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03R Track Project

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    Posted: 29 Jun 2020 at 12:13
Bit of background had my 03r for a couple of years now, I don't ride it much anymore since getting a gen 1 factory Tuono. I love the riding position of the Tuono on the road but couldn’t bring myself to sell the Mille as id always wanted one.



I've never done any track days and always fancied it, so I just bit the bullet and booked a novice place at the Aprilia Day at Donnington park in July. My thinking is id probably rather ride with clip ons in the rsv position on the track than the Tuono position. Never used to mind the rsv when going quick, it was always getting stuck in traffic or around town I used to find the position uncomfortable.

So I thought instead leaving the 03r sat there id convert it to a track bike, don’t fancy binning a mint bike so I'm replacing the fairing with some fibreglass track fairings I picked up on eBay, I've also got some cheap carbon frame and swing arm covers that should hopefully cover me along with the crash bungs. 

I've taken all the original fairings off, wrapped them in bubble wrap and stored them away. Trial fitted the track fairings and they all seem good, now gone off to be painted all black. 




I've fitted a replacement undertray as I didn’t want to cut mine where the number plate brackets are, I managed to buy an already cut one cheap on eBay.

Bike has what seems to be the standard oil leak from the rocker cover seals so these were replaced during the week, that appears to have solved the leaks. 



Already have an open airbox, modded collector, FR200 chip, power commander 3, John Walker cables and upgraded starter solenoid fitted. I’ve got a set of AP rear sets to fit along with a Dynojet quick shifter, has anyone fitted one of these themselves before? If so is there something to activate via usb? I cant seem to find any option to activate when I plug in via usb. 

So the list of jobs looks like a full service including the dog done, front brakes are new but just need bleeding, fit the AP rear sets and relocate rear brake reservoir etc. fit quick shifter, fit the fairing once its returned from the painters. All hopefully in time for the Aprilia day at Donnington in a few weeks!
 
Ill keep the updates coming…….

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote simonb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jun 2020 at 14:33
They make great track bikes,just changing mine from Mille to Tuono due to knackered wrist so will see how that works out next week,first day at Cadwell since changing,at least i have kept everything to swap back if needed.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wigginsjp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jun 2020 at 14:45
Brilliant stuff! 

Keep being tempted by the Aprilia day. Not looked at what spaces are left though or even recall the date now! 

You need to ensure the quick shifter is turned on which should appear when you have the disc in your PC or laptop. You can adjust the kill times etc. I assume running road shift ? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wigginsjp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jun 2020 at 14:57
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote longer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jun 2020 at 14:58
23rd July it is, sold out a few weeks back though!

Does the bike need to be running to activate the QS? Running road shift yeah. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote longer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jun 2020 at 16:34
Originally posted by wigginsjp wigginsjp wrote:

https://dynojet.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360003934014-How-To-Configure-Quick-Shifter-in-Power-Commander-V

That’s for a pcv5 bit the pathway should be the same 

Ended up speaking to Dynojet UK as all the software on their website in for the PCV5 and doesnt work with mine. Helpful chap there emailed it to me, enables it within seconds. I've not adjusted any kill times yet but have the functionality now at least!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote longer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jun 2020 at 16:38
Looks smart that Simon, is it an easy swap with the throttle cables and brake lines? Are they long enough to go from Rsv to Tuono bars?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IanG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jun 2020 at 17:15
Good luck with the new setup,I couldn't get used to the T riding posn,I just don't like the vague feeling after getting used to the front heavy Mille for track use.
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Looking forward to the next track day
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote badapple Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jun 2020 at 17:26
Top work ladsThumbs Up
I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote longer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2020 at 08:43
Ap rear sets fitted yesterday, rear brake actually works now Stern Smile!!! They're a thing of beauty as well.



I've noticed that after having the tank lifted, that its swollen quite significantly. Even if i undo the rear bracket under the seat i cant move it far enough back to get it back down. Does anyone know how long it would take to shrink back to a normal size if i was to drain it and leave the cap open? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote badapple Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2020 at 08:56
A bloody long time mate, I've had to dry one in the house over winter before when it was really bad.
I started out with nothing and I've still got most of it left
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sparky46 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2020 at 09:04
Originally posted by badapple badapple wrote:

A bloody long time mate, I've had to dry one in the house over winter before when it was really bad.
Same for me with the Tuono. Took it off for a good 5 months and stuck it in the spare bedroom(to the wife's delight) with a few bags of silica gel inside.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote longer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2020 at 09:24
Bugger, only got 3 weeks until the track day at Donington
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wigginsjp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2020 at 09:28
Put the front on first so the rear is totally off not bolt through so you can see how far out it is 

