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Flipping AP rearsets to get knees in tank

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blacklines View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote blacklines Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan 2018 at 22:30
Ah thanks for that. Yeah, I'm not sure what the purpose is for the nut anyway.

Looks like you went down another position on the rearsets than I have initially set mine. That might give me a little more room at the master cylinder. I might also see if I can open the caliper bleed valve and push the piston back a bit for some more travel too.

I saw your links to Jolly's Carbon at about the same time I saw the abundance of carbon in your photo ha. Although I'm not that fussed about carbon fibre I can appreciate the work looks top notch. Impressive it's all come out of your garage too.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote damo46 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan 2018 at 23:04
Originally posted by blacklines blacklines wrote:

Originally posted by damo46 damo46 wrote:


Thats interesting in relation to the Harris rearsets, I have those on my gen1 tuono, I measured them as best I could against the standard pegs and based on my "maybe not 100% accurate" measurements the Harris pegs in there lowest position were only about 15mm lower than the standard. I have often been thinking of upgrading to an AP set of rearsets but not sure would it be much more of a gain.


I started playing with the rearsets last night after the MOT was out the way and I'd just finished rigging up LED lighting in my garage from my old bike battery.

There looks to be a huge amount of adjustment on the AP rearsets. I don't know what the standard peg height is but there is an inch of adjustment in height on the plate. Flipping them gives even more. Upside down, the highest setting is an inch lower than the lowest setting right way up.

With the back end on a paddock stand, the range in height is 15" to 16", then 17" to 18" off the ground. So a range of 3" although there's an inch in the middle you can't set it to.

The range is great but as I expected, the fairing is starting to be the issue now. I'll have more of a play with it and report back.


Nice one, thanks for the info
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote legend88 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan 2018 at 11:51
Originally posted by blacklines blacklines wrote:

Ah thanks for that. Yeah, I'm not sure what the purpose is for the nut anyway.

Looks like you went down another position on the rearsets than I have initially set mine. That might give me a little more room at the master cylinder. I might also see if I can open the caliper bleed valve and push the piston back a bit for some more travel too.

I saw your links to Jolly's Carbon at about the same time I saw the abundance of carbon in your photo ha. Although I'm not that fussed about carbon fibre I can appreciate the work looks top notch. Impressive it's all come out of your garage too.


The nut is to lock off the adjustment once you set the free play. If not, the rod can turn in the rod end (It's not fixed at the other end) and you could end up with no free play and the disastrous consequences that can entail.

Pushing the pistons in the caliper back won't do anything because as soon as you apply the brake they will be back where they want to be. You need to set the travel / free play when everything is in it's normal operating position

By the way, sorry for lack of photo that I promised. Not got one on the computer and just not had the chance to get in the garage. I will though.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote blacklines Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan 2018 at 12:37
Originally posted by legend88 legend88 wrote:


The nut is to lock off the adjustment once you set the free play. If not, the rod can turn in the rod end (It's not fixed at the other end) and you could end up with no free play and the disastrous consequences that can entail.


Ah the rod can screw in and out of the the eye thing that connects to the brake pedal lever?

So the nut locks the exposed rod length? That would make more sense than using it to press against the underneath of the master cylinder and limit the amount the rod can push inside the master cylinder.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote legend88 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan 2018 at 12:53
Yep, exactly, It only adjust the free play, not the travel of the piston in the master cylinder.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote blacklines Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan 2018 at 13:22
Great, thanks. I never would have known because mine is seized up. I'll give it another drench in WD40 and have a go at loosening the rod from the eye tonight.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote blacklines Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jan 2018 at 14:52
That bolt wasn't going anywhere, fully seized and slightly bent too. I cut off about 20mm to get it to where I needed it. But now I was able to get it all back together.



The other day I cleaned and bled all brake calipers which took the rear brake from being useless to powerful enough for skids. Glad to say the rear brake still feels good and releases nicely too.

I haven't stuck the brake lever stopper back on. Partly because I'd need to source another bolt to fit the different sized thread, partly because it isn't needed anymore. There isn't enough clearance at the push rod end to allow the push rod to fall out of the master cylinder.



Haven't had chance to ride it yet but sitting on it feels like there is much more room between my knees and my tank. I'll lose some of that in leathers and boots but the extra inch should help a lot. Clearance wise the pegs would hit around the same time as the stock exhaust. So well beyond my abilities. Or even the abilities of the Michelin Pilot Road 3s it's on.

Hopefully get out next weekend if the roads aren't briney.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote blacklines Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jan 2018 at 18:14
Went for a quick 40 odd mile lap earlier today. To start with I noticed my right heel hitting the stock exhaust a bit more than before. It also took a mile or two to get used to the feeling of the swingarm moving between my ankles. I'm sure I didn't used to feel that.

But after a couple of miles I didn't notice either and the bike felt much better with some more room around my knees. Round bends my outside leg felt much more comfortable. Like I could rest my weight more between my thigh and the side of the bike than my knee and the pointy edgy of the tank.

Next thing I plan to do is raise the ride height at the back and lower the forks another ring in preparation for my first track day at Cadwell in April. Might also change the fork oil before then.

Thanks for your help JollyGiant and legend88. Seems to have done the trick and rides much better now.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jollygiant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jan 2018 at 18:17
No probs, at least it was easier for you I had to sort it all out myself!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote blacklines Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 May 2018 at 19:01
Sorry to dredge this back up but I noticed something when I had the shock out this weekend. The nut holding the rear brake fluid reservoir had been scratching the swing arm. Enough to leave a bit of a gouge. Probably could have worn all the way through given enough time.

I 'fixed' it by replacing the nut with a cable tie which provides the little support the fluid reservoir needs. Something to watch out for when flipping your rearsets.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote markrsvr15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2018 at 06:08
could you not change it for a pipe
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote blacklines Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2018 at 08:39
Yeah that would work. Or I could do what legend88 did and swap the master cylinder for one from an RSV4 which has an integral reservoir. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote legend88 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2018 at 09:08
Originally posted by blacklines blacklines wrote:

Yeah that would work. Or I could do what legend88 did and swap the master cylinder for one from an RSV4 which has an integral reservoir. 


Don't use the plastic tube. They look like what they are - a bodge Disapprove  - and from general wisdom are seriously prone to leaking fluid. It's amazing how gullible and easily led people are just because they are marketed as HRC! They may save some weight on a race bike but have no place on the road.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IanG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2018 at 10:07
LOL   I thought I'd leave that for someone else to say Wink


Why not keep the original res,spin it round 180o and mount it direct rather than use that little link?



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote blacklines Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2018 at 11:30
Good thinking Ian but I don't think that'll work in this case. It's maybe not clear from the picture but the scratching was from the nut that held the link to the heel plate, rather than the nut that held the reservoir to the link. A flat allen head bolt may give enough clearance if I were to put the link back on..

I think long term the RSV4 master with integral reservoir is the nicest solution. Maybe frivolous but I'm starting to think I'll spend most my biking career with this bike, or another RSV. Enough power to not be an excuse for slow lap times, good spacious fit and plenty about at bargain prices.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote markrsvr15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2018 at 17:16
I don't think you have much experience mate about track how much weight would you save about 50grams.
I know loads of people that just use a pipe on rd and track.

And flipping your rear sets isn't a bodgeWink.

If you fit them right there spot on. Wasn't that long ago on here that's what people was using with ap rear sets.

Personally the standard set up is better any way
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