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BATTERY PROBLEMS

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jay g View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jay g Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: BATTERY PROBLEMS
    Posted: 27 Dec 2006 at 17:24
Many Aprilia owners suffer with the dreaded battery problem.We have all read different threads about duff battery's,charging problems,starting problems etc..etc.My battery seems to be crap too.Why dont we get our heads together,to finally bury this bloody problem, once and for-all!..........what is the best battery to get?,what rate should the engine charge the battery?why does it discarge in the first place? you know what i mean.Lets get a list of problems together, and then all agree on a final cure.Lets face it,there is a problem and if we put our heads together,we can cure it.[:D]
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote daveC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec 2006 at 18:26
I'd be interested to hear this also. I ended up going to Hein Gericke and buying one of those battery optimizers for 22. Bike is plugged into it all the time whilst in the garage now. [:(]
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TarmacScratcher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec 2006 at 20:01
Hi ref my post on battery probs, I have just ordered a gel filled 12volt 14amp battery (your standard is a 12volt 12amp wet battery) 14amp gel gives the higher cranking power, also gel ones are supposed to lose less power when standing with alarm on, ive read posts on here of owners leaving bikes for 1 or 2 months with the 14amp upgraded batt and starting first time and they dont leak hence track use so hopefully that sorts it. p.s. batt was 55 from apex leisure online 79 in a normal shop if your interested. all the best Mark B
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dannyboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec 2006 at 20:28
it's not necessarily a problem that is acute to aprilias. any bike that is left for a while will drain the battery. it's just that it's more noticable on a "v twin" where you need a higher cranking voltage to shift those 2x500 cc buckets over fast enough to start, compared with 4x250 cc pistons of a 4 cylinder bike. the cold weather at this time of year doesn't help the situation either. the reason that most bike batteries drain is because of the immobiliser and the alarm, so you have 2 choices; 1, don't activate the alarm when you park your bike up at home. this will pro-long the battery life but will probably end with your bike going for a walk so i wouldn't recommend this choice. 2, buy a battery optimiser or trickle charger and plug it in when ever at home. the standard battery for a rsv is a YTX12BS this has a 12 ampere rating, but you can also fit a YTX14BS this has a higher ampere rating of 14 a gives a higher cranking speed. pab sells both types on this site or you could look on ebay which always turns up a bargin i have just bought a YTX14BS brand new for 26 including carriage. hope this answers some of your questions.[;)]
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote david Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec 2006 at 15:04
The 14 amp battery and the trickle charger seems to be the best route. Dannyboy, can you let me know where you got that great deal from on your 14 amp battery? Cheers Dave
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dannyboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec 2006 at 16:12
i got the battery from ebay. the ebay shop is called ONLINEOFFROAD. just enter this into the search window in the ebay shop site. alternatively you could just do an ebay search for a YTX14BS battery and see what you can find.[;)]
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jay g View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jay g Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec 2006 at 20:57
Looking in the Aprilia maintenance book with my bike.It says that the battery will discharge if un-used for more than twenty days,due to the consumtion of the multifunction computer.It says to disconnect the 30a fuses,to keep a charge.Also it says that if the bike is unused for more than 15 days,to re-charge the battery,to prevent its sulphation.[xx(]It seems that the battery is given a hard time even with-out an alarm or immobilizer.A gel battery sounds good with the higher amps,but i wonder if there is a way of turning off the diagnostic computer by fitting a switch instead of pulling fuses every time.How many of you do pull the fuses?...Also if you do run an alarm and immob.How much power is being sucked out of the battery,with the diagnostic computer draining it too.More than a trickle charger can supplement? i dont know.History of dead battery's down to sulphation,and not being able to hold a charge for long, maybe caused by these things.Again i dont know, maybe someone does[:)]
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dannyboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec 2006 at 22:01
