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efi warning and won't start!

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badapple View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote badapple Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb 2016 at 09:35
Originally posted by Spoonz Spoonz wrote:

Originally posted by badapple badapple wrote:

Thanks for the quick reply spoonz, I'm not sure how to check the connection. Where are the wires? Is it fairing off job? I'm probably going to have to change the oil aswell I assume would that be the knocking noise? What is the cost of a new stator and is it a griff job. He is coming to mine in two weeks to sort my new one out but not sure if he will have the time to fix this one aswell. I think I'll call him later and see what he says. Really do without this someone called this morning to view it ,, obobviously had to cancel that.

 
Assuming the wiring has not been modded there should be 3 yellow wires running between the cylinders from left side to right with a brown connector on the right side. Measure there, in pairs (1,2 -1,3 -2,3) on Ac volts. One pair will usually be significantly different. 

If the brown connector is melted etc obviously bypass that first as it may be the problem.  Clutch chatter is probably just normal for a cold bike and not helped if the oil is black and horrid.
 
Changing the stator is not a big deal and I'm sure Griff can do it if you warn him in advance. Chances are it was failing long before you put the bike away. Once the stator develops a hot spot it's only a matter of time. 
 

Hi spoonz, I've got hold of a meter and wrestled the fairing off after the wellnut decided to not come out. Do I need the engine on to test? If so what revs? The connector looks fine no damage or melting. If I get a difference between the wires does that mean a new stator and is there anything else to check whilst I'm at it? Sorry for the novice questions.
I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Spoonz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb 2016 at 11:04
Yes engine running and measure the pairs on AC volts. officially the test is at 4k rpm but if one winding is down the voltage will likely be significantly different on one pair at any revs.
 
It should be about 50-60v ish ac on each pair.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote badapple Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb 2016 at 14:22
Brilliant thanks ill post the results tomorrow once I'm free to get out to the garage and check.
I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote albrown001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb 2016 at 21:13
I didn't hear any noises from my stator when it went faulty. When the battery went flat and then went flat again. I put a new one in. When that went flat I took the flywheel cover off. Its easy to do and doesn't take long to check if the stator is ok. You can stick the meter probes down the side of the brown connector and see if you got any juice coming out of the stator. But I just figured that it was the stator after the new battery went flat.

Any road, when I got the cover off my stator was toast. The stator had melted and the flywheel was full of burnt lacker. I had to clean it out with petrol. I also flushed the engine through with new oil and a new filter after I fitted the new stator. 

I just rewound mine with less turns and thicker wire so it produced around 370w then put the compfire on there


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote albrown001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb 2016 at 01:01
If it is faulty you can do it yourself. A small torque wrench is handy but you can get away without one. When you take the crankcase flywheel cover off the stator is fastened to it. It just pulls out of the flywheel which is fastened on the end of the crankshaft. You will need a new gasket to put it back together although when I did mine I used the old one as I actually knackered the old one when I was putting it back together. May as well do an oil and filter change while you are at it. You will need some blue locktite thread lock. If you are not sure Griff will sort it out for you and you know its done right. While he has got the bike you could take the flywheel weight off if you wanted to. Livens up the bike a bit but I think makes it ever so slightly more vibey. I prefer the bike with the flywheel weight removed, I think its got that more raw feel to the bike with it off. Again you can do this yourself as well, but its a little more complicated as you have to pop off the flywheel. But I managed to do it with a big bolt.  You will need some locktite 648 and some nuts and bolts to do this. But again, Griff would sort this out for you. 

Any road, hopefully its not your stator at all and just something else
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote markrsvr15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb 2016 at 06:49
Originally posted by albrown001 albrown001 wrote:

I didn't hear any noises from my stator when it went faulty. When the battery went flat and then went flat again. I put a new one in. When that went flat I took the flywheel cover off. Its easy to do and doesn't take long to check if the stator is ok. You can stick the meter probes down the side of the brown connector and see if you got any juice coming out of the stator. But I just figured that it was the stator after the new battery went flat.

Any road, when I got the cover off my stator was toast. The stator had melted and the flywheel was full of burnt lacker. I had to clean it out with petrol. I also flushed the engine through with new oil and a new filter after I fitted the new stator. 

I just rewound mine with less turns and thicker wire so it produced around 370w then put the compfire on there







This only a gen 2 issue because of the brown connector
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote badapple Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb 2016 at 06:26
Originally posted by albrown001 albrown001 wrote:

If it is faulty you can do it yourself. A small torque wrench is handy but you can get away without one. When you take the crankcase flywheel cover off the stator is fastened to it. It just pulls out of the flywheel which is fastened on the end of the crankshaft. You will need a new gasket to put it back together although when I did mine I used the old one as I actually knackered the old one when I was putting it back together. May as well do an oil and filter change while you are at it. You will need some blue locktite thread lock. If you are not sure Griff will sort it out for you and you know its done right. While he has got the bike you could take the flywheel weight off if you wanted to. Livens up the bike a bit but I think makes it ever so slightly more vibey. I prefer the bike with the flywheel weight removed, I think its got that more raw feel to the bike with it off. Again you can do this yourself as well, but its a little more complicated as you have to pop off the flywheel. But I managed to do it with a big bolt.  You will need some locktite 648 and some nuts and bolts to do this. But again, Griff would sort this out for you. 

Any road, hopefully its not your stator at all and just something else
good info there mate thank you, griff and co are here Thursday so if he has time at the end after sorting all the other bikes out I'm going to ask him to have a quick look and I'll decide what to do from there. Btw your stand has come in handy already had the wheels out for new tyres and a good clean
I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote badapple Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb 2016 at 06:30
Originally posted by markrsvr15 markrsvr15 wrote:

Originally posted by albrown001 albrown001 wrote:

I didn't hear any noises from my stator when it went faulty. When the battery went flat and then went flat again. I put a new one in. When that went flat I took there flywheel cover off. Its easy to do and doesn't take long to check if the stator is ok. You can stick the meter probes down the side of the brown connector and see if you got any juice coming out of the stator. But I just figured that it was the stator after the new battery went flat.

Any road, when I got the cover off my stator was toast. The stator had melted and the flywheel was full of burnt lacker. I had to clean it out with petrol. I also flushed the engine through with new oil and a new filter after I fitted the new stator. 

I just rewound mine with less turns and thicker wire so it produced around 370w then put the compfire on there







This only a gen 2 issue because of the brown connector
I think so
I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote badapple Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar 2016 at 13:44
An update to help anyone with a similar problem. Had lewis check out my bike whilst they were here for a service day yesterday and it was indeed a knackered stator. The rough knocking sound was the clutch which was also knackered. In the end I decided to sell it to Griff as it was for him to fix and do whatever he decides to do with it. Was gutted to sell as a non-runner but he done me a favour really by taking it as she was and I hope someone enjoys it as much as I did in the years I owned it and I can enjoy my factory without the hassle of worrying about fixing the old bike. Big up AP
I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left
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