checked the (now) mid-range fuelling and found it to be very rich so dialled it back by 2 steps, result: very minor dip at around 6000 rpm and able to pull through it easily. I am hoping that 1 more step off the PC3 midrange will eradicate the dip completely.
Anybody else experienced this?

I can’t see that there’s anything else influencing this as the bike pulls smoothly from 2000 rpm to the (now) red line at 10500.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wigginsjp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Oct 2022 at 19:34
The red light is just a shift light. 

The hard ‘red line’ or rather limiter is at 11k or 11.5k I think it is off hand. I forget now as it’s been a while since riding a Gen2.

I’d disconnect the PC3 to see if it has an issue and ride the bike to see if there is a dip or not. 
Does the bike have open cans and a free flow filter or open airbox? If so, it could be on Map1 still perhaps. If you’ve exhaust and filter mods it should be on Map2 ideally. The dip could be badly set up throttle bodies also. 
Ref the brown mod connector did you test the stator and reg/rec first? If over or under charging they can make the bike feel hesitant and jumpy around 4-6k. Take the tank off and throttle bodies and you may see you can move the second connector about a bit to give you the wriggle room. I did with my race bike and had plenty of cable to play with. The stator was also located further down than the oem mount so you may find you will be lucky. 

Oh and take the fuel pump out and replace the fuel filters. Definitely the inline one and you may be able to. Lean the tea bag style one out with fresh fuel 

Aprilia RSVR Factory 2007 V2 1060cc Big Bore
Aprilia RSVR Factory 2004 Race Bike
Kawasaki ZX10R 2007 Race Bike
Aprilia Tuono V4 1100 Factory 2020
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Oct 2022 at 22:42
Originally posted by wigginsjp wigginsjp wrote:

The red light is just a shift light. 

The hard ‘red line’ or rather limiter is at 11k or 11.5k I think it is off hand. I forget now as it’s been a while since riding a Gen2.

I’d disconnect the PC3 to see if it has an issue and ride the bike to see if there is a dip or not. 
Does the bike have open cans and a free flow filter or open airbox? If so, it could be on Map1 still perhaps. If you’ve exhaust and filter mods it should be on Map2 ideally. The dip could be badly set up throttle bodies also. 
Ref the brown mod connector did you test the stator and reg/rec first? If over or under charging they can make the bike feel hesitant and jumpy around 4-6k. Take the tank off and throttle bodies and you may see you can move the second connector about a bit to give you the wriggle room. I did with my race bike and had plenty of cable to play with. The stator was also located further down than the oem mount so you may find you will be lucky. 

Oh and take the fuel pump out and replace the fuel filters. Definitely the inline one and you may be able to. Lean the tea bag style one out with fresh fuel 


Thanks for the reply, Wigginsjp
 
PC3: coincidental, maybe? Think I’ll take your advice and disconnect.
Actually it might be better if I zero map it - see if there’s a further difference - then disconnect…..just another pointer?

I must admit to not fully investigating what’s been done to it and am slowly going though it - bit by bit.
Charging/holding charge is good - I will ignore the comedy dash voltmeter and double check my own readings though.

I hadn’t suspected the throttle bodies as it is smooth at tickover or, maybe I’m just stuck in the ‘carb’ way of thinking? It was certainly a lot smoother and more responsive, lower down in the rev range, than the Tuono I test rode back-to-back on the same day.

One thing I do suspect is that it was set up without the baffles in the Akras - hence its now rich and therefore less ‘lumpy’ but…..there is no hesitation when, erm, riding in a spirited fashion.

Feel free to tell me I’m talking a load of old twaddle - like I say - willin to learn.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2022 at 01:58
Update:

Clutch jet = 0.4mm
What a difference - easy neutral finding - even when the engine reached the fan on temperature.
Easier/more consistent biting point. Yes! I know it’s all been said before but, it’s made a good machine even better.