i don't remove the 30 amp fuse when the bike is in the shed unless i'm charging the battery, but only because i was taught to charge a battery only when it is disconnected from the electrical system, when i was an apprentice. the fuses are located under the seat behind the battery there are 2 next to each other, one is a spare and not used the other is for the dash instrument (diagnostic computer). this is not recommended but with the ignition on pull each fuse individually, the dash will go out when you pull one of them. always make sure the ignition is switched off before refitting the fuses.the big down side to doing this is that you will have to reset your dash back to mph and set your rev lights as taking out this fuse is like disconnecting the battery and puts the dash into default mode. if you fitted a switch it would just be something else to go wrong so i wouldn't bother. as for sulphation i wouldn't be too concerned, i bet you don't worry about the state of your car battery if you don,t use your car for 2 or 3 weeks during the summer when you go on holiday i know i don't. hope this helps.[;)]
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lateshift Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec 2006 at 22:05
Not sure about the Aprilia manual, but seriously last xmas my 99 RSV was left outside under a cover for 2 months with the alarm active, i was using a 14ah battery and it started first time within 3 cranks, My 06 has been sat for at least a month recently as i was off work awaiting an operation on my neck, again that started first time with the CAT1 alarm active, in fact i get too lazy to bother to go out and start her, she lives outside under an Oxford cover so is exposed to the sort of temperatures that like to degrade any battery. But believe it or not, starting a bike and leaving it at idle rarely charges a battery anyway, in a lot of cases it can ruin it, and these bikes shouldnt be left to idle for too long as it is. For what its worth in my 99 RSV it wasnt even a top of the range battery either, most people tend to sway towards the heavy duty Yuasa or Varta stuff, i use whatevers cheapest because to me a battery is a battery, its all lead and acid as far as i am concerned [:D][:D] I suppose i am just fortunate that i havent had a problem (only the ZX9R let me down in that department and i gave it the battery of our ZXR400 instead [:D] ) if in doubt then use an Optimiser, but above all else make sure that if its struggling to start you dont get tempted to start winding open the throttle, if it fires and the throttle is open as you are begging it to start up, you are likely to knacker the sprag clutch [;)] Personnally with these bikes, if it doesnt start within 5 seconds of cranking it over, i leave it for a short while as they are so easy to flood too [:)] 06 RSVR
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote danish ep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2007 at 16:55
quote:
Originally posted by TarmacScratcher
Hi ref my post on battery probs, I have just ordered a gel filled 12volt 14amp battery (your standard is a 12volt 12amp wet battery) 14amp gel gives the higher cranking power, also gel ones are supposed to lose less power when standing with alarm on, ive read posts on here of owners leaving bikes for 1 or 2 months with the 14amp upgraded batt and starting first time and they dont leak hence track use so hopefully that sorts it. p.s. batt was 55 from apex leisure online 79 in a normal shop if your interested. all the best Mark B
Another vote for the 12v 14Amp battery. I had battery problems after I bought my bike, and knew in advance of the potential sprag clutch problems associated with turning over the engine with a lees-than-peak performance battery. After the original battery boiled over after being on trickle charge, and dripped onto the swing arm, I replaced it with a cheap as sh*t fill-your-own from On Yer Bike, but had similar staring issues with it. When I took it to Southern Cross for a service last year, they suggested I replace it with a Yuasa 12v 14 amp. Never had any probs since. Way over Yonder in the Minor Key
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jay g Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2007 at 22:08
Do you all agree that a 12 volt, 14 amp gel battery, an optimate charger{or similar},used when bike not in use,is the best set-up to have[?] Not starting the bike with an open throttle {to preserve sprag clutch}and that if it still doesn't start within 5 seconds of trying to crank it,to wait a while as these bikes can flood easily[?] Dont bother to pull 30a fuses,cause if you do all the above, you wont need to anyway[?].....seems to me to be the answer to our battery problems[^][:D]
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jay g Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jan 2007 at 21:41
[:D][:D][:D][:D][:D]
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TarmacScratcher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 2007 at 00:07
