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2troke View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 2troke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb 2012 at 09:41
I got a Motobatt Mtbx12u it is Absorbent Glass Mat technology which apperaently gives it higher CCA around 200+ and stays charged up longer £35 from Busters!!
Been no hesitation starting and no clock resets since!!
IF IT AIN'T BROKE MOD IT ANYWAY!!!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote snowman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar 2012 at 20:13
Std batt on mine but is always "on optimate 4" while in garage . 955i Sp/Ttiple is on 1 as well as they are hard on batts too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote apriliano Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Nov 2013 at 00:45
If the bike is in regular use, like every day or every other day, is this enough use to keep a good battery 100% charged?

I have a Dynavolt that was fitted by the seller 6 months ago when I bought the bike and it's let me down once already. I'm now keeping it on a charger at the moment (it won't switch over to trickle mode which tells me the battery's the culprit) and you can hear the extra eagerness on start-up. I'm going to upgrade to a YTX14BS for a start and in the New Year I might replace/ upgrade the reg/ rec as a precaution. I'm just wondering how much of the blame can be laid on a suspect battery alone.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IanG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Nov 2013 at 16:27
Mine would go around two weeks without being started before the battery showed signs of stress,have you got an alarm fitted?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nikfubar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Nov 2013 at 17:30
Originally posted by 2troke 2troke wrote:

I got a Motobatt Mtbx12u it is Absorbent Glass Mat technology which apperaently gives it higher CCA around 200+ and stays charged up longer £35 from Busters!!
Been no hesitation starting and no clock resets since!!

+1 this is my 3rd battery in 8 years & these are definitely the best, got a datatool alarm fitted, done all the wiring upgrade mods, 150A solenoid & I stick it on the Optimate once a week & no starting problems Wink

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bigbrownepaul Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Nov 2013 at 19:09
my experience is that you need to give the whole electrical system as clean and lube ie acf50 in all the connectors if they are ok then it gives the 200cca battery a chance!
No bike 🙈

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odermate View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote odermate Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 2013 at 21:35
All wiring mods done and always on optimate, I'll unclip the headlights to start in cold weather just to ensure getting maximum juice to the starter. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote joe 90 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 2013 at 22:11
The thing to do is in the winter months when you use it very little is to remove the 2 x30 amp fuses under the seat.

 The immobiliser robs juice from the battery , also the edu continues to rob the battery as well 

Buy yourself a multi meter and keep the battery charged up to at least 12.85 volts to save your sprag , check for volts with your multi meter before you start it each time during winter , charge it if it falls below 12.85v.


You will find the battery will keep its charge longer when you remove those 30 amp fuses .  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boxer bloke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Feb 2014 at 19:06
Originally posted by jay g jay g wrote:

Had a few problems getting the new 14amp gel to charge.All o.k now{i hope}and have fitted it onto bike and she burst's into life instantly now Managed to get a taller battery clamp and it fits well,as it should. So if you want one, here is the correct part number...8138597 Thanks to everyone,i think we have sorted this battery thing out now[^]


 
Guys is the taller clamp applicable to the gen2 bikes aswell?
Cheers
Jim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Spoonz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Feb 2014 at 19:18
The Gen2 had a higher rated batt than the Gen1 rsvr from the factory so it was designed to accommodate a taller version. From memory the Gen1 rsvr was a 10 ah and Gen2 was 12 ah. Hence I don't think there is a clamp issue on the Gen2 for most batts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boxer bloke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Feb 2014 at 19:29
Ok, thx Spoonz.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kamm Matt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Dec 2014 at 12:49
change my old shrink batt from my 04 factory..

