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Gen 1 clocks resetting

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Spoonz View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Spoonz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Gen 1 clocks resetting
    Posted: 18 Jan 2014 at 13:31
Here it is. Won't stop the clocks resetting if your batt is flat/fecked however.

What you’ll need:
1000uF 25volt electrolytic capacitor, available Radio Spares/Maplin or similar.
Electronics/hobby type soldering iron, preferably with medium chisel tip. No plumbers blow torches please!!
Electronics resin cored solder.
Electronics cutters and pliers.
Normal bike tools.
Cable/zip ties.

Time to get into it!

BEFORE DOING ANYTHING, remove the seat and remove the two main fuses and disconnect the battery.

Remove the 8 hex screws and remove the windscreen, slide out the dash cover from under the windscreen first.
Undo the cable ties securing the wiring looms to the frame at the back of the dash. I cut mine, but afterwards discovered that they can be undone if you’re careful and have small hands. It’s no big deal to cut them, as normal cable ties do a neat, secure job afterwards.
Slide back the rubber boot over the plug on the back of the dash and remove the plug. There’s a securing catch middle top of the plug which needs to be pressed down as you remove the plug. Don’t pull on the wires!!
Undo the three 10mm nuts securing the dash to the frame, two on top and one middle bottom. The bottom one is a bit fiddly, especially getting it back on during reassembly.

You’ve now got the dash in your hot little hands! Place it face down on a cotton towel on your work bench and remove the 8 or so small screws securing the back. Remove the back being careful not to break the rubber gasket, it may be stuck. Identify from the photos where the capacitor has to go. Also, avoid unnecessary touching/handling the printed board as there’s static sensitive components on it.
Identify the positive and negative leads of the capacitor and bend and trim the leads as shown in the photos. The negative lead is marked up the side of the capacitor. There’s a protrusion on the back cover that could interfere when you come to put on the cover, so take into account in your bending, trimming, positioning of the capacitor.
The aim is to have the capacitor lying on the board with the leads sitting nicely on the pads so there is no strain on the leads after soldering. If all is OK, solder the capacitor in position, ensuring good heat transfer but avoiding overheating the components or board. Your soldered joints should be shinny and smooth. If they’re dull and crystalline looking, it’s probably a dry joint. The connection may have moved before the solder set or there’s been insufficient heat transfer.
If all is good, run a bit of silicon sealant along the sides of the capacitor to secure it to the board. Well, that’s it. Put the back of the dash on paying attention that the rubber gasket stays over the little plastic locating pins all the way ’round.

From here, as they say in the workshop manuals, assembly is the reversal of disassembly. Nothing really tricky to watch for that I can remember.
Connect up the battery terminals first. While you’re at it, put a spring/wave/star washer under each terminal screw, it helps to maintain a nice tight connection. Put in the two main fuses and if all is well, the dash will go through it’s default reset caper.

Reset everything to your preferred settings and that should be the last time you have to do it hopefully !!
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apriliano View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote apriliano Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2014 at 10:35
Thanks for this, Spoonz. I performed this mod yesterday but haven't had a chance to test it in anger as the bike is in about 100 million pieces in my garage. The clocks certainly do power up in the normal way. I will note that the capacitor I got from Maplin was thinner and longer in shape but still fit comfortably in place.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pope227 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug 2014 at 12:40
Hi , I want to do this to stop the clocks resetting, I would just like confirmation on the voltage of the capacitor - 25 volt seems high, just wanted to make sure that there's not a decimal point missing or any daft!!?
 I'm sure its right, and have bought one to today thought i would double check!
Has anyone else done this?
Spoonz, Is this mod still working well for you?
 
John
It's Italian engineering - its meant to do that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Spoonz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug 2014 at 13:04
Originally posted by pope227 pope227 wrote:

Hi , I want to do this to stop the clocks resetting, I would just like confirmation on the voltage of the capacitor - 25 volt seems high, just wanted to make sure that there's not a decimal point missing or any daft!!?
 I'm sure its right, and have bought one to today thought i would double check!
Has anyone else done this?
Spoonz, Is this mod still working well for you?
 
John

I have not owned a Gen 1 since 2004 so can't comment on it working long term but it did at the time.

Re the cap, 25v is the max working voltage not what is required to charge it. Electrolytics work for anything up to there max value. If you want to put a lower spec cap in that is fine as long as it can handle at least 15v but other than physical size it makes no difference.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nikfubar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug 2014 at 13:18
Sorry if I'm being thick but what's this mod for Embarrassed I thought the only time the clocks ever reset is when you try to start it with a flat battery.

Oops
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Spoonz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug 2014 at 17:10

Originally posted by nikfubar nikfubar wrote:

Sorry if I'm being thick but what's this mod for Embarrassed I thought the only time the clocks ever reset is when you try to start it with a flat battery.

A lot of gen1 clocks (with green backlighting) reset the time and trip etc even with a fully charged batt. This mod holds a temporary 12v charge via the capacitor to keep 12v in the clocks even when cranking. When it cranks easily drop well below even on a full charge.

The gen2 version of the gen1 clocks (with orange backlight) have a cap from the factory.

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pope227 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pope227 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug 2014 at 18:06
My 2002 with orange clocks still does this. Do you think any harm can be done by fitting the cap? Clocks look identical to your photos. The capacitor is in effect wired parallel so should still work ( or at least do no harm)
John
It's Italian engineering - its meant to do that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pope227 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Sep 2014 at 19:27
Bloody thing resets now after every turn off even after Being on optimate and rev needle fluctuates on turning on too. Any ideas anyone. Very careful with the soldering etc. so should be ok. Going to. Strip again and check for perm live at the plug. Can anyone help with with pin/ wire should perm. Live to the dash? This is the only thing I think it can be unless I have fried the clocks. Any advice would be good.
Before the clocks only rest if left for a day or two once charged/ running it was fine.
It's Italian engineering - its meant to do that.
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