A usefull thread thanks guys[:D]
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rluddington Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan 2007 at 09:57
Thanks to Dannyboy and all the others here for the info on dead batteries. Mine has finally failed after 5 years on the optimate charger so I took your advice and found the upgraded 14ah (ytx14bs)version on ebay for 26.99 delivered. Cheers.[:)]
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jay g Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar 2007 at 12:06
Just to let you all know that when replacing the 12 amp battery with a 14 amp,you can also replace the plastic clamp.Aprilia do a taller one to fit the taller 14amp battery[:)] part no.8138597
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LEGS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 2007 at 23:54
Firstly, if you're having any starting concerns over poor starting on RSV's, it's "normally" a duff or at best a low battery, aside from the usual starter solenoid problem which will be a non start! 1. Firstly buy a YTX14BS battery. They're about 30 off ebay delivered. They will fit straight in. Either buy the earlier mille 1998 to 2001 battery holder bracket for a few quid or use some spacers. 2. Buy an Optimate 3 SP. They are about 35 delivered. They are the best bar none as they are a battery conditioner not a cheaper trickle charger like some mentioned. They can be left connected indefinately without any fear of over charging 3. Fill the battery with acid and leave for 30 minutes before putting the cap on to enusre any gasses have escaped. 4. Connect your new battery to the optimate before you put it on the bike. Leave it for 24 hours. This will ensure the battery is at 100% capacity. If you don't do this and connect the battery straight to the bike and use it you'll only get about 80% efficiency. Not good 5. Fit the battery to the bike, grease the battery terminals lightly and connect the plug in optimate adaptor and position so that you can easliy reconnect the optimate to the bike. 6. Reconnect the optimate each time you leave the bike making sure the optimate is switched off at the wall before reconnecting to the plug in adaptor. This will restart the optimate's charging and checking cycle. 7. Starting the RSV from cold, open the cold start lever fully and don't touch the throttle. It should go first click. After 10 seconds or so, close the cold start lever to around half until the temperature registers on the dash. you should then be able to close the cold start lever fully. no more battery or starting issues. hope this helps 02 RSVR
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dannyboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2007 at 19:45
i'm sure that is what everyone has said on the previous page.[;)]
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jay g Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Mar 2007 at 12:54
Up-date on the battery clamp thing.[^]Been dicussing it with a few people{thanks lads},and have come to the conclusion that...all Mille's from 2000 have the smaller clamp to fit the 12amp battery all are fitted with.Thats why when you{we}up-grade to the taller 14amp battery ,the clamp is too small....The early standard mille's had the 14 amp taller battery as standard and so the taller battery clamp. It seems that if you are upgrading to the taller 14 amp battery,you need to get a battery clamp off of the early standard mille. I am going to do this ,i have the battery{off Pab},and are now going to hunt down the taller battery clamp. I will give an up-date when i sort one out[:D]{phew!}
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jay g Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr 2007 at 14:43
Had a few problems getting the new 14amp gel to charge.All o.k now{i hope}and have fitted it onto bike and she burst's into life instantly now[:D] Managed to get a taller battery clamp and it fits well,as it should. So if you want one, here is the correct part number...8138597 Thanks to everyone,i think we have sorted this battery thing out now[^][:D][:D][:D]
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote willitorwontit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Aug 2007 at 18:21
I went with the YTX 14 gel battery from sprint, got it from ebay saved a fortune over Infinity. My advice is to get one of the optimate type chargers and you will find you wont have a problem.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Milleblack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Feb 2008 at 16:54
I second the optimate for sure Wink.. done the trick for mine Clap
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote YorkyMart Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jun 2008 at 22:37
I routinely keep batteries on optimates and have had nothing but good results, we have a 10 year old honda quad here that we start up two or 3 times a year and it starts first time every time on a 7 year old Yuasa battery that  is kept"optimised"
 