buy a new batt still use the same size... n get an a extra supplement for him.. Big smile


http://mibc.proboards.com/
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote damo46 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Dec 2014 at 17:37
Just to mention lads from my own experience, I have a gen 1 tuono with ytx14bs battery, higher rated starter relay,removed brown connector...etc etc. All these things made a big difference, and funny enough the brown connector was fine but I removed it anyway for better connectors, previous owner used an optimate from day one when he bought the bike new. Even after all this the bike would sometimes turn over lazy when starting even when I was out on a ride for a few hours like the battery was on the way out, one day came home, turned bike off, went to start 10 minutes later to park up and no swing what so ever, the connection at the end of the lead going onto the starter had completely corroded off, you could tell by looking at it that it seemed to have been burned like it was a loose connection. Got the local bike shop to solder on a decent connector back on to the lead, bike swung over faster than it ever did since I got it after doing this, don't know how the f**k it stayed starting for as long as it did,the original connector is a light thin one. So even though the higher rated battery's and all that are worth doing don't forget to check this, cos if that connection is corroded and needs to be replaced it don't matter what battery is in it if there is a sh*t connection going onto the starter. 
Road Racing Ireland, Do It Between The Hedges
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Kamm Matt View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kamm Matt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Dec 2014 at 19:28
Originally posted by damo46 damo46 wrote:

Just to mention lads from my own experience, I have a gen 1 tuono with ytx14bs battery, higher rated starter relay,removed brown connector...etc etc. All these things made a big difference, and funny enough the brown connector was fine but I removed it anyway for better connectors, previous owner used an optimate from day one when he bought the bike new. Even after all this the bike would sometimes turn over lazy when starting even when I was out on a ride for a few hours like the battery was on the way out, one day came home, turned bike off, went to start 10 minutes later to park up and no swing what so ever, the connection at the end of the lead going onto the starter had completely corroded off, you could tell by looking at it that it seemed to have been burned like it was a loose connection. Got the local bike shop to solder on a decent connector back on to the lead, bike swung over faster than it ever did since I got it after doing this, don't know how the f**k it stayed starting for as long as it did,the original connector is a light thin one. So even though the higher rated battery's and all that are worth doing don't forget to check this, cos if that connection is corroded and needs to be replaced it don't matter what battery is in it if there is a sh*t connection going onto the starter. 

WOW..!!! this is new info and very valuable info mate!!! thanks!! willl check on mine soon.. Clap
http://mibc.proboards.com/
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote damo46 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec 2014 at 10:31
Just be careful if you are taking the lead of the starter, when you turn the nut make sure you are holding the bolt secure , that bolt that comes out of the starter has an insulator around it on the inside, if the bolt turns when you are loosening the nut it will break the insulator on the inside, I found that out the hard way when I was doing mine and didn't hold it, bolt was badly corroded as well and it sheared off along with breaking the insulator  Unhappy

See below post which has some pics on post no. 9 to give you an idea 

http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?187907-Did-I-just-break-my-starter-motor-Was-adding-dielectric-grease-to-starter-motor&highlight=starter+motor+parts


Road Racing Ireland, Do It Between The Hedges
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fredm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec 2014 at 12:06
Remember to disconnect the battery before you go undoing the starter motor lead, because there is battery voltage on the end of it. Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote blinkey501 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec 2014 at 12:12
Not read all the replys, so sorry if this has been mentioned.
 
On ridersite we uncovered information about the apes that might interest you.
 
Aprilia advise that you disconnect the battery if you are leaving the bike for long periods of time.
 
This will save drain on the battery.
 
The only down side is that you will need to change the clocks from kilometres to miles, and reset the clock.
 
This does not take long if you know what buttons to press on the clocks..
 
