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Fuel tank removal

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Rich Simpson View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rich Simpson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Fuel tank removal
    Posted: 17 May 2020 at 19:57
I have obtained a set of upgraded battery leads from AP Workshops...I thought they were a bit overpriced until I saw them in the flesh. Anyway, fitting them entails removing the fuel tank, which I've sorta done., but it is still attached to the bike. 
The fuel return line has a QR drybreak coupling, which is nice, but the armoured pressure feed line doesn't.
Is there a right way or a wrong way to remove/detach this line, as I'd like to get the tank off the bike completely, and take a peak at the air-filter etc? 
Ideally I'd like to be able to do it without soaking everything with petrol.

Cheers


Richard


NB thanks to AP for turning my order around so quickly and efficiently in these difficult times.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wigginsjp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2020 at 20:17
Hello 

Do you need to remove the tank to fit them? Not heard that before but then I don’t have them.

You ideally want to drain it first. Use a suction pump off Amazon. Draper do a good one for a tenner I use on race bikes to check how much fuel I’m using. 

Then disconnect that main hose at the throttle bodies is the best way 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stevex Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2020 at 20:32
I empty the tank and disconnect from throttle bodies too.
When refitting the banjo, use new copper washers and torque to 20NM.
People say I don't know Jack Sh1t; but I do, he lives next door.
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Rich Simpson View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rich Simpson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2020 at 20:58
Cheers both.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 426hemi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2020 at 21:20
It’s best to use aluminium washers on the fuel lines.
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Rich Simpson View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rich Simpson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2020 at 21:36
Thanks Hemi...

It looks like copper on mine...is there an advantage or safety reason for using ali, and do you have the dimensions?

I was thinking of annealing the existing washers.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 426hemi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2020 at 22:04
Not sure on the size as it’s been years since I’ve had to change mine but Petrol is incredibly searching and can leak past copper, copper is ok with hydraulic systems but not petrol.
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Rich Simpson View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rich Simpson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2020 at 22:34
Makes sense, thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Pete 86 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 May 2020 at 18:24
17 or 19mm spanner at the tank side.  It will leak constantly if you dont drain the tank or stand it up with something soft under it.  
When you put it back on make sure you mount the banjo the right way not 
180' out or you will twist/crimp the braded hose.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote constant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 May 2020 at 03:20
rich what gen is the bike mine is gen 1 you should not need to take the tank off just the side fairing for the starter motor lead 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rich Simpson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 May 2020 at 08:51
Hi,

Mine's Gen 1 too. Step one in the instructions is to remove fuel tank and side panels, so I did!

I've unbolted the tank, disconnected the return line and the other pipes and wires, and the job does seem to be a bit easier if it is lifted. 

I was hoping to disconnect it entirely to make access to the air filter easier. I just wanted to take a peek at the filter to see if it needed replacing while I was there.

The leads job is 90 per cent done now, including the soldering. I've just got to rummage around to connect the earth leads onto the frame.

I fitted the long lead to the starter motor by taking the large side panel off the fairing, unbolting the existing lead, bolting the new lead to the old one with a short bolt and nut, and pulling from the battery end.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rich Simpson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 May 2020 at 22:06
In the end I put a hook in a rafter in the garage roof, and carefully hung the tank above the bike without splitting the line.
the air filter needs changing...so will order one tomorrow.
back brake is binding...new seals and pistons needed.
oil change will happen too.
Not had to dig into it so deep before, but it seems reassuringly well designed.
Found out that the engine was designed by the very same guy who designed the engine of the KTM 950 Adv...and there's one of those next to the Mille in the garage.
Mechanically quite similar...but a world apart in form and function.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote FTM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2020 at 05:56
There should be a steel rod underneath the left hand side of the seat/tail unit that is used to prop up the fuel tank. No need to hang it from the ceiling.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote legend88 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2020 at 09:54
I might have a spar K&N air filter for a Gen 1 depending on the model year? I will send you a PM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stevex Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2020 at 12:39
Originally posted by 426hemi 426hemi wrote:

It’s best to use aluminium washers on the fuel lines.

Hemi's right, I'm getting my washers mixed up, sorry.
Aluminium washers are softer than copper and that's what Aprilia use as oem.
Also torque is 22NM, not 20NM as I stated previously...I'll get my coat Wink

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rich Simpson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2020 at 18:40
Originally posted by FTM FTM wrote:

There should be a steel rod underneath the left hand side of the seat/tail unit that is used to prop up the fuel tank. No need to hang it from the ceiling.

Had a look, but couldn't see it on mine!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rich Simpson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2020 at 18:41
Originally posted by legend88 legend88 wrote:

I might have a spar K&N air filter for a Gen 1 depending on the model year? I will send you a PM

Thanks for that, but I already ordered a paper one?

Are the K&Ns any good...I hear mixed reports.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stevex Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2020 at 19:05
I junked my k&n for an oem air filter. Just wasnt convinced of their filtering properties. Besides, would Aprilia use a filter that wasnt up to the job, even up to the red line, filtering and air flow wise? I think you'd need a ridiculously modded engine before even cotemplating exceeding the flow properties of the paper element.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rich Simpson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2020 at 20:18
The OEM filter size seems quite generous to me, as, frankly does the engine performance with the Aprilia Racing titanium single-outlet can. It's quite fast enough for me as is!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote camngetit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2020 at 23:27
The thing with filters is an oem one will flow the same as say a k&n when new and clean but ince the oem filter starts to get dirty it flows less where as the k&n flows the better for longer just depends on how long you keep the bike and how many oem filters you get for the price of a k&n (other aftetmarket filters are available ) 
its twins for me !!!!
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Rich Simpson View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rich Simpson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2020 at 12:20
TBH I don't think my bike will do enough miles for that to be a problem.

A genuine air filter is under £14 from AP...In contrast a genuine air filter for my KTM 950 Adv is £37!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote snowman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2020 at 14:34
I put a K&N in mine, don’t think I noticed any difference but there it’s still in it , wouldn’t bother next time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote snowman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2020 at 14:45
To add to above , while tank is up I would recommend a QA throttle , keep you from grabbing 2 handfuls, 
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