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FR200 basic "get started" setting

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greenman1966 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote greenman1966 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: FR200 basic "get started" setting
    Posted: 07 May 2018 at 21:55
Hi,
I've put my FR200 chip back in and I've forgotton what the default basic setting for the bleed screws are:
I know that the trimpots should be at 12 o'clock.
Can someone re-inform me please.
I'm running on map 1. modified collector, standard airbox with large airboot.
 
thanks
Dennis
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Spoonz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2018 at 22:24
The trim pots take precedent over the air screws so once set from the factory they are generally left alone. If you alter the bleed screws the trim pots will need to be altered to compensate.

Trim pots at 12 o'clock is a stop you running the bike at a widely out setting until you get it checked really. It's unlikely to be accurate as no 2 bikes are the same.
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redratbike View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote redratbike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2018 at 11:57
By-passes screws at 1.5 front and 3/4 rear (or similar, just keep more or less the same proportions)
set both CO trimmers at 12 o' clock
or

. Try 1 &1/4 turns out for front screw and between 3/4 and 1 turn out for rear. put it to those and then see how it idles.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote redratbike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2018 at 11:59
play around those settings to get the best idle 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Spoonz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2018 at 13:03
Make sure you set your idle to 1250 before adjusting anything as more or less will alter the settings and adjust with the temp below 80 deg or the ecu will richen the mixture. That's assuming whoever set the generic values had theirs set at 1250 etc when they and set theirs up.
Get it checked though or your wasting some of the benefit if it's out. My bike has a similar setup to you apart from the air box and setup on a co meter neither trimmer is at 12, not even close on the rear cylinder. A tiny amount of movement makes quite a difference to the CO value.

As a side note it's almost impossible to get correct idle, balanced vac and correct CO, partly because the the rear cylinder generally wants to run a bit richer. If you correct the idle or co the vac drifts out and vice versa. Hence why Aprilia say the CO should take precedent as it's the most critical value. So most dealers leave the vac screws unless they suspect tampering or rebuilding/replacing the bodies or it's an early eeprom with the trimmers deactivated.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote greenman1966 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2018 at 06:20
Ok,
after much issues I put the original chip back in so that I could start again from a known "good" place. I then got it going and left a few days to sort my brain.
I got back into it today I checked the zero position of the tps in diagnostics mode. and it reading -1 when closed on the 'factory' idle stop. so there is my problem. Tomorrow I'll reset the TPS idle position to 0  and start again.
just to let you know this issues I had, with the FR200 chip I had to wind the bleedscrews all the way out to idle, the further out I wound them the better it ran, but then the idle rpm was so high that the idle speed screw couldn't bring it back down below 1500. and this was with the pots at 12 oclock.
With the standard chip, I had some control over the idle speed. and it did actually run ok and was nice and snappy on the throttle.

So, tomorrow I try again.

thanks for all your replies 

Dennis. 
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