Plans:
1. Purchase chromed hardened rod to act as a poor man’s abba stand.
2. Dismantle dog bone and links plates for bearing inspection and greasing.
3. Start fiddling with suspension settings - current set up is ok but is for someone a tad heavier                   than me. Compared to my old 7R it turns slower, rebounds too quickly and there is little or no feeling       when riding in the wet - or slowly - for that matter.

COMFORT MODS:
4. (A) Reposition front brake master cylinder hose so as to tilt the brake lever down a wee bit more.
    (B) Fabricate riser plates - 13 to 15mm up and back - this may not need doing if 3. makes the                      difference I think it might.


You can tell this is all still new and exciting to me, can’t you?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2022 at 02:15
FYI:
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2022 at 02:17
….
5. Trying out 43 and 45T rear sprockets.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Oct 2022 at 17:13
Dodgy poor-man’s ABBA stand
Removed link and re-greased bearings/pins….happy to report that they were well greased and the pins were all ok. Managed to only displace 3 of the rollers - what an ‘interesting’ design.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Oct 2022 at 17:28
While the Ape was hanging about I managed to get the suspension measurements - an interesting combination that goes someway to explaining the ‘high at the front/slow turning’ feeling?

I think, first off, that I’ll go for 25 to 30mm front/15mm rear sag then twiddle each way until I get a happy setting.
I go about 78/80kg in my riding gear and generally err on the soft side and assume that the Ape is a fair bit less rear biased than my old 7R?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Oct 2022 at 18:37
Therefore changes to be made:
Front 
preload 1 more ring showing
Fork height 1 more ring showing
Rebound 7/8 turn in
Compression 1/2 turn in

Rear
Preload 9 to 10mm thread showing (odd this as front settings are for a heavier rider?)
Compression 7/8 turn in
Rebound 4 clicks out
Ride height tbd - depending on front feel

Recording this here as I have a nasty habit of losing my notes.

I know suspension is a personal preference but any advice will be welcome.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Oct 2022 at 19:11
Front adjusted (with the exception of the fork height), back adjusted (with the exception of the preload) accordingly…….de-stickered, waiting for gap in rain.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Oct 2022 at 13:06
Tried out new settings - better. Got to find a away of getting a front paddock stand to fit - anyone removed the bottom yoke cover? Then I can raise the forks by one more ring (from 3 to 4 showing) and speed up the turn-in.
Plus modify my rear paddock stand to fit the wider set bobbins.
Plus:
Flapper opened - vacuum tube blocked using a biro plug, nice and cheap. I may be imagining it but, it appears to pick up a tad quicker from low revs.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 426hemi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Oct 2022 at 13:52
You can remove the cover under the yoke but you’ll probably find it’ll run slightly hotter as it’s there to force air through the radiator.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2022 at 19:19
42t rear sprocket ordered.
Now I have to work out why my throttle is sticking - not the sort of thing I wanted to discover when approaching a junction in the the wet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2022 at 18:01
42t rear sprocket fitted. Now I find that I could have got a 43t to fit - doh!

During the fitting of the sprocket I noticed that the shark fin was flapping about - the bottom fitting was missing due to the cotton reels using a long m6 - no thread left to screw it in to.
Shark fin removed with it’s top bracket.

Mystery dead handling solved - both tyre valve cores leak - I’ve never come across this before.
Front tyre was down to 31 psi and the rear was 33. From 35/38 - set and checked a week ago.
Removal of the rear tyre cap produced hissing!

Valve core tool and 4 new valves ordered.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2022 at 18:10
Sticking throttle fixed.
Strangely the top of the cable housing was rubbing on the cam.
Ran 5W oil down the cables, cleaned the throttle housing and lightly greased/oiled it.
It now snaps shut but the oil’s run down the cables and will create a stink when it’s next started.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IanG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2022 at 15:23
Originally posted by Willintolearn Willintolearn wrote:

42t rear sprocket fitted. Now I find that I could have got a 43t to fit - doh!