My new mille has an alarm ( insurance company insisted) and I have kept it on an optimate since buying it.After 3 weeks working away it started first press of the button
 
My last bike was a daytona 955i which would behave very strangely if there was not  the correct voltage at start up , the firmware in the electronics would not boot properly and the speedo would  read Zero.
 
I cured this with perhaps the best battery money can buy a Hawker Odyssey from Knight Battery Sales in warrington. These have incredible cranking power and are probably the only battery that can be brought back from deep discharge and still give 100% performance.  coupled with an optimate I had a "belt and braces solution " I dont know if if they do Odysseys for Milles, but if they do one will be on my shopping list at some time
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rsvmillepete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Aug 2008 at 19:18
AAAAAAARGH. Well dischuffed. Having just returned from out of country attempted to start my 03 mille r and guess what, lots of weeee noise and quite frankly not much else.  Bike was on an optimate for the entirety of time away and even went as far as removing the 30amp fuses. The optimate indicated good and green, but still no magical v twin rumble.  Have got the dreaded datatool 3 fitted, load of wank, and have noticed that no matter what I attempt it will not respond, arm/disarm.  What it does do it squeal like a stuffed pig after a few attempted starts and then resets itself.  Batt now indicating charge again on optimate.  Is my starter shagged, is my battery shagged and what are the indications of a sprag failure???  PLEASE HELP!!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Spoonz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Aug 2008 at 00:45
Indications of sprag issues are a spinning starter motor but not turning over the engine and or metalic plink noise often when you take your finger off the starter.
 
The sprag can stick though as it's a centrifugal clutch especially if your batt is weak and not giveing it a decent spin.
Make sure the batt is genuinely at full strength or jump from a car or something to make sure you have full voltage.
 
The implications of a duff sprag is a dent in your wallet really. it's not major surgery but the parts are not cheap and it's difficult to get the flywheel off to gain access.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rsvmillepete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Aug 2008 at 08:25
Cheers Spoonz,
reckon the whirring noise upon starter press is the fuel pump priming, but no ignition or starter motor turn after the fact.  Am almost semi convinced I have an alarm problem that is negating ignition, based upon the fact that the soddin thing will not arm/disarm.  Have pulled alarm in-line fuse but am now concerned that alarm will have set ignition to off and I will have to re-establish alarm to rectify fault.  Got any datatool 3 experience out there? Anyone else suffered the same symptoms? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sarge2771 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan 2012 at 01:07
datatool 3 are sh-t, had loadsa problems with mine over revving due to alarm.
i find resetting it does the job
ignition turned on, press button to activate alarm 3 times . turn ignition off
turn ignition back on press start button ,this should start now but will have a beep as engines running .
press activate alarm button once more while engines running . job done
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote camngetit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan 2012 at 17:50
Main thing to check on batteries is cranking amps .did some checking on this when I needed a new one .some 14ah are the same cranking amps as the 12ah . I ended up with a 12ah battery but it's 220 cranking amps .used to have probe starting even on a optimate it's used every day .since new battery and uprated solenoid it doesn't go on the optimate   Stood 2 weeks over Xmas and started no probs
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Whoooooooo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan 2012 at 23:31
Pete,

got a DT3 on my Gen2 & have had a good nosey at the associated info...

From what you say & the response you're getting from your bike, it sounds like you may have "spiked" you're alarm. Once "spiked" the alarm will flatly refuse to play ball & there's no quick way round it. There is a specific optimiser for the DT3 alarm, presumably to avoid this issue. If charging the battery without removal from the bike, you need to disarm the system, turn on the ignition, put the alarm in service mode, then remove the alarm fuse to isolate the alarm. This prevents the alarm being spiked by the battery charger, but obviously not practical for long term use... Thumbs Down

Once spiked, the solution is to remove the fuse, disconnecting main power from the alarm, remove the top cover of the alarm & locate the internal battery. Disconnect the battery connector from the board... wait 6 hours or so... reconnect internal battery, reassemble, fit fuse... cross fingers... Wink

Pics & directions are available online at Datatools' website...

Obviously I can't guarantee this'll solve the problem, but it's something to look into...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote v60rsvr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Feb 2012 at 19:58
a ytx14bs is 12 amp , a ytx12bs is 10 ampWink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote v60rsvr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Feb 2012 at 20:08
 cheers jay g gonna get that clamp u mention and wack a ytx14bs in 12 amp dont ya know!
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