Just a thoughtWink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MountainMan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec 2014 at 12:25
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kamm Matt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jun 2016 at 02:56
Originally posted by damo46 damo46 wrote:

Just be careful if you are taking the lead of the starter, when you turn the nut make sure you are holding the bolt secure , that bolt that comes out of the starter has an insulator around it on the inside, if the bolt turns when you are loosening the nut it will break the insulator on the inside, I found that out the hard way when I was doing mine and didn't hold it, bolt was badly corroded as well and it sheared off along with breaking the insulator  Unhappy

See below post which has some pics on post no. 9 to give you an idea 

http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?187907-Did-I-just-break-my-starter-motor-Was-adding-dielectric-grease-to-starter-motor&highlight=starter+motor+parts









and i hv read somewhere to upgrade from 12 to 14 size battery on rsvr gen2 we need to mods the battery holder isnt?
http://mibc.proboards.com/
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Johnboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2017 at 18:16
All interesting stuff guys, the latest design of 220+ CCA batteries certainly have the ability to hold and dispense a lot of energy during starting, especially hooked up to a new 150Amp solenoid.
The missing link to ensure the current can actually be pulled by the starter though, is the OE cables that Aprilia designed many years ago, and designed them around battery tech of the day.
Fast forward many years, and lots of possible corrosion, and heat damage, and there is no way you'll be seeing any way near the right amount of current at the starter motor. Hence, slow cranking, backlash in the sprag, and more damage to the resistive connection in the cables.

The Copperkits cables are designed around 220CCA batteries, so will deliver your expensive battery Amps to the starter, crank faster with more torque, reduce damage to your sprag, and ensure you're reliable.

So, for me it's 3 items, 1: 220+CCA BATTERY 2: Genuine 150 Amp Solenoid 3: 16mm2 copperkits cable upgrade.

Then we can concentrate on have a great time riding 😊👍
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Johnboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2017 at 18:25
This design , Gen1 Shown has Auxiliary Optimate connections, and copper busbar at the battery terminals.
All heat resistant design, and come with High temp silicone grease.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rybes Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2017 at 20:14
Their lookin good now mate. They've come along way since ya done mine. I'm almost tempted to buy another set
ive just got my first vtwin and i think i got the right one
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Johnboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2017 at 20:51
Cheers Rybes!
Yes they've evolved following requests from people using them ( you included! )
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote purehavok Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2017 at 22:05
iv been using the motobatt YTX12 AGM bettery for a while now. Also using the shindengen FH020AA rectifier upgrade. i think it's still got the 500w stator in it too. Johnboy is spot OEM cables. they were boarderline for the OEM battery even back in the day.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IanG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Mar 2017 at 15:47
When are people going to wise up to this crap about 'leave it on an optimate when not in use'? 

It's so not needed if the battery and charging system is good. The amount of people who have cooked their battery grows daily.
 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote badapple Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Mar 2017 at 05:09
I agree to a point Ian they shouldn't be left on all the time however if it's on for bit then turn it off for a while then back on if you are not using it especially over the winter months does that really cook the battery? I know for a fact by not plugging mine in it wouldn't want to know but I do have an alarm which I won't remove.
I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IanG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Mar 2017 at 14:15
I don't have an alarm fitted although I did have a Meta 357t fitted when I got my Sv1000 new

I have never had to have any of my bikes on one of those optmiser gadgets,I do have one though and the only time either bike gets connected to it is when I take the batteries off around November time and they come in and get a top up charge for a couple of hours.

They are then disconnected and receive another couple of hours before they go back on the bikes around march time

During the year I only use my bikes every couple of weeks and they both start as instantly as switching on a light,no 'turning over' just the first piston to firing position starts the engine.

I have de bugged the wiring and fitted John's excellent cable upgrade kit though

If everything is working properly charging and battery wise you should be able to go around 3 weeks without going near the bike and still have it start instantly


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote badapple Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Mar 2017 at 15:25
Maybe I'm paranoid as I had lots of problems with my first ape but I too have got the full monty charging wise now on the newest bike and so far so good.
I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote brierley4life Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar 2017 at 22:50
Johny I have emailed you regarding the cables dude. Please get in touch. I am away with work for the next 2 weeks, so no real rush. But still sooner rather than later please. A box of bits when I get home will  will keep me out of trouble LOL
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