rsvr.net Forums Homepage
Forum Home Forum Home > RSV / RSVR / FACTORY > Technical Chat
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - Brake light not working - Gen 2
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

Brake light not working - Gen 2

 Post Reply Post Reply
Author
Message
Dcx View Drop Down
L Plates
L Plates


Joined: 04 Jul 2020
Location: Newark
Status: Offline
Points: 5
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dcx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Brake light not working - Gen 2
    Posted: 04 Jul 2020 at 10:02
This is my 1st post (after lurking for a while).

My brake light isn't working on my '05 RSV R gen 2, neither front lever nor rear pedal get it to function, I have checked the 5A fuse & that's ok (changed just in case). 
I have disconnected the upper connector just before the brake light (in the tail unit) and got a reading of 14v between the yellow & blue wires with the brakes off? I assumed this would mean the brake light would be permanently on (unless it was permanently on & has blown the light because of this)?
     
Any advice would be appreciated.

Dave
Back to Top
Spoonz View Drop Down
Admins Group
Admins Group


Joined: 11 Feb 2008
Location: North Devon
Status: Offline
Points: 10131
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Spoonz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jul 2020 at 11:38
Which yellow wire ? There should be a yellow and green and yellow and gray to the tail light assy. ?
Back to Top
Dcx View Drop Down
L Plates
L Plates


Joined: 04 Jul 2020
Location: Newark
Status: Offline
Points: 5
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dcx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jul 2020 at 13:21
Sorry yes it is the 3 way connector but colours are yellow/green - earth, yellow into connector / grey out & blue in & out.  
Back to Top
Spoonz View Drop Down
Admins Group
Admins Group


Joined: 11 Feb 2008
Location: North Devon
Status: Offline
Points: 10131
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Spoonz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jul 2020 at 15:29
Blue is the earth and yellow/green is your brake light feed. If those 2 have 12v across them your brake light has failed or there is break beyond the connector. 
Back to Top
Dcx View Drop Down
L Plates
L Plates


Joined: 04 Jul 2020
Location: Newark
Status: Offline
Points: 5
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dcx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jul 2020 at 19:54
Hi Spoonz
I can't easily get to the terminals in the light to check for broke wires.   
With the ignition on I'm getting the following:-
Yellow/Grey to Yellow/Green open circuit 0v
Yellow/Grey to Blue 11.3v
Yellow/Green to Blue 11.3v 
but holding in/pressing the brake lever/pedal doesn't make any difference?

With the ignition ON all wire show continuity to earth / frame?
With the ignition OFF Yellow/Green doesn't show continuity to the frame but Yellow/Grey & Blue still show continuity.

Again any help would be appreciated.
Dave
Back to Top
Spoonz View Drop Down
Admins Group
Admins Group


Joined: 11 Feb 2008
Location: North Devon
Status: Offline
Points: 10131
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Spoonz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jul 2020 at 20:19
You must have a stuck on brake switch but your brake light is duff also. A reading to ground depends on the range you have the meter on and what your measuring.  If the range is high enough virtually everything has a reading to ground. 

In the instance of the rear light your reading across diodes Which is a semiconductor so depending on the polarity of your probes they will read low to ground one way and higher the other. Readings to ground are only a problem if it shows a dead short or close too. 
Back to Top
Dcx View Drop Down
L Plates
L Plates


Joined: 04 Jul 2020
Location: Newark
Status: Offline
Points: 5
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dcx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jul 2020 at 21:58
Ok thanks
I did wonder if an always on switch could blow the light 

Spoonz
I'm using the buzzer on the multi meter to check continuity from the 3 way connector to the frame, with the fly lead to the rear light disconnected.

I'm not to sure what resistance range I should be using to check the light but I'm not getting 'buzzer' continuity between any combination of the 3 terminals (by comparison when checking the rear position light I'm am getting buzzer continuity between those 2 terminals).

Looks like it's one of switches.
Thanks Dave

 
Back to Top
Spoonz View Drop Down
Admins Group
Admins Group


Joined: 11 Feb 2008
Location: North Devon
Status: Offline
Points: 10131
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Spoonz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jul 2020 at 23:16
A meter buzzer just checks for conductivity which is not Ideal for troubleshooting in circuit etc. It can take a fairly high resistance for it to consider a reading as non conductive so in the case of the rear light connector your probably reading across the front lights to ground which share the same feed.  

The buzzer or diode checker as it’s generally called is really for reading out of circuit items so it doesn’t detect conductivity across other in circuit items. 
Back to Top
Rich Simpson View Drop Down
Moto2 racer
Moto2 racer
Avatar

Joined: 02 Apr 2019
Location: Cornwall
Status: Offline
Points: 141
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rich Simpson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jul 2020 at 12:10
I'm a simpleton when it comes to electrics, so I keep it simple.

Get a long piece of wire. Run it direct from the + terminal on the battery to as close as you can get to the lamps on the live feed to the spotlights.

If the lights don't come on, then you know the problem is in the rear lamp housing (which it probably is). Take it to bits, clean it, and see if that works.

If they do come on, then the problem is somewhere else. So I'd next try in turn connecting the wire to the live feed to each of the stoplamp switches. If that doesn't isolate the problem, then work your way 'up' the feeds until you find it (ie the lamps don't work).

Multimeters are mostly just confusing. Watts an amp?
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.03
Copyright ©2001-2019 Web Wiz Ltd.

This page was generated in 0.125 seconds.