During the fitting of the sprocket I noticed that the shark fin was flapping about - the bottom fitting was missing due to the cotton reels using a long m6 - no thread left to screw it in to.
Shark fin removed with it’s top bracket.



Source an even longer bolt, I have a longer 'cotton reel' from the Abba Skylift/Front wheel lift kit permanently fitted on both of mine,I also think I have an additional Nyloc nut wheel side for added security.
www.apworkshops.co.uk
www.apriliaforum.co.uk
www.apriliaownersclub.co.uk

Looking forward to the next track day
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2022 at 15:35
Originally posted by IanG IanG wrote:

Originally posted by Willintolearn Willintolearn wrote:

42t rear sprocket fitted. Now I find that I could have got a 43t to fit - doh!

During the fitting of the sprocket I noticed that the shark fin was flapping about - the bottom fitting was missing due to the cotton reels using a long m6 - no thread left to screw it in to.
Shark fin removed with it’s top bracket.



Source an even longer bolt, I have a longer 'cotton reel' from the Abba Skylift/Front wheel lift kit permanently fitted on both of mine,I also think I have an additional Nyloc nut wheel side for added security.

Thanks - going to get longer m6 high tensile bolts and fit a penny washer and nyloc on the inside of sharks fin.
I have R&G cotton reels.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Nov 2022 at 12:27
2 x new tyre valve cores fitted.
Front was loose and had what looked like a bit of tyre rubber sticking out of the inner seal.
Rear one outer seal had flattened and was letting by.
Checked both tyres while it was up on stands - both ok.

Note to self:
Must get a tyre inflator adapter for the compressor - using a foot pump is not good for an old duffer who is now too cream-crackered to go for a ride!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Nov 2022 at 13:35
Shark fin refitted
Found an M6 x 65 kicking about extended the threaded section with a die and used a half nut/spring and plain washer on the back of the fin:


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Nov 2022 at 18:21
Finally got round to eliminating the stator plug in the vee.
Used a draw-through wire and soldered on the stator side then fed it all back though.
Got a pleasant surprise when I lifted the tank too - don’t know which kit it is but applied some rubber grease as it was a bit grubby.





Also swapped the flapper and clutch one-way valves, the clutch one was letting by and the flapper hose is blanked anyway.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Nov 2022 at 20:50
Update:
Airbox upgrade is by AP, bless ‘em
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote badapple Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov 2022 at 00:34
Looking good mate, open airbox was a nice little bonus. Just noticed that you have the original clutch slave  I've got a factory racing one in silver if you are interested makes the lever less heavy Thumbs Up
I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2022 at 16:37
Originally posted by badapple badapple wrote:

Looking good mate, open airbox was a nice little bonus. Just noticed that you have the original clutch slave  I've got a factory racing one in silver if you are interested makes the lever less heavy Thumbs Up

Many thanks for the kind offer but, I am used to a 7R with h/d springs and have a good clutch lever, now that the NRV has been swapped over - I might even try the dual NRV too, to see if it’s a good a mod as it seems.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2022 at 13:09
1 metre length of 12mm 304 stainless steel bar ordered - in place of abba stand - to save me from having to use an Allen key and a wheel nut wrench with my axle stands. Saves about £100, too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2022 at 13:13
Going to have to start replacing rubber things - inlet hoses are looking brittle, as are the vacuum hoses and the clear plastic airbox drain. Good time to try the twin NRV mod. TBC…..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willintolearn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan 2023 at 16:16
Finally got round to doing the double NRV mod.
Just as well as the hose I replaced was crumbling - the worst being the air box drain which had fallen off and was just laying there.






 

Bit of a bodge as I had to get 8mm valves and reducers for 6-8-6 in 4 places.
While I was in there I took the opportunity to clean what’s left of the air box and butterflies….very grubby.
Checked the butterfly screws too, one was none too tight.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote badapple Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan 2023 at 18:05
I've noticed on the few older apes I've had through the workshop recently how much some of the hoses etc have really started to deteriorate but I suppose it is to be expected after 20 years!
I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left
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