Then you can mark and elongate the rear holes on the bracket where the tank long bolt goes through and even the four mounting bracket holes if time is desperate 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote legend88 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2020 at 11:32
Originally posted by wigginsjp wigginsjp wrote:

Put the front on first so the rear is totally off not bolt through so you can see how far out it is 

Then you can mark and elongate the rear holes on the bracket where the tank long bolt goes through and even the four mounting bracket holes if time is desperate 

Then of course the back of the tank hits the battery box and you're stuffed!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IanG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2020 at 12:01
LOL


I almost said that but decided against  Wink

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Looking forward to the next track day
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wigginsjp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2020 at 12:28
Originally posted by legend88 legend88 wrote:

Originally posted by wigginsjp wigginsjp wrote:

Put the front on first so the rear is totally off not bolt through so you can see how far out it is 

Then you can mark and elongate the rear holes on the bracket where the tank long bolt goes through and even the four mounting bracket holes if time is desperate 

Then of course the back of the tank hits the battery box and you're stuffed!

Just how swollen do these Gen1 tanks get then? On mine, not that it swelled there was oceans of space 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IanG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2020 at 12:47
Mine had no visible signs of swelling other than having to lever against the front to pivot it past the yoke,but it's hard up against the battery box regardless of any cross bolt or slotted cross member mountings.

I had my tank off for a season in a warm airing cupboard and then gave it several sessions with a hot air gun inside and out and tbh it didn't make that much difference to the overall length when I refitted it.

Lamp   Another thing to consider is I'm using an Evo air box mod so the tank is actually sealed around the engine and not able to move fore and aft anyway Embarrassed



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wigginsjp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2020 at 12:51
Ian you may know this then so I will use my normal dreadful descriptions 

The bracket by memory used two M5? Bolts to have the tank to main bracket at the rear. Replacing them with two M whatever size button Allen key bolts would free space up? The traditional bolts used to rub on the tank preventing rearward movement. That a go or not? 

Or this chaps gonna have to drain it and dump it all n an oven at this rate 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Spoonz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2020 at 13:01
My tank is the same as Ian’s even after a year with no fuel in it. You can’t move the tank back due to the battery box. I’ve found it easier to fit the front bolts first and lever the Rear bracket to line up the bracket bolts. 

It’s far from ideal but it reduces the chances of damaging the tank paint at the front. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IanG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2020 at 13:09
Originally posted by wigginsjp wigginsjp wrote:

Ian you may know this then so I will use my normal dreadful descriptions 

The bracket by memory used two M5? Bolts to have the tank to main bracket at the rear. Replacing them with two M whatever size button Allen key bolts would free space up? The traditional bolts used to rub on the tank preventing rearward movement. That a go or not? 

Or this chaps gonna have to drain it and dump it all n an oven at this rate 


That rings a bell actually,I think I may already have button heads in there but if so I didn't swap them

I'll have a look next time I unearth the bike as the seat is off and the battery already thrown

I think I did give some thought to thinning the tank locally as it seemed quite solid in the end section but decided to just leave it as it was in the end
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wigginsjp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2020 at 13:50
Originally posted by Spoonz Spoonz wrote:

My tank is the same as Ian’s even after a year with no fuel in it. You can’t move the tank back due to the battery box. I’ve found it easier to fit the front bolts first and lever the Rear bracket to line up the bracket bolts. 

It’s far from ideal but it reduces the chances of damaging the tank paint at the front. 

That’s the way i would use on Gen2 but sounds like Gen1 has less clearance if you can hit battery box. 
If the bolt holes are only 1mm larger or the tank main bolt enlarged slightly I would of had movement along with what I described to Ian on mine with button Allen key bolts, at least would of given more room and cleared the battery box no?  Not owned a Gen1 for sometime to recall this accurately so I could be taking waffle 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote legend88 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2020 at 13:51
Originally posted by IanG IanG wrote:

Lamp   Another thing to consider is I'm using an Evo air box mod so the tank is actually sealed around the engine and not able to move fore and aft anyway Embarrassed


Me too although as it happens while prepping for this year, I too thought about this possibility so I removed the lid and seal of my EVO (Leaving only the base of the airbox in place) and it made absolutely no difference to the fit of the tank. The seal is well compressed in that area (So makes the seal as intended) but it clearly wasn't contributing to the tank fit problem.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote blacklines Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2020 at 14:09
Originally posted by wigginsjp wigginsjp wrote:

Just how swollen do these Gen1 tanks get then? On mine, not that it swelled there was oceans of space 

I'd be curious to see a picture. Worst mine has ever gotten is just rubbing the top yoke slightly. Not even a bother to get the bolts back in. Mostly using fuel from Morissons too, nothing special.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 426hemi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2020 at 14:53
My gen1 won’t clear the top yoke unless I remove the four rear bolts, bolt the front in place then lever the tank forward and bolt the rear.
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